2fnould's build log

[2fnloud]

With all Tang Band speakers on sale 25% off, I finally bought the raw drivers I needed to complete my audio install.

I have always been an audiophile nut, but my 3S is the first car that I have had to take weight into consideration.

Then my best friend threw down the challenge: "Why not do a "stealth" install in your Stealth, make as much of the sound system hidden as possible. Obviously you would notice the new radio, and sub woofer box in the hatch, but hide everything else."

I instantly responded, saying that would be silly. I mainly thought it silly because I always liked displaying my amps and sound processors for show purposes like this:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/My%20Saturn/W28.jpg

That was my 2001 Saturn SC2, back to now. I thought about this and the challenge that it would create and it actually sounded like fun, so the next time I saw him I called him a few choice words because my brain was working so overtime about this, it had kept me up at nights.

So the goals:
1.) Install a sound system that is going to satisfy my audiophile needs, and keep the weight to 150-200lbs.

2.) Install everything that once done you will only see the radio is different, and notice a sub woofer box in the hatch area with the hatch open.

Being that Michigan winter is right around the corner I suspect that this will be a slow process but I will only post updates here, no individual thread for every little thing I do, hope you enjoy.

Let the fun begin!

[2fnloud]

I decided that I would bring over the Pioneer equipment that I had in my Saturn, this meant I have 5.1 DTS and Dolby Music II available. So I start with the biggest stealth challenge, getting my center channel without just putting Pioneer's center speaker pod on the dash.

This is what I did with my Saturn and I hated how it looked. Sounded great, just looked too non OEM for my liking. I thought about installing my center channel into the center vents of my Stealth. I read about doing this on Suthnr's 212 HP Stereo page, thanks for sharing Eric, that install is inspiring. So I spent the whole summer with them closed to see if I could do without them, I didn't miss them at all so I picked up another center vent piece and went to work.

The biggest problem was to find a speaker that would fit there and give the fullest sound possible. I based my judgment against the Freq response that the Pioneer speaker pod had, according to Pioneer the speaker pod has a Freq range of 140Hz ~ 30kHz.

I found a Tang Band speaker that has a Freq range of 150Hz ~ 20,000kHz, I figured that this would be close enough plus the shape of this speaker is what appealed to me the most. It's dimensions are 2"x3" with a cutout of 1-13/16" x 3-3/8". I ended up sanding the long side of the speaker flanges down to get them to fit how I wanted but I think I achieved success.

I started by cutting the duct of the center vent like so:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4148.jpg

I removed the metal clips that lock this vent into the dash before I cut it in two. After sanding, sanding, and more sanding, I was able to squeeze these into the opening of the vent, it is almost a perfect fit. The grills of the vent lock the speakers from moving forward.

Here is a couple pictures:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4152.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4150.jpg

I will use Gorilla tape to join the two pieces back together once I get the back half of the vent sealed off and stuffed with Poly fill . I will also take non-drying modeling clay to seal off the backs of the speakers from the front.

Here is a rear shot:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4151.jpg

Once I get baffle sealed off, I will wire them up in series and tape the two pieces back together. The best part is this will still remove like it should and I can replace the speakers should I blow them.

I would like to ask the forums opinion on this, should I put black speaker cloth behind the vent grills to hide them more or does this look fine like it is?

Please let me know what you think.

[J_Parker]

Personally, I'd put some grille cloth over them, it'll give it a more stealthy look as if there wasn't anything there unless closely screutenizing. The speakers just look a little bit "too busy" with the grille of the vent being kept in place. Just my $0.02 :p This sounds like a promising thred, keep up the good work man!

[x2percentmilk]

Well now, someone knows what they are doing, (orion and tang band :P)
I almost sold my brand new still in the shrink wrap orion hcca 225 a bit ago, but I just cant part with it.

Super great idea on the center channel, I wonder how it will all image. +1 on the speaker cloth, behind the vents, infront of the speakers.

[DrGonzo]

Agreed with the black cloth! It will definitely hide them and give that "Stealth" appearance overall.

[2fnloud]

On it I was leaning that way even after the post, will not be hard to do.

You like TB speakers huh? wait till I reveal my Sub box :DevilSmile:

[2fnloud]

Well now, someone knows what they are doing, (orion and tang band :P)
I almost sold my brand new still in the shrink wrap orion hcca 225 a bit ago, but I just cant part with it.

Super great idea on the center channel, I wonder how it will all image. +1 on the speaker cloth, behind the vents, infront of the speakers.

Well I am running the now older Orion HP / HCCA amplifiers, they can not be THAT bad because thier price went up like 25% on E-bay AFTER the latest Orion stuff was released.

I am not too concerned about imaging the Pioneer DEQ-P8000 also has timing alignment.

[x2percentmilk]

Oh mines an old one, i just happened to find it unopened on ebay.

[onyxice]

Awesome. lol I've been waiting for this thread. :D

[2fnloud]

OK I finished up my center channel today. I started with sealing the speaker baffle with clay on both sides, I managed to form the clay on the front side to make the front opening shaped like a horn:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4154.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4157.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4158.jpg

Back side:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4159.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4160.jpg

Then I took the vents out and covered them. Thanks for the encouragement about this guys, I knew it needed to be done was just eager to get it done. So here is what it looks like now:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4162.jpg

VERY "stealthy" right?

At this point I realized that I can not access the retaining clips behind the vent grills to remove the center vent in case I ever need to service the speakers, so I tried installing my center channel without them, turns out that the vent is lodged in the very good and I was able to remove the metal retaining clips.

From there I cut about a 1/2" off the back side of the duct. I didn't want the speaker terminals interfering with the air ducts. I then cut a plug for the rear from a plastic cutting board, glued it into place and added clay to the joint and surface of the duct to reduce any resonance that may have happened otherwise.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4165.jpg

You can also see the nuts & bolts i used to make my speaker terminals. I wired the speakers together in series making the Ohm load 8 Ohms and 30 W RMS, I will be powering 100 W RMS to them, I like head room.

Stuffed some poly fill into the enclosure and taped the two halves together with Gorilla tape. Color the "-" nut with a Sharpie this is what the back looks like:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4168.jpg

I have been able to audition my creation by hooking it up to my home theater right channel. Gave it a listen for a little bit sounded really good, actually it sounded better than the KLH speaker that I am using for my home theater. Noted this for a possible set of H/T speakers. So I know that this at least sounds decent at 80Htz and above because that is what my H/T speakers are x-over'd at.

Add my 30 bands of digital EQ as well as 2 para-metric channels I THINK I should be able to make it sound incredible.

[mk_]

Subscribed.

[KattKustomzz]

So that's your big ass Orion HCCA 2100? I wish i had one of those, Those are some beefy ass amps. You should sell me it ;P

Nice project you got going, Want to see more :)

[green-lantern]

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/My%20Saturn/W28.jpg



That is pretty massive! I'm interested in seeing what you do with this.

[2fnloud]

I sold the old school HCCA's and went with:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/Orion%20amplifiers/PICT2591.jpg

But I have even sold the two D5000's so now I have

Orion:

3 HP-4800
2 HP-2400
1 HP-4600
1 HCCA-D2400

At my disposal.

[green-lantern]

Damn! how much cash do you think you will spend on this?

[2fnloud]

Here is what I have at my disposal for my Stealth:

Pioneer AVH-P6000DVD
Pioneer AXM-P8000 (5.1 controller)
Pioneer CDX-P680 (6 Disc CD changer)
Pioneer XDV-P90 (6 Disc DVD changer)
Pioneer GEX-P910XM (XM tuner)
Pioneer AVG-VDP1 (Vehicle Dynamics Processor)
AudioControl DXS (3-way crossover)
AudioControl 24XS (2-way crossover)
AudioControl 24XS (2-way crossover)
AudioControl DQS (6 channel 30 band digital EQ)
AudioControl DDC (remote display)
Phoenix Gold Bass C.U.B.E. (BASS enhancer)
1xOrion HCCA-D2400
3xOrion HP-4800
1xOrion HP-4600
2xOrion HP-2400
2xEclipse SC8365 three-way components
1xEclipse SP6900 component 6x9's
2xTang Band W23-1287SI 2x3
4xTang Band W8-1363SB 8" Subwoofer
2xMBQuart QM200
2xDayton RS52AN-8

Things that are BOLD I know that I am not using in my install, things that are underlined I might be using.

Basically I haven't decided if I am going to run my front three-ways active or passive. Allot of that decision will be decided once I see how heavy my sub box finishes out.

The subs only weigh 4.8 LBS each and I will be building the sub box out of 1/2" thick birch to help keep the weight down.

[2fnloud]

Enough to have gotten my DR750's. MOST of this I owned before Selena (my Stealth) came into my life. So I want to use it because I will never see my money back in full if I sell it.

[green-lantern]

Enough to have gotten my DR750's. MOST of this I owned before Selena (my Stealth) came into my life. So I want to use it because I will never see my money back in full if I sell it.

I see, I was into building some pretty nice systems when I was younger but don't really fool with it much these days. I still want to build mine up better but I have other fish to fry with the car right now. I might get some advice from you later when I do. I also might take some of that equipment off your hands that you don't use if you want to get rid of it.

[2fnloud]

Cool, will let you know what I don't use. I will be willing to help you out any way that I can. Not listed in that list is a 1st Gen Alipne V12 4-channel amp, that I only used for one summer. I just didn't want to hunt down that many matching Alipne amps.

My cars have always been econo 4 bangers so sound systems and flirting with the "rice side" was all I ever knew. The Stealth opened up a whole new playing field for me.....and it is fun.

[green-lantern]

:lo5l: I have dabbled a tinge in the rice side. The thing is I mainly listen to rock so I want a ridged quick bass drum punch out of subs. I don't want much reverb going on. I'd like to replace all of the stock speakers with something really high quality and high wattage. I want to get the most I can out of those. Then replace my subs with something much better than I have now. I still want to use the box I have but I might recover it and put a flux copasator in it. ha ha

The box

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o310/hptech4564/DSCF7223.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o310/hptech4564/DSCF7225.jpg


And I really do want to install this into the box. :D

http://aaablogs.uoregon.edu/jeanelle/files/2010/11/flux-capacitor.jpeg

[2fnloud]

That is great!!

Here is my Saturn (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3839859/2001-saturn-s-series) right before I pulled the system out.

I like how you have that box built to accommodate your rear strut tower bar. Do the strut bars really make that much of a difference?

[green-lantern]

WOW you have pushed the rice limit. I must say that stereo is really impressive! You have a shitload of work in that car.

The strut bars, yeah some more than others. The 3 point Cianci I had made the car a good bit more ridged. It felt tighter in the corners. I hated to sell it but it wouldn't fit with the FMIC piping. The rear one works much better through the box than it would without the box because it's very tight. It's almost like a 3 point bar. I could feel the difference when I backed out of the garage the 1st time. It also makes the box much harder to steal. ha ha

[KattKustomzz]

I sold the old school HCCA's and went with:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/Orion%20amplifiers/PICT2591.jpg

But I have even sold the two D5000's so now I have

Orion:

3 HP-4800
2 HP-2400
1 HP-4600
1 HCCA-D2400

At my disposal.

Awe, I wanna kinda cry now, lol. The old school orion amp's were pimp, and big as shit. Dad had some, till they got stolen.. fuckin fags...

Lol, Yeah with the strut bar there, your box is going no where for sure.

[reallyxxxxxxloud]

Hey 2fnloud the Saturn looks phat.. I like it!!! Hey just with your box design you emailed me - I'd want at least 3" in front of them. 1" might be to close and cause too much compression. Give it a go and see how it sounds. Remember it doesn't matter how you design your box spec's wise as you are still putting your subbox inside another box (your car) and this will change the sound again. Your probably the only other one I know of here on 3SGTO that has a big system going in...

[2fnloud]

Hey 2fnloud the Saturn looks phat.. I like it!!!

Thank you. Seeing what you have done and you run a professional shop and I am a "tree shade" hobbyist, that compliment means allot.


Hey just with your box design you emailed me - I'd want at least 3" in front of them. 1" might be to close and cause too much compression. Give it a go and see how it sounds. Remember it doesn't matter how you design your box spec's wise as you are still putting your subbox inside another box (your car) and this will change the sound again.

I only have 12.25 maximum height. This will allow me to store my moon roof back there still. Using .5" birch, gives me 11.25 max height. Losing 3 inches would leave me with 8.5 interior height........never mind, I opened my box design and my interior dimensions are 7.25" high x 38" wide x 9.5" deep, I can go 4" in front of them. As far as graphs there are two that are different from the file you sent me, so I am confident in my revised design. I know the performance will change, I just wanted to keep tweaking my design to squeeze everything out of it. I think I will be surprising allot of people with the output of four 8's.


Your probably the only other one I know of here on 3SGTO that has a big system going in...

I wouldn't consider this THAT big of a system. What I was going to do with the Saturn install v2.0 was going big! The Saturn was going to have:

Everything that I have listed here but replace the four 8's with 2 Orion HCCA 12.2's and replace the HCCA-D2400 with two HCCA-D5000's. ALL channels were to be active x-overed. I was going all out in the Saturn. Like I mentioned then I found the Stealth, and changed directions. The only Active that MAY happen still is the front, and that will be contingent on the weight I add.

[green-lantern]

I think I will be surprising allot of people with the output of four 8's.



Speaker design has come a long way. There is no doubt you can get a bunch out of four 8's. My old bass players amp had four 8’s and it was the loudest bass amp I have heard. It had a shit load of low end, this thing had balls for sure.

[Atrosity]

Wow this looks AWESOME!

Subscribed.

[reallyxxxxxxloud]

Actually green-lantern (apart from sub woofer excursion vs output) Speaker design has taken a major step backwards. Manufacturers have now gone Chinese and it is no longer about sound quality. I'd say 80% of what was once considered good quality SQ is now $ orientated. That and the fact most people have no idea what SQ actually sounds like- funny enough.

To truly understand what SQ is. It does take training and even still most don't get it. But once you do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[J_Parker]

Agreed, brands like MTX, Audiobahn, etc have litterally gone from great, to meh. I remember my first set of subs still and wish I still had them, they were the MTX Thunder 8000's 12" I haven't had bass that sounded that clean in years. Sure things may be loud, but once you hear a really good quality thoughroughly engineered sub you'll have a new outlook on what you want to hear in bass. I hate the my subs have xxxxwatts arguments that I get into with peopl, there are some outstanding sounding subs that only have 800watts peak power. Now it's all about 3000watts, a 50lb magnet, some fancy basket machining, and cheap Chinese labour with a huge markup. Build it here, charge more for quality labour and materials, and make everyone happy is what I say.

[2fnloud]

Agreed, brands like MTX, Audiobahn, etc have litterally gone from great, to meh. I remember my first set of subs still and wish I still had them, they were the MTX Thunder 8000's 12" I haven't had bass that sounded that clean in years. Sure things may be loud, but once you hear a really good quality thoughroughly engineered sub you'll have a new outlook on what you want to hear in bass. I hate the my subs have xxxxwatts arguments that I get into with peopl, there are some outstanding sounding subs that only have 800watts peak power. Now it's all about 3000watts, a 50lb magnet and some fancy basket machining.

Sounds like they are trying to over compensate something ;)

My 8's
4.8 LBS
12mm Xmax
120 W RMS
84 dB 1W/1m

[J_Parker]

Sounds like they are trying to over compensate something ;)

My 8's
4.8 LBS
12mm Xmax
120 W RMS
84 dB 1W/1m

Haha, I think so as well. But why not compensate in the engine bay, if you want to go big! To each their own I guess. I would personally have something that sounds good, over super loud :)

If I remeber correctly my MTX's were only at around 18lbs a piece, and were very responsive, with a respectable frequency response.

[reallyxxxxxxloud]

I use to sell the MTX brand in my shop - started with the Thundercast, Blue Thunder, Road Thunder, Black Gold (awesome SQ) and yes then the Thunder 3000, 5000 and 8000. I've even owned a MTX RFL hence where my user name came from "reallyxxxxxxloud". I think that sub was one of the first to say look at me I'm 2000 rms big ass magnet and I'm mean (sounded like shit cause it was designed for spl).

I'm running the first series of Diamond Audio Hex splits. Even still Diamond has fallen to cheaper gear because of the $ chase...

[green-lantern]

Actually green-lantern (apart from sub woofer excursion vs output) Speaker design has taken a major step backwards. Manufacturers have now gone Chinese and it is no longer about sound quality. I'd say 80% of what was once considered good quality SQ is now $ orientated. That and the fact most people have no idea what SQ actually sounds like- funny enough.

To truly understand what SQ is. It does take training and even still most don't get it. But once you do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I guess I’ve been out of the game way to long. Last I was fooling with it I was amazed at what you could get out of very little.

[DrGonzo]

Tuning for Sound-Q comps and listening to the music with the naked ear are to completely different things. They might sound better when listening to music but flatten out the curve and test it with an RTA and they are horrible these days at the quality of sound that they put out.

[onebadmollafolla]

Just saw this thread. Incredible setup! I can't imagine how loud that setup is inside a hatchback car.





That is pretty massive! I'm interested in seeing what you do with this.


That's what she said.

[J_Parker]

I use to sell the MTX brand in my shop - started with the Thundercast, Blue Thunder, Road Thunder, Black Gold (awesome SQ) and yes then the Thunder 3000, 5000 and 8000. I've even owned a MTX RFL hence where my user name came from "reallyxxxxxxloud". I think that sub was one of the first to say look at me I'm 2000 rms big ass magnet and I'm mean (sounded like shit cause it was designed for spl).

I'm running the first series of Diamond Audio Hex splits. Even still Diamond has fallen to cheaper gear because of the $ chase...

Haha, I remember when I was around 15 or so I wanted an RFL soooo bad :p Just because it really was the first of it's kind.

Right now I'm running all Alpine. I have two 10" Type R's, and all Type X components. It sounds pretty good for the price I paid, but I could stand to have much better S/Q. Myabe some sound processors would help out qite a bit, but if I were to go to that extent I think I'd pick up some components of a little higher quality to justify them.

[StealthX]

I have me a 10" solo barrick in a 3 sq' custom slotted box. 1000watt (piece of crap) sony amp ( My other amp blew). She pounds. It hit 123 DB in the stock 1'x1' box. Dont know what she is at now. The wifes car had 2," solos and it sounded like crap! I put them suckers in 3 diff boxes and still couldnt get them to sound right.

[2fnloud]

I have me a 10" solo barrick in a 3 sq' custom slotted box. 1000watt (piece of crap) sony amp ( My other amp blew). She pounds. It hit 123 DB in the stock 1'x1' box. Dont know what she is at now. The wifes car had 2," solos and it sounded like crap! I put them suckers in 3 diff boxes and still couldnt get them to sound right.

Wife's car had two ?" solos.... Please fill in the "?"

[reallyxxxxxxloud]

Tuning for Sound-Q comps and listening to the music with the naked ear are to completely different things. They might sound better when listening to music but flatten out the curve and test it with an RTA and they are horrible these days at the quality of sound that they put out.

Actually a dead flat response is and will always be boring to most of us. If you EQ a system to get it all flat you will cause major issues. I use a 64 band analyser for overall measurements and I've via H/U 1/3rd octive EQ per corner. But EQing of the system is and should only be done to smoothen out the curve you already have. That curve is the direct response to placement and psychoacoustics. That's where your corrections should be done first. Time Alignment used is another area where people stuff up big time. This should only be done to pull one side closer or push it further away. Never for correcting path lengths between say the tweeter and midrange on one side (this will cause a shit load of phase problems at crossover point). I've delayed my whole front (to pull the bass a bit more up front-I have no rear speakers) and then delayed my drivers side a bit more to even the left and right side arrival times.

StealthX are they the old round Solo Barrics? they were a sweet sub. The new square units well we won't go there (uneven surface pressure on the cone causes distortion- hence why oval speakers eg 6x9s sound crap).

[2fnloud]

The Original round ones where awesome, they can still be bought because they where made for Kicker by Credence Speakers (http://credencespeakers.com/Series%20Pages/Small_Sealed_Box_Series.htm)

I was considering four of those in 8" but I wanted to keep the weight down, plus in the BassBoxPro program, the Credence 8"sub didn't out perform the Tang Band 8" enough to justify the extra weight or cost.

[GTOJOE]

subscribed :p

[StealthX]

No there the square ones. All 3 are. 1 10" and 2 8". The wife has a stealth and i built boxes (2) to specs for the 8's. Not very happy,very soft sounding. The first one was a solid box. The second box was a single box for 2 subs sloted. Still not happy.(bad design on my part) Looked good sounded like crap. so i built a single box for a single sub slotted little better. Still working on that project.

[J_Parker]

Not much for mixing sub sizes, how is it working for you? I always felt that there were dead spots in the lowere frequency range.

[2fnloud]

He wasn't mixing subs. His ride has the 10", his wifes ride the two 8's

[StealthX]

I worded that post wrong sorry. The 10 is in the 3000 and the 8's are in the stealth.( but now there both out)

[J_Parker]

I worded that post wrong sorry. The 10 is in the 3000 and the 8's are in the stealth.( but now there both out)

No worries! Had I payed a little more attention to what you had posted earlier like I should have I would've know what you were talking about lol :p

[2fnloud]

Getting ready to pack these away with the other audio equipment I thought I would reveal and share what I will be using for subwoofers.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4179-1.jpg

They are the Tang Band W8-1363SB (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-833). These subs love small vented boxes.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4180.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4181.jpg
Here you can see they have a nice fat rubber surround for an Xmax that equal common 12's (12mm)

The voice coil is wound to four layers and has a SPL: 84 dB 1W/1m which is really good for a speaker with such a long Xmax.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4189.jpg

I wouldn't call them the shallowest subs, they have a mounting depth of 4 3/4"
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4182.jpg

So far the only grip I have is that the speakers flange is not flat.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4184.jpg

This will make getting an air tight seal tricky, not as easy if the flange was flat. I could see stacking washers to fill the void so my screws don't bend the flange and use the left over modeling clay as a gasket.

I chose these because they are design for small box, only need 120 Watts RMS /speaker so I do not need a massive amp to power all four, speaker itself has numerous reviews that are positive. But my favorite thing about these speakers so far....

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4183.jpg

In case you can't read that, it reads 4.8 LBS, only 4.8 LBS /speaker!!

That is all for now.

[green-lantern]

Damn! that is light!

[2fnloud]

With the weather finally starting to warm up enough, I am able to start working on this project again.

With the hatch plastic out for the installation of my rear strut bar, I decided to start to sound deadening the hatch and hatch floor.

I went with the 25% coverage approach in order to save weight. Also when you are using products like this the main intent is to eliminate the resonance from the metal.
It has been proven that 25% coverage does this properly. I will elaborate:

I pulled my resources from Sound Deaner Showdown (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi):

The owner of SDS Don Sambrook, has been extremely helpful answering my barrage of questions. I came from the old mindset that you cover everything with the aluminum stuff and if it wasn't cutting it you just added another layer.

He isn't the cheapest, but his prices are in line with the competition, plus his website started as a info about sound deadeners before he had is own product line.

Here is what sold me on why 25% coverage is more than enough:



undamped (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/sounds/undamped.wav) | dampened (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/sounds/damped.wav)

The next step is Closed Cell Foam and Mass Loaded Vinyl (CCF & MLV):

I am undecided if I want to go this far yet in the hatch, the MLV adds allot of weight...like 1lbs per square foot. I inquired about just using the CCF but Bob explained to me that the CCF doesn't really do much by itself, it mainly acts like a vibration dampener between the MLV and metal surface you are wanting to soundproof.

Anyways enough of explaining my decision.... on to the pictures:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT4272.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT4273.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT4271.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT4270.jpg

As you can see I have more than 25% coverage on the hatch floor....oh well.

[CoopKill]

Another area you may want to deaden is behind the panels the 6x9s go in and the wheel well under the rear seats, the road noise emanates from there as well.

Looks good!

[2fnloud]

Another area you may want to deaden is behind the panels the 6x9s go in and the wheel well under the rear seats, the road noise emanates from there as well.

Looks good!

Will get there in time, I started here because the interior was out for the rear strut bar....thinking about going ahead with the CCF and MLV as well. Sense the fuel tank is a object between most of the hatch area and the road, I will skip it in the hatch area and add it with the CLD tiles in the areas that you mentioned and the floor of the car.

[2fnloud]

Just a small update, I figured out how to secure my amp rack without putting holes in the chassis of the car.

I attached these to runner boards to the car by using the plastic screw inserts that are used to hold the original compartments in place.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4281.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4280.jpg

Now I have the joy of cutting up cardboard to make a stencil that contours to the trim AND my camel hump.

[reallyxxxxxxloud]

MMM your sound deadening that you have done, covering the larger panels will give you the best "money vs results" but heres the thing. Totally doing three layers will double the noise rejection you have done there minimum. I dont deaden to save money. I do it to get rid of the maximum amount of noise. The more dense the panel the less it will ring "period".

[2fnloud]

MMM your sound deadening that you have done, covering the larger panels will give you the best "money vs results" but heres the thing. Totally doing three layers will double the noise rejection you have done there minimum. I dont deaden to save money. I do it to get rid of the maximum amount of noise. The more dense the panel the less it will ring "period".

Are you saying that my 25% coverage technique is a total lose? Or that more is still better? I didn't want my build log to turn into a debate, I just explained my logic for going with only 25% coverage, to save weight.

IF I was building an SQ competition, I would be that anal, but I am not. I still stand in the belief that the sound wave links provided. For typical use, 25% coverage significantly reduces the ringing of sheet metal.

Now if I was a SPL / SQ competitor, I will take EVERY action, do every trick in the book to squeeze every last Db or tenth of a point for clarity. So I would single, double, triple, layer my sound deadener to achieve that, but that is not what I am trying to achieve with my Stealth. I do not want the weight that 100% coverage would add, not to mention a second or third layer.

I sought out subwoofers that weigh less than 5lbs each with modest wattage ratings ans great excursion so I wouldn't need a huge and heavy amp to power them. I am attempting to achieve a outstanding system that will not horribly offset the performance of the car (wishful thinking I know but it is about finding a happy medium.)

Not everyone that builds their Stealth is trying to build a 1000AWHP monster ;)

[reallyxxxxxxloud]

Year fair enough and yes the 25% coverage will stop about 50% of the panel ring. That amount is the most effective vs $ spent. The bigger and flatter the panel is the more it will resonate!!!!

I see where your going with this now Steven. I just didn't want people (or yourself) thinking 25% is all you need to get maximum effect.

[2fnloud]

Year fair enough and yes the 25% coverage will stop about 50% of the panel ring. That amount is the most effective vs $ spent. The bigger and flatter the panel is the more it will resonate!!!!

I see where your going with this now Steven. I just didn't want people (or yourself) thinking 25% is all you need to get maximum effect.


Point taken. Mate I wish we weren't half way around globe from each other, I am sure we would share brews and design some kick ass sound systems. My template for me base board is coming along nicely. In your opinion how thin can a get away with this base board? Keep in mind that I will be mounting amps to it. I am wanting to use 1/2", think it will be stable?

[reallyxxxxxxloud]

3/4" mdf minimum for sub box and half inch is fine for your base board. Yeah I'm sure we would share some brews. You could even get away with 8mm mdf but you would need supports in the right locations to stop sagging.

[2fnloud]

Been a bit since I updated this, been busy but here we go:

Stage one: rough cut...I use pieces of card board to get a basic shape around the interior trim
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4287.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4286.jpg

Stage two I refine the template with poster board until I am satisfied with it.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4290.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4289.jpg

Stage three final cut: I trace my poster board template onto wood and cut it out.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4292.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4291.jpg

[2fnloud]

OK this "hump in the hatch has been a PITA!! After getting my amp rack finished I learn that how I wanted to layout my system wasn't going to work, so I had to redesign my sub box again. After confirming my box parameters with a tech from parts express it was time to get busy.

The stack:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4293.jpg

The assembly:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4298.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4303-1.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4301.jpg

Complete and test fitted: Exactly how I wanted it
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4306.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4305.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4304.jpg

I think the box turned out OK time will tell, being my first time building a ported box, it turned out good.

And that brings you all up to date, thanks for looking.

[reallyxxxxxxloud]

Jesus whats that thing tuned at looks low? lol just looked at the box again and its small chamber makes sence to the port length now. Sorry I couldnt help with the box design my MB died (again) and I've only just been able to get back on my comp... looking good but port would of been better all the way towards the back. But what ever... Cant wait to see it finished....

[2fnloud]

It is tuned to 42.87Hz. My only concern is that the ends of all the 1/2" are sealed......time will tell.

[reallyxxxxxxloud]

Wow Id make sure you're using a infrasonic filter (wrongly called a subsonic filter). Its tuned quite high but if you mostly listen to Techno/Hardcore/Metal that will work well.

[2fnloud]

I trust my output graphs.....I hope.

[2fnloud]

Wow Id make sure you're using a infrasonic filter (wrongly called a subsonic filter). Its tuned quite high but if you mostly listen to Techno/Hardcore/Metal that will work well.

Did some graph plotting.....

1. with the box tuned to 42.87Hz (my box I am building) 30" long port. Red
2. with the box tuned to 38.29Hz (recommended by by BassBoxPro6 with the Vb that my enclosure is) 38" long port. Cyan
3. with the box tuned to 30.00Hz (Fs of the speaker I am using) 63" long port. Orange

Normalized Amplitude response @30Hz:
1. -5.02Db
2. -3.75Db
1. -2.55Db

It takes what, a 10Db gain for the human ear to perceive double the volume. Is the box tuned to it's optimum frequency, it would appear not. But what I built should be very decent sounding.

Not only do I have a infrasonic filter...I have THE infrasonic filte....I have a Bass C.U.B.E. ;) You even sent me the "top secret" tech bulletin for it.

[mk_]

Your pics of the deadening bring back bad memories of deadening everything on my stealth in the middle of January in Buffalo (**COLD**). Vowed I would never do it again, but once it was all over it was so worth it. When do you anticipate the completion of this project?

[2fnloud]

I REALLY want to have it done for NG but I don't think it is going to happen, I work on it when I can, as long as I can.

[reallyxxxxxxloud]

Did some graph plotting.....

1. with the box tuned to 42.87Hz (my box I am building) 30" long port. Red
2. with the box tuned to 38.29Hz (recommended by by BassBoxPro6 with the Vb that my enclosure is) 38" long port. Cyan
3. with the box tuned to 30.00Hz (Fs of the speaker I am using) 63" long port. Orange

Normalized Amplitude response @30Hz:
1. -5.02Db
2. -3.75Db
1. -2.55Db

It takes what, a 10Db gain for the human ear to perceive double the volume. Is the box tuned to it's optimum frequency, it would appear not. But what I built should be very decent sounding.

Not only do I have a infrasonic filter...I have THE infrasonic filte....I have a Bass C.U.B.E. ;) You even sent me the "top secret" tech bulletin for it.

I wasn't suggesting the infrasonic filter because of output but for the protection of the sub as it will unload below port freq tune. And as a fair bit of music has notes below your tuning Id be careful. If you listen to the types of music I suggested then you should be fine but if your into Crunk etc then yeah I'm glad you have your bass cube. Also output isnt a concern as you will get a decent transfer function @20hz being a hatch. My main concern was its high tuning and sub unloading below tuned freq causing damage to it.

[reallyxxxxxxloud]

Dam friggin double posts GRRR

[2fnloud]

Dam friggin double posts GRRR

You can delete it... OK I follow you. I got a chance to demo one box today. VERY crude method, I connected the box up to my receiver in my garage, tuned in a radio station and tuned into the same station with the car radio. The home receiver is only 75 watts RMS it sounded good.

I am going to be satisfied with this, I won't be setting SPL records obviously...but that wasn't my intent with this.

[reallyxxxxxxloud]

Yeah but in car you could be up to 12 db gain...

[2fnloud]

OK I didn't get as much done as I would of liked to but I got out to the hardware for "T" nuts and threaded rod for the battery tie downs.

Here is the over all view:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4313.jpg

Passenger side Batcap with the access hole cut out for the wires to run under the subfloor.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4316.jpg


Driver side Batcap with the access hole cut out for the wires to run under the subfloor.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4317.jpg

The subfloor is where I will mount the Pioneer Vehicle Dynamic Processor and other thing that you would never access on a regular basis. The the rail attached to the sub woofer enclosures will support the board that the amps will mount to.

[2fnloud]

Battery placement
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4327.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4328.jpg

Sub enclosure placement
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4329.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4330.jpg

Amp rack
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4331.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Sub%20Box/PICT4332.jpg

That brings everyone up to speed, I am currently playing with carboard and duct tape again to the trim pieces that will hide the batteries and tie the installation into the interior of the car.

[2fnloud]

What is in the box?
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4338.jpg

Oh yeah!
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/Stuff.jpg

Time to get to work.... ;)

[CoopKill]

Man I want to hear that setup so bad.. Thinking after I get all the other crap installed I will be doing a similar setup... NICE!

[j2k4]

Wanna see all that in Indy.

[2fnloud]

Wanna see all that in Indy.

I am trying.
Here is a small update, another part came in the mail today, this was custom very reasonably priced I feel as well.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4339.jpg

It is a BUSS bar, I will be removing the battery from under the hood, so this will allow me to connect the ground wire kit to one point.

I will attach it to some ABS plastic (on order) akin to what was shown on Stealth316.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4340.jpg

I just will not be running a ground from front to rear like Jeff did.

Here is the bar testing the fitting of all the ring terminals.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4341.jpg

The shiny one will ground the block to the fire wall, the two open spots are for the factory wire...redundant I know but hey they are there, why not use them.

[ictponder]

I'm glad you are being so thorough, it's looking really good.

[3000GTCSULB]

Very impressive build.

[2fnloud]

Very impressive build.
Thank You.

[2fnloud]

I figured since this car is a weekend driver (if that) why not incorporate a built in battery maintainers?

So I came up with this:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4344.jpg

I just used an old game cord spliced into an outlet plug.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4345.jpg

Add two Deltran Battery Tender Jr.s

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4346.jpg

A circuit breaker to easily separate the two batteries.

End of the day, pop the hatch, lift an access panel, pop the C/B pull out the cord, close the hatch, plug the cord in and not have to worry if my batteries are fully charged or not.

[CoopKill]

Be careful with the battery tenders and your ecu if on the same circuit. I think it was AEM or? that was getting fried from battery tenders. Might check further into it. I think I read a thread on 3sidiot....

[2fnloud]

I highly doubt 750mA will harm anything, but when I switch to AEM I will contact them about this issue.

I found what you where referring to here:


Issue Description: 1311-0378- was working for 8 months or so then one day it started running funny. Now, the car has no fuel or spark. Car starts on the stock ECU. Inspect unit.

Issue Resolution: Inspected unit and found damaged internal circuitry for main relay. Will have to repair and replace components in order for unit to be fully functional again.

The amount due to proceed with Repairs/Labor will cost $654.00. For payment please fill out the attached AEM Credit Card Authorization form. Fax the signed form to 310-484-0152. Your RMA number is B44A36473A.

OMFG!

So, they said the main relay went bad? Said my charger at 15a quick charge can fry ECU's. Didnt know that. So what would cause that to fry the ecu? The trickle charge? I did that to my car whenever its was cold or I
wasnt driving it. I never changed anything electrical. Just the turbo timer.

talked to one of the techs, took off $75 bucks. Said if I pay early tomm, they can have it shipped out tommorrow and possibly be here fri or sat!! Now, where can I scrounge up $579 dollars!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


OMFG!!!!!! im sad. I think after I get the box back im gonna sell it. Too expensive and honestly just draining...money and mentally.

I think at 750mA will be fine.

[j2k4]

Yeah, that's the thread.

[2fnloud]

It has been awhile since an update, I was waiting for things to come in so I could keep progressing.

The hold up was:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT4363.jpg

That is 1"x 1/8" x 50' neoprene whether stripping. If the interior trim touches the chassis or overlaps itself, this stuff is a gasket to attempt to eliminate rattles.

Here is a couple shots of places I installed it:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT4364.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT4362.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT4365.jpg

[2fnloud]

I also placed everything in the hatch area to check for fitment and to secure the battery tie-down panels to the chassis.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4366.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4367.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Amp%20Rack/PICT4368.jpg

The third amplifier will be on a pedestal centered and above the other two amplifiers.

Then I was able to carpet and place my distribution blacks that I will have no need to access after the install is complete. I was also able to start running power wire, I forgor how much of a PITA it is working with 1/0GA. All of this is underneath the amp rack board, so look now once covered it is hidden for good or until I need to fix something.....LOL

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4375.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4377.jpg

[ictponder]

Lookin really good, I need to bring the wife out one of these weekends and supervise (:drink:) while you work on this beast lol

[2fnloud]

Or run some wires through my driver's door for my window module ;)

[j2k4]

Steve, you're going to use that stuff on your hatch trim, too, no?

That's where the only rattles I have are coming from.

[2fnloud]

Oh yes I will be.

[futurevr4man]

you listen here, you. this thing better be at NG and it better be sounding good.

i know where you will be sleeping...

[2fnloud]

I am trying but, at worse I can show off a pretty hatch area.....;)

I dropped off my "A" Pillars to a trusted friend to glass in my tweeter pods then wrap them in vinyl. I got a spare set of plastic one for this. My original's are untouched. Actually, the only non-reversible thing done to the car was I cut holes into the base of the hatch trim so my RCA's, speaker wires, and power wires can run to the front of the car.

My goal was to make EVERYTHING reversible back to stock. I haven't even put a screw into the chassis, and don't plan on it.

[ictponder]

I am trying but, at worse I can show off a pretty hatch area.....;)

I dropped off my "A" Pillars to a trusted friend to glass in my tweeter pods then wrap them in vinyl. I got a spare set of plastic one for this. My original's are untouched. Actually, the only non-reversible thing done to the car was I cut holes into the base of the hatch trim so my RCA's, speaker wires, and power wires can run to the front of the car.

My goal was to make EVERYTHING reversible back to stock. I haven't even put a screw into the chassis, and don't plan on it.

Aww cmon, hacking up your car is the cool thing to do these days.

[CoopKill]

I am trying but, at worse I can show off a pretty hatch area.....;)

I dropped off my "A" Pillars to a trusted friend to glass in my tweeter pods then wrap them in vinyl. I got a spare set of plastic one for this. My original's are untouched. Actually, the only non-reversible thing done to the car was I cut holes into the base of the hatch trim so my RCA's, speaker wires, and power wires can run to the front of the car.

My goal was to make EVERYTHING reversible back to stock. I haven't even put a screw into the chassis, and don't plan on it.

Did you use caulk or? To secure the box mounting framing? Meaning the wood that spans the spare tire area...

Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using Tapatalk

[2fnloud]

I secured two hardwood beams to the car by screwing them into the plastic inserts that are used to secure the cuby trays around the spare tire.

I also am going to use the spare tire tie down bolt to secure it even more...trust me it will be safely secure.

[green-lantern]

Looking good man!

[2fnloud]

Today I tackled to fun job of pulling the battery from the engine bay, installing BigTyla's ground kit and Ninja's 75 Amp fuel power kit.

Most on my morning went installing the ground kit, 1/0 GA wire made doing it per the directions....interesting. I ended going from grounding buss bar to T/B...T/B to back head...back head to front head. grounding buss bar to firewall. Alternator bracket to the A/C tie down point instead of the rad bracket. The transmission the the grounding buss bar, and finally the firewall to the engine. Turned out that grounding point wasn't doing anything,

Afternoon / evening building and installing this:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4387.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4388.jpg

If you wonder why I mentioned "buss bar and not bat terminal:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4389.jpg
Because there isn't a bat terminal to terminate to.

Installed in place of the battery:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4391.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4392.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4393.jpg

I am hoping that empty void will be big enough to install meth injection when I get to that point.

Then I installed Ninja performance's 75 amp fuel power upgrade kit.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4395.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Wiring/PICT4394.jpg

That also goes without saying that I have the dual batcap 2000s in place and integrated into the electrical system. 14.35V at the batteries while the car is running. I should measure wattage under the hood, should be close to that as well.

[2fnloud]

OK I managed to get my rear 6x9's installed before NG, I wasn't about to go on a 6 hour drive without tunes.

First:
I hit the original plastic with an entire can of rubberized undercoating
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Rear%20Speakers/PICT4412.jpg
You can also see the neoprene gasket that I used to help seal the enclosure against the chassis.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Rear%20Speakers/PICT4413.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Rear%20Speakers/PICT4414.jpg
I still ended up needing to use non-hardening clay to proper;y seal the enclosure against the chassis.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Rear%20Speakers/PICT4415.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Rear%20Speakers/PICT4416.jpg

I even had to use the clay to properly seal the speaker to the enclosure, I needed about a 1/4" more depth. I am not concerned about the clay keeping the seal because of the 2" port that is incorporated into the factory enclosure.

The final touch to the rear speakers that you can not see is the poly fill that I put into the enclosure with the speakers.

[IPD]

wow. after all that trouble, and you're keeping the 6x9's. :) i'd have thought you'd upgrade to 8" or something.

[2fnloud]

wow. after all that trouble, and you're keeping the 6x9's. :) i'd have thought you'd upgrade to 8" or something.

What the 4 eights in the rear are not enough?

[IPD]

What the 4 eights in the rear are not enough?

should have gone with 4 x 10" back there. :p serioiusly though, i'd really like to put 10" on the sides, but it would require a lot of modding.

beautiful work thus far! did you rip the cloth off the rear speaker panel covers? i did it on mine. wash & scrub for 2 minutes in a sink, and it's a lovely black. incidentally, it matches my custom from speaker panel covers very well.

p.s.
what did you use for spacers on the 6x9's? the magnet on my pioneers also sticks out a bit too far. i didn't use any spacers, i just tightened the screws down until the gap was equal on all sides.

[2fnloud]

should have gone with 4 x 10" back there. :p serioiusly though, i'd really like to put 10" on the sides, but it would require a lot of modding.

beautiful work thus far! did you rip the cloth off the rear speaker panel covers? i did it on mine. wash & scrub for 2 minutes in a sink, and it's a lovely black. incidentally, it matches my custom from speaker panel covers very well.

p.s.
what did you use for spacers on the 6x9's? the magnet on my pioneers also sticks out a bit too far. i didn't use any spacers, i just tightened the screws down until the gap was equal on all sides.

I didn't rip the cloth off, I did the same thing you did, and used black non-hardening modeling clay to seal the speaker. Seal the speaker, I literally could here the characteristics of the speaker change as I sealed it off.

[IPD]

I didn't rip the cloth off, I did the same thing you did, and used black non-hardening modeling clay to seal the speaker. Seal the speaker, I literally could here the characteristics of the speaker change as I sealed it off.

i'm not THAT much of an audiophile. and like i said, i'd like to put some subs in there someday. i've got enough high-end with the 220gto's & the coaxial 6.5's in the doors.

[j2k4]

Looking fan-tastic, Steve.

Love to hear that.

Wish mine was here; stereo is more-or-less next...fraaking turbos.:shake2:

[sketch]

Why was this build log never finished

[2fnloud]

Why was this build log never finished

is on "pause" it WILL be finished.

[sketch]

is on "pause" it WILL be finished.

i figured as much. my post also loses part of it's intended comedic effect when my all caps is changed into all lowercase by the forum >_<

[2fnloud]

i figured as much. my post also loses part of it's intended comedic effect when my all caps is changed into all lowercase by the forum >_<

I will be getting back into it once the nights are warm, about the only time I get to work on it. Steve does not pull and pry old plastic interior parts when it is cold, they are brittle enough as is.

[2fnloud]

I have been thinking about a way to add a 4th amp so my front stage can be active x-over vs passive x-over. I have all the equipment to do so, need need to come up with good layout.

[sketch]

what about on the underside of the hatch? I've been toying with that idea myself - you'd have to get slightly creative with how to properly attach it (maybe a couple small pieces of wood between the attached to the hatch metal sandwiched between the hatch plastics) but it's doable

[2fnloud]

You should not mount an amp upside down, the amp's heatsink will not be nearly as efficient. PLUS routing all the wiring would be a pain / cluster mess.

[Streamln1]

you could do a layered amp rack, depending on the size theres enough room between the strut towers for 4 amps if you do it right.

[2fnloud]

you could do a layered amp rack, depending on the size theres enough room between the strut towers for 4 amps if you do it right.

I have a handle on it thanks anyways

[2fnloud]

Stream the biggest thing I have against stacking is you can not display all you amplifiers. I am all about the show with my amp racks.

[2fnloud]

I needed to swap out my new part from the dealership (the big hatch trim that covers the rear wiper motor)

So I thought I would address the rattles that the trim could create and wow does the three small trim pieces make quite a bit of noise when you tapped on them....well they used to. ;) Let's just say that 1/8" thick closed cell foam with stick back is a great thing

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT5126.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT5127.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT5128.jpg

All the black squares are the closed cell foam.

Then line the edges of the plastic trim:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT5130.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT5131.jpg

Now the pieces pass the "finger thumping" test, no more rattles.

Hopefully more to come, I need to take out the amp rack and driver side stuff to figure out what is catching and holding up the cable to my hatch release.

[CoreyB]

I need to do that as well.

[2fnloud]

I need to do that as well.

Got it here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-x-1-Black-Single-Sided-Foam-Glazing-Tape-/300699780568?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item46031a85d8)

[2fnloud]

Wrapped my passenger "A" pillar tonight:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/A%20Pillars/PICT5139.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/A%20Pillars/PICT5140.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/A%20Pillars/PICT5141.jpg

I am having a lifting problem in that concave curve where the "A" pillar trim meets the dash, I only used 3M's "Super 77" multipurpose spray adhesive to do this job, I have to try 3M's Hi-Strength 90 to keep the vinyl bonded to that area, there is a lot of force to fight in that area.

Anyone with experience here, I would greatly love some advise.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Did you try heat?


Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

[2fnloud]

heat is for stretch, at least I thought. I need to get the 3M Hi-Strength spray adhesive, that will take care of my lifting issue. The minor wrinkles will not be noticeable, that is from the streatching.

[ictponder]

Get the 3M 90 Adhesive, spray on both surfaces until they are tacky but not sticky enough to peel off (you want it to kinda feel like the 3M double sided vinyl tape to the touch) Make sure you don't go too thin, you want the ENTIRE surface to have an even coat of spray. I would use a stronger glue to hold the vinyl to the back o f the plastic like a super glue or a hardening epoxy.

[2fnloud]

beyond that....what do you think?

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

heat is for stretch, at least I thought. I need to get the 3M Hi-Strength spray adhesive, that will take care of my lifting issue. The minor wrinkles will not be noticeable, that is from the streatching.

The tightness is what us causing the glue to not hold, right?

Use the heat to get the material closer to the correct shape and the glue wont work so hard.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

[2fnloud]

I will use heat as well as a stronger glue and report back.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Please do seems like a neat project.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

[Streamln1]

Get the 3M 90 Adhesive, spray on both surfaces until they are tacky but not sticky enough to peel off (you want it to kinda feel like the 3M double sided vinyl tape to the touch) Make sure you don't go too thin, you want the ENTIRE surface to have an even coat of spray. I would use a stronger glue to hold the vinyl to the back o f the plastic like a super glue or a hardening epoxy.

3M sucks for vinyl, we use Dap weldwood landau top adhesive, the stuff that comes in a blue can. Nothing in a spray bottle comes close

[2fnloud]

I was hoping you would chime in

[2fnloud]

3M sucks for vinyl, we use Dap weldwood landau top adhesive, the stuff that comes in a blue can. Nothing in a spray bottle comes close

can only be bought in 1 or 5 gallon?

[j2k4]

can only be bought in 1 or 5 gallon?

3M vinyl top adhesive was really tough stuff, as I remember.

Stop by your favorite body shop and see if they'll sell you a pint or so, Steve.

[2fnloud]

I have found that contact cement is also used in the upholstery industry.

[Streamln1]

weldwood is contact cement, its not the same consistency as the stuff you can buy at home depot tho, the landau top adhesive is awesome. Best method is to use a cheap air sprayer i/e one of those $20 air guns they have at harbor freight. Give it a nice thorough coat on both sides, let it tack up for about a minute and it will hold and not let go, but be careful and go slow, because its an absolute bitch to pull off if you want to start over again. Use a heat gun too.

[2fnloud]

Streamlin1,

Can I PM you to discuss with you my decision to go active or passive in my front stage?

[Boost4VR4]

weldwood is contact cement, its not the same consistency as the stuff you can buy at home depot tho, the landau top adhesive is awesome. Best method is to use a cheap air sprayer i/e one of those $20 air guns they have at harbor freight. Give it a nice thorough coat on both sides, let it tack up for about a minute and it will hold and not let go, but be careful and go slow, because its an absolute bitch to pull off if you want to start over again. Use a heat gun too.


Streamlin1,

Can I PM you to discuss with you my decision to go active or passive in my front stage?

Are we talking about the interior door panels here? I have a process that has worked well for me, I am about to compile and post it up in the next week or so.

If that vinyl wrap is wrapping over a gauge pod there, then I suggest cutting contour triangles in the vinyl that need to be smoothed there the gauges will mount and pull the vinyl inwards so it stretches smooth. You can use heat to move the vinyl around on the adhesive and also heat to stretch it a little. If it is textured vinyl, be careful how much heat you apply as it will marr the texture.

[2fnloud]

Are we talking about the interior door panels here? I have a process that has worked well for me, I am about to compile and post it up in the next week or so.

If that vinyl wrap is wrapping over a gauge pod there, then I suggest cutting contour triangles in the vinyl that need to be smoothed there the gauges will mount and pull the vinyl inwards so it stretches smooth. You can use heat to move the vinyl around on the adhesive and also heat to stretch it a little. If it is textured vinyl, be careful how much heat you apply as it will marr the texture.

No Kevin, we are talking about "A" pillars

[Streamln1]

sure man fire away

[n2nsanity]

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/My%20Saturn/W28.jpg


Holy hell man, how are you not deaf? lol

[2fnloud]

What!?

[n2nsanity]

lol
seriously looks like you could power a house with that setup :p

[2fnloud]

lol
seriously looks like you could power a house with that setup :p


The old school HCCA amplifiers were bad to the bone, the system was a modest 1,200 watts RMS. Most bass amplifiers now a days runs that alone. Plus what you are not seeing is the two yellow top batteries and 4 1F capacitors under the amp rack. ;)

[2fnloud]

I have not given up on this:

some minor progress:

https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t31.0-8/10321679_10152358592205470_5482569979445003474_o.j pg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31.0-8/1016031_10152358592040470_3216618244886644996_o.jp g

[j2k4]

THAT'S the way they should look - VERY nice! :)

[hdorre]

Very nice! I love the finish! Ill be glassing my a pillars too.

How do you like the off axis mounting?

I have an idea on what works for my tweets.. Im just getting an idea on what works for our car.

[2fnloud]

I have not heard them yet and every speaker is different, my research revealed that the tweeters to this component set up sounds VERY good at off axis positioning. I am sure my T/A will make it that much better.

Also yes this was fiber glassed, but then wrapped in a automotive vinyl that matched the original vinyl wrapped A-pillars to appear like stock.

[hdorre]

Nice to know ;)

Question about the pillars.. Did you remove all the factory vinyl before you attached the rings and dowels?

[2fnloud]

I used non-vinyl wrapped A-Pillars. and the tweeter was a cup that I used non hardening model clay as a temporary adhesion to attach the cup to the A-pillar to find the ideal location, from there I screwed the cup to the permanent location.

Since this was not a huge area to build up, filler like tiger hair was used to form around the cup.

BUT if you was to use pieces that have vinyl, I would strip it first.

[green-lantern]

I needed to swap out my new part from the dealership (the big hatch trim that covers the rear wiper motor)

So I thought I would address the rattles that the trim could create and wow does the three small trim pieces make quite a bit of noise when you tapped on them....well they used to. ;) Let's just say that 1/8" thick closed cell foam with stick back is a great thing

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT5126.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT5127.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT5128.jpg

All the black squares are the closed cell foam.

Then line the edges of the plastic trim:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT5130.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Sound%20Deadening/PICT5131.jpg

Now the pieces pass the "finger thumping" test, no more rattles.

Hopefully more to come, I need to take out the amp rack and driver side stuff to figure out what is catching and holding up the cable to my hatch release.

All the pics are dead

[2fnloud]

I need to address my bandwidth use, I think it was my signature on this forum, I have it hosted here now, and deleted off my Photobucket account.

[2fnloud]

I did a test install of the driver's side to make sure that I was happy with the rotated position of the faces of the gauges:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31.0-8/10295497_10152364697995470_4247480062077250594_o.j pg

https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t31.0-8/10321203_10152364698005470_5902662680441361509_o.j pg

https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/t31.0-8/10295501_10152364698015470_6844150904943598914_o.j pg

https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t31.0-8/10329925_10152364698155470_2262767622415708588_o.j pg

Now to start preparing the wiring so I can get this installed.

[2fnloud]

Routed the wiring for under the driver's A-Pillar, I extended all pigtails so that the connections will be in the dash, not behind the A-Pillar. This will be easier to install the part and not have to guess if I am pinching wires.

https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t31.0-8/1507303_10152366449750470_805248454022244624_o.jpg

ALL wires are laying perfectly flat so that they will fit between the plastic and the A-Pillar:
https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t31.0-8/1016037_10152366450835470_3858359744079150966_o.jp g

[hdorre]

Gotta love Gorilla Tape when running wires :D

[2fnloud]

The stuff sticks so well.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Steve, don't take this the wrong way, but I have a hard time with the eloquence of your leather wrapped pillars being combined with the yellow carbon fiber accents.

[green-lantern]

The stuff sticks so well.

I used it to fix rips in my vert top. :D


Steve, don't take this the wrong way, but I have a hard time with the eloquence of your leather wrapped pillars being combined with the yellow carbon fiber accents.

:stupid:

Might be time to swap out the CF trim with something different. If you like it that's all that matters though. It could just be the flash of the camera.

[2fnloud]

I love it Paul, and it is most likely the flash, the pillars look color / texture wise no different than what was there before. I have also been told that the dashkit looks better in person than photos (Ohiospyderman)

[green-lantern]

I love it Paul, and it is most likely the flash, the pillars look color / texture wise no different than what was there before. I have also been told that the dashkit looks better in person than photos (Ohiospyderman)

The flash makes it pop out for sure. The car looked great at NG.

[2fnloud]

I think it is the epoxy coating reflecting the flash.

[spaceace60]

[QUOTE=2fnloud;44172]I decided that I would bring over the Pioneer equipment that I had in my Saturn, this meant I have 5.1 DTS and Dolby Music II available. So I start with the biggest stealth challenge, getting my center channel without just putting Pioneer's center speaker pod on the dash.

This is what I did with my Saturn and I hated how it looked. Sounded great, just looked too non OEM for my liking. I thought about installing my center channel into the center vents of my Stealth. I read about doing this on Suthnr's 212 HP Stereo page, thanks for sharing Eric, that install is inspiring. So I spent the whole summer with them closed to see if I could do without them, I didn't miss them at all so I picked up another center vent piece and went to work.
1st off nice install and some nice orions ect! just wondering if you were only using center channel while watching movies in 5.1 surround ect? as some people might not be aware that running a center ch. while listening to regular audio would probably kill the sound stage(would make it sound mono) due to the fact that even w/all todays technology most music is still on recorded the old fashion way simple left/right 2ch im not sure maybe some processors may have away around all this(by not playing center at certain times?)but if you don't have a 5.1 processor its deffinately detrimental to your stereo imaging! im glad to see that some owners are starting to put in some serious audio in these cars and not just putting all their $ into going fast! for yrs I wondered why few people put any real systems into this platform a cool car deserves great sound too!!

The biggest problem was to find a speaker that would fit there and give the fullest sound possible. I based my judgment against the Freq response that the Pioneer speaker pod had, according to Pioneer the speaker pod has a Freq range of 140Hz ~ 30kHz.

I found a Tang Band speaker that has a Freq range of 150Hz ~ 20,000kHz, I figured that this would be close enough plus the shape of this speaker is what appealed to me the most. It's dimensions are 2"x3" with a cutout of 1-13/16" x 3-3/8". I ended up sanding the long side of the speaker flanges down to get them to fit how I wanted but I think I achieved success.

1st off nice install and some nice orions ect! just wondering if you were only using center channel while watching movies in 5.1 surround ect? as some people might not be aware that running a center ch. while listening to regular audio would probably kill the sound stage(would make it sound mono) due to the fact that even w/all todays technology most music is still on recorded the old fashion way simple left/right 2ch im not sure maybe some processors may have away around all this(by not playing center at certain times?)but if you don't have a 5.1 processor its deffinately detrimental to your stereo imaging! im glad to see that some owners are starting to put in some serious audio in these cars and not just putting all their $ into going fast! for yrs I wondered why few people put any real systems into this platform a cool car deserves great sound too!!

[sketch]

good to see this thread get a bump
and to see the AV subforum get some action, too. this place needs more readers & posters

[2fnloud]

I need better garage and more time.

[2fnloud]

[QUOTE=2fnloud;44172]I decided that I would bring over the Pioneer equipment that I had in my Saturn, this meant I have 5.1 DTS and Dolby Music II available. So I start with the biggest stealth challenge, getting my center channel without just putting Pioneer's center speaker pod on the dash.

This is what I did with my Saturn and I hated how it looked. Sounded great, just looked too non OEM for my liking. I thought about installing my center channel into the center vents of my Stealth. I read about doing this on Suthnr's 212 HP Stereo page, thanks for sharing Eric, that install is inspiring. So I spent the whole summer with them closed to see if I could do without them, I didn't miss them at all so I picked up another center vent piece and went to work.
1st off nice install and some nice orions ect! just wondering if you were only using center channel while watching movies in 5.1 surround ect? as some people might not be aware that running a center ch. while listening to regular audio would probably kill the sound stage(would make it sound mono) due to the fact that even w/all todays technology most music is still on recorded the old fashion way simple left/right 2ch im not sure maybe some processors may have away around all this(by not playing center at certain times?)but if you don't have a 5.1 processor its deffinately detrimental to your stereo imaging! im glad to see that some owners are starting to put in some serious audio in these cars and not just putting all their $ into going fast! for yrs I wondered why few people put any real systems into this platform a cool car deserves great sound too!!

The biggest problem was to find a speaker that would fit there and give the fullest sound possible. I based my judgment against the Freq response that the Pioneer speaker pod had, according to Pioneer the speaker pod has a Freq range of 140Hz ~ 30kHz.

I found a Tang Band speaker that has a Freq range of 150Hz ~ 20,000kHz, I figured that this would be close enough plus the shape of this speaker is what appealed to me the most. It's dimensions are 2"x3" with a cutout of 1-13/16" x 3-3/8". I ended up sanding the long side of the speaker flanges down to get them to fit how I wanted but I think I achieved success.

1st off nice install and some nice orions ect! just wondering if you were only using center channel while watching movies in 5.1 surround ect? as some people might not be aware that running a center ch. while listening to regular audio would probably kill the sound stage(would make it sound mono) due to the fact that even w/all todays technology most music is still on recorded the old fashion way simple left/right 2ch im not sure maybe some processors may have away around all this(by not playing center at certain times?)but if you don't have a 5.1 processor its deffinately detrimental to your stereo imaging! im glad to see that some owners are starting to put in some serious audio in these cars and not just putting all their $ into going fast! for yrs I wondered why few people put any real systems into this platform a cool car deserves great sound too!!

Thank you, and yes I have the pioneer 5.1 processor, I also have the Arc Audio PS8 to control X-over, Timing Alignment and EQ. (Think of this as the AEM of car audio tuning) I Let the 5.1 processor run dolby music mix ran it it the past and yet to have a judge tell me that my imaging was wack.

[2fnloud]

OK started laying out my hatch once again, still keeping the general layout idea, but without the rear batcaps, and with those gone, I didn't need the charging station seen in the lower center of this picture:

http://i.imgur.com/zxSAG8e.jpg

I was thinking that this cubby would no longer serve a purpose but:

http://i.imgur.com/nTzP6hM.jpg

It will serve as a cubby to hold my fused distribution block. Right now it isn't much, but as parts of various projects come in it will button up real fast as I prep for NG. The goal will be to get it how it was before I took everything out to remove the Batcap 2000's and fix my hatch release cable.

[Streamln1]

Those pillars look nice its not easy to wrap into a small tweeter hole like that

[2fnloud]

Got what will probably be the most difficult trim panel measured, cut, coated and installed.

http://i.imgur.com/BbEH6OF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WPJv6Vb.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/gvKmzkB.jpg

[green-lantern]

Man! that looks terrific Steve!

Did you get the mud flaps installed?

[Jimvr4]

Very meticulous Steve :D

[j2k4]

Got what will probably be the most difficult trim panel measured, cut, coated and installed.

http://i.imgur.com/BbEH6OF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WPJv6Vb.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/gvKmzkB.jpg


Very meticulous Steve :D


The two of you have that in common.



Regular people say "anal", btw. :p

[2fnloud]

I would LOVE to do a system for a Spyder

[green-lantern]

I would LOVE to do a system for a Spyder

Not a lot of room in the back when the top is down.

[2fnloud]

I have seen one Paul, kinda remember what room there is around the top computer right behind the seat, it wouldn't be a heavy bass system, but there are now 6.5" and 5.25" subwoofers, and their xmax (cone travel) trumps 10's and 12's from the 90's.

[Jimvr4]

There's the slot where the CD changer is now (mine is disconnected). This and the top computer sit along side the pumps along a brace that connects the shock towers. No real space there.

The spare tire area is an option but sound quality would suck with the top down. What I've seen done is rear seat modification or removal and install the system in the rear seat area.

[j2k4]

What I've seen done is rear seat modification or removal and install the system in the rear seat area.

Got a plan to do that, Jim - Steve has helped me dope it out, so he can brief you. :)

[2fnloud]

I would focus on getting the most low end out of a woofer placed in the door, and then sound deaden and seal off the door as best as possible to get that audible bottom end to be louder, may be even use the rear speaker location to house a pair of 5.25" subs, recess them so the surround would not hit the grill's backside.

Then make the housing bigger with fiberglassing, again this probably wouldn't be teeth shacking bass, but should sound very nice.

[Jimvr4]

Interesting ideas :)

Their rear 6x9 location presents a big challenge as the depth is compromised by the pistons for the top mechanism. People have discovered that many aftermarket 6x9 can't fit the depth. Might be a better choice to get some Q panels and modify them to remove the grills and figure an attractive way to mount the subs.

[2fnloud]

I could also see replacing the grill with a properly made piece that would allow you to surface mount a sub, maybe even step it up to an 8" then

[2fnloud]

Was able to load the driver's subwoofer box today:

http://i.imgur.com/hlsLPGk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hSibaoK.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/FnBUekU.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/YFTmyxV.jpg

Used Bassboxpro6 to design the box. Vb is .402 FT3 tuned to 42.87Hz resulted in a flat output that tapers off like a sealed enclosure.
http://i.imgur.com/ZnfTHdg.jpg

[j2k4]

When are you gonna drop it in, Steve?

[2fnloud]

Was thinking today, but the controller for the led lighting I want to use will be mounted in there, so it may get held up waiting for that.

[Jimvr4]

Love how your new subs look like rims :)

[2fnloud]

I have the driver's side installed, dark photo's but wanted to share, will get better ones tomorrow:

http://i.imgur.com/vD8vcpI.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/qYGgcKa.jpg

Need to clean up the panels from sanding the pieces in attempt to get a perfect fit.

[CoreyB]

Looking great cuz!!

[2fnloud]

Thanks, hoping to get the passenger side done before the weather gets uber cold.

[2fnloud]

Better lighting, better pictures, cleaned a lil better too

http://i.imgur.com/5s3b080.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/aOSFq30.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/EtZwSEw.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/01IGWgG.jpg

[j2k4]

Still gonna have good, usable space, too.

Well done, sir. :)

[2fnloud]

That "good, useable space" is where two amps and two or three sound processors are going. the only useable space will be the rear seats folded down, but that is enough for a weekend get a way with the Mrs. ;)

[2fnloud]

Spent some time carefully routing speaker wire while labeling it so when the amps get installed it is just a matter of putting holes in the amp board for the wires to come up through. I also have speaker pins, cable pants and colored heat shrink to make the ends of the wire clean and color coded.
http://i.imgur.com/RqIjFHQ.jpg

[2fnloud]

Also weighed a loaded sub box, 32LBS so two boxes 64 LBS, willing to bet that amp rack, wiring, disto blocks, and trim panels are another 32LBS and the amps are 7.3LBS each,

whole sound system will be around 125LBS....not bad for trying to keep it light.

[j2k4]

KLEEN!!

Looks great, Steve - makes me wanna do some of that. :wink:

[2fnloud]

Took the time to secure my sub boxes before getting all the trim installed today:

http://i.imgur.com/GfkFrLQ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HN4Ld6m.jpg

Then got all my trim pieces installed:

http://i.imgur.com/El9jt1P.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/n5bLmrC.jpg

The only thing left to go is extend the false floor to the seat backs and add a dividing wall to separate the amp area from the rest of the space:

http://i.imgur.com/FhwFAhl.jpg

[j2k4]

^^That's why we call you GU^^ :D

[2fnloud]

Today I ordered my amplifiers, they should be available in about a week. What I did today was reminiscent to Kindergarten...I shall call this work done today "Glue, Sticks, and Things". Working on the final false floor piece that will meet up to the rear seat backs. Lots of contours here:

Centered a rectangle board the proper depth
http://i.imgur.com/06jtUs1.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Yz1pRu0.jpg

Started gluing wooden skewers to the ends to get the contour shape:
http://i.imgur.com/zbX1WlO.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zbX1WlO.jpg

Once that dries, I will do the other side, once that dries I will have a template that I can cut the final board.

[2fnloud]

Ran the extra pair of speaker wire to go full active in the front stage of the sound system and secured them to the floor of the car laying flat so that the bump up in the carpet is minimal.
http://i.imgur.com/lrXrJB5.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/r3sC0D5.jpg

Added two more anchor points for the rear false floor to attach to the car, and installed T-nuts for securing the front false floor to the rear false floor.
http://i.imgur.com/QOSDSwY.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/GY61FUR.jpg

Carpeted the front false floor and added speaker gasket to the edge to eliminate the chance of squeaks from the shifting of the car, and in process of finishing up the front bulkhead.
http://i.imgur.com/9FkcDHg.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/GsgSfZu.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/sFGikQs.jpg

I am open to popular opinion, do I carpet the face or Line-X? Being that the seat backs are carpet that would make the whole area carpet, or being that everything from the floor up is plastic Line-X would work too, so let me know what you think.

[DocWalt]

I'm kind of on the fence about the carpet/line-x on the face of that panel. I would probably do carpet.

BTW I really like your wire routing, especially the way you took the time to flatten the cables out properly. Also, the way you have the guides for the two fat power cables built into the "shelf" piece... Sick :)

[2fnloud]

Also need to share the back of this is going to be line-X coated, because everything behind this bulkhead is Line-X coated, just thinking that with the front carpet might be the better covering. There will also be an opening cut out to flush mount a DVD changer in the center too.

[futurevr4man]

I vote Line-x for consistency's sake

[j2k4]

Carpet. :wink:

[2fnloud]

I vote Line-x for consistency's sake

Nate just so you know the back side of this will be Line-X coated.

[2fnloud]

While I am waiting for my last amp to come in I made a schematic of the whole sound system.

http://i.imgur.com/zPNND5k.png

[murphys_law]

While I am waiting for my last amp to come in I made a schematic of the whole sound system.

http://i.imgur.com/zPNND5k.png
Quite impressive.

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

[2fnloud]

More progress:

http://i.imgur.com/7hHzdBY.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zogh9H1.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/mxxK5Qt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/G03leHU.jpg

[Ange]

While I am waiting for my last amp to come in I made a schematic of the whole sound system.

http://i.imgur.com/zPNND5k.png

Jesus :D Big alternator and battery needed to power all that I'm guessing.

Atleast I finally upgraded from my old busted speakers. Just went with smaller lightweight speakers(neodymium magnets), still with better output and sound quality than stockers.

My new speakers save 17.4 lbs over stock though. I don't think your system will :p

[2fnloud]

stock alternator for now, shouldn't need a H/O, have 880CCA battery though.

Whole system will probably add 200 lbs.

[2fnloud]

OK, I started fastening all these pieces together to prevent anything from flying up at me in the event of an accident. So far, it is all going as planned:

3/8" anchors:
http://i.imgur.com/1s5jVD0.jpg

There are covers for the bolts:
http://i.imgur.com/OilNGlM.jpg

They are attached to these blocks that are attached to the false floor, using 3/8" bolts again:
http://i.imgur.com/M72D0pz.jpg

Height of the bulkhead meets the bottom of the back seats perfectly:
http://i.imgur.com/fR8TdaG.jpg

Angle steel attached to the false floor for the small bulkhead:
http://i.imgur.com/lVoWLsI.jpg

With elongated holes to allow minor adjustments to the height of the small bulkhead to the top of the subwoofer boxes, the Line-X will affect the overall height.
http://i.imgur.com/eQaIu7V.jpg

[2fnloud]

I am wanting some opinion on this:

I have been designing this whole system to still have the ability to secure the sunroof in the original location. Here is what I have so far.

I do not care for how the PVC posts stick out like a sore thumb but I think once coated in Line-X it will not be so bad.

What say any of you?

http://i.imgur.com/nOMeZmd.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pu07BLc.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/0AoDusl.jpg

[j2k4]

Piece-o-cake:

Carefully wrap them with carpet/speaker-cloth. :wink:

[2fnloud]

Piece-o-cake:

Carefully wrap them with carpet/speaker-cloth. :wink:

Dude, they will be line-x coated, with a black felt pad top or rubber coated. I am asking if the posts sticking up will cheapen the whole install?

[2fnloud]

I got my amps today too!!

http://i.imgur.com/Hgc8pDt.jpg

[j2k4]

i got my amps today too!!

http://i.imgur.com/hgc8pdt.jpg

noice!!

[DocWalt]

I'd make the posts removable somehow.

[2fnloud]

Cold weather and Christmas events have slowed down my progress:

http://i.imgur.com/N4ou6YY.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/yl23m8L.jpg

[2fnloud]

UPDATES!!!!! With Christmas done, year end completed with the financials at the my church, (I am the treasurer and do Payroll), and along with the weather being a little nice....I was able to address the sunroof holders with a MUCH better idea:

I designed some brackets to hold the front in a similar fashion as the OEM held them before I installed my TecPerfomance rear strut bar.

A huge shout out to Corey Brabant for helping make these brackets a reality.

http://i.imgur.com/SLDV0je.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/7mKAM4Y.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/li4Cs9Q.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8Ib3wV9.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/rq33Lrv.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hta7XeQ.jpg

[DocWalt]

The brackets came out really well! Good work on the design and props to CoreyB for getting it done :)

[j2k4]

Sunroof = FILTHY!! :p

[CoreyB]

Looking great Cuz!

[2fnloud]

Sunroof = FILTHY!! :p

The whole care is filthy

[2fnloud]

More progress:

http://i.imgur.com/DD7D63j.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/lV4MwSj.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/X5rVaGG.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/6JRkVWn.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2I4AcKR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/sRZpKmD.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/BdleKzz.jpg

The remaining filler work will need to wait until it is above 50F, for it is in car work.

[spaceace60]

I decided that I would bring over the Pioneer equipment that I had in my Saturn, this meant I have 5.1 DTS and Dolby Music II available. So I start with the biggest stealth challenge, getting my center channel without just putting Pioneer's center speaker pod on the dash.

This is what I did with my Saturn and I hated how it looked. Sounded great, just looked too non OEM for my liking. I thought about installing my center channel into the center vents of my Stealth. I read about doing this on Suthnr's 212 HP Stereo page, thanks for sharing Eric, that install is inspiring. So I spent the whole summer with them closed to see if I could do without them, I didn't miss them at all so I picked up another center vent piece and went to work.

The biggest problem was to find a speaker that would fit there and give the fullest sound possible. I based my judgment against the Freq response that the Pioneer speaker pod had, according to Pioneer the speaker pod has a Freq range of 140Hz ~ 30kHz.

I found a Tang Band speaker that has a Freq range of 150Hz ~ 20,000kHz, I figured that this would be close enough plus the shape of this speaker is what appealed to me the most. It's dimensions are 2"x3" with a cutout of 1-13/16" x 3-3/8". I ended up sanding the long side of the speaker flanges down to get them to fit how I wanted but I think I achieved success.

I started by cutting the duct of the center vent like so:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4148.jpg

I removed the metal clips that lock this vent into the dash before I cut it in two. After sanding, sanding, and more sanding, I was able to squeeze these into the opening of the vent, it is almost a perfect fit. The grills of the vent lock the speakers from moving forward.

Here is a couple pictures:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4152.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4150.jpg

I will use Gorilla tape to join the two pieces back together once I get the back half of the vent sealed off and stuffed with Poly fill . I will also take non-drying modeling clay to seal off the backs of the speakers from the front.

Here is a rear shot:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa177/2fnloud/1994%20Dodge%20Stealth/Audio%20%20Video/Project%20Center%20Channel/PICT4151.jpg

Once I get baffle sealed off, I will wire them up in series and tape the two pieces back together. The best part is this will still remove like it should and I can replace the speakers should I blow them.

I would like to ask the forums opinion on this, should I put black speaker cloth behind the vent grills to hide them more or does this look fine like it is?

Please let me know what you think.


just curious is the center channel just for dvd/video?? as back in the 90's everyone tried experimenting w/center channels and most came to realize most audio(cd's ect music in general is only recorded in 2 channels(left/right) so trying to play audio(not movie audio) through a center channel will kill your stereo imaging! it kinda takes stereo and makes it sound more mono! but ya center channel is cool for dvd/movies ect! also if you get a chance check out the Pioneer stage4 062Prs(2-5/8" mids) they sound awesome and fit perfect in our dash's!

[2fnloud]

I am running a 5.1 processor, that also has Dolby music as well, this is WAY different than what was being attempted in the 90's. I appreciate your concern but trust me, I got this.

And please please...PLEASE stop pushing your stage 4 comments, it's getting old.

They do not make them anymore and there are several alternatives that would fit the bill.

And if you want to debate this start your own thread, don't junk up my build log.

[familyMAN]

If you are still debating, I think mesh to hide the speakers more.

[2fnloud]

Been decided and was changed right after I posted:

http://i.imgur.com/aptCDZh.jpg

[2fnloud]

This unrelenting cold weather has brought my work to a stand still (unheated garage), but I got to thinking about other details of my install, like how my Pioneer radio only has one remote lead for power antenna and amplifiers.

Switching the radios was not an option so I started researching switch options, but I wanted a factory looking switch, my research found this:

http://i.imgur.com/snEubqh.jpg

It is a antenna switch from a Volvo, it is a two pin switch that is a simple single throw switch, so the wiring is a no brainer.

I removed the cyan optic filter

http://i.imgur.com/yAgrNuH.jpg

So now the light that shines through is white:

http://i.imgur.com/MSBWacd.jpg?1

Trust me it is white. With an amber LED behind this it will match my OEM lighting, and look stock. I will be installing this in the change dish right below the radio, and I can lower my antenna for the other operations now.

[DocWalt]

Good find, Steve. It'll be nice to have that extra layer of control over the antenna.

[95gto]

You should have just gone with an active aero switch, imagine the looks on people faces when you tell them you lower the antenna for aerodynamic reasons. :p

[Uniuno]

Were you looking to be able to lower the antenna separately? Otherwise you could just wire in a relay to the one control wire your radio has and control as many amps or antennas as you want.

I do like the active aero switch idea though.

[95gto]

Radios that use separate antenna and remote turn on wires will actually lower the antenna when not listening to the radio. Since Steve's radio does not have this differentiation in control, my guess is that he wanted to add it via a switch.

[2fnloud]

radios that use separate antenna and remote turn on wires will actually lower the antenna when not listening to the radio. Since steve's radio does not have this differentiation in control, my guess is that he wanted to add it via a switch.

^^^^this^^^

[2fnloud]

Finally was warm enough to play with the fiber reinforced filler to take care of a tiny triangle area:

http://i.imgur.com/K0yb6oc.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hGsgSsh.jpg

Once this is all black (Line-X coated) it should look like it blends much better.

[2fnloud]

Did a proposed layout of the amplifiers and processor, nothing fancy but will look neat and orderly:

http://i.imgur.com/yTstiVP.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8PogGmo.jpg

[j2k4]

I like that. :)

[2fnloud]

Pieces back from Line-X :Banana:

http://i.imgur.com/FwRYXjF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/EbEPnSw.jpg

[j2k4]

Rockin' soon. :)

[CoopKill]

Nice!

[2fnloud]

Found time to get the front carpeted and test fit the DVD changer:
http://i.imgur.com/fg3HaF1.jpg

[DrGonzo]

Found time to get the front carpeted and test fit the DVD changer:
http://i.imgur.com/fg3HaF1.jpg

DVD changer.... :clue: What is this the 90's! Now your just showing your age Steve! :p

Should have gone digital media.

[2fnloud]

DVD changer.... :clue: What is this the 90's! Now your just showing your age Steve! :p

Should have gone digital media.

Using what I already owned, plus the sound quality due to the fiber optic cable. Plus this was made in 2005 ;p

[j2k4]

Looks like it grew there, troo story.

[2fnloud]

Changed my mind on dash speakers

http://i.imgur.com/d3AQ97C.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/OvPFQdi.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/vUwECop.jpg

These are a 3" vs. the 1.5 I had in the dash location:

http://i.imgur.com/iZD8qoN.jpg

Will sound and blend better between the 6.5" to 3/4" tweeter. And it looks stock.

[DocWalt]

Bigger is better for those, especially with the little speakers/tweeters on the pillars.

[2fnloud]

I have not given up on this just distracted by life. While I have the seats out from getting reupholstered I thought it a great time to deal with the wiring under the passenger seat:

Keeping the 7 runs of speaker wire from the amplifier area to under the passenger seat clean, the small wire that darts 90 from the wires is the remote LED's for the RenegadeWorks ECS brain and some wires for RBG LEDs for accent wires:
9800
Keeping the wires clear from being stepped on:
9801
9802
These terminal blocks will connect the speaker wires from the amp to factory harness without having to hack up the factory harness.
9803
Here's the amplifier bypass harness ready to connect the factory speaker wiring to the terminal blocks. Can't install it yet because I need yellow 18Ga primary wire. Since I ran my rear speaker wires right to the amplifier, I can re-pin the rear harness wires for power wires for the Pioneer 5.1 DTS processor.
9804

[B-Line]

That is a fair amount of wire to feed throughout. Keeping it well organized.

[2fnloud]

Todays Progress!!!
9805
This almost completes the speaker wire integration. The next complex step will be sound deadening the doors.

[2fnloud]

That is a fair amount of wire to feed throughout. Keeping it well organized.

5.1 DTS mobile theater. with a 3-WAY front system, so 11 runs of wire total.

[B-Line]

Impressive!

[j2k4]

Impressive!

He's the GuRu. :biggrin:

[Fisher]

Thanks for the photo, it's a beautifully done job. I hope you finish it soon!