D.I.P.
08-12-2016, 09:56 AM
1995 $ 18,500 OBO
I put the Spyder up on ebay...
Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/122079264749?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
Here is the info, Pics can be found in the eBay listing.
1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT Spyder VR4
3.0L DOHC V6 Twin Turbo
6 Speed Manual Transmission
All Wheel Drive
I have owned this car for a few years now and am finally ready to move on to the next project. The car is essentially Mechanically PERFECT. It starts every time and runs very strong on stock turbos. No leaks under the car, no smoke from the exhaust and no strange noises or smells. The transmission was rebuilt by Ray Pampena and shifts perfectly. Perhaps most importantly of all for this car (Spyder) the mechanical roof operates perfectly. The car runs/drives and pulls hard.
WORK DONE:
Brand new OEM 99 front end Conversion (Front bumper needs to be re-sprayed)
2 X Corbeau Sportline RRS seats with heated seat option installed and "shaved" (aka lower) Seat brackets.
OEM EVO VI MOMO SRS Steering wheel custom wrapped in Perforated Napa Leather
Seattle Bearing Loaded Short Throw Shifter with an OEM Titanium/Leather S2000 Shift Knob and custom Leather Shift boot/ E-Brake Handle
Pioneer AVHX5600BHS Head Unit
Kenwood KFC-6965R & KFC-1665R Speakers
Full 120K service (done a couple of years ago)
Jester Chrome ECU (Flash ECU)
Autometer Spek-Pro gauges ( Water Temp, Oil Pressure & Fuel Pressure)
AEM WB O2 (Gauge + Wired into Chrome ECU for data logging)
AEM TRU-BOOST
HKS SSQV4
3SX K&N Intake
3SX Stainless Pre-Turbo Intake Pipes
3SX Single Pass Aluminum Radiator
3SX UH11 Fuel Kit (Fuel Lab -- FPR, Filter, SS Lines, Loop & under hood pres. gauge)
CX-Racing Dual Core FMIC
3S Warehouse Side Mount Oil Cooler
OBX 3" SS Downpipe
Ray Pampena Rebuilt 6 Speed trans.
XTD Stage 2 Clutch
XTD Lightweight Flywheel
Tein Type-S Lowering Springs
Maximal Performance Adj. Rear Control Arms
Stoptech Slotted Rotors front & rear
Hawk HP Plus Brake pads in Front and HPS in rear
Goodrich SS Braded brake lines
XXR 552 Wheels 18X9 frt & 18X10 rear (will also include stock OEM Spyder chrome wheels)
Sumitomo HTR ZIII Tires (245/40/18 front & 275/35/18 rear) (less than 2000 miles on these)
The existing issues:
The car needs a good Paint restoration If not a full respray. As far as i can tell the car has its original paint and it has seen its share of sunshine in these last 24 years. It still looks ok from 15 -- 20ft away and when you drive down the street but once you get up close its evident the car needs at minimum a full Clay bar/buff/polish/wax type detail to really make it pop for now and eventually a fresh paint job to bring back its full luster.
Probably needs new Shocks soon. The car actually rides fine and doesn't really make any strange suspension noises but I'm pretty sure those are still the original Struts on the car and it would be wise to invest in some new ones sooner rather than later. I guess it's a good opportunity to upgrade to some coilovers...
It's a convertible. . . a 25 year old convertible. . . and while it seems to have been well maintained over that time (and definitely in the few years I have owned it) the rubber roof seals aren't as good as they once were. This means that at times you do get a bit of squeaking as you're driving especially if the car has been sitting for a bit. It tends to get better the more you drive the car. In heavy rain there is a drip that develops at the top of the driver's side window where the rubber seal meets the glass. It won't flood the car but it can be annoying if you are driving and you get a water drop on your left arm every 60 seconds.
The 3rd brake light on the rear wing isn't working, I honestly just haven't gotten around to looking into this might just be a bulb as the car does not have any other electrical problems at all.
The A/C has a leak/is not Blowing cold. When I first bought the car the A/C was blowing warm air, I bought one of those Recharge Kits and it worked fine and blew ice cold air for a couple of weeks Then I let the car sit for a week or 2 and it was back to blowing warm air. So, it has a leak somewhere. I have purchased a full A/C system Seal kit (will include in sale of car) but just haven't gotten around to trying to fix this. Honestly it's a convertible and when I drive it I usually have the top down and the A/C would be worthless anyway so it just hasn't been enough of an issue for me to worry about.
**ALL REASONABLE OFFERS WILL BE CONSIDERED**
I put the Spyder up on ebay...
Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/122079264749?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
Here is the info, Pics can be found in the eBay listing.
1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT Spyder VR4
3.0L DOHC V6 Twin Turbo
6 Speed Manual Transmission
All Wheel Drive
I have owned this car for a few years now and am finally ready to move on to the next project. The car is essentially Mechanically PERFECT. It starts every time and runs very strong on stock turbos. No leaks under the car, no smoke from the exhaust and no strange noises or smells. The transmission was rebuilt by Ray Pampena and shifts perfectly. Perhaps most importantly of all for this car (Spyder) the mechanical roof operates perfectly. The car runs/drives and pulls hard.
WORK DONE:
Brand new OEM 99 front end Conversion (Front bumper needs to be re-sprayed)
2 X Corbeau Sportline RRS seats with heated seat option installed and "shaved" (aka lower) Seat brackets.
OEM EVO VI MOMO SRS Steering wheel custom wrapped in Perforated Napa Leather
Seattle Bearing Loaded Short Throw Shifter with an OEM Titanium/Leather S2000 Shift Knob and custom Leather Shift boot/ E-Brake Handle
Pioneer AVHX5600BHS Head Unit
Kenwood KFC-6965R & KFC-1665R Speakers
Full 120K service (done a couple of years ago)
Jester Chrome ECU (Flash ECU)
Autometer Spek-Pro gauges ( Water Temp, Oil Pressure & Fuel Pressure)
AEM WB O2 (Gauge + Wired into Chrome ECU for data logging)
AEM TRU-BOOST
HKS SSQV4
3SX K&N Intake
3SX Stainless Pre-Turbo Intake Pipes
3SX Single Pass Aluminum Radiator
3SX UH11 Fuel Kit (Fuel Lab -- FPR, Filter, SS Lines, Loop & under hood pres. gauge)
CX-Racing Dual Core FMIC
3S Warehouse Side Mount Oil Cooler
OBX 3" SS Downpipe
Ray Pampena Rebuilt 6 Speed trans.
XTD Stage 2 Clutch
XTD Lightweight Flywheel
Tein Type-S Lowering Springs
Maximal Performance Adj. Rear Control Arms
Stoptech Slotted Rotors front & rear
Hawk HP Plus Brake pads in Front and HPS in rear
Goodrich SS Braded brake lines
XXR 552 Wheels 18X9 frt & 18X10 rear (will also include stock OEM Spyder chrome wheels)
Sumitomo HTR ZIII Tires (245/40/18 front & 275/35/18 rear) (less than 2000 miles on these)
The existing issues:
The car needs a good Paint restoration If not a full respray. As far as i can tell the car has its original paint and it has seen its share of sunshine in these last 24 years. It still looks ok from 15 -- 20ft away and when you drive down the street but once you get up close its evident the car needs at minimum a full Clay bar/buff/polish/wax type detail to really make it pop for now and eventually a fresh paint job to bring back its full luster.
Probably needs new Shocks soon. The car actually rides fine and doesn't really make any strange suspension noises but I'm pretty sure those are still the original Struts on the car and it would be wise to invest in some new ones sooner rather than later. I guess it's a good opportunity to upgrade to some coilovers...
It's a convertible. . . a 25 year old convertible. . . and while it seems to have been well maintained over that time (and definitely in the few years I have owned it) the rubber roof seals aren't as good as they once were. This means that at times you do get a bit of squeaking as you're driving especially if the car has been sitting for a bit. It tends to get better the more you drive the car. In heavy rain there is a drip that develops at the top of the driver's side window where the rubber seal meets the glass. It won't flood the car but it can be annoying if you are driving and you get a water drop on your left arm every 60 seconds.
The 3rd brake light on the rear wing isn't working, I honestly just haven't gotten around to looking into this might just be a bulb as the car does not have any other electrical problems at all.
The A/C has a leak/is not Blowing cold. When I first bought the car the A/C was blowing warm air, I bought one of those Recharge Kits and it worked fine and blew ice cold air for a couple of weeks Then I let the car sit for a week or 2 and it was back to blowing warm air. So, it has a leak somewhere. I have purchased a full A/C system Seal kit (will include in sale of car) but just haven't gotten around to trying to fix this. Honestly it's a convertible and when I drive it I usually have the top down and the A/C would be worthless anyway so it just hasn't been enough of an issue for me to worry about.
**ALL REASONABLE OFFERS WILL BE CONSIDERED**