stock or aluminum flywheel?

[n2nsanity]

Looking for some advice here....

What is everyone's opinions on this? Should I stay stock or go with a lightweight flywheel? If I do go lightweight, should I absolutely stay away from the cheaper brands or is there really much difference?

From what I've read, there isn't a whole lot of hp or tq increase with the upgrade, so I'm starting to lean towards the stock one i have.

Also I've heard of people shaving the stock flywheel. Is this a good idea? Only for smoothing the surface or is it bad if it's also for weight reduction?

Cost is a concern as far as how soon I will be have this car together, but if its truly worth it, i don't mind spending a little more. Or should I go stock and be safe and invest in something more beneficial?

Link in my signature pretty much covers everything I'm doing and what I have to work with so far.

thanks :)

[Lithium]

I used a fidanza flywheel on my FWD for 3 years and liked it except for the fact I had to get the RPMS up much higher to get the same movement under acceleration. How ever I was a great trade off for the NOTICABLE increase in top end performance. I gained a whole 15 MPH of top speed (dont ask how I figured that out) Just by switching from my stock to light weight flywheel. But with all that said I just recently switched back to a stock weight flywheel because Im planning on putting down some substantial numbers. hope that helps

[n2nsanity]

so you need your stock flywheel back on to keep up with your future mods?

[speedy25]

I'm enjoying the fidanza I put in mine. It doesnt increase horsepower but it does rev quicker since the rotating mass is lighter.

-SP

[MaxClass]

IPS makes a forged steel lightweight flywheel that comes in around 11.4 lbs or so. Personally I would go that route instead of aluminum if your looking for a lighter flywheel. The forged steel is much stronger too with less chance of warpage I would guess.

[Lithium]

so you need your stock flywheel back on to keep up with your future mods?

No, once you start pushing the 500HP mark its best to keep the stock flywheel and crank pulley. Reason being the extra weight/dampening helps keep the crank from warping and causing premature wear on the main bearings.

[jessecain1]

now that i look back on buying my lightweight flywheel i wish i would have just spent the money on some adjustable cam gears instead would be way more benifical on the 74 imho. the flywheel does its intended purpose but if your on a tight budget there are better ways to spend the $$$

[n2nsanity]

better ways as in cam gears?
are you talking about the custom fixed 3 position gears or the 3sx or other adustable cam gears?
any other recommendations
i'm really leaning towards stock flywheel at the moment

[jessecain1]

yes as in cam gears the 74 drops off pretty fast and it would be nice to be able to adjust the timing a little to get that extra little umph out of it. i personaly would go with adjustables vs. the fixed ones seeing as how the base rate on the fixed ones is for the 6g72. also i would just like the flexability of determining how i would want it. Dont get me wrong though a lightweight flywheel is nice but i just would spend the cash else where if your budget isn't too high.

[GTwizard]

There is no such thing is "what is better" when it comes to after market parts verses stock parts.
It has to do with what is best for your application, your expectation, your driving habits, And future intention of the car.
I always to to tell customers to stay stock. For those that wish not to remain stock, I have to ask them what are there expectations for the car.
Some folks I may recomend a stock fly wheel while other a light weight. The light weight flywheels will require just a little more throttle to move from a dead stop. But does not mean you need a tons of revs to get going. Same revs, just a little more throttle to keep the Rs from dropping. Reving will be quicker with less mass for sure. This is nice for the NA guys as we lack a bit of Grunt. I froun upon light weight after market none dampening crank drive pulleys, unless you are full race. In fact I will NOT install one on any of my customers cars for any reason. Now that being said, I do run a UR light weight under drive for our race car, but I am taking a risk that I choose to take. If I snap my crank, I don't care.
As far as cam gears go. I run adjustable so I can tune my exhaust cams to my headers and exhuast system to get the most from scavenging and adjustable intake cam gears so I can tune the intake cams to my intake system to better max out it's flow patterns as well. Again, I recomend stock for most applications. We are not stock. The NA's are fun to play with, but getting big power requires big money. These motor take a lot of coaksing to get them to respond. If it's power you are looking for, I recomend a VR4. It's cheaper than beating the daylight out of your NA. That being said, my NA was built for the sole purpose of beating on. The monies I have spent would have gotten my into one hell of a TT car. Just did not want one for our appication. Our car is also used as a test bed for future products. So going out and beating on the car is just part of what we do. I you do not wish to stay stock, I would say do the light fly wheel as you will have a lot of fun with it. Things like cam gears will not net you much if you do not have all the other supporting mods to take addvantage of the ability to adjust your cams. Keep in mind that a stock car is a package that was ment for John Q Public. Just as the TT cars. So, try to look at your car as a package. Don't waist your money trying to change the package as it takes a lot to do so.
Each and every part you change has a relation ship with other parts on the car. Lets look at headers. We run long tube race headers. Do they work for me? Yes. Will they work well for a car with stock exhast, stock are cleaner, stock cams, and stock heads. Yes. Will you net the power from the long tube headers that I do. NO. Not at all. The long tube headers are just part of our overall package. I love to see others work on taking their NA to a higher level. I just don't recomend it, unless you have an other DD. We are at a point where we eat a trans every year. Grrrr. And I do not want a heavy and modded getrag from a VR4 as adding weight to the car has never been part of the plan.. My new trans will run around 2 grand or so. Do I need it? Yes. Do you need it. Not yet. But you will if you have done what I did to my car. It is real easy to start a money pit. Unless you have monies to burn, keep it stock.
Here is a youtube of my car. This was not done overnight and not cheap. Don't let the Vidio fool you. It's still FWD. Just on an AWD dyno.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0JsdftRv0k

[DuTTch]

stock flywheel but lighten it up.

[n2nsanity]

thanks for the input guys
i was already leaning towards just resurfacing the original flywheel.
but i'd like to replace, upgrade, paint or polish everything i touch on this car where possible
just wanted some ideas/suggestions/opinions on it
i'm going to see if my machinist can lighten it for me. if not, i'll just resurface it
i'm keeping udp tho :p
i've never personally known anyone to have an issue from them
i also have 4 running cars, and do all my own work, so even if so, i can afford some downtime, as long as it doesn't interfere with ng11, lol
my 3/s's are strictly project/weekend cars :)