Is this CAS toast?

[3kgt1734]

Alright. I replaced my bad CAS and my car started and ran for like 30 seconds then died again. So I tore aveything back down and found this

http://i55.tinypic.com/rt118m.jpg

It looks like the trigger wheel has carved into the CAS. Would that make it stop working all together?

[stealthee]

The trigger wheel is likely your issue. If its not in its proper place the coils will not fire at the right time.

[3kgt1734]

Alright, how do I tell if the trigger wheel is out of line?

Here is a pic

http://i56.tinypic.com/21jrnn5.jpg

[GTOJOE]

It's pretty hard for the wheel to be out of place as it fits on the keyway. The fact it's hitting the sensor is prob the problem. It might be too far away from the sensor to be picking it up. Has one of the tabs been bent or anything?

[3kgt1734]

Not that I can tell. If you look closely at the picture you can see where the edge of the bottom two the blades are clean, so there must have been contact with something. Also, just to the right of the lowest blade there is a clean ring where the wheel mist've been hitting. Just the the right of the Should I just replace it and the cas?

[GTOJOE]

Not that I can tell. Should I just replace it and the cas?

It's the only way to know if it's causing your issues. So I would say yes. Replace both. Which is a pain cus you have to pull the timing belt.

[3kgt1734]

Alright. Looks like I'm pulling the timing belt then! How fun.

[stealthee]

Are you sure you didnt somehow put the new CAS in wrong causing it to make contact with the blade? Maybe you didnt tighten it properly?

I don't know, I'm just trying to throw other ideas out there before you go pulling the timing belt for nothing.

[3kgt1734]

Are you sure you didnt somehow put the new CAS in wrong causing it to make contact with the blade? Maybe you didnt tighten it properly?

I don't know, I'm just trying to throw other ideas out there before you go pulling the timing belt for nothing.

I may have put the CAS in wrong. Is it possible to overtighten it? None of this could be my problem, I'm just at the point where I'm going to replace shit until it starts :)

Here (http://www.3sgto.org/f2/new-ecu-iac-coil-pack-fuel-pump-cas-still-no-start-2983.html) is my other thread where I tried to diagnose my no spark problem.

I think both you and GTOJOE had a couple of posts.

[Hans@GZP]

Here's what you do to test the CAS. Plug it into the harness and turn the key on. Pass a piece of metal through the sensor and you should hear a fuel injector click every time you pass the metal through the sensor. If you don't, then the sensor is bad.

[Hans@GZP]

PS. You can't really install the sensor wrong. If you put it on backwards, the metal ring would never pass through the sensor.

Make sure your blades are straight before installing another sensor. They would have to be bent towards the engine to have hit that part of the sensor so the marks on the blades would be on the back.

[3kgt1734]

PS. You can't really install the sensor wrong. If you put it on backwards, the metal ring would never pass through the sensor.

Make sure your blades are straight before installing another sensor. They would have to be bent towards the engine to have hit that part of the sensor so the marks on the blades would be on the back.

Alright, should I just bend the blades back by hand? and then turn the engine my hand a couple of times and make sure that there is no contact?

[Hans@GZP]

yes111!!!111

[RL7]

yes111!!!111

Second this. Don't pull the timing belt. It's just a metal disc, if it's bent out of shape bend it back. A bent wheel can definitely destroy a cas. The wheel probably contacted some debris- hopefully not something that broke off the engine. Most likely, the (old?) cas came loose and bent the blade. You can also check the cas with a multimeter and a piece of metal, but you will still need a 12v source. The injector click method is probably easier, I have just never tried it.

[BaadVR4]

I STRONGLY recommend you pull the timing belt, then take the crankshaft sprocket off and inspect the CAS spacer, trigger blade and the small dowel pins that are used to hold the spacer and the trigger blade in place. I suspect the pins have worked loose/come out, allowing the spacer and/or trigger blade wheel to move. If that is the case, bending the blades won't solve the problem. Mitsubishi has the spacer and blades new. I don't know if Mitsu has the dowel pins, but 3SX does. Bending the blades may or may not get them back where they belong. Better safe than sorry. Just my 1.5 cents worth.

[3kgt1734]

I STRONGLY recommend you pull the timing belt, then take the crankshaft sprocket off and inspect the CAS spacer, trigger blade and the small dowel pins that are used to hold the spacer and the trigger blade in place. I suspect the pins have worked loose/come out, allowing the spacer and/or trigger blade wheel to move. If that is the case, bending the blades won't solve the problem. Mitsubishi has the spacer and blades new. I don't know if Mitsu has the dowel pins, but 3SX does. Bending the blades may or may not get them back where they belong. Better safe than sorry. Just my 1.5 cents worth.

Is it possible for them to come loose even though I have never had the crank sprocket off?

[3kgt1734]

Also if I pull the timing belt how to I remove the crankshaft sprocket? Does it just slide off?

[Hans@GZP]

it just slides off. If you rotate the crank (with the timing belt still on) make sure the blades still turn with it. You can line up the timing mark on the crank/oil pump and temporarily install the lower timing cover and crank pulley. The notch on the crank pulley should line up to the 0 on the timing belt cover. If they line up and the blade moves with the crank, then I wouldn't think there is any problem there.

[Steve '92ES]

PS. You can't really install the sensor wrong.
It can be done. Don't ask how I know, just trust me....:dunce::dunce::dunce:









In my rush to get done I somehow managed to not get it seated flat and tightened it down at a jaunty little angle. The car wouldn't start and when I looked at it again the wheel was rubbing on the senor. Once I got it put in where it belonged it fired right up and has been fine since.
Just goes to prove, never say never..

[3kgt1734]

You get that when the thrust washers are worn. It's what's referred to as crankwalk.
You get worn thrust washers when you start it up with your foot on the clutch, It's made worse by having a heavy duty pressure plate.

Steve

Isn't that the only way to start a 3000gt? with your foot on the clutch?

PS I just replaced that CAS and it fired right up, but is making weird ass noises

[GTOJOE]

I think the foot on the clutch is a USDM thing cus none of the JDM GTOs have it. Did you replace the wheel as well?

[Steve '92ES]

you get worn thrust washers when you start it up with your foot on the clutch, It's made worse by having a heavy duty pressure plate.

That old chestnut's been around since they started putting in clutch switches (in the USA) 30 years ago.
As far as I know no one's ever found any evidence of it being a problem. It's one of those myths that got busted years ago.

(I'm not saying there's NO wear, just that, if I remember this right from years ago when this was making the rounds it doesn't cause enough wear to worry about.)

[3kgt1734]

I think the foot on the clutch is a USDM thing cus none of the JDM GTOs have it. Did you replace the wheel as well?

No I didn't replace the wheel. When I replaced it the first time I think may have bent a blade just a little bit. I bent it back and there was no contact with the new cas.

[stealthee]

It's pretty easy to test for.......

Push on the crank pulley, see if it moves in......get friend to step on the clutch, see if the pulley moves out. There's no other reason it would break, unless it's a waterpump which someone on here commented that they just break for no reason at all.

Steve

Don't even start your shit about the water pumps again. They go out due to either manufacturing defects, or age.

[Steve '92ES]

As far as I know the biggest killer of water pumps is not changing the antifreeze. It slowly turns acidic and after several years it can attack the pump bearings, which causes the shaft to wobble, which takes out the seals (it can also rot out the radiator and heater core). At least that's what they told us in Auto class 30 years ago...
Defectives are a whole 'nuther thing. If I remember correctly wasn't there a run of aftermarket pumps with bad pulleys that would shatter and cause all kinds of carnage?

[stealthee]

Leet had an issue, as well as a few others with ebay pumps having the pulley seperate and come thru the timing cover.

And not sure if you saw his other posts but mister Steve68's answer to a bad water pump is always that a bad headgasket caused it. What's funny is he still beleives it even though he has not one ounce of proof and not one person backs him on his claims.

[Steve '92ES]

Yeah I saw that. I wouldn't say it's impossible but it does seem unlikely. I would think you'd blow out the radiator before you built up enough pressure to damage the pump.