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View Full Version : FWD How to rebuild your FWD 5 Speed Manual Transmission... (Guide)



BigBoris
01-18-2011, 12:51 AM
Ok so I decided to create this guide to help you rebuild your FWD 5 Speed Manual Transmission. Now I know after looking at this you might say "well you didn’t take the gears off the shafts." You're right, I didn’t need to. But this will give you a place to start minus all the gears. Let's get started…
First off place your transmission on the front bell housing as displayed.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00704.jpg
Then remove the seven 12mm bolds holding on the end piece. Under this you will see your 5th gear. You will need to remove the two 36mm nuts and the push pin holding it in place.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00705.jpg
This is the pin you need to remove.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00801.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00730.jpg
Next there is a 14mm bolt that you need to remove that is here, I didn’t have it in when I took this picture but you can't miss it.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00792-1.jpg
After you remove that one 14mm bolt, proceed to remove the other thirteen 14mm bolts holding the mid-case on.
Once you take this off you might want to take this chance to clean the mid-case. as it will build up some nasty stuff.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00710.jpg
Now you should see the gears exposed.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00711.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00712.jpg
The differential should just pull right out as nothing holding it in place.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00713.jpg

BigBoris
01-18-2011, 12:54 AM
Now this is where you will want to remove the two 12mm bold holding the reverse gear mechanism in place and take out the two push pins
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00768.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00767.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00767-1.jpg
Once you get the pins out you will need to turn the shafts in order to remove the gears the one on the left goes to the left and the two on the right go to the right. It's kind of tricky as you will need to move the gear selector around to do this.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00775-1.jpg
Once you get those moved you just lift the gears out. Now I kept mine together as I didn’t need to replace any of the gears on the shafts.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00728.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00735.jpg
The small gear in the bottom right is the reverse gear.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00729.jpg
And there you have your bell housing…
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00727.jpg

BigBoris
01-18-2011, 12:54 AM
Now to put it back together you would just follow these same steps in reverse.
Make sure when putting the mid-case and the end piece back on to add some kind of seal, I used this. It's an industrial strength (overkill) but should do the job.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00795.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00794.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00793.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00797.jpg
When you're all done, should look like this.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00803.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00804.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00805.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00806.jpg
And if you have any extra bolt's and parts you know you did it right…
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00807.jpg

R/T93
01-18-2011, 01:05 AM
Nice. It's intimidating but anyone can do this stuff.

I need to open mine up and repress the speedo gear on my quaife, and also need to replace the reverse idler gear/shaft. My reverse has never worked right, always pops out and figured its a cheap part I can just replace and see if that fixed the problem.

BigBoris
01-18-2011, 01:20 AM
Nice. It's intimidating but anyone can do this stuff.

I need to open mine up and repress the speedo gear on my quaife, and also need to replace the reverse idler gear/shaft. My reverse has never worked right, always pops out and figured its a cheap part I can just replace and see if that fixed the problem.

You'll find that there are 4 metal balls that are spring loaded. These spring loaded balls are what hold your gears in the selected gear.
These 3 are for 1-5 and reverse and there is one more that hold revers in place as well.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00802.jpg
Here is a break down of them with the location. I hope this helps. You may not need to take yours apart.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00732-1.jpg
You should find a small spring and a metal ball in each one of these holes. Check them first.

TUFFTR
01-18-2011, 02:46 AM
Best write up I've seen in ages. Just saved the entire thing. Sensational.

akotten
01-18-2011, 03:48 AM
How does this differ from an AWD?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Maximal
01-18-2011, 08:24 AM
Nice. It's intimidating but anyone can do this stuff.

I need to open mine up and repress the speedo gear on my quaife, and also need to replace the reverse idler gear/shaft. My reverse has never worked right, always pops out and figured its a cheap part I can just replace and see if that fixed the problem.

I agree on the intimidation factor. I ripped into mine after blowing up my stock diff to replace the bearings and put and LSD in. When I first looked at it I had no idea what was going on. I just spent a few minutes looking at the manual and studying how everything works and it actually all makes sense.


How does this differ from an AWD?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

AWD is the same basic idea but with a little more complication as you have the VCU/Planetary gears/output shaft. Same opinion of my above statement though, it might look complicated but it all makes sense after some studying.

Hans@GZP
01-18-2011, 08:53 AM
How does this differ from an AWD?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

The AWD trans is done in reverse. You remove the shifter assembly, bell housing, mid case... then all of the gears will be sitting straight up in the end case. There is a bolt that is behind the black plug in the end case. It's a 7mm or 12mm allen depending on what year your trans is.

mb3000
01-18-2011, 03:37 PM
Great write up.

R/T93
01-18-2011, 07:35 PM
You'll find that there are 4 metal balls that are spring loaded. These spring loaded balls are what hold your gears in the selected gear.
These 3 are for 1-5 and reverse and there is one more that hold revers in place as well.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00802.jpg
Here is a break down of them with the location. I hope this helps. You may not need to take yours apart.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00732-1.jpg
You should find a small spring and a metal ball in each one of these holes. Check them first.

Wow you are freaking awesome.

I use that as my fill hole for trans fluid, I know for a fact there is no ball/spring in it. Rofl.

Ok now I need to find a ball and spring.... Guess I will talk to hans :)

stealthee
01-18-2011, 08:18 PM
There is no spring and ball in the reverse hole. I also guarantee you don't use the reverse hole to fill with, it would be impossible.

Hans@GZP
01-18-2011, 08:27 PM
That piece does have a ball in it... but it's part of the bolt... like one assembly. So, if you have the plug in there, you should have the ball/spring.

R/T93
01-18-2011, 08:42 PM
There is no spring and ball in the reverse hole. I also guarantee you don't use the reverse hole to fill with, it would be impossible.

Hmm, I do use that hole to fill with, btw. It's not impossible its pretty easy, just takes a little while, I stuff a hose down there a couple inches and fill from a funnel......

And Hans, that bolt on mine DOES have the ball at the end of it, it springs back, maybe I dont need your parts afterall :/

stealthee
01-18-2011, 08:54 PM
Are you using the bolt on top thats near the shift linkage? Its been awhile since I had my trans apart but I beleive the reverse bolt is 14mm, while that bolt on top is 19mm. Thats not the reverse bolt, so that explains my confusion. The reverse bolt is on the backside near the diff, as illustrated in the 5th pic in the 1st post.

R/T93
01-18-2011, 08:59 PM
Gotcha. So that 14mm in the 5th pic is the reverse detent ball bolt? Thats what I need to check then, I guess.

You are right, that top bolt is a 19mm.

Hans@GZP
01-18-2011, 09:08 PM
The 14mm bolt on the back side of the trans holds the reverse idler gear. Don't unbolt that bad boy. The 19mm bolt is for the reverse detent. That's what holds it in place when you put it in reverse.

Hans@GZP
01-18-2011, 09:08 PM
If you have absolutely no reverse, then it's possible there is something wrong with the way you put the reverse idler gear and lever back on.

R/T93
01-18-2011, 09:17 PM
Oh my reverse works, it always has, it just pops out when any amount of power is put into it. It holds longer if i "hold" the lever in reverse, but there is no way I can put any more than maybe 50 ft/lbs of torque through the gear before popping out.

stealthee
01-18-2011, 09:30 PM
If you have absolutely no reverse, then it's possible there is something wrong with the way you put the reverse idler gear and lever back on.

Yeah, I wouldn't know anything about that would I Hans? :p

Hans@GZP
01-18-2011, 10:07 PM
Yeah, I wouldn't know anything about that would I Hans? :p

shit happens :p

Hans@GZP
01-18-2011, 10:08 PM
Oh my reverse works, it always has, it just pops out when any amount of power is put into it. It holds longer if i "hold" the lever in reverse, but there is no way I can put any more than maybe 50 ft/lbs of torque through the gear before popping out.

It could be a worn out sleeve for 1st/2nd and a worn out reverse idler gear. If those 2 things wear out too much, they won't stay engaged.

stealthee
01-18-2011, 10:17 PM
shit happens :p

Haha. It does. If it weren't for you I'd still not have a clue how to take a trans apart.

x2percentmilk
01-18-2011, 10:17 PM
Never turned a wrench on a car and a couple month after owning my car I blew a hole out of the end case on my FWD. These pictures would have saved me alot of time, and I hope they do that for someone else :)
My reverse is also kind of shifty (pun :P) I remember the entire assembly feeling odd when putting it back together, ill have to give it a look see.

Also, anyone know any resources for changing out synchros/stuff on the shaft? I like the idea of jacks transmission rebuild kits. Id assume you need some sort of press?

Hans@GZP
01-18-2011, 11:16 PM
You will need a press and a gear puller to yank everything apart. We offer a rebuild service as well.

Texan94SL
02-22-2012, 09:54 PM
This thread is a huge help to me.

The input shaft in my 94 SL is leaking badly. If I remove the fist cover, take out 5th, and remove the 2nd cover, will the input shaft come out without parts falling off of it?

I do not have a press so I would take it to a machine shop to have the required bearing pressing off and on done to get to the seal.

I could take the whole transmission to a shop but I would guess they would not do anything below a flat $250 minimum rate to change a $10 seal. The machine shop I can pay much less.

BigBoris
02-22-2012, 09:58 PM
Nothing will just fall apart, all the gears are held in place and just keep in mind to let it sit on the bell housing when you remove it so that you don't have any problems. Either way you can always reference my photos if you need.

Texan94SL
06-26-2012, 01:33 PM
I had the seal installed by a mechanic and he screwed it up. Now I have 1st gear in neutral, 2 and 3 move the car forward, no 4th, 5 is hard to get into, and reverse causes the engine to stall so it is going into a high forward gear in reverse.

I am getting a refund.

What do you think he screwed up? Did the forks get put back wrong?

Do you think I can look at your photos and put it back right? I have never done one before. I have done heads, pumps, and steering rack rebuilds.

Can the gears be put back wrong or do they only go in one way so the culprit is the fork installation?

I did not hear anything grind or break when I tested it out so the problem is with assembly.

What a headache. I wasted over 10 hours of labor for nothing. This is why I DIY things I am comfortable with.

BigBoris
06-26-2012, 08:02 PM
First question is simple, VR4 5sp or 6sp, or NA? After that I can guide you in the right direction. I believe this could simply be incorectly installed shift levers. There is a specific way they are to go in otherwise the gear wont work and you have to do it when the pressure ball bearings are in on the shafts.

Texan94SL
06-27-2012, 01:10 AM
94 NA 5 speed

I will likely take it apart this weekend and shoot pics as I do it so I can post them here if it will help you help me.

The mechanic wants me to bring it back but I am asking for at least a 75% refund. I'm not going to waste my time playing the install and remove transmission game.

BigBoris
06-27-2012, 01:39 AM
Well If he gives you your money back thats good. If all you did was seals then your gears should have never been touched. As a matter of fact, you can replace all but one seal with it still in the car. The input shaft is the only one you need to take apart to replace.

Texan94SL
06-27-2012, 02:56 AM
The input seal was done along with the other 2. As I understand it requires a shop press to do the input seal. I do not have one and did not want to buy it for a one time use. Also, I was not comfortable with doing this disassembly myself so I hired this guy.

I think I am best off trying to fix it myself at this point. Another mechanic will not know how it is supposed to go together because this guy messed up something.

The ball bearings that hold the gears in place; do those have to be removed before the fork shafts are put in?

TUFFTR
06-28-2012, 10:24 AM
Did he simply fuck up which way the shift cables go on?

BigBoris
06-28-2012, 07:15 PM
Well the cables being wrong wont be the mechanics fault since he didnt install the transmission.

Yes the ball bearings are the last thing you put in before you put on the end cap.

Texan94SL
06-29-2012, 01:49 PM
The cables slide on easily in the neutral position. But to just be sure I took them off and tested each position on the shift levers to see if I could find neutral anywhere; no such luck.

The fault is internal.

BigBoris
06-30-2012, 06:29 AM
Once you get the pins out you will need to turn the shafts in order to remove the gears the one on the left goes to the left and the two on the right go to the right. It's kind of tricky as you will need to move the gear selector around to do this.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b294/Mondoman9630/3000%20GT/Transmission/IMG00775-1.jpg


This is the step he may have failed...

Texan94SL
07-15-2012, 01:24 AM
I opened mine up today but I can not get the smaller gear off that mates to 5th gear under the upper cover. I don't see how a gear puller can be used if this is pressed on.

Did yours just lift out like 5th gear does?

stealthee
07-15-2012, 09:45 AM
That's exactly how it works. Use a gear puller and it comes right off.

Texan94SL
07-29-2012, 10:52 PM
UPDATE

I got it apart now. The oil guide fell out and I do not know how it goes back in. This is photo 1.

With it opened up the selector is not catching the 1st and 2nd gear bank very well. The 3rd to 4th gear shift is very sloppy and you have to slam it into 4th to make it go. Since 5th and reverse are kind of disconnected I can't gauge them well. The selector does seem to catch okay on that bank though.

I snapped a few photos to see if anyone can see something wrong that just stands out.

I'll shoot a video Monday and post up the shift action.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/texan_176/public/DSCN4102.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/texan_176/public/DSCN4103.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/texan_176/public/DSCN4104.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/texan_176/public/DSCN4105.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/texan_176/public/DSCN4106.jpg

BigBoris
07-30-2012, 01:53 PM
Hey, first of all why do I see signs of rusting and corrosion? you might want to change out your bearings and your synchros dont look do good either. What type of oil are you using?

Texan94SL
07-31-2012, 12:00 AM
The cause of the corrosion is unknown. I bought the car in 2002 and the person(s) who worked on the transmission were complete idiots. They broke all 3 of the transmission mount bolts in the housing and just installed the thing as is. I was driving around like that for years before I fixed it here:

Found the work of some POS mechanic on the transmission today - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center (http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/found-work-some-pos-mechanic-transmission-today-515314/)

Anyway, in the time I have had the car I always used this lube:

AMSOIL - Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90 (MTG) (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtg.aspx)

As for the synchros....only 3rd gear has a slight grinding sound to it if you shift fast. If you are slow to release the clutch there is no sound. All other gears work fine. The car has about 280K miles now and I doubt this thing was rebuilt at any point.


I shot a 50 second video but nothing on it is remarkable so it is not worth an upload. But I took some photos of the gears in various positions.

The problem I had was that all of the gears were messed up after the mechanic rebuild. I have done nothing to alter his work so here are the pics. Installed the car is in 1st gear in neutral. It is NOT a shifter cable issue. I tested without cable just moving the linkage by hand and neutral position is 1st gear. Also I had no reverse; reverse was a high forward gear that caused the engine to stall when the clutch was released.

The first 2 pics are of the 1st and 2nd fork in the neutral position.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/texan_176/public/DSCN4107.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/texan_176/public/DSCN4108.jpg

Next is the 1st gear position

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/texan_176/public/DSCN4109.jpg

Then 2nd gear

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/texan_176/public/DSCN4110.jpg

I also took pics of the other fork.

This is 3rd

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/texan_176/public/DSCN4113.jpg

This is 4th

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v257/texan_176/public/DSCN4115.jpg


Of course, I can not take a photo of 5th and reverse since 5th is removed and reverse is not bolted down.

I'm stumped on how neutral = 1st in this thing.

BigBoris
07-31-2012, 12:16 AM
So even when its all apart it still does the same thing? you should be able to see the gears spinning when you engage them.

Reverse is the first picture you have in your last post.

And after further review of your pictures, none of them are in neutral.

I see that you were demonstrating the gear engaged but show them in neutral as well.

Texan94SL
07-31-2012, 01:56 AM
The Second pic on this page is of the fork for 1st and 2nd in the neutral position.

If it is in neutral and I turn the input shaft by hand should there be zero movement on the differential gear ?