View Full Version : Car Related Tips Thread
Thought it would be cool to share random tips we come across when working on our cars. Tips should be quick, one ore two sentences long. I'll start it off.
When installing turbos, clock the turbine housing/chra clamp to an accessible position, that way if you have to rebuild you don't have to remove the exhaust side.
Leave oil containers on a home radiator for a couple hours to warm up when filling up an engine for the first time after major work. I get oil pressure within a few cranks.
dpartinvr4
03-29-2011, 02:44 PM
don't touch things and they usually won't break :)
CoreyB
03-29-2011, 02:50 PM
Whenever possible use a 6 point socket rather than a 12 point to avoid stripping.
Always use leverage over brute strength when loosening bolts, you can use two wrenches locked end to end, I do this often.
Never use RTV unless its necessary.
Never fully tighten just one bolt on anything, tighten them all up evenly in increments.
dpartinvr4
03-29-2011, 03:22 PM
...........what's your beef with RTV?
CoreyB
03-29-2011, 03:38 PM
Dont use it where you dont need it. Using it in combination with gaskets is a leak waiting to happen.
Steve '92ES
03-29-2011, 04:37 PM
Learn how to read your engine codes BEFORE your car breaks. Get your paper clip, meter, test light, or logger and make sure it works and you know how to do it now so you won't be battling two problems later.
dpartinvr4
03-29-2011, 04:49 PM
i've been using it in combination with gaskets for years,....you have to use it properly, a thin layer, not a gob......
Mike-92RT
03-29-2011, 04:53 PM
dont rush, and be patient when working on these engines.
CoreyB
03-29-2011, 04:59 PM
i've been using it in combination with gaskets for years,....you have to use it properly, a thin layer, not a gob......
Why? Was it there on the factory gasket? Did it leak before? I stand by my advice but feel free to ignore it. Anyways...
ALWAYS use a jackstand or blocking to keep the car from coming down on you, never trust a jack.
Mike-92RT
03-29-2011, 05:07 PM
When you use RTV gasket, make sure you scrape off any debris with a razor blade, and then spray it with brake clean to clean off any oil and left over dirt. Use a rag with varsol in other situations when you can't spray brake clean.
If you wanna seal up your plenums and TB, apply a thin layer, finger tighten the bolts, wait 10 minutes, then fully tighten.
If you wanna seal up your valve cover, or oil pan, apply a medium sized layer, tighten the bolts just enough so the RTV just starts to squeeze out. Wait 30min to an hour, then torque the bolts down. Then let it fully dry for 3 hours.
Make sure you use the right type of RTV for the job your doing.
Follow those steps and it shouldn't fail you :)
x2percentmilk
03-29-2011, 10:26 PM
Dont rush dont rush dont rush.
I forgot to put my oil cap back on then drove 50 miles. In the same week I forgot to re-bolt my front brake hose bracket to the strut, it fell into the axle and severed the line in half while I was on the highway.
My engines life and then my life were risked because of ONE STUPID THING because I was rushing.
Rocket
03-29-2011, 10:48 PM
When ever possible use the right tool for the right job. Short cutting will lead to problems, breakage, anger management issues later. If you don't have the right tool, beg, borrow, or buy it :) It makes life sooo much better.
CoopKill
03-29-2011, 10:50 PM
Don't listen to steve68, your ringlands are not broke!
Go OEM on your oil and water pump, tension pulley, and idler pulley.
Get a service manual and read it!
Polygon
03-29-2011, 11:04 PM
Why? Was it there on the factory gasket? Did it leak before? I stand by my advice but feel free to ignore it. Anyways....
Yes, there was. I don't know why everyone seems to think that you're not supposed to use RTV on the valve cover gasket? You're supposed to use a small dab at each corner of the cam humps. It's right in the service manual and it's there with the factory gasket.
CoreyB
03-30-2011, 12:29 AM
Exactly correct. As I stated dont use it were you dont need to. I always use it in the corners of the VC gasket as called for, but would you use it were its not needed? Some think they need I it when they dont, I have seen people use it on head gaskets even.
Polygon
03-30-2011, 12:55 AM
Exactly correct. As I stated dont use it were you dont need to. I always use it in the corners of the VC gasket as called for, but would you use it were its not needed? Some think they need I it when they dont, I have seen people use it on head gaskets even.
Oh, it seemed like you were saying to not use RTV, PERIOD, when changing the valve cover gasket.
oohnoo
03-30-2011, 09:50 AM
Soak bolts with PB Blaster to loosen them up AND WAIT at least a day if possible before loosening them up. Makes life so much easier.
Use Neversieze on all turbo/exhaust bolts when reinstalling.
Never Ever over tighten bolts.
Try and only do one mod at a time to lessen the chance of trouble-shooting when something goes wrong.
Soak bolts with PB Blaster to loosen them up AND WAIT at least a day if possible before loosening them up. Makes life so much easier.
Use Neversieze on all turbo/exhaust bolts when reinstalling.
Never Ever over tighten bolts.
Try and only do one mod at a time to lessen the chance of trouble-shooting when something goes wrong.
This^. This^. This^.
CoreyB
03-30-2011, 10:12 AM
Never mod and engine untill you are certain its healthy.
Well thought out mods > Most expensive mods.
Roybatty
04-01-2011, 11:37 AM
Don't listen to steve68, your ringlands are not broke!
Go OEM on your oil and water pump, tension pulley, and idler pulley.
Get a service manual and read it!
3SX Performance - Service Manuals Backups 3000GT / Stealth*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts (http://www.3sx.com/faq/manuals/)
All great tips in here. I will add, patience and fortitude. If you find yourself needing to "go gorilla," you need to step back, and reread this thread =)
Always do a pull test when using crimp on terminals, don't assume it's solid.
Bluejediz
04-01-2011, 11:44 PM
Never be afraid to ask a question, no matter how stupid it may seem.
gltasn
04-02-2011, 12:45 PM
this is a great thread!
coming from someone with 2 transfer case lockups i'll have to chime in and say to check your tc fluid a few times per year. they can leak in a way that the theres no puddle.
i only work on my car when i feel like it and at first sign of fatigue i stop working. i find stepping back helps the ideas flow if your stumped.
save all your old parts, for the broke ass guys.
if i have a choice, i go oem.
you guys got the rest,take your time, follow instructions(read them over and over till it pops),use the right tool,make leverage your bitch,pb blaster is your friend...
Roybatty
07-29-2011, 10:32 PM
When PB blaster fails you...you are stuck here>>>
The Art of Extraction (http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm) In a recent adventure with rear motor mount bolt breaking, I could only get the helicoil to work.
KPZVR4
07-29-2011, 11:23 PM
Don't buy the cheap substitute, get the "good" one, or the one you really want. It will end up costing you more in the end if you try to cut corners.
I am guilty of buying parts, realizing they don't meet my expectations, then end up buying a replacement that was what I originally was going to get. Time x2 + Money x1.5 = me kicking my own ass for cutting corners.
mb3000
07-30-2011, 01:10 AM
Give yourself time to do what you need to. Far too many times I find myself cutting corners because I need my car running by x:xx on x/x.
Boomer3000
07-30-2011, 05:24 AM
Learn to say Fuck it and walk away when things aren't going your way.
'
don't overestimate your own abilities. making your own parts--especially if you have ZERO experience at it--is nowhere near as simple as you'd think. "making" your own headers is not something that a rookie is going to excel at. unless you have the desire to build a manufacturing skillset for the express purpose of marketing a product; you're much better off just buying from an existing vendor.
loc-tite can be you friend--if you use it properly.
buying a complete brake-line replacement system > retro-fitting the existing OEM one. having bought 3sx's line kit; i wish i'd just ripped out everything. i never did manage to get the rears apart--too much danger of destroying the fittings, as they were all rusted shut.
if you end up with tail-lights that perpetually seem to fill with water, you can drill a small drain hole in the corner; rather than buying a new set.
Hans@GZP
07-30-2011, 10:21 AM
When needing to do an AC Compressor, Alternator, front motor mount, or anything that requires removing the radiator, you can unplug the radiator fans and lift the radiator straight up and lay it on top of the engine.... without ever having to drain it.
UTRacerX9
07-30-2011, 10:27 AM
No mechanic or shop is going to care about your car as much as you do. They will cut corners if possible, and may rush to get it out the door. Always do all work yourself if possible, you'll end up knowing more about your car, and know that the job was done right.
Before starting a job, gather as many of the tools together that you will need. It will save you a lot of time if you aren't always running back to the toolbox/garage for another tool.
Research. 99.9% of all mods you can do have been done by someone before. Research and make sure you know any potential pitfalls before starting the job.
Jimvr4
07-30-2011, 11:35 AM
Get an impact driver. Best tool ever for stuck bolts and screws.
shmoo
07-31-2011, 02:58 AM
dont rush, and be patient when working on these engines.
x3 plus cigarette break.
_isiah
Street_Chally73
08-01-2011, 04:11 AM
Patience & liberal Aerokroil (amazing stuff if you've never used it) soakings are your friends when dealing with seized/rusted fasteners; after all, it's easier to take some time now getting those stuck bolts out as opposed to having to carefully drill through the center of the stripped bolt/screw head & running an extractor through it later.
For bolt/nut assemblies that are determined lost causes even before attempting to remove them, a small pneumatic cut-off wheel with steady hands can make quick work of getting through that stubborn bolt/nut...Just carefully cut an "X" through the head & use a pry tool or chisel to finish it off.
+1 for keeping old parts around as you may never know when you may need one or even parts off one to repair your existing setup (just don't get carried away & slip into "Hoarders" status).
J. Fast
08-01-2011, 09:45 AM
Road test all your work and all work completed by others. After a short drive, bringing the vehicle up to temp, reinspect all repairs and service completed.
Chris@Rvengeperformance
08-01-2011, 11:01 AM
Buy a spare car. Solves countless problems.
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
green-lantern
08-01-2011, 02:35 PM
Buy a spare car. Solves countless problems.
1st thing everybody should do when modding one of these cars. lol
UTRacerX9
08-01-2011, 02:37 PM
LOL meant as a joke of course, but he's got a point. If you have a second car to fall back on for DD, then rushing to fix your 3/S is never a problem, and should prevent people from cutting corners in the interest of time/money.
92pearltt
08-01-2011, 04:44 PM
If you can't get something loose with just heat use heat and then melt candle wax into it and it will usually come out. I use it on bolts and just used it on a hub assembly the other day.
J. Fast
08-01-2011, 09:58 PM
If you can't get something loose with just heat use heat and then melt candle wax into it and it will usually come out. I use it on bolts and just used it on a hub assembly the other day.
Never heard of using wax before. Do you sweat it in similar to tinning? How do you apply it?
92pearltt
08-01-2011, 10:14 PM
Say you wanted to remove a stud from your turbo. You heat up the area around the stud, till its hot enough to melt the wax quickly. Melt the candle on the stud and it runs down the threads. Let it cool and it works as a VERY good lubricant and usually comes right out.
CoreyB
08-02-2011, 08:47 AM
First I heard of that!!!
Chris@Rvengeperformance
08-02-2011, 10:53 AM
LOL meant as a joke of course, but he's got a point. If you have a second car to fall back on for DD, then rushing to fix your 3/S is never a problem, and should prevent people from cutting corners in the interest of time/money.
right on everything except I wasn't joking.
The other great thing is if you turn out needed a part you don't have to rush to ship the thing.
green-lantern
08-02-2011, 11:57 AM
I was dead serious about it also :lol:
Every time some kid wanted to TT his NA DD I’d always tell them to buy some beater to get around in because if it’s your only mode of transportation you’re going to be walking soon.
Say you wanted to remove a stud from your turbo. You heat up the area around the stud, till its hot enough to melt the wax quickly. Melt the candle on the stud and it runs down the threads. Let it cool and it works as a VERY good lubricant and usually comes right out.
I would melt a pan full of Paraffin and soak my dirtbike chain in it years ago. Before O ring chains anyway.
mb3000
08-02-2011, 12:19 PM
I was dead serious about it also :lol:
I would melt a pan full of Paraffin and soak my dirtbike chain in it years ago. Before O ring chains anyway.
I used Kerosene :p
green-lantern
08-02-2011, 12:23 PM
I used Kerosene :p
Too thin for me. I used gear oil also but that can make a pretty good mess.
green-lantern
08-02-2011, 04:37 PM
I was dead serious about it also :lol:
Every time some kid wanted to TT his NA DD I’d always tell them to buy some beater to get around in because if it’s your only mode of transportation you’re going to be walking soon.
See my post :lo5l:
http://www.3sgto.org/f17/restoration-my-94-vr4-5824.html#post109897
93STLTH
08-02-2011, 09:56 PM
You can use a 10 inch length of vacuum hose to guide your spark plugs down the tube and even start them threading and then use the socket to tighten them. You won't have to worry about trying to keep them in the socket or accidentally pushing the gasket into the cylinder.
Roybatty
08-03-2011, 11:51 AM
You can use a 10 inch length of vacuum hose to guide your spark plugs down the tube and even start them threading and then use the socket to tighten them. You won't have to worry about trying to keep them in the socket or accidentally pushing the gasket into the cylinder.
This works well...Also YOU have excellent posts particularly in the NWS section.
I don't know how you can own/work on one of these cars and NOT have access to another "working" DD.
Some times no matter how much PB blaster/wax/parrafin/whatnot you use...you may run into the friggin crustulated/rust recalcitrant bolt that needs to be drilled out...with all the pain involved with it. These are old cars!
shmoo
08-03-2011, 06:09 PM
If you can't get something loose with just heat use heat and then melt candle wax into it and it will usually come out. I use it on bolts and just used it on a hub assembly the other day.
tell us more about this.. you just melt wax into the threads?
_isiah
KPZVR4
08-03-2011, 08:10 PM
When you have nut/bolt you can't get out, make sure you are tightening it too. This will help to work the lube into it.
FluffyCow
08-04-2011, 09:25 AM
Always be willing.to read up on these cars. I'm kicking myself for.having my mechanic pull/replace rear turbo with ne getting it rebuilt after I just pulled my front. Things aren't nearly as hard as they seem.
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