View Full Version : Suggestions for engine rebuild?
jbeard1
11-11-2010, 12:29 PM
I need suggestions on what I should do as far as a engine rebuild, or swap with refurbished? My engine right now has 111k and has some various issues. I am looking for an engine rebuild, or just purchase a whole seperate refurbished engine. I am looking for suggestions on who to goto. I live here on the East Coast, in NC, so something somewhat close-by. I am hoping I can get away with it for around 2.5k. Let me know on your suggestions. I have been told to take it to a guy by the name of Val, who lives about 45 minutes away from myself, but I am not positive on where to go.
Let me know what yall think.
-JB
CoreyB
11-11-2010, 12:57 PM
Isnt 3SX in NC ?
jbeard1
11-11-2010, 01:01 PM
Isnt 3SX in NC ?
Yes, but I dont think they do engine rebuilds, do they??
CoreyB
11-11-2010, 01:42 PM
I believe they do EVERYTHING
jbeard1
11-11-2010, 02:06 PM
I believe they do EVERYTHING
Are they all-mighty? :P
Atrosity
11-11-2010, 02:22 PM
Whatever you do make sure to get a forged crank! ;)
CoreyB
11-11-2010, 03:21 PM
Yes, but it comes with a price. :)
jbeard1
11-11-2010, 03:26 PM
What would you guys suggest to do? Purchase a complete refurbished engine from someone/somewhere, or just have the same engine rebuilt?
Of course, having to calculate cost/time/labor
CoreyB
11-11-2010, 03:37 PM
Can you be more specific as to why you want it rebuilt ? A nice refresh is a lot different than a major overhaul.
CoopKill
11-11-2010, 03:40 PM
If having someone do it complete I think you are about 1-1.5k short.
When having my 1st gen na done by a shop about 5yrs ago it was around 4.2k complete
CoopKill
11-11-2010, 03:43 PM
P.S. make sure they don't use a gasket on the oil pan. It will leak. Sealant should be used.
jbeard1
11-11-2010, 04:23 PM
Engine has problems, there has always been a tick from time to time, and Ill have to add oil here and there. Its not burning or leaking oil however, so where it is going, I have no friking idea. The valve stems also need to be replaced, as there is a smoke problem. So yeah, it needs to be done. lol.
CoreyB
11-11-2010, 04:43 PM
Sounds like a simple refresh job. New rings, gaskets, VSS,lap valves, polish crank, main and rod bearings, oil pump, water pump, complete timing belt kit, and 3rd gen lifters. That should do it.
jbeard1
11-11-2010, 04:47 PM
And general bottom line cost for parts? Hell, I have an engine lift myself, and my father used to build engines. How much we looking for, for parts?
CoreyB
11-11-2010, 05:11 PM
I used a gasket kit from ebay with MLS head gaskets and I think it was less than $100
Free to polish crank, just emery cloth
Rings are like $100, you need to hone the cylinders but your dad probably has a hone.
Oil pump is $180
Bearings are about $100 or so
I think you can get big bore lifters for around $100
You need a valve spring compressor to change the VSS, I made one with a deep socket, big C clamp and a dremal cutting tool.
Lapping valves will be the cost of the tool plus the compound.
Rockauto sells a timing kit cheap. I used it and liked it. Some will tell you to only use OEM though.
Amphiron
11-11-2010, 06:26 PM
And general bottom line cost for parts? Hell, I have an engine lift myself, and my father used to build engines. How much we looking for, for parts?
Will a bad EGR valve cause you to burn oil?
I did a rebuild from Domestic Gaskets, cost 325 for rings, pistons, water pump, king bearings, all the gaskets (upper and lower), timing tensioners and even came with a timing belt but I threw it in the trash and went OEM. Seems to be holding up so far, only got 500 miles on it but after everything it ran me about $600 and ALOT of labor. I would NOT recommended using the manufacturer just yet, maybe in a few years when I have 100,000 miles on the rebuild if I were to do it again I would save a bit more and spend $1000 on parts go all OEM. It don't sound like you have any bearing problems so you're not gonna need a lot of work that job would require.
I would call 3SX and get a quote on them doing this for you:
new rings and cylinder glaze break honing
grinding and lapping the valves and seats
new valve stem seals
... All that should cover your smoke problem.
new cleavite main and rod bearings
99 lifters (bye bye lifter tick)
and mid as well do your 60k service too so
oil pump
water pump
timing belt and all tensioners
and I think if you already have the engine pulled for them you might squeeze out at around 2.7-3k but It will be worth it, another confident 100,000 miles on the engine.
jbeard1
11-12-2010, 12:31 AM
Will a bad EGR valve cause you to burn oil?
I did a rebuild from Domestic Gaskets, cost 325 for rings, pistons, water pump, king bearings, all the gaskets (upper and lower), timing tensioners and even came with a timing belt but I threw it in the trash and went OEM. Seems to be holding up so far, only got 500 miles on it but after everything it ran me about $600 and ALOT of labor. I would NOT recommended using the manufacturer just yet, maybe in a few years when I have 100,000 miles on the rebuild if I were to do it again I would save a bit more and spend $1000 on parts go all OEM. It don't sound like you have any bearing problems so you're not gonna need a lot of work that job would require.
I would call 3SX and get a quote on them doing this for you:
new rings and cylinder glaze break honing
grinding and lapping the valves and seats
new valve stem seals
... All that should cover your smoke problem.
new cleavite main and rod bearings
99 lifters (bye bye lifter tick)
and mid as well do your 60k service too so
oil pump
water pump
timing belt and all tensioners
and I think if you already have the engine pulled for them you might squeeze out at around 2.7-3k but It will be worth it, another confident 100,000 miles on the engine.
Thanks for the time you took out to write all of that up. Ill have to give em a call in the morning :)
Amphiron
11-12-2010, 07:12 AM
You may want to check into getting your crank balanced as well but you didn't spin a bearing so I don't really think its necessary.
MaxClass
11-12-2010, 02:47 PM
You can never go wrong balancing the bottom end. I was amazed at the amount of metal that needed to come off of rods and crank to bring everything into proper balance when done correctly. When a performance shop gets done with yours you will be too and the cost is cheap for the return on investment.
CoreyB
11-12-2010, 10:26 PM
I have seen some respectable builders claim balancing is not necessary. Especialy if you use stock rods,and pistons. IDK just what some good guys have said.
J_Parker
11-13-2010, 03:01 AM
The one and only tip my 'ol man gave me when I first got into cars... Buld it so it doesn't break ;)
With all honesty though, keep it well within, even under the alotted budget. Do a lot of shopping around, and use the right tools. If you need any machining done, usually you can do it yourself unless its in the heads.
Like Corey said just use some emrey cloth on the crank a hone isn't hard to find at all, and buy yourself a lot of paper towel and brake clean.
My first rebuild litterally cost me less than $600 and that was everything I needed to make it work again.
- Full bearing set
- Rings
- Full gasket set, Don't use a pan gasket the oil will soak into it and leak like a siv.
- Timing belt, tensioner, and pulleys.
- Acessory belts & pulleys.
Give your turbos a wiggle too, if they have any play you should concider giving them a rebuild too, It'll pretty well only tack $300 onto the build.
If you keep everything SUPER clean I guarantee you'll never have an issue with the engine.
J_Parker
11-13-2010, 03:12 AM
I have seen some respectable builders claim balancing is not necessary. Especialy if you use stock rods,and pistons. IDK just what some good guys have said.
I'm with Corey on this one, for the price of balancing stock compontents, I'd persoanlly invest in a set of Pauter rods, and Ross pistons.
terrets
11-13-2010, 03:52 AM
As balancing the bottom end goes, does the shop use your rods and pistons to do this also or just balance the crank? How do they do it?
J_Parker
11-13-2010, 04:59 PM
As balancing the bottom end goes, does the shop use your rods and pistons to do this also or just balance the crank? How do they do it?
They use rods, pistons, and crank. They pretty well shave as much as needed away from each component to make an equal "balanced" rotational mass out of the whole shabang, to reduce the risk of crank flex via vibrations etc.
jbeard1
11-19-2010, 01:06 AM
Well 3sx got back to me with a quote of $8,000... Guess that price pretty much answers for itself... lol...
Amphiron
11-19-2010, 07:02 AM
Damn! Just get your heads done at a local shop and put the 99 lifters in. Ask around and find somewhere that is good. You don't have a rod knock or anything so it's unnecessary to go any deeper than that. If you take your heads off and clean them up nice it should run you about $1,500 just to get seats and valves ground as well new valve stem seals you don't need anything else done..... lol if you still trust a quote from me.
TT Eric
11-19-2010, 08:23 AM
You can buy a new shortblock OEM (pistons, rods, frorged crank...) for 3499$ at Dynamic Racing or there is also Ray Pampena that he's selling a 3.1l shortblock, straight (no cores required) with forged internal. It's a deal, cause they run for 4999$ usually.
3 years ago I didn't bother with a rebuild and went with a new OEM shortblock, it was a really great move IMO.
Eric
jbeard1
11-19-2010, 04:11 PM
Yeah, I am thinking about just dropping a whole new engine in, that way I can have my old one to slowly work on over time. Im a little bit of a whore when it comes to parts, I refuse to let my stuff go on my car, because as SOON as its gone, I need it lol. I have three front bumpers, a side skirt and a fender in my back yard behind my shed hahah :P
Bluejediz
11-20-2010, 12:30 AM
The one and only tip my 'ol man gave me when I first got into cars... Buld it so it doesn't break ;)
With all honesty though, keep it well within, even under the alotted budget. Do a lot of shopping around, and use the right tools. If you need any machining done, usually you can do it yourself unless its in the heads.
Like Corey said just use some emrey cloth on the crank a hone isn't hard to find at all, and buy yourself a lot of paper towel and brake clean.
My first rebuild litterally cost me less than $600 and that was everything I needed to make it work again.
- Full bearing set
- Rings
- Full gasket set, Don't use a pan gasket the oil will soak into it and leak like a siv.
- Timing belt, tensioner, and pulleys.
- Acessory belts & pulleys.
Give your turbos a wiggle too, if they have any play you should concider giving them a rebuild too, It'll pretty well only tack $300 onto the build.
If you keep everything SUPER clean I guarantee you'll never have an issue with the engine.
Wow this sounds like a possibility for me, ive got 192,000 miles. Definitly need new VSS as it burns oil alot. My compression is good but would like the peace of mind that new pistons and rings would give, wheres a good place to find new oem pistons?
Also PMP sells a shortblock for like 1200 with core thats suppose to be the same as oem.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.3 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.