Replacement/bolt on turbo?

[Hard AttacK]

I'm pretty sure my rear 9b turbo is on it's way out.

I am looking at this list http://stealth316.com/0-frames.htm

Will any of those ones listed just bolt right up without major modification?

I'm thinking about hitting up a local DSM part out for a used 13g to hold me off for a while.

Thanks! :)

[Hard AttacK]

Well I guess I answered my own question with that link! DOH

[DocWalt]

What's making you think it's going out, smoke, or noises? I just wanna make sure you're not doing the work for no reason, lol

[Atrosity]

DR500s should be a direct replacement with out having to have too many supporting mods and have a lil extra power.

[Hard AttacK]

A while ago I pulled off my intake pipes and the rear one had oil in it. My rear turbo had some shaft play. I didn't think it was too bad, but I think it got worse. :( It smokes on decel and if I get on it hard it will puff smoke between shifts. It might be in my head, but I swear it sounds/feels different.

[DocWalt]

The pre-turbo intake pipes, or the hot side piping? The rear turbo sucks oil from the PCV system, which makes it hard to diagnose with no catch-can. If it's smoking on decel, and between shifts, it might be a turbo. Pull the downpipe if you get a chance, and free rev it to see which bank smoke comes out of.

[Hard AttacK]

It was in the pre-turbo pipes, but I popped them off again a few times after I wiped them out and there is nothing. It was in my throttle body too. I pulled my PCV off and it was pretty gummy so I sprayed some ob blaster and wd40 in there to clean it. That helped the pcv a lot, but it still smokes on decel. :( ass

[DocWalt]

suckass. :(

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

smoking on decel was bad turbos a few years ago for me.

I'd get a set of 13Ts.

[Hard AttacK]

I plan on getting something that will hold me off until I gather everything for a single setup. :)

I just want to find some CHEAP 9bs or something off of a DSM on craigslist. (13g)

[blindmist]

I plan on getting something that will hold me off until I gather everything for a single setup. :)

I just want to find some CHEAP 9bs or something off of a DSM on craigslist. (13g)


Honestly, if you can find your hands on some 13t's with the machined housings, they are some of the best bang for your buck. Work great with 360cc injectors and are a solid turbo. And if one goes bad, its not too difficult to modify the WRX compressor housing and throw it on the old turbine housing from the bad one.

I found a 13t WRX for $80 after the front 13t got starved of oil. You can't beat that.

[Hard AttacK]

Honestly, if you can find your hands on some 13t's with the machined housings, they are some of the best bang for your buck. Work great with 360cc injectors and are a solid turbo. And if one goes bad, its not too difficult to modify the WRX compressor housing and throw it on the old turbine housing from the bad one.

I found a 13t WRX for $80 after the front 13t got starved of oil. You can't beat that.

What modifications do they require to bolt on?

[thor'svr4]

they are 'bolt on' but the larger wrx housing can be a little of a pain in the ass, mostly for the front turbo though. for the rear turbo you have to bend one of the hard oil lines. this isnt a big deal but you def want to be carful not to kink the line.

if your ONLY replacing the rear turbo then grab a 13T and you prob wont need much if anything for supporting mods since you will still be running one 9b and one 13T. you could prob get away with just bolting on a rear 13T, walbro 255lph fuel pump ($100), and a fuel pump hotwire ($30ish). i would also grab a dataloger ($100) and just use it to make sure your not getting knock / running out of fuel, ect.

if you bolt on JUST a rear 13G i wouldnt bother doing anything more than a fuel pump and hotwire.
13T's (if you buy both) are cheep. but require supporting mods which cost a bit of money.
13G's are more expensive but dont really require much for supporting mods, but im sure there are others with much much much more info on a good twin 13G setup.

in your case i think bolting on a used dsm 13g is the cheepest route.

[Hard AttacK]

So if I do get a 13g I will still need a fuel pump and hot wire? Even running like 1o-14 lbs? I have a datalogger FTR. :P

Thank you!

[skater334]

Yes a set of DR500's would be a great bolt on replacement w/ no mods needed to fit them. And they spool prolly just as fast as those 13G's. Just FYI.

[SpdDmnVR4]

Im running 16T's on stock FPR, Stock Fuel pump, and Stock injectors at 10 psi. I could bust out 11 but I got some knock in first gear and took it back down. My IDC's were 108 in first and 102 in 2nd and 99 in thrid when I was running 11 PSI. Running 10 psi, they are 102, 99 and 97 respectively, IIRC anyway.

16Ts will out flow 9B's, 13G's, 13T's and DR500's so You can run all of them on stock fuel, but you must be selective on how much boost you push with them.

[thor'svr4]

Im running 16T's on stock FPR, Stock Fuel pump, and Stock injectors at 10 psi. I could bust out 11 but I got some knock in first gear and took it back down. My IDC's were 108 in first and 102 in 2nd and 99 in thrid when I was running 11 PSI. Running 10 psi, they are 102, 99 and 97 respectively, IIRC anyway.

16Ts will out flow 9B's, 13G's, 13T's and DR500's so You can run all of them on stock fuel, but you must be selective on how much boost you push with them.

exactly. the more boost the more supporting mods needed. if he plans on keeping boost low he wont need much (if any) supporting mods. Heart Attack, what are you running for boost right now? do you have a boost controler? what would you like to run for boost? upgraded intercoolers / fmic?

personaly im not really sure why people buy a larger turbo and then run a low amount of boost.... it kinda seams counter productive...
as far as i know even 9b's can max out the stock fuel system by 15ish psi. so i would think no matter what turbo you buy, a stock fuel system is going to be the limiting factor to how much boost/hp you can make. bigger turbo needs more fuel for more boost.

you could always install the turbo and keep boost low till you add supporting mods, but wheres the fun in runing low boost on a stock fuel system.

just my $.02

edit:
if you can afford them, buy a set of DR turbos.

[blindmist]

I ran my 13t's on a stock setup at 14psi for a long time.

[Hard AttacK]

exactly. the more boost the more supporting mods needed. if he plans on keeping boost low he wont need much (if any) supporting mods. Heart Attack, what are you running for boost right now? do you have a boost controler? what would you like to run for boost? upgraded intercoolers / fmic?

personaly im not really sure why people buy a larger turbo and then run a low amount of boost.... it kinda seams counter productive...
as far as i know even 9b's can max out the stock fuel system by 15ish psi. so i would think no matter what turbo you buy, a stock fuel system is going to be the limiting factor to how much boost/hp you can make. bigger turbo needs more fuel for more boost.

you could always install the turbo and keep boost low till you add supporting mods, but wheres the fun in runing low boost on a stock fuel system.

just my $.02

edit:
if you can afford them, buy a set of DR turbos.

I'm running like 12 pounds on stock 9bs, all stock fuel system.

I have a MBC and a crappy boost gauge. I don't want to pay much, I just want a cheap/used/rebuilt bolt on replacement. I plan on going to a single turbo setup, rather than buying some upgraded turbos.

[MightyMouse]

Get the largest turbos you'll ever think you'll get.
Or
Get the cheapest turbo that you can get until you can afford the largest you ever think you'll get.

16G's can be run with stock fuel as long as you keep the boost at around 7PSI or so..
No one really goes that route because spoolup will be suckass so you'll have this badass kit and putting out no power..

If you plan to use the car as a daily driver forever go with 13T or DR500s at the LARGEST and stick to 12PSI or so. Then later on if you want good reliable power change out the front manifold, downpipe, exhaust, and put some pre-filter hardpipes in there and a K&N. If you want some more reliable power wait until you need to replace the head gasket or something and have your heads ported and polished. 13Ts or 550's are running pretty efficiently at 12PSI and shouldn't need too much in the way of cooling the air, and the stock IC's should be able to support them without getting heat soaked. (This is my opinion, I am not a mechanic and I have a join date of 2010 :D haahaa, so take that however you'd like)
Those mods with 12PSI would allow you to keep stock fuel, no aftermarket computer, and no FMIC or anything. It'll also be good for about 360HP or more without sacrificing the reliability nearly as much as some of the bigger mods.