Saved From The Crusher - 93 Stealth TT Rebuild/Restore [Archive]

DrGonzo

09-12-2010, 08:29 PM

Copying over from 3si. Project started 08-25-2010, 08:20 PM

So one of the local 3S Guys picked up a 93 Stealth TT last year with the intent to part it out and then scrap it. Well, I was lucky enough to get my hands on it before it went to the crusher! I hate to see these cars crushed especially a Stealth TT.

So Mithrender, Stealthlabel and myself went and hauled it to my house last weekend. Since then I have been stripping what was left of the car down so I can do a full rebuild/restore of the car. I am going to be replacing, repainting, reconditioning every part of the car that I can.

Ignore the rims! They were mounted just so it rolls.
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0624.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0624.jpg)

I love the glass top!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0627.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0627.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0628.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0628.jpg)

Started stripping the interior
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0625.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0625.jpg)

The car is originally black so I have a nice base color to start with. The previous owner rattle canned the gray color so I have to sand it all off before I respray the car. I am going to be painting the car flat black with a satin clear. I am going to be using the parts from my 92 FWD/TT as I intend to make a nice Stealth tailor out of that car. I chose to scrap that car as I don't trust the frame with the TT engine since I cut the roof for the targa project.

I started with the engine bay. I stripped out all that I could, decreased it and now I am getting ready to repaint it. I should have it sprayed in the next day or so.

Engine bay stripped!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0626.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0626.jpg)

All of the engine bay parts and wiring harness.
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0629.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0629.jpg)

Removed the buckets.
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0630.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0630.jpg)

Lots of surface rust
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0632.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0632.jpg)

Rust removed & primered, 2nd gen buckets welded in
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0634.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0634.jpg)

Prepping for engine bay respray
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0636.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0636.jpg)

Here is my list of current mods that I have lined up for the car "More to come":

99 Conversion "Already welded in the new buckets"
Evil Eye hood
ABS Delete
AWS Delete
Intrax lowering springs "Already installed"

DrGonzo

09-12-2010, 08:30 PM

So I got around to spraying the engine bay today. I finished removing the last of the parts including the hood. Prepped the engine bay and sprayed to coats of primer. Then on with the color. Three coats of gloss black!

I used Duplicolor Paint Shop lacquer. Not the rattle can shit! This is the paint can enamel you find at AutoZone that is premixed/reduced. I only use it in the engine bay as it really easy to work with and spray and it holds up really well! I sprayed my other Stealth's engine bay with it 5 years ago and it still looks great. It is really hard to chip the paint also so it is great for the engine bay! Since it is also a one stage it comes out looking really shiny as you can see in the pic's. Sorry they are a little bright. I constructed a make-shift paint booth out of my canopy and 3mil plastic which made it really bright.

Click on the images for full res shots:

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0639.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0639.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0640.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0640.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0641.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0641.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0642.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0642.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0643.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0643.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0644.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0644.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0645.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0645.jpg)

I am going to start re-assembling the engine bay over the next couple of days. going to take some time as things need to be cleaned, re-sprayed, modified..etc! Plus I also need to start pulling parts off of the other Stealth to install on this one. I will update this thread accordingly!

DrGonzo

09-12-2010, 08:32 PM

08-26-2010, 09:50 PM

Engine wise it will be stock except still N/A 10:1 pistons. I have the TT pistons already but I don't want to do another engine breakdown just yet. The engine will be due for 120k tuneup in like 15,000 miles so I will just run the car on the N/A pistons until that time. Then swap them out when I have the engine torn apart. Just easier for me. Until I swap out the pistons I am not going to be doing any major engine mods. I will prep for later mods by doing some fuel, ignition and electronics.

For the time being I am going to be doing an ABS and AWS delete. Once everything is complete and I thing the engine is running good and healthy I'll think about doing some power upgrades. My main goal is to just have a good healthy running AWD TT! :)

08-27-2010, 10:23 PM

So today I wasn't able to get much done. I was able to get the rear end dropped, the AWS removed, and the rear stripped apart. It was in really good shape jut really dirty. I didn't strip it down to the actual individual pieces as I didn't think it was necessary. I sanded down the small rust spots and treated them with rust converter. I will add a coat of rattle can black paint just to freshen it up some. I need to order new sway bar links as they are shot. Right now I am waiting for my heim joints to arrive so I can button up the AWS delete. I ended up using a rubber expandable plug as it is removable and easy to get in and out. I will make a metal bracket that uses the old pump mounting hole to actual secure it better.

I only got a few pics as my battery in the camera died. I'll get more in the next day or so.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0646.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0646.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0647.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0647.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0648.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0648.jpg)

08-30-2010, 09:32 PM

I finished painting and cleaning the rear end today. I started to re-assemble it but I am still waiting on the Heim joints for the AWS delete and the sway bar end links. When I drained the rear diff the oil was really old and stank really bad. The drain plug had a lot of sludge and fine metal particles on it. I examined the gears and everything looks good. turns smooth and no binding! I am just wondering what type of gear oil to use in the rear dif? My debate is between the Valvoline Synth or Mobile 1 Synth?

So what is everyone else using in their Rear Dif's?

I also sprayed the 2nd coat of paint on the engine bay. Now that it is complete I can start re-assembling the engine bay. I have to re-wrap the wiring harnesses first as the wire loom is crap and falling apart. The I start on the non-ABS brakes! Yeah....

DrGonzo

09-12-2010, 08:33 PM

08-31-2010, 09:17 PM

I got the Heim joints in today from SpeedwayMotors.com. Really fast shipping and the quality is great.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0708.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0708.jpg)

I am only missing the sway bar end links now and the rear end will be complete. I am still going to install it tomorrow as I have brake work that needs to be completed and the sway end links are easy to install.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0709.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0709.jpg)

I also as able to get some of the engine bay items re-installed. Non-ABS prop valve and lines where installed along with the clutch and some of the A/C lines.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0711.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0711.jpg)

Next on the list is repairing any issues with the body wiring harness and re-wrapping it with new electrical tape as the old tape is brittle and cracks easily.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0713.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0713.jpg)

09-01-2010, 03:42 PM

I used the same parts as are listed in this thread:

http://www.3si.org/forum/f116/aws-delete-how-i-did-367862/

Parts came out to like $95.00 including shipping. I picked up the bolts at a local hardware store. The joints are really nice and self lubricating from what I can tell. Shipping took like 2-3 days.

I didn't drill out and retap the holes though. I used metric grade 8 for the x-member side and 1/2 grade 8 for the control arm side. You will need to open up the hole a little on the control arm as the 12mm bolt hole is just a tad to small for the 1/2 bolt.

09-02-2010, 09:20 PM

So I didn't get to much accomplished today. I finished off the front body wring harness. The mailman brought me a gift today so I was actually able to install the harness. When I removed the harness I cut all of the old zip ties holding it to the frame. I had to order new ones and it took some time to hunt down. I finally found some that would work from a company called clipsandfasteners.com.

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/v/vspfiles/photos/A20380-2.jpg

Push Mount Cable Tie For Imports 200mm Length (http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Push_Mount_Cable_Tie_For_Imports_200mm_Length_p/a20380.htm)

They hold pretty good in the think metal like the side frame by the wheels. Thinner metal they pop out if to much stress is applied. They are still the best fasteners I could find. After getting the harness attached I noticed the main power wire from the engine fuse box had oxidation pretty bad so I have to pick up some good power wire to replace the corroded one.

Tomorrow I am going to try and remove the front steering rack so I can finish removing the AWS lines and plug up the holes. I may replace it with the N/A rack I have depending on it's condition.

Once that is complete I need to start prepping the engine for removal from the other car and start pulling the interior as I need to wire in the new gauges and electronics into the new car.

DrGonzo

09-12-2010, 08:35 PM

09-03-2010, 07:17 PM

So I started to strip the front suspension apart to clean it up. Well, looks like I am going to have to replace most of it. Both tie rod ends are shot. The ball joints both need to have new boots "Ball joints are still good". The whole steering rack will have to be rebuilt. Sway bat ends are shot and I also may need a new wheel bearing. The Front Passenger bearing was a little loose but I was able to press the race back in to tighten it up. I believe it was caused by the car sitting for so long without axles.

I am also starting to pull interior parts out as I need to wire in the electronics to the new dash. This weekend I hope to have the engine prepped to pull out of the other car sometime next week. I may have to hold off on dropping in the engine until I get all the replacement parts ordered and back on the car. Will be easier to put things like the steering rack/Swat bay back on with the engine out of the car...

09-05-2010, 12:38 AM

I was able to get the dash, engine wiring harness and all of the electronics out of the other car today. I was able to get the Prosport gauges mounted to replace the triple gauges and I was able to get the glow needles finished and installed.

The glow needles are not a kit. I built these from scratch and installed them myself. And yes they are a pain in the ass!!!

Needles installed:
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0721.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0721.JPG)

Night Shot:
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0724.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0724.JPG)

Testing the Glow needles and the gauges:
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0729.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0729.JPG)

Tomorrow I am going to try and get the engine wiring harness installed so that I can start working a little on getting the interior of the car back together. I am waiting on parts to show up so I can't really do much more work on the front end at this time.

09-05-2010, 09:47 PM

So even though I am waiting on parts to get the front steering and suspension completed. I actually got a lot done today!

I started off by removing the TT harness from the other car and getting it installed in the new one. Spent some time removing some of the old tape and wire loom and re-wrapping it. I have one connector that I have to replace as I cut some wires on it to wire in the front O2 sensor on the other car. I have the connector I just have to wire it in.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0732.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0732.jpg)

I also finished cleaning what was left of the front end. The inner wheel wells were coated with dirt/grease/???. I had to use a paint scrapper to get most of it off! Wire brush got the rest. Then degreaser and a nice fresh coat of under-body rubberizer!

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0733.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0733.jpg)

Since I had the wiring harness in, I was able to get the carpet installed. It is not the best looking but nothing a little steam cleaning won't take care of...

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0736.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0736.jpg)

And... since I had the carpet in I figured I might as well install the dash! Luckily I finished off the gauges the other day so there really was nothing left to do. I got it installed and then realized I forgot to change out the VIN plate...OOoops! So I had to pull the dash all over again to drill out the rivets and put in the correct VIN plate.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0738.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0738.jpg)

I am unable to install the steering column as the steering rack is waiting on a rebuild. so it looks a little funny right now. The Apexi turbo timer is install right on the main gauge cluster and the SAFC in located inside the center console. I am debating on whether or not I want to install the pillar pod for the wideband and fuel gauge. I am thinking I might install them in the empty slot under the radio.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0740.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0740.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0741.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0741.jpg)

I will most likely finish off the interior in the next couple of days. My seats are trashed so I am just going to use some cheap seat covers until I can save up the money to get the leather replaced.

Tomorrow I am going to start pulling the last of the parts off the other car to prep the engine for transfer. I also need to remove/install things like the sidemounts, oil cooler, etc.

Car is coming together 1 piece at a time!!!

DrGonzo

09-12-2010, 08:36 PM

09-09-2010, 07:36 PM

Well I finally got the engine pulled from the FWD TT. I even broke one of the wheels on my engine hoist doing it. Stupid cheap bots holding the front wheel broke and the metal base for the wheel bent. This made it an absolute pain in the ASS to move the lift after I hoisted up the engine. I need to go get some washers to mount the engine to the engine stand. all of the ones I have are to damn small! I forgot how long the transfer case bolts are.... :)

I decided that I am not going to rebuild the TT steering rack but instead use the one from the N/A. It is in really good condition just needs the bellows replaced, Which I got lucky and Pep Boys had 2 kits for $18.00 each!

I also got all of my suspension parts in today so I will be getting the front suspension put back together tomorrow.

I have to pull the front and rear valve covers as I noticed them leaking a little oil. Other than that the engine looks nice and clean. I don't know why the some of the pullys have rust on them. the engine hasn't run in some time so I am pretty sure it's just surface rust. I'll clean them up and reinstall them before I drop the engine into the TT frame. ll of the belts are brand new so no need to replace any of them.

Here are some of the pics I have from pulling the engine:

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0749.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0749.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0750.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0750.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0751.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0751.jpg)

Engine sitting on tires as I can't mount it to the engine stand due to lack of correct size washers! :)
"Hoist is taking some of the weight off so nothing is getting crushed/damaged"

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0752.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0752.jpg)

09-10-2010, 07:24 PM

@Lawdogg - I just found out that this was the frame you were wanting to get at one point...LOL

So I was able to get the front suspension back together with all fresh tie rods, Sway bar links, ETC. I even got all of the steering back on the car, The N/A steering rack cleaned up real nice and is not leaking at all. Put new bellows on it and it's looking good.

Does anyone know if the stock steering rack is made by Koyo? As that was the rack I just installed. I'm wondering if it was replaced prior to me getting the car 10 years ago!

I got pics of everything but I havn't gotten them upload. I'll get them uploaded later on tonight or tomorrow.

PsykoGamer

09-13-2010, 12:12 AM

damn talk about getting alot done to it in such a short period of time. Hope it turns out how you want it to :)

Skylinespeeder

09-13-2010, 01:00 AM

looks AWESOME! back to your earlier comment about the glass roof, yea they are pretty sweet, until the edges dry rot also if you have anything in the trunk you cant take the top off :( but yea i really like my sunroof!!!

ballermj23

09-13-2010, 10:57 AM

nice restore. looking forward to see more pics ...

Atrosity

09-13-2010, 11:02 AM

DRGonzo, how do you like the prosport gauges? I went with aem gauges instead.

jcr5186

09-13-2010, 12:50 PM

Awesome thread... Keep it going!

L_P

09-13-2010, 02:16 PM

Very nice work and job. Keep it up!

Atrosity

09-13-2010, 02:23 PM

Such a nice job! Drgonzo ftmfw!

DrGonzo

09-13-2010, 08:35 PM

damn talk about getting alot done to it in such a short period of time. Hope it turns out how you want it to :)

The thread was copied over from 3si so I can track it on this site instead. I actually started the project last month. I had most of the parts already as I am using my old 92 R/T for parts. Plus it already had the TT motor.

DRGonzo, how do you like the prosport gauges? I went with aem gauges instead.

I like the Prosport Gauges. My only issue is that I bought two some time ago and when I finally got the last one it glows differently. they must have changes how they light up. I eventually want to move over to the "Peak/warn" series as I like how I can set the gauges to go red if something is out of spec.

I have some AEM gauges that are going to go into the radio din slot. WB/Fuel/Volt I would have used them in the cneter but they don't come in blue so it would not look right with the blue glow gauges/needles I have in the main cluster.

DrGonzo

09-17-2010, 11:41 PM

So it's been a couple days since I updated this post. I have been doing a little here and there while waiting on parts to show up. Mostly prepping the body for paint.

The previous owner decided that the dent in the drivers corner panel was easily fixed by slapping on Bondo and painting over it without sanding it flat! Looked like complete shit! So I removed all the Bondo, pulled out the dent, and leveled off and straightened the panel. Also had to fix a crease/dent on the pass quarter panel right at the fuel door. I removed all the panels around the glass. Cleaned them all and removed all of the old molding tape. The side sail window panels where a pain as the damn screws holding the outer sail panel to the inner where locked tight! I had to cut the heads off two of them.

Had a local parts store get my rotors and pads. They also turned my flywheel and rear rotors for less than $40.00. I noticed they had some paint in stock but not the color I was looking for. The clerk told me that the NAPA across the street mixes paint. So I headed over there while waiting on the flywheel/rotors to get turned. I got lucky as they had flat black right on the shelf, but only one gallon! PCC Acrylic Enamel Flat Black. The gallon was $45.00 so what the hell. Total bill for paint, reducer and hardener was $97.00. The hardener and reducer is enough to do 3 gallons if mixed correctly. NAPA clerk told me they always keep a gallon of each color so they will be ordering more....YEAH!

So today was really busy for me. I was stoked about getting some parts painted. I build my own little paint booth using 2mm plastic drop and my canopy! Worked great and really contained the overspray and kept everything nice and clean.

Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0771.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0771.jpg)

Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0772.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0772.jpg)

The gun I am using is nothing special. It;s an HVLP Harbor Freight special. I paid like $30.00 for it two days ago. It's a nice gun and sprays really clean and smooth. Set the regulator at 55psi and I got a good smooth 8-10" fan spray. It took me a little while to get the gun set correctly. Thank god my spare hood was out front. it made a good canvas for adjusting the gun.

I started off spraying the door caps as they are somewhat pretty flat and if the paint didn't go on smoothly they would be the easiest sand down if needed. Well after two solid coats they came out great! I am really surprised how good the color is and how smooth the paint went on. Granted there are a few spots that will need some attention but that's to be expected when painting outside.

Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0773.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0773.jpg)

Here is my work area! Right in the front yard at the end of my driveway...LOL
Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0774.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0774.jpg)

After my success with the door caps I moved up to something a little harder. The side skirts has a lot of inverted curves that can be tricky and cause runs if not sprayed right. I adjusted the spray pattern and lowered the paint flow so I could hit those tricky parts of the side skirts first. Then I laid down a solid spray over the whole panel. I had a small run develop by the vent hole. Nothing to major and after it dried you can barely notice it. I will still hit it when I start wet sanding the panels. Again the paint came out really consistent and smooth!

Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0775.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0775.jpg)

Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0776.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0776.jpg)

Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0777.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0777.jpg)

Now on to a really tricky one, the front 99 bumper! Yeah......
This one took the most time with prepping, filling in the Mitsubishi logo, sanding again, etc. Luckily the table I build was just the right side to hold the bumper for easy painting.

Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0778.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0778.jpg)

I used the same process I did with the side skirts. The only difference is that the first coat was a little light and I actually ran out of paint in the gun. The gun only holds 18oz. Since I am trying to conserve paint I am not mixing the full 18oz each time. I try to guesstimate how much I will use. I was a little off on the front bumper. So the front bumper actually got 2 1/2 coats for the most part!

Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0780.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0780.jpg)

Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0781.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0781.jpg)

I also got a nice delivery from 3SX today! My caliper bolts, Throw out bearing and Radio/3 gauge bezel. So now I can finally get the front calipers on, Install the trans and finish installing the gauges......:P

So now I have to decide what I want to finish off first. I think I will finish painting what I can. I have about 1/2 gallon left so I will probably tackle the rear bumper, front fenders and wing. I'll wait to tackle the main body until I can get another full gallon of paint from NAPA.

Until next time....:P

Primus101

09-18-2010, 03:35 AM

Great resurrection thread, Greg!
You can drastically reduce runs if you apply the first coat light(like a heavy dusting), let it tack up, and then hose on.
Subscribed for an awesome finished project-

DrGonzo

09-18-2010, 09:13 PM

Didn't get a chance to do any painting today. I made a trip out to a local members to buy a set of aluminum VR-4 rims as none of the rims I have here would clear the calipers.

Since I wasn't able to do any painting I tackled installing the trans. Would have took me less that 20 min to install it but I was having some issues as it would not slide in all the way. I though that the clutch was not aligned correctly. I got under the car to see if I could tell where it was hanging up at. Well I didn't realize that the metal flywheel cover and metal gasket between the engine/trans are different between the N/A and TT. The output shaft for the transfer case was hitting the gaskets. So I removed the metal flywheel cover and bent the engine/trans gasket up out of the way. I'm going to have to go in and trim them a bit to compensate for the transfer case. I didn't spend much time on it. Just wanted to get it dropped in.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0783.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0783.jpg)

I was also able to button up the front brakes not that the shafts where in place. SS brake lines, new stock rotors, reconditioned the calipers themselves and Raybestos brake pads. Staying with the stock configuration as far as pads/rotors till I get the car good and running correctly!

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0782.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0782.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0784.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0784.jpg)

I test fitted the 99 bumper as I wanted to see how it looked all painted up. WOW.... it makes the car look so mean!!!!!

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0785.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0785.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0786.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0786.jpg)

Here are the 17" VR-4 rims I picked up. They have Fusion ZRI 245/45WR17 tires mounted on them. I will be replacing the Mitsu center caps with just plain chrome ones.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0787.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0787.jpg)

Here is what is left of my 92 Stealth R/T Targa! Looks pretty sad but I do plan on turning it into a tailor once the TT is on the road.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0788.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0788.jpg)

The Old and the New plus a pretty looking 91 R/T in the background...:)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0789.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0789.jpg)

Painted panels stored on the front porch so they don't get damaged.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0790.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0790.jpg)

Nationalmilkman

09-18-2010, 09:38 PM

Going with the flat black? Looks good but I like the Gen2 Stealth side skirts with the 99 front better, but that's just me. Great job, this is something I'll use when I redo my car. Thanks for all the hard work and updates.

CoreyB

09-18-2010, 09:40 PM

Thanks for adding this awesome restore thread to 3SGTO.org.

Greg E

09-19-2010, 07:58 AM

Ah thank you for the link to the ziptie body clips!

Great thread too. I love reading about restoration builds like this. Soon I'll have a 98/99 which will go thru this process!

DrGonzo

09-25-2010, 08:25 PM

So I have not been able to do much work on the car lately. I finally landed a job with a local software company! Yeah... With me not getting home till 6pm during the week the only time I get to work on the car now is the weekends.

I spent Friday getting the body prepped for paint. I need to get the main body painted before it gets to cold. I removed everything down to the main body itself. Since the car was originally black I wasn't to concerned about painting the door jambs and all that. The original gloss black makes a good contrast to the flat black. Plus the paint in the door jambs is in good enough condition that a little wet sanding will bring back the shine nicely!

After sanding down the body I spent a few hours with glazing putty filling in all the little rock chips and so forth. Got everything sanded down smooth with a 200 grit. I then proceeded to tape up all the glass and the roof.

Hint: 3M blue painters tape sucks! Since I taped everything up the night before, the morning dew the next day soaked into the tape and it started pulling up! Luckily I used lots of tape so I was still good to paint.

Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0791.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0791.jpg)

Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0792.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0792.jpg)

Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0793.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0793.jpg)

I debated for so time as to painting the roof flat black but with the glass sunroof being black I didn't think it would look right. I decided instead to paint the roof gloss black. That way I sort of keep the stock blacktop look and it will blend better with the sunroof!

Today I went out and cleaned all the panels up and sprayed the first coat. I though the first coat went on smooth but once it dried I noticed that it had orange peeled on me! SHIT.... Well it seems I didn't thin out the paint enough on the first batch. Luckily the hardener I am using allows me to wet sand after the first hour. I hit all the fresh paint with a 400 grit to smooth it out but still keep it rough enough for the next coat to have something to stick to.

Once I got everything sanded and wiped down I hit it with the next coat. I made sure that I reduced the paint enough this time. Second coat went on really nice! There are a few spots of the car that have some light over spray "like the hatch" but I intend to wet sand the whole car down with 1500-2000 grit anyway. Since I painted outside I have some dust particles in the paint. That is the reasoning for needing to wet sand. Overall the paint is nice and smooth. After the wet sanding and a good polishing with a dull compound it will be perfect.

Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0797.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0797.jpg)

Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0798.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0798.jpg)

Click for larger image!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0799.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0799.jpg)

If anyone is wondering this is the paint I am using:

http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/ProductHighlights/PCC.aspx

It is Sherwin-Williams commercial coating sold by NAPA. It is made for industrial equipment so it should hold up really well.

I still have the drivers fender, rear bumper and a few other small items like mirrors to paint. Hopefully if the weather holds out I can knock them all out next weekend. "Supposed to rain here tomorrow".

CoreyB

09-26-2010, 01:18 AM

It looks good, however its just my opinion that you go with a high gloss paint job. You have done so much work restoring this car that it should look like it was restored properly. Not trying to be a dick its just mt opinion. You have done excellent work thus far.

BadHabit

09-26-2010, 11:17 AM

I am kinda liking the flat black look,may give it a shot on next go round.You did a fine job on that back drivers side bumper. When I painted outside,I would hose the area around the car down so it would cut down on the dust ,seems to help trap some of it.
All in all,helluva good job you are doing..Keep it up!
BH

DrGonzo

09-26-2010, 01:40 PM

I read about hosing down the ground to lower the dust. I heard it is not good to do when it's really hot out like it was yesterday. Seems that wetting the ground when it's hot can effect the paint as when it evaporates, the water vapor can get inside the paint stream when your shooting the paint and mess up the paint. I think I read that on CarCraft.com. I didn't want to take the chance of messing up all of the paint with it being 95 here yesterday.

@CoreyB: The restore part of the car is mainly the reconditioning and restoring of all componets, Suspension, Drivetrain, ETC. I love the look of the flat black ever since I saw Ryan's "Lawdogg" old car painted that color. I think the color is unique for this platform and will make for a nice aggressive looking Stealth, especially when I get the evil eye mod done to the hood.

DrGonzo

10-02-2010, 10:47 PM

So I was able to get some more painting done today. I got the roof painted, The drivers fender and both door handle assemblies. I started assembling things also and I am really liking the way the car is looking.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0800.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0800.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0804.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0804.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0806.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0806.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0807.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0807.jpg)

I am most likely going to have to respray the drivers side door. I did some wet sanding on it the other day and well, flat black is not something that can be wet sanded.... After about an hour of wet sanding through the different grits the paint was smooth but had a somewhat glossy look to it that I don't like. So looks like I am not going to be doing any wet sanding on this paint. I'll have to figure something out to smooth it out without glossing the paint. I might try and dry sand it. I have some painted panels to try a few things out on.

BadHabit

10-02-2010, 11:43 PM

That front end is going to look awesome..

Bob The Great

10-05-2010, 12:00 AM

Great work! I've got a 91 TT shell sitting in my garage that needs the same treatment, but I'm ashamed to say it's been there for a couple of years now and I've managed to do jack crap with it. :sad: Those pesky other hobbies keep getting in the way.

That'll be a beautiful car when you finish with it. Drive her well!

n2nsanity

10-05-2010, 04:26 PM

wow, that thing has come a long way
you should have your own tv show or something, lol

n2nsanity

10-06-2010, 12:30 AM

oh, and congrats on finding a new job, hope it's going well for you

n2nsanity

10-07-2010, 11:40 PM

DrGonzo

10-09-2010, 11:46 PM

Not to much going on with the project since I started working. I only have time to work on it on weekends now.

After trial and error I come to find out that I cannot sand "Wet or Dry" flat black paint! So all of the imperfections and roughness of the body panels I will just have to live with. I have to respray the drivers door and wing and finish painting a few odds and ends, I will most likely tackle them tomorrow.

Today was spent removing the transmission so I could cut the shield/plate that goes between the trans and engine. I had to cut out a small section out of the bottom of the shield for the output shaft to the transfer case. I also had to cut the flywheel cover shield also. I tried tracking down the correct shields but I got tired of waiting and I was not hearing back from people on prices. So I just modified the FWD shields I had. All of the drivetrain minus the first drive shaft is installed. Also got the clutch lines and slave mounted. I just now realized that the AWD trans does not use the damper that the FWD uses. This explains now why the mounts where all off. So I will most likely have to go out tomorrow and rebend a line and remove the damper from the system. Clutch is most likely going to be pretty heavy as I deleted the clutch vac assembly :)

I will also be breaking out the welder tomorrow so I can install the AEM UEGO Wideband O2 sensor in to the 3SX downpipe. I found a nice spot right on top of the collection point to weld the bung where it won't hit anything "fingers crossed". I am thinking that I will run open downpipe for a bit as I either need to modify the exhaust I built for the N/A or get one of those nice Concept Blue Ebay specials.

Tomorrow I will be running the pick up fluids, vacuum lines and hose for the power steering cooler. I hate the look of that stupid loop in the front so I am going to use an old ATX trans cooler and run that instead. In the future I plan on moving the oil cooler up from and plumbing it with Earl's lines so it will look good with two coolers up front along with the 2 14" fans I am mounting in front. Since I am not using a FMIC I got the fans to help with cooling and fill in the big void left by the 99 front bumper.

As for those Harbor Freight ties. Those are more for computer wire management. I would not trust those Velcro straps under the hood of my car!

BadHabit

10-10-2010, 04:57 PM

Damn,I hate that,I just emailed you about the shield...day late and a dollar short..that's me.

DrGonzo

10-10-2010, 07:22 PM

I was able to finish off some of the painting and in the process now I have to do more painting....:mad:

I used plastic to cover the car when I painted the door. Well it seems when I was mixing the paint that it slipped a little over the drivers fender. So I have a huge overspray spot on the driver side fender that I will now have to sand and respray the entire fender! I was so pissed...

The rear bumper got painted and installed also. Now with the rear end 90% completed the car is looking even better. I still have to respray the wing and finishing installing all of the hardware on it. It is only sitting on the car just for the photo.
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0814.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0814.jpg)

I am debating tinting the tail lights and reverse lights. I haven't decided yet.

I got the Wideband O2 installed and the downpipe is also installed. I also was able to finish up installing the last of the drivetrain pieces. So I said what the hell and put the new rims/tires on the car and finally got it off the jack stands.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0816.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0816.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0815.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0815.jpg)

I still have to put the rear rims/tires on. But I have other work to do on the back end. it still has no gas tank, rear brakes or sway bar links. I have all the parts just didn't want to mess with it when the front end was on the jack stands.

Until next weekend.......

n2nsanity

10-11-2010, 04:43 PM

for the wire management stuff, i meant mostly for the clips that look like spark plug wire separators.
maybe useful for interior or engine bay

car is looking great, i can't wait to see it in person

Austin@STM

10-11-2010, 07:16 PM

If you can get your hands on some flat clear, i think the tail lights would look really good flat, keep the red though.

Greg E

10-11-2010, 08:25 PM

If you can get your hands on some flat clear, i think the tail lights would look really good flat, keep the red though.

Was thinking the tail lights stood out too much too. Maybe some nite-shades over them or something...

DrGonzo

10-11-2010, 08:51 PM

I agree that the tail lights stand out to much. I think I will dust them with nightshades to flatten them out some. I did it on my other Stealth and they still had the red tint just no gloss.

kjzstealth

10-11-2010, 10:44 PM

I have never used nightshades, curious how it works

Austin@STM

10-12-2010, 12:05 PM

I have never used nightshades, curious how it works

On a flat car it would work out good, because its not very shiny. I hate it on glossy cars though, it just looks cheap because its dull. That why i used to paint tails with black basecoat then clearcoat. I would thin out the black 9 or 10:1 and then just spray on a few light coats, then clear, it would as shiny as the rest of the car that way, plus they would still light up very well.

Heres a pic of a set i did a couple years ago
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/z/jesse_tsi/4_21_jesse2.jpg

DrGonzo

10-12-2010, 01:29 PM

With nightshades it depends on how you spray it on. I have gotten it to spray on very glossy or dull. To get it glossy I had to do it in somewhat think coats/layers and then wet sand it after-wards. It comes out really nice but it does hinder the light output during the daytime. To do it dull you just spray from a greater distance and very light coat. That way the paint particles dry somewhat in the air. If you coat it to heavy it will gloss so the key with dull is light and hazy.

Hannibalzero

10-12-2010, 03:07 PM

Impressive. The paint looks like it is coming along nicely. That car looks a million times better than when you got it.

DrGonzo

11-01-2010, 08:25 PM

So the car is all back together "Minus some small parts" But I can't get it to start up now. The engine will crank just fine but won't fire up! Makes no sense as it ran fine in the FWD frame. I made no adjustments to the engine or any electronics/sensors. Even the damn engine wiring harness was swapped over!!!

I started a new thread for the engine issues. Hopefully I can get it running in the next week or so.....

http://www.3sgto.org/showthread.php?1994-Swapped-frames-and-now-it-won-t-freaking-run!!!!&p=33657#post33657

DrGonzo

11-09-2010, 08:45 PM

OK so here is what I have for updates so far!

I have been getting a few packages over the last couple of weeks. The first one I received was the underbody panels for the 99 front end and the top metal trim pieces. I am still missing one of the center panels for the 99 lip. I also found out that the wheel wells plastics are also not the same so I will have to hunt a set of those down also.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0822.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0822.JPG)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0823.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0823.JPG)

I also received a nice package courtesy of Austin at STM motor-sport:

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0825.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0825.JPG)

The hardline running from the tank to the fuel filter had been damaged prior to me getting the car. I tried to repar it with brass compression fittings without much success. So I got Austin to piece me together a -6AN fuel line kit to replace the hardline. I love the braided black lines and the black/silver fittings. I am going to have to order more of them to replace the blue/red fittings and SS braided line going to my fuel rails later on down the road. I also order one of there 14lbs sealed batteries as I am relocating the battery to behind the rear seats. Man that little battery has some juice! It lasted for about 30 cranks over 3 hours before I had to put it on the charger!

Last but not least is a sneak peak at the last item I got in today! It was a very big box and I will say just looking at the pieces I am seriously impressed with the construction and the quality of the materials. You can read about that in this thread:

http://www.3si.org/forum/f56/ebay-exhaust-review-g-blue-knockoff-must-read-508522/#post6075488

Here is a sneak peak of what I got in today:

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0826.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0826.JPG)

Austin@STM

11-09-2010, 09:18 PM

Glad your happy with the parts, let me know how that fuel line works out for you, if everything goes well i will add it to the website, if it needs any modifying let me know what you need different.

-Austin@STM

Woz

11-09-2010, 10:43 PM

Wow, your car looks like mine when I first got it, cept I had body panels :P Looking great tho!

n2nsanity

11-09-2010, 10:54 PM

if you need stock parts, i have a garage full of them, lol
i know 1st and 2nd gen splashguards aren't compatible, but not sure about 2nd and 3rd gens
anyway, i have 2nd gen splashguards, 3 sets of charcoal doorpanels in usable but not perfect condition
only an hour away if you need anything

DrGonzo

11-15-2010, 08:58 AM

It's Alive!!!!

I don't know what the hell I did but the car is finally running! It is running really rich right now as I need to get it properly tuned but I am just stoked that it is finally running.

Below is a video I made of the car running to show the ebay exhaust I bought:

Ignore the smoke the car is running really rich right now and it sat for some time in the cold weather... :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrNoPXYrOfM

BadHabit

11-15-2010, 09:39 AM

Damn...it sounds GOOD!

DrGonzo

11-22-2010, 12:41 PM

So I have been spending a lot of time latelty getting little things fixed here and there. I am having issues with the fuel pressure so I am waiting on a FuelLab FPR to come it. Spent a few hours yesterday trying to get my EBC to zero out. it has been driving me nuts as at idle it kept sawing I was at 20psi...WTF! I had to open it up and manually adjust the solenoid to zero it out. Now it is reading correctly.

Then to top it all off I come to find out that I am not boosting at all! I can here the turbos wind up but I am not building and boost. I believe I have a wastegate open causing back pressure and not building any boost. I have to dig into it and find out exactly what all is going on with it. I hope to have some time to tinker with it during my 4 day holiday break.

I also need to find out why the break pressure is crap! I know I have a frozen rear caliper and my assumption is that there is air caught in that rear line that I cannot bleed out. I need to swap it over and see.

Once all of the small issue are fixed I will take it out to get it inspected and hopefully registered.

TUFFTR

11-22-2010, 07:03 PM

Fuck that sounds tough as guts.

DrGonzo

11-29-2010, 04:51 PM

So time for some more updates!

@Austin - That tank to Filter kit worked perfectly! I didn't even have to use any of the mounts you sent me but they were nice to have. The whole install took about 30min including cutting out the old hardlines. I routed the new braided line right with the other fuel lines. Most of it is being held by the plastic cover that protects the hardlines. The rest I just zip-tied it to the hardlines.

The car is complete and running now. I have even gotten a chance to drive it around my neighborhood. I wish it didn't get dark so damn soon as I want to get some pics to post up here. I still have some things that need attention but for the most part it is done.

Here is a list of outstanding issues:

Oil Pressure gauge not reading - No signal from the sending unit "I probably wired it in wrong...Ooops" got to pull the dash :(
Having issues with the brakes - FIXED
HKS EVC 4 not working - REMOVED
Still need to finish the tuning with the SAFC
Small oil leaks on valve covers -FIXED
Evil Eye mod the hood
Light Smoke the tails
Complete the custom SS fuel setup - something like an oohnoo setup
Wire in additional cooling fans to Derail Controller
Find out why the damn horn is not working...FIXED-Somewhat!
Replace the alt/ac Upper pulley - Squeaking
Build the mount for the STM battery in the hatch
STM braided SS clutch line - on order
Maximal 5speed transfer case bracket - on order

Future plans:

PMP Hardpipe kit
Powdercoat intake mani, water neck and valve covers black
Replace Volt and Fuel pressure with AEM gauges
Eventually switch to the TT pistons and forged crank (currently 10:1)
Tint windows 40%
Some Other Secret Plans.... :)

lawdogg

11-30-2010, 11:47 AM

HKS EVC 4 not working - On the test drive it boosted up to 15psi even though I have it set at 7psi

Is the solenoid in right? I had this problem with my profec when I had the solenoid in backwards. :o

List looks good otherwise!

DrGonzo

11-30-2010, 12:13 PM

Yeah I checked it like 5 times to make sure everything was hooked up correctly. I think the solenoid may be bad as I was having issues with it reading correctly from day one until I opened it up and adjusted the trimmer resistor to get it to zero out correctly. That obviously told me that something was not right with the solenoid.

blackrob

12-01-2010, 01:07 PM

I have a question for you that you might be able to answer since you just did a ground up rebuild (or anyone else is welcome to chime in here). How much vacuum line did you use? Is there a one size fits all to replace the entire stock vacuum system? Thanks in advance.

DrGonzo

12-01-2010, 03:35 PM

No you will need both 4mm and 6mm vacuum line. I went to Autozone and just bought a package of both sizes. I had plenty 6mm left over as you use mostly the 4mm hose. I think each package had 6-10 feet in it.

DrGonzo

12-04-2010, 04:12 PM

So I got the brakes working today. Seems I had the Brake Booster vacuum hose backward! I am using an N/A hose as it is all I have available. with the N/A hose it looks correct either way you install it. Mine is sort of old s the arrows on the hose are worn off and that is why I missed it when I first installed it.

So after I nice drive around the neighborhood to test the brakes, I get back to the house and find the car is leaking oil....ARGHHHHH!!!!!

I jack it up and take a look. I noticed the rear valve cover was leaking really bad and though it was all coming from that. I pull it off, reseal it and go for another drive. Come back let the car sit and it's still leaking oil! So it is either the rear turbo return line or the oil pan. It is really going to be a never ending story with this car...LOL. I just have to get all of these things buttoned up as I can't get the car inspected until they are all fixed! I need more time to work on the car and with winter now here (Snowed today) and it getting dark before I get home I don't think I will ever get it done! :)

I also removed the HKS EVC4 and now it is running straight vacuum (6psi). The car runs great and pulls hard on my test drives!

J_Parker

12-04-2010, 04:29 PM

Just an idea here.... I absloloutly love the look of those tail lights with the flat black, how do you think they'd look on a 3/S?! http://verone.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p47572274-5.jpg

DrGonzo

12-05-2010, 08:10 PM

OK, here is today's update:

Brakes have been fixed! Issue was the brake booster vacuum hose was on the wrong way. I am using an N/A hose and it was kind of old so the arrows were worn off. The problem is with the N/A hose it looks correct either way you put it on. So I got lucky and it was an easy fix. Brakes are locking up perfectly

I have removed the HKS EVC as I am tired of trying to get the damn thing to work. I have the wastgates hooked directly up to vacuum so I will be tuning at 6psi until I can get another EBC. Considering the engine is 10:1 even at 6psi the car pulls really hard when the boost kicks in.

I fixed the valve cover leaks but I found another major oil leak. It looks to be the turbo return lines on the oil pan are leaking. I have new gaskets on the way and should have it buttoned up next weekend.

The horn issue seems to be that both stock horns are bad! Weird as it sounds it's true. All wiring checks out fine but the horns just don't work. I picked up a replacement PIAA low horn just to pass inspections.

Still have not gotten a chance to get any pic's. X-mas shopping has pretty much taken priority lately and I have to work on the car in short spurts...LOL!

n2nsanity

12-05-2010, 11:20 PM

good work. hope u get this thing on the road soon
i'd check on the crank seal too
i think i have 2 extra pairs of horns if u need

duke3k

12-11-2010, 12:49 PM

Wow - Greg . I'm stunned. I havent' been on 3SGTO in a while and I just caught up with your rebuild thread. You've done a really good job on your rebuild -but you don't need me to tell you that. Awesome job man. You've put a crapload of work into it and it shows.

Duke

DrGonzo

12-11-2010, 01:28 PM

Thanks Duke!

I was actually out there in the rain and cold installing new PIAA Horns and the Fuel Lab FPR I just got in. It solved my low fuel pressure problems and most likely the issue I was having with the car running lean! I have yet to start it back up as the battery is on charge. I'm going to start it up in the next hour and start dialing in the settings as my Palm is now working again. I can set some base stuff but I have yet to get the car registered so I can't really drive it. Plus I have a small oil leak from the rear turbo return line.. I was hoping to fix the small oil leak today but I might not be able to fix it till tomorrow depending on the weather.

Primus101

12-11-2010, 03:04 PM

Hey Greg,
I think the most common leak issue with those return lines/pan is that the bolts run right through the pan and need to be sealed as well.
Cheers

DrGonzo

12-11-2010, 07:57 PM

Well when I initially installed the lines I just used high temp silicone to seal them to the pan. I have the correct gaskets now and will try to tackle them tomorrow. I just hope that's where the leak is!

After that I have to figure out what the hell is going on with the palm. I tries to hook it up and I keep getting a "serial comm error" which means it is not reading the ECU. i just got a new logger cable as I was having the same issue with my other cable and figured it was just bad. I hope the ODB1 port is actually sending out the signal from the ECU. Just something else on the list I have to look at.

DrGonzo

12-31-2010, 05:27 PM

So the weather was really nice out today so I decided to mess with the car a little. I didn't get to fix the oil leak yet. I might try to look at it tomorrow as it should be nice outside tomorrow also. I have found that the ecu is not sending out a diagnostic signal. I checked all the wiring even hooked the Multimeter directly to the ECU and nothing. I am most likely going to have to send it off to get repaired. I had money set aside to get the Dejon BlowThru Y-pipe but I guess that will have to wait. Maybe the ECU issues also explains the high idle RPM's that I have yet to figure out...LOL

I know a bunch of you have been wanting some updated picture also so here ya go!

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0870.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0870.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0872.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0872.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0873.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0873.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0874.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0874.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0875.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0875.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0876.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0876.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0877.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0877.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0878.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0878.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0879.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0879.jpg)

I still need to do the evil eye mod on the hood. That is the reason I have not yet painted it. it;s also the reason my the turn signals, lights and fenders are still out of alignment. Not going to mess with lining everything up until I do the evil eye mod.

BadHabit

12-31-2010, 05:50 PM

One helluva Job,you should be proud!! That is gonna be a mean looking ride.I am really impressed with the quality of your work.That is how it ought to be done!
BH

UTRacerX9

12-31-2010, 06:20 PM

Not feeling the flat black paint job, just not my thing, but major props to you on a VERY nice restore job!

Austin@STM

12-31-2010, 07:11 PM

Car came out great! Congrats, and good work so far.

DocWalt

12-31-2010, 07:24 PM

Congrats on the save. I read through this thread before you got it all painted up, and it looked pretty decent then too, lol.

blackrob

01-01-2011, 05:58 PM

I can't wait til I get to see this ride out in the wild one day. :D Looks great!

J_Parker

01-06-2011, 03:30 PM

Looks great Greg. Keep up the awesome work! What are your plans for the hood, just keeping it evil eye? Are you going to do a splitter on the bottom of your bumper at all?

DrGonzo

01-06-2011, 09:34 PM

No Splitter! I have all brand new 99 underside panels with the built in lip. No plans for the hood either, just the evil eye mod.

DrGonzo

02-01-2011, 06:23 PM

Well I guess I should update this thread considering it has been awhile!

I finally got the car inspected and registered. The inspection was a pain, the only shop close to me was being jerks. the car is not supposed to have emission inspections due to it's age but the guys gave me a hard time cause I have the EGR system removed. Also tried to tell me I didn't have mufflers on the car! WHAT!!! Then explain those huge canisters sticking out the back! Guy was an idiot.

Well I spent some time tracking down emissions parts. I got the EGR, EGR pipe and Cat installed. I took the EGR valve and pipe to my polisher and man do they shine up nice :)
I basically bolted the EGR parts to the block off plates...HE he he. and rigged up some vacuum lines. the cat I got was from an N/A so it didn't quite bolt on. i had to widen the holes on the cat going to the DP as the N/A cat is 3"out 2.5" in. I got it bolted up and it sealed Now remember the Cat is only to pass inspections. i drover the car there and back and thats it. I and pulling the Cat back off this weekend in place of the test pipe. I get up to the shop for inspections and the guys stalled out the car three times trying to get it on the lift. i finally told them that I would drive it on. 10 min latter I got the all good... Yeah!!!

The weather is starting to get nicer out so I have had some time to get some minor things done. I purchased a blasting cabinet and a 6" polisher. I got a couple throttle bodies that I have bead blasted and rebuilt. I ran them over the polisher to really clean them up. Not a mirror shine just a really nice clean look. Also have some fuel rails that I am polishing. That blasting cabinet is wonderful! I just need a larger compressor not. I am also in the process of blasting a valve cover to send out to Terry to get it powder coated the stock black.

I still have a couple dozen parts to install. most are brand new interior pieces to replace the ones falling apart. I installed a TurboXS Knock light into the stock gauge bezel. It replaced the two light switches for the pop-ups and fog-lights. It really looks great. I still have to install it and wire it up. i'll get some pics when I do.

Most of my time was spent trying to trouble shoot the issue with my logger not wanting to connect. I tested everything and came to the conclusion that the ECU was not sending out a signal. So I got a new rebuilt ECU from Eric"rymer21280". Got it installed and still nothing. i got worried that would need to start pulling wires to find the issue. Eric has been great and offered to look at my cables. So I sent them out and indeed they were bad. He fixed the problem and sent them back. I should have them by weeks end. I will finally be able to drive the car and get the SAFC tuned in properly. I really excited about this weekend.

I also decided to swap out the 99 turns for a set of Stealth turns. The bubble on the 99's just didn't look right to me. It real through the front end of the car off. I am going to me modifying the Stealth turns so that they don't have the gaps at the corners. I'm going to try fill in the gap on the turn with epoxy and sand them down to fit. i might need to play with different epoxies to make sure they are solid. Should be to hard to get them to look correct.

The largest part of the project that needs to be completed is the evil eye mod. Now that the weather is starting to get better out I may try to tackle the welding and body work in the next couple of weeks. I will still have to wait until the temp gets above 60-65 before I paint the hood but I hope that by the time I get the work done on the hood it will be nice enough out to paint.

I'll get some more recent pictures up in the next couple of days.

HilbillyHomeboy

02-01-2011, 08:34 PM

What an awesome project, killer work! Definitely want to see some recent pics. :)

Jeremy

DrGonzo

02-02-2011, 09:40 PM

Ok here are the pics I promised including some of the parts I got installed today!

<--- Click on Images for High Res Photos --->

TurboXS Knock Light mounted in the gauge bezel
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0883.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0883.JPG)
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0886.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0886.JPG)

Some carbon fiber parts I was waiting on finally showed up today. They look great and fit perfectly!

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0889.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0889.JPG)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0890.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0890.JPG)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0891.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0891.JPG)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0892.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0892.JPG)

Carbon fiber fuel door. This is a stock fuel door with real carbon fiber laid over the top not some stupid sticker. An A+++ job!!!

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0898.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0898.JPG)

The engine is complete for the most part. I have some parts to swap out for other polished items.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0893.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0893.JPG)

Electronics are complete. I still need to paint the radio bezel and swap out the two lower gauges with AEM gauges. For the time they are all operational.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0901.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0901.JPG)

New STM gel battery mounted behind the rear seat.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0902.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0902.JPG)

HilbillyHomeboy

02-03-2011, 09:37 AM

Really nice work, everything looks fantastic!

Jeremy

DrGonzo

02-04-2011, 10:09 AM

Thanks!

So I got my logger cables fixed so I can finally do some logging runs. I hooked it up last night to test it out and got 5 CEL codes right off the bat "Guess my CEL bulb is blown out" 2 of them I can ignore as they were egt related stuff. Right off the bat I noticed that the rear o2 sensor is dead as it's not cycling. guess this explains why the fuel has been all out of wack! Timing is also way off.

I have my AEM wideband hooked up to the ECU EGT input and it is logging correctly on the logger. When I exported my files off the Palm to Excel the WBO1 numbers are now all screwed up. They are all temp settings in the 400deg. Guess it was a conversion problem using MMCD tools. Anyone else had this type of issue?

Here is the short log of the car in neutral and some engine revs. The engine has solid mounts so the knock is a little off.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/2011-02-03_19_31_47.xlsx

YoshiBishi

02-08-2011, 06:48 PM

Did you say you were located in Raleigh? I'd love to come check out the car in person or help out!

green-lantern

02-08-2011, 07:14 PM

Really awesome, can't wait to see it in person.

DrGonzo

02-08-2011, 07:14 PM

I live in Clayton about 10-15 min South of Raleigh right off of 70. I'm usually working on the car during the weekends if the weather allows it. PM me if you want to swing by sometime.

MightyMouse

02-09-2011, 12:09 AM

DrGonzo

02-09-2011, 06:50 AM

Great job on the rebuild/rebirth of this car... Curious how the timing is off on a 93 though.. The sensors are supposed to prevent this, aren't they? Anyway.. I'm not sure what you have to do to fix the timing, but fixing the rear O2 should help out the fueling problems..

Congrats on the passed inspection and registration as well.. Great great work!..

The car is a 93 but the engine is an N/A converted TT from a 92 with wiring harness and ECU from a 92. So I have the adjustable CAS. I have already replaced the rear O2, I am going to do the front one along with the knock sensor as I'm sure they are due.

YoshiBishi

02-09-2011, 12:34 PM

Geez, That is too much work for me! I would have waited until I found a 93 TT engine with a 93 ecu. Then again, I wouldn't be trying to resurrect a car either...

DrGonzo

02-09-2011, 01:17 PM

Actualy it was not that hard. My other car was a 92 FWD TT that I had been working on for years and just never got it on the road. I pulled the engine out of it and transplanted it into the 93 frame. The 92 harness and ECU was just a straight swap as everything plugs right in. No wires to splices or anything. With both cars pretty much completely apart it makes things like swapping out harnesses simple! :)

Plus I like the fact that on the 92 I have the adjustable CAS.

MightyMouse

02-09-2011, 03:41 PM

Don't lie.. It's a lot of work..
I think it's just easier to deal with vs upgrades + ripping a car apart and then putting it back together..
Next time I will be doing a straight restore from top to bottom with all stock parts.. No more of this "forced upgrades" crap..

DrGonzo

02-09-2011, 03:47 PM

Yeah... I admit it was a pain doing it all by myself. I had my Fiancée come out and help me a few times, like when I had to drop the engine back in. In the end I'm glad I did it all by myself. I now know every part on the car and if something breaks I know that either it was an old crappy part that I should have replaced to begin with or I didn't do something right!

Now I can only blame myself it something breaks...LOL

YoshiBishi

02-09-2011, 04:32 PM

I'll be stopping by tomorrow for a full engine rebuild then :lol7:.

DrGonzo

02-13-2011, 09:44 PM

UPDATE TIME!

So I have a long list of items that either need to be fixed or installed. So here is what I have completed:

I switched from 99 Turns to Stealth turns. Using epoxy I filled in the holes that are in the corners of the Stealth turns cause of them being rounded. I got them about 90% complete. I have to finish aligning the panels and bumper before I can get them finalized.

The passenger door switches now have the LED modification done to them so they light up just like the drivers door.

Finally got around to replacing the squeaky Accessory pulley that has been driving me nuts to find out there is something else squeaking too!

Wrapped the front and rear stock IC hard pipes in Header wrap. Since the IC pipe in front is the cold side and it runs right above the front Turbo I needed to protect it from heating up. Same idea in the rear. "I'll get some pics in the next day or so.

Hallman boost controller has finally been installed. Still sitting on 6psi until I can get the car running stable.

Finished installing the 99 front lip. Those stupid stock plastic push clips are shit! I guess when I was out test driving the car the damn things fell out. This caused the Pass underside panel and lip to come loose. The lip wedged in between the center under panel and the pass under panel forcing the pass under panel to drop down. Well the road did a nice job of grinding away the plastic lip on the pass panel. I found this out today working on the car and noticed it was handing down. Went out and used some self-tapping SS screws to secure all of the underside panels in place as I don't trust those damn plastic push clips. I paid almost $200.00 for all the 99 underside panels from Mitsu just to have some POS plastic clip fail and now one of them is ruined!!!! I'm so pissed out that. :(

I got the Knock light installed in the center gauge bezel and all wired in. It works great but it is hard to see during the day due to it's placement. I am most likely going to move it someplace where it is highly visible at all times.

Yesterday I spent the whole day in my little shop sand blasting a TT throttle body, upper intake manifold and front valve cover. The throttle body just needed a good cleaning and rebuild as the N/A one I was using was having idling issues "FIAV Valve". The intake mani and valve cover were blasted down to bare metal so I could repaint them a low gloss black. I though it was going to take me a month to blast them all as my damn compressor for some reason couldn't regulate the pressure correctly. After about two hours I realized that the water separator was what was causing all of the pressure drop issues. After removing it I had all of the pressure in the word and the blaster was cutting right through the old paint. I also got a chance to install the 3SX stud kit I had sitting around. The kit makes it really easy to align and attach parts. I still need to install the studs in the water neck but I'll mess with that when it comes time to redo the water housing.

Here are the pics I have of the upper intake and throttle body with the stud kit installed. The EGR vavle is just attached for show as I have to have it on there for NC visual inspections. it is just bolted to the block off plate... :)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0929.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0929.JPG)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0931.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0931.JPG)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_DSCF0932.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/DSCF0932.JPG)

I still have a long list of items to finish off. First thing is I need to do a pressure test. When I test drove the car today it would buckle really bad under acceleration which points to a boost leak somewhere. I also found another oil leak which looks to be coming from the front oil return line. I think I am going to replace the stock oil return lines with AN lines/fittings as the stock ones are starting to piss me off with them leaking all the damn time.

With the weather slowly getting warmer again I will most likely start on the Evil Eye mod on my other spare hood but I'll still have to wait for it to get above 70deg outside before I can paint it. Should give me enough time to get the Evil Eye mod completed and ready for paint.

n2nsanity

02-14-2011, 05:11 AM

that plenum looks sick

YoshiBishi

02-14-2011, 04:16 PM

I'd love to see the evil eye mod. Good luck!

n2nsanity

02-19-2011, 08:12 PM

If you don't mind me asking, how much have you spent on this project so far? At least the shell was free :P
I'm finding myself spending way way more than I ever anticipated on mine. Even being as froogle as possible with every single part and doing all my own work, I'm still looking at over $3k :(

J_Parker

02-19-2011, 09:10 PM

Can't wait to see how you do the evil eye mod! Once again you're doing a great job on all this, keep it up man :)

DrGonzo

02-21-2011, 08:54 AM

Evil Eye mod completed!

You can see all of the details in this thread:

http://www.3sgto.org/f20/evil-eye-mod-3786.html

@n2nsanity - I am probably well over the$4k mark by now and that was using 90% of the parts from the 92 R/T donor car. That fact that I am able to build the car that I want and do it all by myself is what makes it worth it to me.

YoshiBishi

02-21-2011, 10:10 AM

I wish I had your talent Gonzo, let's see that car on the road!

n2nsanity

02-21-2011, 07:51 PM

oh its definitely worth it. i may never have another big project again, so i'm definitely enjoying this one. it's good peace of mind knowing what every little part is and where it came from and that it was properly installed.
your project has been an inspiration to me and has given me a few great ideas.

DrGonzo

03-14-2011, 03:31 PM

Update time!

So a couple weeks ago Jared "StealthLabel" was over to get some fuel work done. I pulled off my Blue fuel rail adapters to switch for his silver ones. Well right when I pulled off the timing belt cover the belt slipped!!! I am so thankfully that it happened with the car not running.

I ordered the Gates 60k kit from IPS and got it in about 4-5 days "Thanks IPS" The gates kit is all Gates parts but uses an OEM Mitsu Tensioner. I have used these kits for some time and I trust them completely and never had an issue with them before.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_IMG_0179.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_0179.jpg)

old water pump and the new Gates one

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_IMG_0180.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_0180.jpg)

All installed:

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_IMG_0182.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_0182.jpg)

3SX Stud kit installed for the fuel rails. These are great and I don't have to worry about loosing the black rail spacers!
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_IMG_0183.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_0183.jpg)

Polished fuel rail installed along with fresh painted/shaved front valve cover:
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_IMG_0184.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_0184.jpg)

Engine as it stands:

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_IMG_0186.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_0186.jpg)

DrGonzo

03-14-2011, 03:32 PM

I also ordered and installed the new Prosport EVO digital gauges.

You can find the info on those in this thread:
http://www.3sgto.org/f13/new-evo-gauges-installed-4100.html

The weather finally started to play nice so I started prepping the hood for paint since the Evil Eye mod was complete. Lots of rock chips and paint peeling so I had to do a lot of sanding and glazing to get everything smooth.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_IMG_0189.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_0189.jpg)

Hood completely painted! I now have an all black car...Yea!

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_HoodPaint3.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/HoodPaint3.JPG)

Somehow I missed grinding down some of the welds for the Evil Eye all the way so they are showing after I painted it. Guess I missed them when block sanding the hood. Black shows all imperfections!!!

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_HoodPaint4.JPG (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/HoodPaint4.JPG)

I also have a lovely 2nd Gen R/T bumper that will be getting installed after I get it preped/painted"Thanks Jared"

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_IMG_0190.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_0190.jpg)

here are some of the other items I got installed over the last couple of weekends.

3sx Pedals
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_IMG_0193.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_0193.jpg)

WB moved to Single Pillar pod as the EVO EGT gauges is now in the radio gauge spot. Also moved the knock light out of the center guages bezel as it was being blocked by the steering wheel and hard to read. Now I can plainly seeing it when driving in it's new location.
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_IMG_0194.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_0194.jpg)

Fuel system completed including polished FPR bracket. Still have a few blue fittings to swap out but over all it's complete.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_IMG_0198.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_0198.jpg)

And fuel rail side with all braided lines and black/silver fittings courtesy of STM motorsports.
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_IMG_0199.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_0199.jpg)

YoshiBishi

03-14-2011, 03:52 PM

That hood looks great! I'm glad you found your 60k parts. UPS found my wheels too :)!

HilbillyHomeboy

03-14-2011, 05:18 PM

Very nice, it just keeps getting better! 2G R/T rear bumper, hooray! Best one there is. :)

Jeremy

Boomer3000

03-14-2011, 07:47 PM

Can I ask about your upper plenum and valve cover.. They look great, just wondering how you did them as they dont look powder coated.. but instead flat black almost like a rattle can(except way way better) if you dont feel like discussing here throw me a pm.

DrGonzo

03-14-2011, 07:59 PM

Rattle can paint job FTW!!

It's all in the prep work. Both part went through my blasting cabinet with 120grit glass beads The I finish sanded then smooth with a 220grit. Wiped everything down with acetone and sprayed on a light first coat then sanded and repeat until I had a good 4-5 coats I used high temp low gloss black on both of them.

Almost all of the parts on the car went through the blasting cabinet for cleaning and some got painted after wards. If it was a small cheap part it most likely got replaced. Not to many things under the hood are going to be shiny. I'm looking for Stealth look not bling!

J_Parker

03-14-2011, 09:42 PM

Looks great man, very "mean" looking car :D

Boomer3000

03-14-2011, 10:32 PM

CoopKill

03-14-2011, 11:10 PM

Man you are going all out!

Let me know what you think of the pedal. Been looking at them for a year, and not pulled the trigger.

TooFast4Radar

03-15-2011, 10:27 PM

lawdogg

03-15-2011, 10:49 PM

Hey man love your progress. Looks awesome! Any more thoughts along the rims lines?

n2nsanity

04-06-2011, 04:03 AM

looks good in person too
btw, i still want your old spark plug cover :)

durtycheez

06-07-2011, 03:47 PM

This is an amazing rebuild thread. Thank you for posting it!

BigTyla

06-08-2011, 04:41 PM

Impressive build. It looks like you're going with some ideas I'm having for my Talon, particularly the color. I've decided to go satin black on mine instead of flat for a slightly more glossy finish.

Where did you get your blasting cabinet? I was thinking of picking one up from Harbor Freight.

DrGonzo

06-08-2011, 05:03 PM

Thanks...

Picked it up from HF. If you do get one make sure you go in and reseal all of the seals. They don't seal it very well and it creates a lot of dust. I had to empty mine and re-seal it.

DrGonzo

02-27-2012, 11:08 AM

OK Well it's been long enough so I guess it's time for some updates.....

Car has been running great. I DD it 2-3 times a week if the weather holds out. I have been knocking out a lot of side projects that I have been wanting to get done. So here we go....

I got tired of seeing my Turbo timer attached to the main gauge cluster. Awhile back I saw a thread where shooter molded his timer into his main gauge cluster. So I decided to tackle the idea with nothing more than a picture of his final product. Well it took me a about a week to knock this out but I love the way it came out. The control button had to be removed from the Timer circuit board. The legs on the button where too short to successfully re-solder on new wires. So I found a new one online from Mouser.com and ordered two "One as a spare". I used CAT 5 cable as I needed to be able to disconnect it from the main gauge cluster. The control button is molded into the spot where the pop-up light switch used to be.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_timer1.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/timer1.jpg)

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_timer2.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/timer2.jpg)

I also molded my SAFC2 into the center vent piece. The left side vent was broken so I molded a cup to house it from fiberglass and then molded the cup to the dash. it is really nice having a spare dash to mock everything up on. This way it I ruin the dash in any way it's no loss. I'll have top hunt down the pictures as I can't find them in my photo gallery right now.

This past weekend I tackled installing my FMIC, changing out my Oil Cooler Lines and replacing a squeaking pulley....

The FMIC is a CX racing kit. Granted I am only on 9b's I was still having issues with heat soak most likely due to the fact that the Pistons are still 10:1. I picked this kit up used and spent about a week in the shed polishing the pipes.Then I spent another two weeks awaiting parts as I wanted to have black couplers and all new SS t-bolt clamps. I ordered all couplers and clamps from siliconeintakes.com.

So I got the front bumper off and realized how tight the space was going to be. I use the front 99 tank as my Meth tank so I didn't want to loose it.
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_1%7E0.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/1%7E0.jpg)

I used my dremel and cut out the opening in the front bumper. Found out how bad the rock chips were so I'm going to have to re-spray it this summer.
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_1%7E0.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/1%7E0.jpg)

Remounted the bumper to mark the crash bar to be cut. I was originally only going to cut out the part marked but decided it would be too complicated with the tools I had..
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_4%7E0.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/4%7E0.jpg)

I then started to install the upper hard pipes. I love the way these look with the black couplers......
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_5%7E0.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/5%7E0.jpg)
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_6%7E0.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/6%7E0.jpg)

Test fitting the front mount. I was able to save the 99 coolant tank. I just had to switch how it mounted from the underside to top mounted on the radiator support.
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_7.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/7.jpg)

View of the new SS oil cooler lines. One of my lines had a really bad kink in it so they needed to be replaced for some time now. Had to get creative with the line routing in order to clear the Y-pipe. Oil cooler is not in the stock location. I had to move it down and back about an inch and drill/tap new holes.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_9.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/9.jpg)
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/normal_10.jpg (http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/10.jpg)