thor'svr4
11-28-2010, 10:20 PM
Can someone please tell me where the oil cooler feed and return lines would be in this diagram?
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo110/streetracer4688/oilsystem.png
My issue I that I keep loosing oil pressure as I drive the car (slowly over 100-200 miles) and every time I boost I loose even more oil pressure. But the instant I change the oil I’m back to 25psi at idle and over 50psi by 2000rpm. 200 miles later I’m back to 17ish at idle and 37-40psi at 2000rpm. What makes it worse I the flipin lifter tick! I spun a bearing once before so I don’t think the lifter tick is a spun bearing. The tick comes and goes (is there prob about 20-30% of the time) and its to quiet to be a bearing, but never the less my heart sinks every time I hear the ticking. The ticking is most prominent when I’m just cruising at 2000-2500 rpm but goes away the instant I start to give the car any throttle and get to ~50-60+ psi of oil pressure or if im at idle or if I let off the gas slowly. Maybe a bad lifter?
I do data-log constantly, even when I’m just cruising. This motor has seen some slight knock but I think the worse was a 18psi pull where I had 8 counts. Other than that I’ve seen pulls where I’ve had 1, 2 or 3 counts. Never more than 3. Also whenever I see there is knock I turn the boost down, check timing, and adjust whatever needs to be adjusted so I don’t ever see knock for the same reason ever again. TOTAL (if you were to add every count of knock this motor has seen together) there has prob been under 30 counts. I doubt that several pulls where I had 1-3 counts and one pull where I had 8 counts would ruin brand new cleveite bearings.
What I think is happening is that the oil is not going to the oil cooler for some reason and heating up to the point where it looses its viscosity. I can hold the oil cooler, and both oil cooler lines in my hand after driving the car for a while and they are cold to the touch. Yet the oil filter is pretty dam hot and the oil pan is untouchable.
Any ideas as to why oil is not going to the cooler? The cooler is located in-between my fmic and radiator. Its not toooo high up, but sits at the same height or maybe 1-2” higher than the oil filter. I figured that since oil is being pumped at high psi that the height wouldn’t be an issue, am I wrong? Does the oil cooler need to be below the oil filter housing?
When I rebuilt the motor I did use a ‘different’ oil filter housing. I had bought a TT oil cooler and housing off eBay when I was doing a tt conversion on my rt, but never finished the conversion. While doing this build I decided that I would use the extra housing that I had laying around (it was much cleaner and appeared to be in better shape) but I did NOT use the lines or oil cooler. I bought a brand new B&M oil cooler from Summit and got some nice clear oil lines. When I ‘primed’ the motor for its initial startup (cranked it over with no spark plugs) I was able to watch oil slowly flow through the clear lines, but iirc I had oil pressure before the lines had been completely filled with oil. My Dad didn’t trust the clear lines so he went to a local hydraulic shop and had them custom make me a set of oil lines rated for 3,000 psi. over kill? Yes, but a hell of a nice gift and way to finish off the build. The ‘problem’ with the high pressure oil lines is that I cant see if oil is flowing through them. But judging from the fact that the stock oil cooler got very hot, and my B&M is cold to the touch im guessing that no oil is getting to the cooler.
Also there are no leaks coming from around the oil filter or housing… or anywhere on the car for that matter. Could the oil relief valve on the oil housing prevent oil from flowing to the oil cooler?
anyone got any ideas? the car has a all new bottom end. forged crank, 3sx rods, 3sx pistons, clevite bearings, new oil pump, all new oem gaskets, ect. also no dent in the oil pan.
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo110/streetracer4688/oilsystem.png
My issue I that I keep loosing oil pressure as I drive the car (slowly over 100-200 miles) and every time I boost I loose even more oil pressure. But the instant I change the oil I’m back to 25psi at idle and over 50psi by 2000rpm. 200 miles later I’m back to 17ish at idle and 37-40psi at 2000rpm. What makes it worse I the flipin lifter tick! I spun a bearing once before so I don’t think the lifter tick is a spun bearing. The tick comes and goes (is there prob about 20-30% of the time) and its to quiet to be a bearing, but never the less my heart sinks every time I hear the ticking. The ticking is most prominent when I’m just cruising at 2000-2500 rpm but goes away the instant I start to give the car any throttle and get to ~50-60+ psi of oil pressure or if im at idle or if I let off the gas slowly. Maybe a bad lifter?
I do data-log constantly, even when I’m just cruising. This motor has seen some slight knock but I think the worse was a 18psi pull where I had 8 counts. Other than that I’ve seen pulls where I’ve had 1, 2 or 3 counts. Never more than 3. Also whenever I see there is knock I turn the boost down, check timing, and adjust whatever needs to be adjusted so I don’t ever see knock for the same reason ever again. TOTAL (if you were to add every count of knock this motor has seen together) there has prob been under 30 counts. I doubt that several pulls where I had 1-3 counts and one pull where I had 8 counts would ruin brand new cleveite bearings.
What I think is happening is that the oil is not going to the oil cooler for some reason and heating up to the point where it looses its viscosity. I can hold the oil cooler, and both oil cooler lines in my hand after driving the car for a while and they are cold to the touch. Yet the oil filter is pretty dam hot and the oil pan is untouchable.
Any ideas as to why oil is not going to the cooler? The cooler is located in-between my fmic and radiator. Its not toooo high up, but sits at the same height or maybe 1-2” higher than the oil filter. I figured that since oil is being pumped at high psi that the height wouldn’t be an issue, am I wrong? Does the oil cooler need to be below the oil filter housing?
When I rebuilt the motor I did use a ‘different’ oil filter housing. I had bought a TT oil cooler and housing off eBay when I was doing a tt conversion on my rt, but never finished the conversion. While doing this build I decided that I would use the extra housing that I had laying around (it was much cleaner and appeared to be in better shape) but I did NOT use the lines or oil cooler. I bought a brand new B&M oil cooler from Summit and got some nice clear oil lines. When I ‘primed’ the motor for its initial startup (cranked it over with no spark plugs) I was able to watch oil slowly flow through the clear lines, but iirc I had oil pressure before the lines had been completely filled with oil. My Dad didn’t trust the clear lines so he went to a local hydraulic shop and had them custom make me a set of oil lines rated for 3,000 psi. over kill? Yes, but a hell of a nice gift and way to finish off the build. The ‘problem’ with the high pressure oil lines is that I cant see if oil is flowing through them. But judging from the fact that the stock oil cooler got very hot, and my B&M is cold to the touch im guessing that no oil is getting to the cooler.
Also there are no leaks coming from around the oil filter or housing… or anywhere on the car for that matter. Could the oil relief valve on the oil housing prevent oil from flowing to the oil cooler?
anyone got any ideas? the car has a all new bottom end. forged crank, 3sx rods, 3sx pistons, clevite bearings, new oil pump, all new oem gaskets, ect. also no dent in the oil pan.