Alternator: U.S. vs CA

[DeadOhioSky39]

I need a new alternator and I was looking at AutoZones website and they list a U.S. one at 90 amps and a Canadian one at 110 amps. What's the deal with that? I would think they would all be the same. I have a sub and at night with the lights on and the music going while sitting at a light, you can see the Battery gauge needle dipping with the music and the gauge lights dimming. So.....I was thinking if they mounted up the same and it wouldn't hurt anything, I would splurge the extra 10 bucks for the Canadian model. Would this work or cause any problems? Here's the link http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1991-Dodge-Stealth/Alternator/_/N-itgclZ9ci9i

It is a 1991 Dodge Stealth SOHC

[stealthee]

I remember a thread from a long time ago on the other site. A DOHC alt is 110 amp, while a SOHC is 90 amp. The thing is it was learned that a DOHC alt can bolt right up to a SOHC.

That being said, its still not going to stop the voltage drops and subsequent gauge dimming from the sub and amp.

[2fnloud]

Have you upgraded the car's grounds..this can make a HUGE difference in aftermarket car stereos.

[DeadOhioSky39]

Thanks for the input guys. I'll save the extra bucks and just get the regular alternator. 2fnloud: No i haven't upgraded the grounds. The dimming gauge lights and all that isn't really a huge deal to me. I just figured since the alternator is going out anyways, if the Canada model would make a difference then I would go that route.

[2fnloud]

I would start by upgrading all your grounds with the same gauge wire that you have running back to power your amplifier(s).

[Maximal]

Well it's not going to hurt going with the larger one for sure. I do agree to check the grounds. My lights dim a bit with just a turn signal and I'm sure adding a couple more grounds (I think I only have a couple iirc) would help a ton.

[2fnloud]

Grounding kits are just another scam , they don't work.

Steve

You Sir know nothing about car audio, because in car audio a updated ground system makes a HUGE difference.

Did you even read why the OP was wanting a larger alternator?

If this wasn't car audio related I would agree with you. Because unlike those kits you are referencing, a ground upgrade in car audio is taking at least the same GA wire as what was run back to the amp(s) and adding these connections:

1: From battery to chassis
2: From battery to engine block
3: From engine block to chassis

It is what car audio installers call " the big three". I suggest you read up on it if you are unfamiliar with it before you argue with me about it.

[stealthee]

Grounding kits are just another scam , they don't work.

Steve

Ground kits have been proven to help in certain applications. The only thing you have proven is that you are an idiot who seems to have no real knowledge whatsoever.

[Mike-92RT]

Canada FTW!!

[DeadOhioSky39]

The alternator needs to be replaced regardless of the audio stuff. I was just thinking if it made a difference that I would go ahead and get the higher amps. I just wasn't sure if it would bolt right up and not damage anything.

[DeadOhioSky39]

Ok, next question. Got the alternator loose and the wires off of it. How the heck do i get it out of the car? I don't know how you turbo guys work on these things as cramped as it is. I've tried turning it every which way i can. There is no way it is going out the top. It looks like it needs to go out the drivers side wheel well. Is there something else i need to take off to get it out?

[stealthee]

One thing to remember. The DOHC guys have their alternator mounted all the way on top.

For the SOHC it takes several twists and turns to get it out. I was able to get mine out the top by twisting it the right way. Others end up frustrated and end up removing the drivers axle to get it out.

[DeadOhioSky39]

Awesome, I got it out the top like you suggested. Thanks Stealthee. You always have answers to my SOHC questions. Now to take it in and pick up the new one and the fun of getting the new one wedged back in.

[mk_]

It'll go in a lot easier. Took me forever to get it out from up top, but eventually turned the right way and boop, it was out. Took like 2 minutes to get back in and ready to mount.

[Hans@GZP]

Canadian models have day time running lights, hence the higher output alternators. All twin turbo models have the 110 amp alt, some non-turbos as well. Other DOHC non-turbos have 90-95 amp alternators.

I believe all US spec SOHC alts are 90 amp.

[BigBoris]

Is there another choice for aftermarket that has around 140-180 amps?

[BigBoris]

I found some other choices. From what I hear many 3/S owners that have used autozone alternators end up going through them once a year. They say OEM is worth the money. I am considering one of the following...

Mitsubishi 3000GT High Output Alternator (http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=271)

After reading a bit, I think this would be the best choice...

C3Motorsports - 3000GT/Stealth, Corvette, Mustang, Camaro, Charger, Performance Auto Supply Car Parts & More! - Mechman High Output Alternator (http://c3motorsports.com/3000GT/Stealth/Electronics/Mechman-High-Output-Alternator/prod_261.html)

[2fnloud]

On the alternators that C3Motorsports is selling, I noticed that "mech" is in the part number, this would make me think that mechman makes the alternator. In the car audio realm, his product has quality control issues.

Also ALWAYS find out what the alternator will do at idle, most places will build an alt to H/O but it would be near ZERO output at idle. Some will even put a smaller pulley on the alternator so it spins faster then OEM to help give that extra amps.

[DeadOhioSky39]

So far I've noticed my AutoZone alternator doesn't seem to put out as much at idle as the old one did when it was working. With high beams on and the heater running it will be right at 12 Volts on the gauge. As soon as you start moving it picks right back up so I'm not too worried about it. At least it charges which the last one quit doing.

[Dbeltran24]

The pulley is different on the DOHC vs the SOHC alternator. I beleive te DOHC is a 6 rib pulley and the SOHC is a 5 rib pulley.

Side not, I have the same dimming issue. This topic has come up many times recently on the other site. I can tell you from my experience, that you may be buying a few alternators before you find one that works properly. The companies remanufacturing our alternators are doing a piss poor job. I have had and still have the dimming problem. I have gone through 8 alternators. All worked when installed, then shortly after stopped working properly. All have been tested. I have upgraded ground wires, this did not help (this problem). I also replaced the fusible link and all wires that go from the alternator to the fusible link and to the battery. I've even replaced the battery. Yet the problem still isn't fixed. My current alternator atleast is working better than the rest, but not how it should be. Other forum members stated that the problem did not go away until they got a alternator that worked how it should. Some people it only took 3 to 5 alternators before they got a good one. I'm on number 8 and still no luck. This one is staying in there until I can source a new non-remanufactured alternator.

Hope this helps.

[mk_]

I have a 200 amp HO alternator sitting in my basement back home. Worked for me fine for 3 years. Took it out when I got rid of my Stealth. Visually, it looks like it was used for 3 years through the heart of NY winter (it was) but never failed me. Best purchase I made for my car! I could have someone snap some pics of it if anyone was interested. My car was a SOHC, alternator that was sent was for a DOHC engine but fit perfectly for my SOHC as promised when I purchased it. It was bought from Excessive Amperage.

My car was audio-centric so it certainly was put to the test and passed with flying colors. If the rest of your electrical is up to snuff, no reason it wouldn't work the same.

Just throwing it out there!
Michael

[BigBoris]

I'm considering a HO alternator in my near future as I plan on getting some Amps. Although I am going to get a good size Cap to avoid issues I still want something that's going to handle the job. Everything works better when there isn't a source shortage of electrical power. Considering this; if the lights dim now with just a basic Head Unit that means my ECU and other components aren't getting the amount they need to run effectively.

[mk_]

HO Alt, Proper size/amount wiring, Battery bank if needed. Ditch the capacitor.

[DeadOhioSky39]

I'm not sure what he meant by ditch the cap but I can say that after i got rid of mine everything seemed to work better and I haven't looked back. I don't sit at traffic lights jamming out on rap tunes or anything so this has nothing to do with my problems. But I've noticed things have worked out a lot better without the cap. I would recommend hooking everything up and seeing how you like it before you splurge for a capacitor. They seem to be hit or miss in the audio community anyways.

The audio equipment wasn't my original issue in all of this anyways. I just randomly noticed that my battery gauge was stupid low and the alternator wasn't charging and thought if the higher Canadian output alternator was better then i would go that route. I can't say if a capacitor would help much. Mine is a 1 Farad but I didn't notice a difference when using or not using it.

[BigBoris]

Yeah, well 1 Farad isn't much... It's at best good for a 250 Watts RMS amp. If you have a 1000 WATT RMS you need at least 4 Farad 6 to be safe. I plan on getting one and properly installing it to get the full benefit. They do ALWAYS work if its in good operating conditions. In my case I don't jam out on rap but I do listen to music that is base intensive so I know it's going to draw a lot of power. I'll most likely go with a 6 to 10 Farad Cap by a reputable company like Rockford Fasgate. I used to install car audio for a few shops in West Covina, people would buy huge amps and subs that draw 1500 watts per sub and then wonder why the base would distort and the lights would dim or in some cases the amps would just shut off when the base gets intense. Every time I installed the cap it stabilized the power to the amps and helped clear distortion since the amps had consistent power.

[2fnloud]

capacitors DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT

(see a pattern here)

help a car's electrical system supply wattage.

[tazman]

The pulley is different on the DOHC vs the SOHC alternator. I beleive te DOHC is a 6 rib pulley and the SOHC is a 5 rib pulley.

Side not, I have the same dimming issue. This topic has come up many times recently on the other site. I can tell you from my experience, that you may be buying a few alternators before you find one that works properly. The companies remanufacturing our alternators are doing a piss poor job. I have had and still have the dimming problem. I have gone through 8 alternators. All worked when installed, then shortly after stopped working properly. All have been tested. I have upgraded ground wires, this did not help (this problem). I also replaced the fusible link and all wires that go from the alternator to the fusible link and to the battery. I've even replaced the battery. Yet the problem still isn't fixed. My current alternator atleast is working better than the rest, but not how it should be. Other forum members stated that the problem did not go away until they got a alternator that worked how it should. Some people it only took 3 to 5 alternators before they got a good one. I'm on number 8 and still no luck. This one is staying in there until I can source a new non-remanufactured alternator.

Hope this helps.

I went through a few alternators (Autozone/Kragen/O'Reilly) and ended buying an OEM one. Haven't had any issues with it (yet).

[BigBoris]

capacitors DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT

(see a pattern here)

help a car's electrical system supply wattage.

You are correct, They DO NOT help a car's electrical system supply wattage. They help stabilize amperage being drawn from the battery. Capacitors are used to store energy for the amplifier to draw on demand. They come in many different sizes ranging from 0.5 farad to well over 100 farads and their intended function is to temporarily cover the short-burst electrical demands of a car audio system that have exceeded the general electrical capabilities of the vehicle. There is little evidence to suggest they impart any benefit to the system, however, due to their low energy storage (compared with the battery) and exponential nature of capacitor voltage decay.

[2fnloud]

Yes they do, but they only stabilize it for milliseconds, after that it just becomes "Another mouth to feed" and the electrical system is trying to supply power to one more thing.

Capacitors are for when you have done everything else to the electrical to PROPERLY supply power to your equipment and you want the absolute most from the car's electrical system.

Kinda like adding plenum and throttle body spacers on our car's, does it help? Yes. Is there better things to be spending you money on to make more HP out of the engine? Most definitely.

Here, read this thread (http://www.3sgto.org/f21/why-capacitors-do-not-work-3347.html) I started, I really like "link 4". It is about a car audio's personal testing with capacitors. I think his results should end the debate...of course it won't

[stealthee]

Yes they do, but they only stabilize it for milliseconds, after that it just becomes "Another mouth to feed" and the electrical system is trying to supply power to one more thing.

Capacitors are for when you have done everything else to the electrical to PROPERLY supply power to your equipment and you want the absolute most from the car's electrical system.

Kinda like adding plenum and throttle body spacers on our car's, does it help? Yes. Is there better things to be spending you money on to make more HP out of the engine? Most definitely.

Here, read this thread (http://www.3sgto.org/f21/why-capacitors-do-not-work-3347.html) I started, I really like "link 4". It is about a car audio's personal testing with capacitors. I think his results should end the debate...of course it won't

Excellent post. A cap is nothing more than an additional battery for the alternator to feed. Its more of a draw on the electrical system than a help.

[mk_]

I'm not sure what he meant by ditch the cap but I can say that after i got rid of mine everything seemed to work better and I haven't looked back. I don't sit at traffic lights jamming out on rap tunes or anything so this has nothing to do with my problems. But I've noticed things have worked out a lot better without the cap. I would recommend hooking everything up and seeing how you like it before you splurge for a capacitor. They seem to be hit or miss in the audio community anyways.

The audio equipment wasn't my original issue in all of this anyways. I just randomly noticed that my battery gauge was stupid low and the alternator wasn't charging and thought if the higher Canadian output alternator was better then i would go that route. I can't say if a capacitor would help much. Mine is a 1 Farad but I didn't notice a difference when using or not using it.

I meant to get rid of it as it isn't needed.

The cap vs. no cap debate has been started many times and often goes no where so I'm not getting involved. 2fnloud and Stealthee are on the right track for sure.

[2xmks]

The Mechman alternators for the 3S are rated at 150 amp and 220 amp. Off the top of my head the 220 amp version was listed upwards of 125amps at idle. I have some actual dyno bench test sheets on these at the shop if anyone is interested.

Mike

[BigBoris]

Excellent post. A cap is nothing more than an additional battery for the alternator to feed. Its more of a draw on the electrical system than a help.

After finally looking at the link, that test was done using the wrong size cap he was using a JBL A1201GTi rated at 1200WRMS with a peak 2400W and should have had at least a 2.5 Farad minimum, I would have recommended a 3 farad cap. Those test results are inconclusive do to the wrong size cap. Most people get a 1 Farad cap thinking its good enough but what they don't realize is that it won't help unless it's larger then what is needed. So where I am getting 2 amps pushing 1000Wats each I will be running one 4 to 6 farad cap. 6 Farad will be the best choice if you want it to stop diming. Now you might be saying it's over kill but then again the whole point is to stabilize the power and clean it up. Caps do two things, one being it cleans the power going to the amps to reduce noise and two stabilize the power to the amps. Another thing to keep in mind is that most amps don't regulate the power they draw so they may sometimes draw more power than needed. This is why I would say it's best to add at least 0.5 farads to the required size. Example: 1000W amp only needs 1 farad but to be more effective you should have at least a 1.5 farad cap.

Side note; RMS is usually half of the peak Watts. So 1000WRMS is roughly 2000W Peak.

[2fnloud]

with what you just mentioned a person might as well add a battery or step up to a H/O alternator because it is going to cost the same in the end. BTW only the high end performance amplifiers are not regulated, meaning if you feed them 16V they will take it and make that much more power respectfully.

Not every amplifier is like that. I have said my piece about why caps are not the answer, and I knew KNEW you was going to spout off why his results where flawed. Despite the other links I provided. I think this last post you posted helps decide why not to use a cap, not even debating if they do or don't work. Just from the cost aspect, you can get a 800+ CCA under the hood. I have put a particular battery in my Saturn and in my Grand Caravan that is 800 CCA and was right around 110.00.

When handling voltage issues I would recommend these things in the following order:

1. The Big Three (http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1)

This is adding additional cable in 4-0/1 GA wire to the following areas:

Alternator to battery
Battery to chassis
Chassis to engine block

I even like to go one step farther and add a wire from battery to the engine block, so I guess I do "The big four". This one right here will solve most all voltage drop issues, this is assuming that you are using the right GA wire for the job.

2. Replace the battery under the hood with the largest battery that you can fit, the more CCA and Ah the better.

I would do these two things before ever replacing the alternator or adding capacitors.

[stealthee]

The biggest thing that should point out that caps are pointless is the fact that the vast majority of sound off competitors do NOT use them. If they did any good at all and helped you know every single one of them would have them.

[BigBoris]

with what you just mentioned a person might as well add a battery or step up to a H/O alternator because it is going to cost the same in the end. BTW only the high end performance amplifiers are not regulated, meaning if you feed them 16V they will take it and make that much more power respectfully.

Not every amplifier is like that. I have said my piece about why caps are not the answer, and I knew KNEW you was going to spout off why his results where flawed. Despite the other links I provided. I think this last post you posted helps decide why not to use a cap, not even debating if they do or don't work. Just from the cost aspect, you can get a 800+ CCA under the hood. I have put a particular battery in my Saturn and in my Grand Caravan that is 800 CCA and was right around 110.00.

When handling voltage issues I would recommend these things in the following order:

1. The Big Three (http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1)

This is adding additional cable in 4-0/1 GA wire to the following areas:

Alternator to battery
Battery to chassis
Chassis to engine block

I even like to go one step farther and add a wire from battery to the engine block, so I guess I do "The big four". This one right here will solve most all voltage drop issues, this is assuming that you are using the right GA wire for the job.

2. Replace the battery under the hood with the largest battery that you can fit, the more CCA and Ah the better.

I would do these two things before ever replacing the alternator or adding capacitors.

On thing is for sure here... No, Capacitors aren't always the solution to your problem. I will admit that, it depends on the use. Caps aren't used in competitions because there isn't a need for it. The guy/girl wont be driving down the street listening to music long enough to matter. Its for a short time and most people trickle charge their battery's. On the other hand, if you use the right size cap you can by all means stabilize the power during normal usage. Most people don't have the volume high enough while driving for long periods of time to drain a cap completely and even if with today's caps they don't take long to regain full charge. I'm sure you are sold on the fact that they don't work but respectively if you want to read more on this topic by people who have in fact spent the time and money going both routes you can check out this link.

what do 25 Farad Caps do?? (http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000975;p=0)

In the beginning it may seem repetitive as the guy starting the thread wasn't satisfied by the first few answers. You will read from people who can attest to them working under the right applications and circumstances.

I won't argue that getting a good HO alt is a good idea, I do believe its important. However in many cases adding the right size cap can have the same affect.



The biggest thing that should point out that caps are pointless is the fact that the vast majority of sound off competitors do NOT use them. If they did any good at all and helped you know every single one of them would have them.

I don't believe your post is viable. You simply state that "caps are pointless" and do not provide any supporting evidence. If you knew anything about how they worked and the purpose of a capacitor then maybe you wouldn't use "sound off competitors" as an example. In many cases competitors have 3 HO alternators and sometimes up to 8 battery's. Even then sometimes they do install 100F caps as they are not usually limited in competitions.

Now back to our daily drivers with no more then the usual 2 or 3 amps at around 1000Watts each... a 10F to 15F cap would suffice.

One 25F cap cost about $220 for a good one.

25 Farad Square Hybrid Power Capacitor - PLDCP25 - Pyle - Quality Audio Inc. (http://www.qualitycaraudio.com/store/viewItem.asp?sku=PLDCP25)

HO Alt about $400+
Optima Battery (Yellow cap) $200

Do the math... $600 bucks or $220

[Spyder]

Pyle of shit. 220 wasted dollars or 600 well spend dollars, well I would change the optima for something else.

[Spyder]

Any more info on the DOHC alt working on a SOHC, is there a belt difference?? pulley size difference?? Its only a 20 amp gain but if its not hard to change why not.

[BigBoris]

Pyle of shit. 220 wasted dollars or 600 well spend dollars, well I would change the optima for something else.

I just installed last week a 2000 watt rms system on my cousins trail blazer SS and did some testes myself. with out the cap 40 minutes of listening time without the truck on and no cap. with the cap got 1 hour 15 minutes Volume was at (15/35). Without the cap the light did in fact dim just below medium volume(13/35), with the cap they still dimmed but at near full volume. (30/35)

installed a digital 6farad cap that cost roughly $50 bucks. Still using OEM charging system and the factory battery. No additional grounding was done.

[Spyder]

Wow lol.

[GTwizard]

Yep
Sorry steve. But you need to read up on things before you post up. Your sounding silly these days. My alt put out the same at idle as it does at 5000 RPM. So that statment you made about the alt not putting out much at idle tells me you don't own a Volt/Ohm metter gauge do you.
and Deadohiosky39. Please don't autozone. Their Dura-Don't-last products are junk. Same with advanced. Seen them all. I do ORieley's but even then, look at the packaging. See just where the alt was rebuilt. if it says Malashia (speeling sucks) don't buy it and ask for an other.

[stealthee]

OReileys and Advance are the essentially the same thing.

[2fnloud]

Yep
Sorry steve. But you need to read up on things before you post up. Your sounding silly these days. My alt put out the same at idle as it does at 5000 RPM. So that statment you made about the alt not putting out much at idle tells me you don't own a Volt/Ohm metter gauge do you.
and Deadohiosky39. Please don't autozone. Their Dura-Don't-last products are junk. Same with advanced. Seen them all. I do ORieley's but even then, look at the packaging. See just where the alt was rebuilt. if it says Malashia (speeling sucks) don't buy it and ask for an other.

I NEVER thought I would defend one of his statements but he is right, alternators achieve max output at about 2-2.5K. This difference is minimal with a properly built alternator, but if an alternator is built poorly, the output difference can be quite different. When I wanted the shop who built my 180 Amp alternator for my Saturn to build my a 220Amp alternator for my Saturn, I was told he can but the output would practically nothing at idle. Also in the car audio Bass offs / SPL comps. people will rev there car up to 2K-2.5K so the alternator is at max output.

I have since found reputable H/O alternator builders that the output at idle is about 175 Amp and the max is 220 at about 2-2.5K

I know 12V and car audio like you know the 3s platform. I try not to pull my statements out of my rear just to post up trash.

[2fnloud]

Pulled this from one alternator site (http://www.alternatorparts.com/more_alternator_power_at_idle.htm)


How do I get more power at Idle?

Improving Alternator Output at Idle Speed

There are several ways to get more power at lower engine speeds. If you only require a little more power at lower engine speeds you may be able to use a smaller pulley. The smaller pulley turns the alternator faster at lower speeds thus making more power. When using a smaller pulley care should be taken not to over rev the motor. If you over rev the alternator with a smaller pulley the alternator can fail. I have seen internal and external fans explode and go through the hood of the vehicle with a $10,000 custom paint job.

The best way by far to obtain more power at lower engine speeds is to install an oversize alternator. The physically larger alternators produce more power at lower engine speeds and are much more reliable at higher outputs. Installing a higher output alternator that is the same size as your original alternator will not give you more power at idle unless they use a special rotor stator combination.

[GTwizard]

You may know alot more than I about stereos. That's for sure. It has been like 20 years or so the last time I did one. This current build only has 2- 1400 what power amps. But I have no power issues and the alt puts out 14.2 volts at idle. All my cars do.
I never accused you of pulling from your ass and posting trash just for the sake of posting. Please show me where I did that. The fact that you are trying to put word in my mouth that never came from my mouth is for sure TRASH. I see you beat the crap out of steve for a few of his posts. What. are you the only one that can speak your mind here and have an opinion. If you disagree, say so. that's fine. I do. But don't start attacking me when I did nothing to you. defend him all you like. that's cool. But get the F**k off my back for something I did not do. This place is going to get just like the old one.

[2fnloud]

You may know alot more than I about stereos. That's for sure. It has been like 20 years or so the last time I did one. This current build only has 2- 1400 what power amps. But I have no power issues and the alt puts out 14.2 volts at idle. All my cars do.
I never accused you of pulling from your ass and posting trash just for the sake of posting. Please show me where I did that. The fact that you are trying to put word in my mouth that never came from my mouth is for sure TRASH. I see you beat the crap out of steve for a few of his posts. What. are you the only one that can speak your mind here and have an opinion. If you disagree, say so. that's fine. I do. But don't start attacking me when I did nothing to you. defend him all you like. that's cool. But get the F**k off my back for something I did not do. This place is going to get just like the old one.

Actually GT I miss-understood your post. After I posted mine comment, I realized that you was referring to steve68 and not me. I tried to edit my original post to not be offensive to you but it appears that I failed miserably.

I didn't mean for my post to accuse you of things you didn't do.

My comment about defending Steve68 was extreme sarcasm.

I am sorry that my post wasn't edited enough to make you feel that it was an attack towards you.

[GTwizard]

2fnloud
All is cool with me and you. And I realy did not wish to be such an ass to steve68. So Steve68. Hang in there dude. There are ton's of people that know more than I when it come to electrical. And sometimes I read too fast and jump to cunclutions and should not. And post with out thinking it through. I don't have issues with you and wish not to. I realy do try to help others. Sometimes I forget that I do things unlike others, and have access to parts and supplies that most do not. If you have any question or coments please feel free to post up and call me an ass if you like. Sometimes I am, And for this I do apoligize. And this goes for anyone that I may offend. I do need to be a little more tactful.
Stealthee,
I bashed advanced because I have had lots of junk from them. The last steering rack I got from them was the worst I have ever seen and ended up rebuilding it my self. Than when trying to return the core, they insisted I needed to return it to a store where I bought the remanufactured one from. I tried to tell them it was an online purchase. They tried to tell me that I could not send in a core if was purchaced on line. That's nuts. Took me 5 days to get through to someone that would give me the info on how to do shipping to get core credit. And I was calling their corperate offices. I told them if they did not except this return core, I would post what happened everywhere.

[IconAS95GT]

OK, just wanted to jump in here for a second,,,,,if anyone ever has a problem at an AAP location (eg. cores, refunds, on-line orders, or anything), PM me with the town and state of the store and what's going on. Why,,because I am a GM of the Dunmore, PA location. I would be more than happy to help anyone here and make a phone call to another store if I have to. Sorry GT, I have sent you a personal e-mail. Stealthee, if you haven't taken care of the clutch issue (from another thread), let me know if they give you any issues.

Thanks guys and girls,
Ryan