Rod question

[FeaRpb]

I was wondering how much power the stock rods could handle. Block in question,

http://www.ipsmotorsports.net/product_info.php?cPath=3543_3550_986_3474&products_id=1970

That one has stock rods.

This one has Forged Rods,

http://www.ipsmotorsports.net/product_info.php?cPath=3543_3550_986_3474&products_id=1969

[blindmist]

The stock rods are forged from factory. I am not sure exactly what they can handle though. If you have a 2-bolt, it is recommended to upgrade to a forged crank before upgrading rods.

[pos-vr4]

the stock rods had handle 600hp (with proper tuning), but i would not use them with the stock OE bolts. I would Install ARP bolts and have the stock rods reconditioned at a machine shop before i would run them at that level.

More often than not, the machine shop bill plus parts is very close to a set of BC or 3sx rods, so most people go that route.

[BaadVR4]

My H-beam 4340 forged rods have ARP 2000 bolts and are running in at least 4 engines of 600+AWHP. They are $550 shipped in the US. LMK.

[FeaRpb]

I will possibly be in touch with you Baad.

[MaxClass]

It is my understanding, after talking to the tech's at ARP, that you need to follow their torque spec's for their bolts and studs and not the torque spec's specified by the factory. [for steel, not aluminum]

ARP bolts and studs need to be stretched by a certain amount in order to make the correct clamping force. Stock torque setting do not stretch ARP bolts enough to do that because of the steel that they are made of. Also, they recommend that you do not use any other lubricant on them other than their new "Ultra Torque" and you will be within 5% of exact torque on the first pull. I use it and the stuff in awesome but dirty and also has anti-sieze properties as will, like for exhaust nuts and bolts.

ARP says that when using like stock bolts you are actually twisting the bolt while torqueing it. When you use studs the twisting action is not there and you get a straight stretch to torque.

If you have never twisted an ARP nut onto an ARP bolt or stud by hand you are in for a surprise. It's like sex in your hand. You get what you pay for with ARP and you will sleep better at night too.

I have ARP Studs on the bottom end and rods and ARP Studs on the heads of my build. That should hold everything in place.

P.S. No I don't work for ARP.

[FeaRpb]

Im just trying to think if stock rods will hold dr-750's to their max.

[TT Eric]

Depends if you have gen1 DR750's or gen2, but you could be in the 700WHP area and the problem would be to have a lot of torque so much low (no other turbo set-up produce that much TQ down low on a 6G72).

SoIMO if you're gonna to rebuild your engine and you want to daily drive your car, the best would be to put stock piston and a good set of rods (lighter possible), that set-up would allow you to have longivity and stay quiet (stock piston) and strong enough to avoid bending rods.

Eric

[Lugnut]

In the big picture it is believed that a stock bottom end will fail if you drive the car hard at 600+ wheel .. When it will fail of course is anyones guess !!!

[blindmist]

Like I said, you need to have a forged crank before you change your stock rods. The cast crank will break or flex with stock rods.

[FeaRpb]

I know blindmist, the crank is a no brainer.

But im still debating whether or not to get a built block with forged aftermarket rods or stay stock rods. The price difference is kind of big between the two.