Tips for install

[Goallie11]

I just got some DR650's and plan on installing them tomorrow. I'm also going to put 550's in and a walbro, as well as hook up an emanage blue.

Does anyone have any tips for doing all of this? I'm gonna use the guides on stealth316 but any further knowledge would be good.

[DocWalt]

Use brand new bolts and anti-seize on the turbo bolts. Personally, I'd budget two days on all of that, just because of the tedious work involved, and the possibility of having to remove seized in stuff. Turbos should be doable in 6-8 hours assuming it all goes well, 550's should be doable in about an hour and a half, and the Walbro shouldn't take too long either, assuming the tank studs don't need rebuilt. If the emanage is all ready to plug right in, that's cake.

[Goallie11]

I think the emanage is ready to go, I'll have to go over the wiring thats already in it and check beforehand, I'm scared of cutting the wrong things for that though.

On stealth316 he says the injectors take about 4-6 hours and I'm not finding a turbo guide, but that seems pretty straightforward. I can take as long as I need now that I'm done with classes for the semester, so time won't be an issue. Good idea on the anti seize, I hope the stuff isn't already seized up, but thats what air guns are for :)

I've already had my downpipe off for a while now so that'll cut down the time a bit. Any other tidbits from anyone?

[Turbo Beast]

Just like usual, dont drop stuff in the lower intake when removing the upper. Take your time on the rest, do it right the first time!

(Off topic to Steven below me: Steven! What up!?!)

[FeaRpb]

Colin!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry, I had nothing to add to this thread, just wanted to say hi.

[DocWalt]

Dude, 4-6 hours for the injectors if you're taking a break constantly, lol. Having it all off at once makes it super easy to just do everything at once. The turbos have a few specific tricks, like the rear pre-cat heatshield needs rotated to the right, and pulled up really f'ing hard. Air tools may not help with the bolts, that's what I was using the second time, and the threads on the bolt cammed in and refused to pull out, so I had to drill it out. Twice. :(

[Goallie11]

Ooh that sucks doc. I figure that estimate for the injectors was a lot longer then it really takes, and I may be wrong but I dont think I have a rear heat shield to worry about.

[DocWalt]

If you don't have one, that makes the rear turbo job SUPER easy. Probably one of the easiest "big" jobs I've ever done. Everyone was bitching about the rear being so difficult. The only hard part was the heatshields.

[deemo99]

New gaskets for TB, Lower Intake etc unless they are really new. Re the fuel pump, get your PB Blaster or equiv on there ahead of time. I now have 5 of 6 studs on the tank with no issues, but I know it's that way and that's enough to drive me nuts:) Rear heatshields should be the biggest PITA depending on fastener condition. I like to pull the radiator to do the front turbo, just way more room and no accidental holes in the radiator, but that's just me. Not sure if DR650's are the same, but I had to grind down the front motor mount a little for the 16t's to fit.

[Roybatty]

Recently installed Walbro, hardest part was breaking loose the line from under the fuel tank that connects hard line to filter to hard line on pump assembly. Had to use a crescent wrench to get enough torque, while holding the stationary part (hard lines) with flared wrench.

If you ever changed your plugs, doing the injectors is like 30 minutes more if you are in a rush.

[Goallie11]

Thanks for the tips guys, I'll be starting soon. Hopefully will finish before midnight tonight!

[Goallie11]

Ok another question, is the walbro install kit necessary or optional? It looks like it's just some wires. I got the pump for free and never thought about having to get something more to install it.

Edit: Upon looking it seems like it is necessary, now the question is are the kits interchangeable? We require an 800-857 but looking on ebay the kits are listed as exchangeable and all look the same. A local shop has an 800-847 that is used on 2g dsm's and evo's, so would that work?

[Roybatty]

The kits are good for plug connections to walbro. They r cheap IIRC. I got my pump & kit from STM, site sponsor; send Austin a pm or order from their website.

[Goallie11]

I just emailed walbro to find out if the 800-857 and 800-847 are interchangeable so I'll hope to find out by the end of the day.

My injectors didn't come in the mail as scheduled so I'm putting off installing everything til tomorrow so I can do it all at once.

[TonyM]

For the injectors, make sure you have some new viton O-rings on hand if the injectors don't have new ones already on them, those bitches tear real easy when pulling out the old injectors and aren't reusable when they're messed up.

Also, when seating the injectors and rails back down, make sure the rubber isolators in the lower manifold seat right. I had one get jammed in crooked and didn't realize it, after a few heat ups and cool downs the rubber hardened and cracked causing a huge vac leak and the car ran like shit.

DR-650s should be cake since they're TD04. Just make sure you put something there to protect your radiator or you'll curse yourself for putting a hole in it.

Happy hunting.

[Goallie11]

I just got the injectors today and the o-rings looked good, I'll look over them again to make sure though. They're the thing I'm most scared about, I tried to help a friend put a new fuel rail on his pontiac GTO a while ago and the things just wouldn't go in right, kept leaking and leaking.

I think the front turbo will be the easiest thing because I don't have the downpipe on, I'm just gonna unbolt the wastegate and turbo from the manifold and pull everything straight up. In fact gonna go start now that I've got everything.

[Goallie11]

Fuel pumps in, easy thing to do but I had to use some foam to mount it properly. Runs though and doesn't leak.

[MaxClass]

APR Ultra-Torque Lubricant is great for exhaust/turbo bolts because it has all the requirements for torquing plus high pressure additives and anti-sieze built right in. It's awesome stuff.

Can also be used on plugs but be very careful to NOT over torque, especially on any bolts that go into aluminum. Check your torque specks first.

[Goallie11]

Alright this front turbo is harder to take out then I imagined. How do you get to the oil return line on it? If anyone knows of a guide that be helpful.

[DocWalt]

Unbolt the return line from the pan and remove it as one piece.

I used this guide, IIRC http://stealth316.com/2-tsg_v10.htm

[Goallie11]

I was able to get it off, but couldn't get the new one back in because there are studs in the new one so there's not enough room to maneuver.

Did get the injectors in and they don't appear to leak. Gonna to go a shop tomorrow to get the studs out and finish the front then start the rear.

[Goallie11]

While the front is at the shop I started working on the rear and the manifold bolts came out easily, but now I'm stuck on the oil feed line. I sprayed it with WD-40 and it's been sitting for about an hour so I'll give it more time, but do I turn the big bottom nut while holding the hardline small bolt in place, or vice versa?

[DocWalt]

Hold the bottom big nut, and loosen the top small nut. Does the new turbo have that adapter already? Either way, you need to get the small nut loose, and the line off before you remove the adapter, or you'll twist the feed line.

[Goallie11]

Alright thanks Doc. The new one doesn't have an adapter but thats the one thats turning easily so it'll come off once the small nut and line is off. Just gotta sit around and wait for that WD-40 to work.

[DocWalt]

Ok, it may be a bit tough to break free, mine was a PITA too.

[Goallie11]

I just got back from picking up the turbo and downpipe. Good news is the turbo is in! Just bolted it to the manifold for now as I have to go to work soon, but I also tried to undo the rear oil feed line and couldn't get it. Also I had them weld the wideband bung on the wrong side of the downpipe :( Welded it to the left side and it looks like it needs to go on the right.

[Goallie11]

Ok first day of not working and I nearly completed everything. I would have been done hours ago except for I think putting a throttle body bolt in the plenum and it breaking.

I've got 4 bolts left and any of the four will go into three of the throttle body holes, but none will fit in the bottom front throttle body hole. It feels like that hole on the plenum is smaller then the other 3. Of the bolts remaining, two have 4 on the top, and two have 7. The broken bolt is a 4 also.

What's up with the throttle body bolts not fitting and how do I get that broken bolt out?

[TonyM]

You're going to need an easy out extractor to get the broken bolt out.

As for the TB bolts, they should all be the same size and all be grade 7 if memory serves me right.

[DocWalt]

Yep, all of the bolts to mount the TB are the same size, and all the same grade (7 maybe, I don't remember)

[Goallie11]

Ok so do the grade 4s go in the plenum then?

I'll go pick up an easy out, buy with the bolt most of the way down the hole do you think it'll work?

[Roybatty]

Found this helpful for the broken bolts>>>
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm

[Goallie11]

Thanks for that, I don't have any type of torch though so I can't use heat to remove it. I'll be getting an easy out tomorrow and hope that it works.

[Goallie11]

Just finished up a couple minutes ago with getting everything back on. Fortunately because theres no threads on the plenum I was able to take the other bolts out and remove it and use some pliers to remove the broken end of the bolt.

So now everything but the emanage is on and i'm taking a break before I go do that. Does anyone have tips with that? What base corrections should I do so I can get it running? I tried to start it with the new injectors and everything but it wouldn't, it just cranked.

[Goallie11]

Finally got the Emanage blue in and communicating, now I need some help with the software if anyone can.

When I hit the parameter settings button and put my injector size as 360/550 respectively, and then click the air flow adjustment button, hit confirm and it doesn't bring up any corrections to the map. It's all just 0's when I pull it up. I tried starting the car this way, and of course it wouldn't. Can anyone help me out on that?

I want to get a tune so that it'll run with the bigger injectors and I can start going from there. I've been reading up but haven't found anything yet.