No oil pressure on startup!

[blackrob]

So this just happened the 2nd time in couple of weeks. I start up the car and it idles rough and the oil light is on and the oil pressure gauge is pegged at zero. If I just give a slight push on the gas, take it to 2K RPM's, the oil pressure kicks up and the oil light goes off. It's a 95 VR4 with 151K miles. I just bought the car about a month ago and the guy told me that the motor had been rebuilt about 7k miles ago. :confused:

[green-lantern]

Damn that is scary!

[mikeyVR4]

So this just happened the 2nd time in couple of weeks. I start up the car and it idles rough and the oil light is on and the oil pressure gauge is pegged at zero. If I just give a slight push on the gas, take it to 2K RPM's, the oil pressure kicks up and the oil light goes off. It's a 95 VR4 with 151K miles. I just bought the car about a month ago and the guy told me that the motor had been rebuilt about 7k miles ago. :confused:

I suggest to not turn the car on anymore if that light shows and the car is running rough at first. If you car truly has no pressure you can damage your engine.

This might be a stupid suggestion but its something to look at first, check your oil levels and see how you are doing. I know some people say to check the sensors but since your car is running rough when that light is on it may mean that the indicator light is true in its readings.

[mcshooter]

the oil pressure switch . maybe but the rough idle scares me. you might take the oil filler cap and look to see if you have oil pressure

[Ninja Performance]

If the car is idling rough, and very LOW rpm, your oil pressure will drop and the idiot light will come on.

Maybe it's not low oil pressure that is your issue, but a poorly running engine.

-Chris

[green-lantern]

If the car is idling rough, and very LOW rpm, your oil pressure will drop and the idiot light will come on.

Maybe it's not low oil pressure that is your issue, but a poorly running engine.

-Chris

I was thinking this. Also check your oil pan for dents if you haven't already. It doesn't take much of a dent at all to choke off the oil supply.

[fastnelson]

At 2k rpms where the oil pressure goes?

Add:
1-Why is running rough? you have to fix that.
2-What oil do you use.

[thor'svr4]

just fyi i spun a bearing when my low oil pressure light stayed on at 800rpm, but it went off by 900-1000 rpm. so if yours is on at any rpm higher than idle i would be scared.

[mikeyVR4]

just fyi i spun a bearing when my low oil pressure light stayed on at 800rpm, but it went off by 900-1000 rpm. so if yours is on at any rpm higher than idle i would be scared.

Yeah that is why I am advising him to not start the car...ESPECIALLY if that light keeps coming on and the car running rough. Don't risk your engine. Oh and please do not REV your engine when your car isnt running well....that is something I would never do.

[MaxClass]

You might consider the oil filter. If it's a "Fram" take it off and throw it away. I use a K&N because they are known for better stuff and they also have a 1" nut on the bottom to make removal easier when your under the car. Could also be oil draining backwards from the filter leaving the engine to have to suck oil from a pump full of air. Most oil filters have an anti-drainback flap in them so if the filter has a manufacturing defect that could exacerbate the problem but the filter is the first link in the chain to getting oil to the rest of your engine so that is the first place I would start to look for problems.

P.S. As posted earlier make sure that you do not have a dented in recess on the bottom of the pan. Unaware people put jacks there to lift up the engine and dent them.

[mikeyVR4]

K&N oil filter here as well :).

[thor'svr4]

i didnt even know K&N made oil filters, ill switch ASAP. where do you buy them from? ive never seen them at autozone, advanced auto, ect.

[Ninja Performance]

i didnt even know K&N made oil filters, ill switch ASAP. where do you buy them from? ive never seen them at autozone, advanced auto, ect.

They are Mobil 1 filters.

-Chris

[DocWalt]

But they have a nut on the bottom that makes it super easy to change!

I use a Purolator Pore One.

[OhioSpyderman]

Advanced Auto is the only place I can find the K&N filters and they also carry the Mobil 1's as well (hrmmm...maybe I saw the K&N's at Pep Boys as well....)

[blindmist]

But they have a nut on the bottom that makes it super easy to change!

I use a Purolator Pore One.

^^^^This is the VERY BEST filter you can buy. 99.9% and no other filter matches that!! and its "Purolator PureONE".

http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/products/oil_filters/PublishingImages/PureONE_Oilcutaway.jpghttp://www.purolatorautofilters.net/products/oil_filters/PublishingImages/EfficiencyLogo_175.jpg

http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/products/oil_filters/Pages/pureoneoilfilters.aspx

[DocWalt]

Yeah, I typoed the shit out of that, lmao.

[blackrob]

I was thinking this. Also check your oil pan for dents if you haven't already. It doesn't take much of a dent at all to choke off the oil supply.

So, I got under the car just to check out the oil pan without jacking it up, and it seems to have one hell of a dent in it. I'm going to be doing some work on the clutch this weekend so I will drop the pan and hammer out the dent. Let's hope that's all it is.

At first I thought it was the rough idle that effected the low pressure, but the car only idles rough when there is low pressure. This is kinda one of those chicken or the egg dilemas.

Is there anything that I would need to drop the pan and put it back on besides the obvious things like oil, oil pan gasket, and rubber mallet to beat out the dent?

[blackrob]

At 2k rpms where the oil pressure goes?

Add:
1-Why is running rough? you have to fix that.
2-What oil do you use.

It goes back to normal. I have the stock oil pressure gauge so the inaccurate reading is just a few lines below the bottom of the two larger lines.

1. Only happens when I don't have oil pressure, and has only happened a couple of times.
2. I don't recall what brand I put in it last time. It was my first time changing the oil since I just purchased the car a month ago. I know it was a synthetic, and it was 5W30.

The first thing I did was check my oil level, and it was fine; right at the top notch of the dipstick.

When I get to changing the oil I will take everyones advice and go with either a K&N or Purolator.

[blindmist]

It goes back to normal. I have the stock oil pressure gauge so the inaccurate reading is just a few lines below the bottom of the two larger lines.

1. Only happens when I don't have oil pressure, and has only happened a couple of times.
2. I don't recall what brand I put in it last time. It was my first time changing the oil since I just purchased the car a month ago. I know it was a synthetic, and it was 5W30.

The first thing I did was check my oil level, and it was fine; right at the top notch of the dipstick.

When I get to changing the oil I will take everyones advice and go with either a K&N or Purolator.

I would also make an investment in some Amsoil. I have found that it is the best stuff that STAYS clean in these TT motors.

[deemo99]

No gasket for oil pan, I use the Mitsu recommended stuff (purchased from 3SX with my new pan), but I am sure there are comparable products that will accomplish a seal as well. Careful removing the pan. It is super easy to end up with a very wavy sealing surface from removal by wedging between the pan and block, even with the factory tools. You can also damage the drain if you pull from it as well. I replaced my pan so I don't have a method that doesn't distort or damage it at least a little, sorry. I am sure it has been covered by others.....

[blindmist]

No gasket for oil pan, I use the Mitsu recommended stuff (purchased from 3SX with my new pan), but I am sure there are comparable products that will accomplish a seal as well. Careful removing the pan. It is super easy to end up with a very wavy sealing surface from removal by wedging between the pan and block, even with the factory tools. You can also damage the drain if you pull from it as well. I replaced my pan so I don't have a method that doesn't distort or damage it at least a little, sorry. I am sure it has been covered by others.....

Small flat head screwdriver and hammer. Just NEVER pry with the screwdriver, just get it barely under the edge of the seal to break it and work your way around the block.

[mcshooter]

the way i remove the oil pan is i took a putty knife and shorten the blade to about 1 inch and then ground it sharp on the end and side. this way i can drive it in and then drive it down the length of the pan using the side of it i sharpened to not distort the pan

[blackrob]

No gasket for oil pan, I use the Mitsu recommended stuff (purchased from 3SX with my new pan), but I am sure there are comparable products that will accomplish a seal as well. Careful removing the pan. It is super easy to end up with a very wavy sealing surface from removal by wedging between the pan and block, even with the factory tools. You can also damage the drain if you pull from it as well. I replaced my pan so I don't have a method that doesn't distort or damage it at least a little, sorry. I am sure it has been covered by others.....

It looks a little more complicated than I expected, but I'm used to working on V-8's so they don't cross over anything on the way to the rear. Wish me luck!!! LOL Let's hope I don't mess this up since I will be doing it at someone else's house.
I found a post on Stealth316.
Stealth 316 oil pan R/R (http://www.stealth316.com/2-oilpan.htm)

[blackrob]

I hate to resurrect an old post from the dead, but this started happening again. So here's the recap...
-At totally random times when I start the car it idles as if there is a misfire and the car acts like it wants to stall.
-I can hold down the gas pedal to keep the RPM's around 1K to keep the engine running.
-As long as the engine is running the oil pressure is normal, according to the gauge.
-I'm not sure if this is related, but when I crank the car when the engine is cold I get what sound like lifter tick. I'm not convinced it is lifter tick since the ticking noise is constant and does not follow the RPM's of the engine.

My first thought is that I have a cylinder that is not firing(bad spark or something) because once the car is warm it purrs like a kitten. I have read in some posts in the past about people driving their cars for short distances, parking it for 30 mins to an hour, then cranking it up and having a rough idle. Well, I get that from time to time also.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.