Proportioning valve problem

[stealthee]

I apologize ahead of time if there are any severe misspellings or garbled words since I typed this on my phone.

I'm trying to get the car back on the ground and after making sure all my connections on the brake lines were good I filled the master and just opened all 4 caliper bleeders to let it gravity bleed since I didn't have a 2nd person. As I saw fluid from each bleeder I closed each. I got to where only the right rear had nothing.

I figured since it's furthest from the master that it would be last any way, but I left it open til I cleaned up last night and still had no fluid.

First thing I did this morning was open the bleeder, put a hose over it with the other end in a bottle with brake fluid and was going to just one-man bleed it. To my surprise the pedal was pretty solid. I continued to pump and after inspection the fluid level in the reservoir had not dropped and accordingly the fluid level was unchanged in the bottle.

After that I unhooked the hard line from the rubber line to see if it would one-man bleed before the caliper. Same result. I pulled the line from the prop valve and it was dry. I blew air through the whole line and it is clear.

I even put a rag over the open port in the prop valve and hit the pedal and nothing came out.

I'm not sure what the issue could be since I have fluid to the left rear. Anyone got any ideas?

[TT4ME]

Do you have a washer on the banjo bolt? Check the thickness.

[stealthee]

There is no banjo bolt. The rear brake line screws directly into the caliper. Even if there was an issue with a banjo, it doesn't explain why I get no fluid whatsoever out of the prop valve with the line disconnected.

[TT4ME]

I meant on the connection to the master.

I haven't messed with mine in a long time, but I had used the washers 3sx sent with the stainless front lines. They did not work.

Just throwing an idea out there, doesn't really make sense you have flow to the other 3.

[stealthee]

That's what I am saying, it doesn't make any sense. And I am using all stock lines, so no banjos on the master either.

[box]

The proportioning valve is fucked or blocked. Or am I missing something?

ABS or non ABS?

[stealthee]

Non-ABS. Two lines in, four lines out to each individual wheel.

[OhioSpyderman]

Maybe the line is kinked or smashed in a hard to spot location?

Bob.

[stealthee]

It's not a line issue. I'm getting literally no fluid out of the prop valve with the line unhooked.

[stealthee]

I talked with a guy at work today who has build a few race cars over the years. He's probably been building cars since before I was born.

Anyway, he's convinced a "rocker switch" inside the prop valve is stuck which is causing my problem. I bounced a few ideas off him that I could try and he said it couldn't hurt.

Long story short, nothing I did worked. I'm now convinced that the prop valve laying the corner of the shed for the last two years probably caused something to fail inside.

I just ordered a new proportioning valve. I hated to spend the money, but I'm just spinning my wheels going no where until I can get the brakes sorted.

I'll update once I get the new one in. Thanks to all those that have offered input.... even you Bob. :p

[box]

I've only seen it twice before - once was on an early 90's Mitsi, the other was on a mid 90's Hyundai. Both were non ABS vehicles, both had likely never had their fluid changed before and were only picked up due to having a rear brake imbalance on the brake rollers during vehicle inspection.

If you get a chance, could you pull the old one apart and let us know what's gone wrong?

[stealthee]

I've thought about opening it up to inspect it just to see what the hell happened. I'll have to see what I can do. Since it is a cast piece I think I might just try to cross section the whole thing.