Setting the timing

[Trab]

Hey guys i should know everything about setting the timing on this car, but its been a little while since ive done it and i have a few questions just to make sure im doing it right. The rear cam gears, when aligned with there timing marks should they be loose and not under any pressure? My fronts are of course under alot of pressure, just cant remember how the rears are suppose to be.
Next question is on the cam gears there are two different sets of marks to align the cam gears with. One from the top of the engine and one from the side, well i align the top marks and the side marks are off by about half a tooth. Is this normal? Thanks guys

[green-lantern]

You might not be looking at the right marks. They should all line up. These marks should line up with the round marks on the side of the cam gears.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o310/hptech4564/DSCF7148.jpg

You really need a book. You only get one chance at this. If you don't get it right you will be replacing valves.

[wingnut]

^^^what he said, and get the tensioner tool or you could also be replacing valves then too :D

[Trab]

O i have the tensioner tool and a manual. About the timing marks your showing, yes i know they are suppose to line up with those but there are also timing marks on the top part of the valve covers as well. The manual says that you use the top when the engine is in the car and the side shot when the engine is out of the car. But i thought they should both line up.

[Trab]

Heres a pic that shows the upper marks

http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/61395_Graphic_1_1.jpg

[J_Parker]

Just go by the small arrows on the valve cover. The front cams will be very tight and under a lot of pressure, however the rear cam gears should be around 75% tension of the front. The rear cam gears should also be sitting on the marks without trying to spring away. Best way to go about it is to start at the timing cog on the crank and work your way toward the back cams and over the engine, that way you don't have to wory about setting the crank back 1or two teeth. just make sure the belt remains tight all the way through the process, and do your thing tightening when you get past the front cams, make sure you use your tensioner tool as well. Rebuilding heads sucks...

[Roybatty]

You might not be looking at the right marks. They should all line up. These marks should line up with the round marks on the side of the cam gears.



:smartie:

They should all line up, I had to convince myself of some of this, because some are hard to see, straight on, if the engine is in the car.

[MightyMouse]

I put my belt on with the lash adjusters out and life was grand. I recommend popping them out and doing it that way.. It just makes life a whole lot easier when you're not fighting with the spring tension..

[thor'svr4]

:smartie:

They should all line up, I had to convince myself of some of this, because some are hard to see, straight on, if the engine is in the car.

i use a small mechanics mirror so that i dont have to look at the marks at an odd angle.

the only 'tip' that i dont think has been mentioned here yet is to do the front gears first, then go around the water pump and over the back gears. i like to allow the back gears to rotate a TINY bit counter clockwise (not even a full tooth) so that the belt slips on them easily. than make sure (like in the manual) your crankshaft sprocket is one tooth off on the counterclockwise direction. after you put the belt around the crank's sprocket you rotate the crank a tiny bit clockwise. the timing mark on the crank should now be dead on and the belt will be nice and tight from the crank to the rear cam gears and from the rear cam gears to the water pump. the whole purpose to doing this is to get the belt nice and tight in between the front and rear cyl banks.

i know i didnt explain that too well but its in the manual. just wanted to remind you not to skip that step. the first time my dad tried to do the timing on his stealth he was confused by the book and ignored that step so i had to redue the timing for him lol.

[gltasn]

I put my belt on with the lash adjusters out and life was grand. I recommend popping them out and doing it that way.. It just makes life a whole lot easier when you're not fighting with the spring tension..

im to lazy to pull the plenum and valve cover and lifters to do a timing belt,lol. heres a few tips not mentioned yet.
to set the cams up for putting on your timing belt its best to set the crank sprocket 4 teeth counter clockwise so if the cams get away from you there no way for them to hit your pistons(thanks jackhammer!). you will reline up the crank after setting cams. the front 2 cam you will want to rotate toward each other to line them up(insert lockers if you use them) and, the same with the rear but the rear exhaust wont have barely any spring pressure on it.

[MaxClass]

Once you get the belt on, and BEFORE you release the tensioner pin, turn and tighten down the tensioner pulley on the front side of the belt so that the belt is quit snug. This should hold everything in place while you turn the engine over twice to bring everything back to the correct position with the crank gear lined up where it should be. Then double check to make sure everything aligns up starting with the front cam gear working your way to the back ones.

This way you do not have to remove the tensioner and re-compress the pin every time to adjust the belt until you get it right.

If all is good you can loosen the belt tensioner pulley and set the right amount of tension so that when the tensioner pin is pulled out the shaft should not move and you should be able to re-insert the pin easily or very close. Be careful not to tighten the belt tension when you are tightening the tensioner pulley bolt.

There should be about 4mm of tensioner pin sticking out and touching the pulley tensioner lever when the tension on the belt is correct.