$50 rustoleum roll on paint job

[Flash Gordon]

Thought this was intresting

www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40341

[Skylinespeeder]

i did this on my 85 mercedes diesel couple years back, LOTS of work, but turned out great, i had about $125 in the whole car. It didnt turn out as nice as that mustang hood, but pretty good paint job, i did it in red

[Atrosity]

Agh, I don't recommend it at all. I tried to do something like this and it turned to complete crap. It is A LOT of work. I am paying a body shop to restore it back to 2 stage factory black for me.

[CincyTT]

i have not a clue how that guy got it to look that good. i would like to see it a year later after winter

[Hard AttacK]

Holy shitballs!

[colt45 gto]

now thats a nice finish, 12 hours between coats is a hell of a wait tho lol

[ChargerX3]

Yea, i have seen some great examples of these paint jobs. Kind of want to do this to the Stealth. Think they make forest green?

[colt45 gto]

in all honesty i wouldn't mind it for the van, it needs a fresh lick of paint especially with the inside all being new now. but get a cream or white. van was white originally.

[Atrosity]

This does look really really good though. Needs to be taking to the test!

[Trab]

Man i would LOVE to do this, i just dont know how you would get in the small cracks and stuff very well with the buffer...

[Bob]

Really turned out great!

[My92Stealth]

Did this to my old 92 base

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Mr.Wolf/IMG_3248.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Mr.Wolf/IMG_3250.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Mr.Wolf/046.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Mr.Wolf/045.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Mr.Wolf/049.jpg

Doing it to my 93Es (its only at the rolled stages now, now sanding and buffing)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Mr.Wolf/93%20ES/IMAG0262.jpg

[RL7]

These rustoleum jobs have been making their rounds for the last few years. As long as you put down enough material and sand and buff the crap out of it, of course it will look good. It's just an incredible amount of work. Considering how slow this stuff dries, you would want a pretty clean place to work if you wanted to keep crap out of the paint. I'd be interested to see how these rusteloeum jobs hold up compared to a real paint job. I'd like to think there's some reason I pay $200/gal for automotive paint. I'm fairly sure normal paints like this don't cure like automotive paints do, so while they can look nice, they won't be tough and chemical resistant. You could play a pretty nasty trick one one of these cars by tossing some paint thinner on them (you can clean cured, catalyzed automotive paint with thinners without issue). I know- who's going to do that, but I wouldn't be surprised to see strong cleaners take this paint off to some extent. I suspect if you were careful and really took care of one of these jobs- kept it clean, waxed, and out of the elements, it could hold up pretty well.

I absolutely hate sanding and would not be able to tolerate putting 4-5 coats onto a whole car and sanding after each one. And buffing is not fun either. Of course, I'm used to sanding catalyzed paints and body fillers and the rustoleum probably sands and buffs a hell of a lot easier. This may be why these shine up nice relatively easily. I would say to only do this if buying/using spray equipment is not an option just because doing a paint job is a lot of work regardless of how you do it and I just don't think putting down questionable material is a good idea.

[bluespire]

These rustoleum jobs have been making their rounds for the last few years. As long as you put down enough material and sand and buff the crap out of it, of course it will look good. It's just an incredible amount of work. Considering how slow this stuff dries, you would want a pretty clean place to work if you wanted to keep crap out of the paint. I'd be interested to see how these rusteloeum jobs hold up compared to a real paint job. I'd like to think there's some reason I pay $200/gal for automotive paint. I'm fairly sure normal paints like this don't cure like automotive paints do, so while they can look nice, they won't be tough and chemical resistant. You could play a pretty nasty trick one one of these cars by tossing some paint thinner on them (you can clean cured, catalyzed automotive paint with thinners without issue). I know- who's going to do that, but I wouldn't be surprised to see strong cleaners take this paint off to some extent. I suspect if you were careful and really took care of one of these jobs- kept it clean, waxed, and out of the elements, it could hold up pretty well.

I absolutely hate sanding and would not be able to tolerate putting 4-5 coats onto a whole car and sanding after each one. And buffing is not fun either. Of course, I'm used to sanding catalyzed paints and body fillers and the rustoleum probably sands and buffs a hell of a lot easier. This may be why these shine up nice relatively easily. I would say to only do this if buying/using spray equipment is not an option just because doing a paint job is a lot of work regardless of how you do it and I just don't think putting down questionable material is a good idea.

Well, if one was worried about the durability of the paint, one could still take the car to get it clear coated professionally, and still end up paying very little in the long run. Then you have a very good, but dirt cheap color, and the clear coat to withstand chemicals and elements. Or, would clear coat not stick to this stuff? I have no idea, just throwing this out there.

[CoreyB]

Justin, I thought the red was sprayed on ? How did it work for sides and did you used a brush to get in tight spots ?

[My92Stealth]

Justin, I thought the red was sprayed on ? How did it work for sides and did you used a brush to get in tight spots ?

It currently looks like it was sprayed but hasnt been cleared yet, but it was rolled. I was saving up and gathering supplies to do a read paint job but I chose this method because the car was about 5 different colors and I needed it done as soon as possible because the TT blew up. A weekend and a little bit of cash and I was golden.
I took the sideskirts, front bumper, lights, a and b pillars and door/window molding off so I could get everywhere. I had to use a little foam brush in some places. I also repainted the trim and whatnot black (I took the skirts and pillars apart as well).

[CoreyB]

Thats too funny. Normaly I would slap some one for saying the rolled/brushed their car. Clearly there is a way of doing it nicely !!!

[92RT-TT]

I've seen a few people do their cars like this with mixed results. If you take your time and put enough material on so you can buff the shit out of it, you can have good results.

Personally I've got a hookup for paint now and I've got my own spray guns so I just spray a car if I want to do it myself. I have yet to tackle a complete car, because my buddy is a professional painter so I've always relied on him to paint my cars.

[My92Stealth]

Yeah it takes a LOT of effort and time. If you have hours upon hours to spare (and extra hours because youre sure to mess up buffing) and are concerned about money, go for it. Or if you need to get your car covered in one color quick, like I did. Otherwise just get a real paintjob.

[RL7]

Well, if one was worried about the durability of the paint, one could still take the car to get it clear coated professionally, and still end up paying very little in the long run. Then you have a very good, but dirt cheap color, and the clear coat to withstand chemicals and elements. Or, would clear coat not stick to this stuff? I have no idea, just throwing this out there.

The thing is, if you did that you would still have to mask everything off and sand down the rustoleum job to try to get the clear to stick. After you do that, chances are pretty high that bad things would happen. The chemicals in the clear and reducer are pretty harsh and would probably eat or interact with the base. Modern paint systems are usually basecoat/clearcoat which means their meant to be sprayed one on top of the other to get chemical adhesion. I have best results when I spray my base, wait about 2x the normal flash time, and immediately shoot my clear. You can reclear something outside of the recoat window, but you absolutely have to scuff it with a scotchbrite or 600 grit or something because you will be relying exclusively on mechanical adhesion.

I think the best way to get a cheap paint job is to do all the hard stuff yourself- the sanding, bodywork, part removal, masking, and priming if possible. Block sand the primer with 400 and then take it to Macco or some shithole like that. Those guys usually don't do good paintjobs, but all they do is shoot paint all day, so they usually are ok at that. I would buy my own paint and bring it to them, because they usually use super low-quality materials and I think they have a limited selection of colors. They wont guarantee the job at all, but that shouldn't really matter. You will probably want to look at a car they have just painted to make sure they aren't shooting crazy orange peel. You could also try to find a legit shop that is willing to spray it for a reasonable price (the spraying part really isn't too hard, takes mabye 2 hours). You can shoot primer with a paint sprayer like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/high-volume-low-pressure-spray-gun-kit-44677.html

I did it a couple times. I think it came out ok, but you're going to sand the primer, so it shouldn't really matter (to a certain extent! don't stucco the car). Make sure you get the primer completely flat. Any imperfections in the primer will show in all the following layers.

Oh- you will probably want to bring the shop some of your primer as well so they can shoot a sealer-coat, especially if you have any filler or base or anthing else showing through. I haven't noticed a big difference if I omit the sealer, but it certainly won't hurt and many base coats claim that a sealer is required.

[Trab]

I might try this on my hood whenver my car gets back up and going...

[bluespire]

The thing is, if you did that you would still have to mask everything off and sand down the rustoleum job to try to get the clear to stick. After you do that, chances are pretty high that bad things would happen. The chemicals in the clear and reducer are pretty harsh and would probably eat or interact with the base. Modern paint systems are usually basecoat/clearcoat which means their meant to be sprayed one on top of the other to get chemical adhesion. I have best results when I spray my base, wait about 2x the normal flash time, and immediately shoot my clear. You can reclear something outside of the recoat window, but you absolutely have to scuff it with a scotchbrite or 600 grit or something because you will be relying exclusively on mechanical adhesion.

I think the best way to get a cheap paint job is to do all the hard stuff yourself- the sanding, bodywork, part removal, masking, and priming if possible. Block sand the primer with 400 and then take it to Macco or some shithole like that. Those guys usually don't do good paintjobs, but all they do is shoot paint all day, so they usually are ok at that. I would buy my own paint and bring it to them, because they usually use super low-quality materials and I think they have a limited selection of colors. They wont guarantee the job at all, but that shouldn't really matter. You will probably want to look at a car they have just painted to make sure they aren't shooting crazy orange peel. You could also try to find a legit shop that is willing to spray it for a reasonable price (the spraying part really isn't too hard, takes mabye 2 hours). You can shoot primer with a paint sprayer like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/high-volume-low-pressure-spray-gun-kit-44677.html

I did it a couple times. I think it came out ok, but you're going to sand the primer, so it shouldn't really matter (to a certain extent! don't stucco the car). Make sure you get the primer completely flat. Any imperfections in the primer will show in all the following layers.

Oh- you will probably want to bring the shop some of your primer as well so they can shoot a sealer-coat, especially if you have any filler or base or anthing else showing through. I haven't noticed a big difference if I omit the sealer, but it certainly won't hurt and many base coats claim that a sealer is required.

I've always wondered this, but during a normal paint job, on say the hood, at what point on the physical piece do you spray to? For instance, my hood looks like is painted from both the top and bottom. Is it necessary to spray-wrap the part? Or are the paints chemically bonding with the bare metal/plastic and with each other? From your description, it sounds like the clear chemically bonds to the base, which I assume chemically bonds to the primer, and the primer bonds to metal/plastic. Therefore, would I be correct in saying that one needs to only catch the edges of the piece while spray at say 45 degrees from each side, perpendicular the piece?

[Fletch]

Wasn't it found that boat paint called Topside is better that rustoleum for this type of inexpensive paint job? I have always wanted a beater truck to try this on. Maybe the jeep :D