Cheapest possible fix

[impulsive6791]

Hey guys I have a spun bearing but I stopped driving the second I thought something weird was going on (Never drove it with no oil pressure it just dropped dangerously low). My question is what is the cheapest way to get my car back up and going. I know obviously that a full rebuild is the best way and I will do that one day. But, for now I have to have the car running somewhat healthy. So is it possible to just replace that one cylinder? please I am desperate for input. Also I know I am gambling by going a cheap route to fix a serious issue. But I have to have the car at least be able to go 2 miles a day thats about it. thanks and have a good day.

[x2percentmilk]

The issue is that the bearing material gets fed through the oil system and can do damage in the future unless you do everything 100% the right way

You cant really purchase just one pair of bearings either (at least not that I know of).

How certain are you that its spun?

[impulsive6791]

well, I was sitting at a light and noticed that my oil pressure was on the final tick mark before reading 0 then when i began moving the oil pressure picked back up to normal, also I started hearing a funny noise from the engine sounding like a faint banging. but nothing to loud. After I popped my hood to listen I heard a massive air leak from back were I did my vacuum line reduction but I could definantly hear some other foreign noise coming from the engine... it got worse when i revved and it did not change when clutch was pressed. I plan to take it to my shop and get a final diag. I know I could do it myself but with school and work and the holidays I just don't have the time. But I don't think the vac. leak could cause the issue just cause o the oil pressure loss. and the oil pump had 1k miles. and my VSS are bad so I do smoke but I always tried to stay up on the oil level. I was thinking maybe replace the cylinders that the bearings spun on and do new oil cooler and oil parts....

[x2percentmilk]

That, have the crank turned, and clean the shit out of your heads.

Im not sure you have a spun bearing, has your car ever had lifter tick? I mistook NASTY lifter tick for rod knock a short while ago

EDIT: did the oil light on the dash ever come on?

[impulsive6791]

No the oil light on the dash never turned on. I had a friend say it sounded like bearing issues and it got really loud when I pulled boost the one time I did. yes I do have lifter tick.

[Amphiron]

Find a replacement engine and put it in. I just spun a bearing from not doing a build right. If you're going to skimp anywhere on the build DO NOT BOTHER. lol.

[J_Parker]

Ditto. Don't skimp out on a build, replacement engines are a good way to go, but there's the risk of not knowing what kind of condition that engine will be in either. A good way to find out if this is in fact a spun bearing is to drain you oil into some spotless containers and strain it to find out if there is any metal in there. Also, you can drop the pan to see if there is any metal left behind afterward. Me personally, I would clean the shit out of everything. Flush the entire oil system too, it's not nesecary to replace everything as that can get very expensive on it's own. A good way to flush it is to use diesel, or something of the likes. I like to use gas on the parts that don't have any rubber lines.

[impulsive6791]

When you say flush everything are you saying it as in do not replace the oil cooler/pump and other parts when doing the build? Also, I know that skimping on a build is a very neglectful thing to do. I just got done doing a full fuel/turbo/suspension swap on the car. My issue is that I'm moving in a month to my new apartment which is half a mile off campus and I need the car at least able to run for the cold days to class and that way the apartment complex doesn't think it's broke down. It will be a temporary solution until I graduate in a year and can actually make some money. Thats the only reason I am trying to do this on a really thin budget... I am not expecting full horsepower or crazy performance I just need it to go through two stop lights. haha

[Amphiron]

get a bike. theres no quick fix for a spun bearing, i'm sorry. it sucks. mine just went and i need to get back and forth to work. lucky my girlfriend gave me her old cavalier. when you have a 3000gt/stealth/gto... i'd really recommend having another car unless its a SOHC.

[stealthee]

get a bike. theres no quick fix for a spun bearing, i'm sorry. it sucks. mine just went and i need to get back and forth to work. lucky my girlfriend gave me her old cavalier. when you have a 3000gt/stealth/gto... i'd really recommend having another car unless its a SOHC.

Even the SOHC's aren't that reliable as the mileage gets higher.

[impulsive6791]

Ya, I have a 91 s-10 that Im rolling in just would love to have both cars running when I move to my new place.

[J_Parker]

When you say flush everything are you saying it as in do not replace the oil cooler/pump and other parts when doing the build?

you don't really need to replace the oil coolers, a good thoughrough cleaning of them is really all that is necessary. Usually you'd only replace them if the core is leaking. As for the oil pump, take it appart and check your clearances. I can't remember the tollerances off the top of my head, but quick look up will give you an idea, if they are within reason then just clean it up reassemble and reuse.

If it's absoloutly imparitive that you want your car back up on the go and don't care if it lasts a few years... pick up an engine gasket kit, and a set of bearings. Leave the block in the car, tear everything off and do your cleaning/build in the car, you won't be able to clean out the crank, but you can hope there's nothing in the oil galleys that's going to hurt the new bearings. Clean, clean, clean, is really the only advise in a situation like this.

[terrets]

So heres the deal. I dont recommend doing this but............................................... ......

I replaced my rod bearings by just pulling the pan off and doing no flush or turn down of the crank. My only cost was the new bearings.

I only had a rod knock. No spun bearing. No visible damage on the crank. It still does knock quietly and the rod cap torqued weird :lol:(I know Ill get crap for this.) I did have almost no oil reading on the dipstick when I noticed the knock. I got the car from someone that didnt know how to take care of it and I did not check the oil when I was buying the car. :facepalm: I noticed the knock when I got back from picking up the car 30 minutes away and didnt run it anymore.

But hey, I needed a quick cheap fix too. But she is getting rebuilt this winter. I got about 6k miles out of these bearings with a slight knock the whole way...The Rotella-T Synthetic May have played a role in keeping it going :lol: :D

Disclaimer: Reader does this at their own risk. Not responsible for any damage done. Please refer to the intelligent posts above to become aware of what SHOULD be done.







Orrr buy a $500 Chevy or Buick. Both GREAT vehicles that require little maintenance and dont break to often. Especially Buicks. I beat the living piss out of a 1997 Century when I first got my license and its still running strong. Sold it for $600. Over 300k miles.
Currently roddin' a '93 Blazer. Rusted as shit but very reliable. And has 4x4 :D

PS: J_Parker - That engine is damn sexy!! Mind if I ask exactly what paint that is on the plenum and cover??

[J_Parker]

PS: J_Parker - That engine is damn sexy!! Mind if I ask exactly what paint that is on the plenum and cover??

Thanks man! Been getting a lot of positive feeback on it :D It's a high heat enamel that I had custom mixed in some aerosol cans for me at my parts store. I have the same paint on my Soarers engine so I can confirm it's durability. The paint color names are Phantom Grey (Valve covers, throttlebody, and brackets) Black Sunfire (Pleumn, lower pleumn, and mounting surfaces.)

[Amphiron]

Orrr buy a $500 Chevy or Buick. Both GREAT vehicles that require little maintenance and dont break to often. Especially Buicks. I beat the living piss out of a 1997 Century when I first got my license and its still running strong. Sold it for $600. Over 300k miles.
Currently roddin' a '93 Blazer. Rusted as shit but very reliable. And has 4x4 :D

PS: J_Parker - That engine is damn sexy!! Mind if I ask exactly what paint that is on the plenum and cover??
Was it a 3800? Those engines are tanks!

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

When you say flush everything are you saying it as in do not replace the oil cooler/pump and other parts when doing the build? Also, I know that skimping on a build is a very neglectful thing to do. I just got done doing a full fuel/turbo/suspension swap on the car. My issue is that I'm moving in a month to my new apartment which is half a mile off campus and I need the car at least able to run for the cold days to class and that way the apartment complex doesn't think it's broke down. It will be a temporary solution until I graduate in a year and can actually make some money. Thats the only reason I am trying to do this on a really thin budget... I am not expecting full horsepower or crazy performance I just need it to go through two stop lights. haha


Find a replacement engine and put it in. I just spun a bearing from not doing a build right. If you're going to skimp anywhere on the build DO NOT BOTHER. lol.

Listen to him. It's not a matter of how much abuse it's going to take. It's a matter of getting ALL the old bearing material out of everything. Something that's about impossible to do without replacing parts.

If you spun a bearing, there is no "slap a bearing set in". The crank needs to be machined and the spun rod needs to be replaced, at a bare minimum. Honestly, if you can't afford to do it right, get a beater and save up. Otherwise you'll just be wasting money and time.

If it's spun, the cheap route would be to find a replacement engine and get a new oil cooler.

[terrets]

Was it a 3800? Those engines are tanks!

Hell ya!!! That car went though hell and back. Drifting on dry pavement with the foot ebrake. Burnouts all day. Neutral drops. Drove it up 20foot snow piles. Took it out on the lake. Reved it to rev limiter alll the time at other drivers. Haha those were the good ole days. Except that time someone in the back seat tried throwing a full large orange soda from macdons out the window and it ended up ALLL over me.

Man I used to be able to drift better with a foot ebrake than most people could with a hand or rear wheel drive in winter :D.

[J_Parker]

Man I used to be able to drift better with a foot ebrake than most people could with a hand or rear wheel drive in winter :D.

I used to be a drift master! I had an 85 RX-7 GSL-SEwith 15" rims... Tires were suuuupper cheap, after that car I just lost it since tires got too expensive :(

[Amphiron]

Hell ya!!! That car went though hell and back. Drifting on dry pavement with the foot ebrake. Burnouts all day. Neutral drops. Drove it up 20foot snow piles. Took it out on the lake. Reved it to rev limiter alll the time at other drivers. Haha those were the good ole days. Except that time someone in the back seat tried throwing a full large orange soda from macdons out the window and it ended up ALLL over me.

Man I used to be able to drift better with a foot ebrake than most people could with a hand or rear wheel drive in winter :D.
Haha yeah my first car was a 1994 Bonneville SSE. I drove that thing like it was the general lee. Litterally I Jumped it. I wish I had videos of the drifting I could do in the winter. I guess I might have blown my stealth up expecting it to perform like my 3800? lol

[terrets]

:lmao: I love indestructible cars. :D