Renegade TechWorks is No Longer Selling the ECS Model 02 Controller

[duke3k]

The Short & Sweet of it is that I'm close to finalizing the new Hardware Design on the Gen 3 (Model 03) Electronically Controlled Suspension (ECS) System Controller and I don't wont to sell any more of the old design.

The new Gen 3 will do everything the Gen 2 design did , but it will have add on options for an Auto Mode that will use an integrated 3 Axis accelerometer and totally new software for an Auto Mode - like the original OEM system had.

See this video update for more info:

Renegade Techworks ECS Gen3 Update

Like the original controller I will open source the entire design - both the hardware and software and here's some work deliverables in that regard:

Schematic of the new design - Top Half:
RenegadeTechWorks :: Topic: TechWorks ECS M03 PCB Board Design (1/1) (http://renegadetechworks.com/forum/techworks-ecs-m03-next-gen-hardware/5-techworks-ecs-m03-pcb-board-design/8)

Schematic of the new design - Bottom Half:
RenegadeTechWorks :: Topic: TechWorks ECS M03 PCB Board Design (1/1) (http://renegadetechworks.com/forum/techworks-ecs-m03-next-gen-hardware/5-techworks-ecs-m03-pcb-board-design/9)

PDF File of the new Design:
http://renegadetechworks.com/media/kunena/attachments/930/ECSM03Rev3_0Schematic.pdf


Cheers,
duke3k

[duke3k]

Acceleration data logged from a 12 second run of Striker3's '93 VR4.
Logging was done using one axis of the integrated 3 axis Accelerometer in the M03 TechWorks Controller. The data was logged via the data port to an external data logging MicoSD card.

http://renegadetechworks.com/images/TechWorks/RenegadeTechworks3000gtAccererationTest1SM.jpg

http://renegadetechworks.com/images/TechWorks/RenegadeTechWorksECSDataLogger2.jpg

[new93TT]

I will be waiting for one of these patiently.

[striker2]

So there have been a few updates to this. There is now a beta version that is being tested on my car. The following was originally posted on the other site but Im cross posting it here with duke3k's permission. This includes some info on the new version of the controller along with some of my initial impressions from my first drive with it installed.


Techworks ECS M03 Update:


So made quite a bit of progress on the Gen3 and have a beta version of the software running on a near production version of the latest Hardware PCB design. We (Striker3 & I ) installed a test beta unit in his VR4. I''ll ask him to cross post his feedback here in case your interested.


In the post immediately after this one - I'm going to post pages of the quick start manual that describes how the controller works now including how auto mode was implemented.




duke3k



Techworks ECS M03 Update:


Here's the manual


http://renegadetechworks.com/images/TechWorks/TechworksECSM03UserManualPG1.jpg


http://renegadetechworks.com/images/TechWorks/TechworksECSM03UserManualPG2.jpg


http://renegadetechworks.com/images/TechWorks/TechworksECSM03UserManualPG3.jpg


http://renegadetechworks.com/images/TechWorks/TechworksECSM03UserManualPG4.jpg



Initial impressions are good in auto mode. For some reason it kept changing the right side shocks to medium during bumps, even when just cruising down the highway, but the left side almost never did. I'm thinking raising the threshold for switching to medium a tiny bit along with maybe finding a way to make sure the controller is mounted perfectly vertically will help. Other than that it did everything perfectly. Starting off from a light at normal throttle would change the rear shocks to medium. Standard braking coming up to a stop light, the front struts changed to medium and slightly harder braking they would go to hard mode. Generic, easy cornering put the outside struts to medium and harder cornering they went to hard nicely. Right now the beta controller is mounted to the stock controller using some velcro and Marcus has stated that perhaps that is allowing the new controller to move around a bit during bumps, especially with the Tein S-tech springs. So i'm thinking that perhaps tomorrow morning I will spend the time to remove the stock unit and mount the new controller in the stock location and see if that makes any difference before we go doing any software changes.



I haven't published the new Gen03 code yet, but will be soon.




[edit] - ok here's the link to the new code....have fun. ;)


http://renegadetechworks.com/opensource/techworks-ecs-software-2


duke3k

[CoopKill]

- So with Arduino IDE, and a FTDI cable we can flash our existing now? (With some command research needed for the noob)

- What is necessary to wire in the led's? (Run wire, or use existing?)(Understand jumper is needed changed depending on led type, and switch type)

- If the first question is negative, what's the coin needed? :p

- If the first question is positive, will there be a how to on the connecting of the led?

Bad Ass Sir!

Edit: I am referring to my oem controller, and now realize that flashing it may not be an option after watching the vid again. So back to when, and how much :p

[duke3k]

some answers - and these only apply to the techworks controller - you cant flash the OEM controller or add on LEDs to it.

- So with Arduino IDE, and a FTDI cable we can flash our existing now? (With some command research needed for the noob)

Answer: correct with the using the techworks opensource software and the arduino IDE & a 15$ ftdi cable you can update the firmware in the techworks controller. Once you set up the arduino IDE and required libraries is pretty easy.

- What is necessary to wire in the led's? (Run wire, or use existing?)(Understand jumper is needed changed depending on led type, and switch type)

Answer: to wire in the leds you need to run three wires (+5v, GND, Data) from the expansion/adapter port on the techworks controller to where you want to mount them in the cockpit.


- If the first question is negative, what's the coin needed? :p

Answer: No coin needed - the software is open source - your only paying for the controller / Leds / rotary switch.

- If the first question is positive, will there be a how to on the connecting of the led?

Answer: installing the LEDs is documented in the installation manual - it's easy. Just three wires.


- How Much?

Answer:
- Bare Bones Manual Controller (no accelerometer, no auto mode no integrated leds) - $199
- Full Controller (integrated accelerometer, with auto mode and integrated leds) - $250
- Add on remote mount LEDS ( can be used with either bare bones or full controller) - $40
- Add on remote mount Rotary Selection Switch (cannot be used in conjunction w/ factory ECS switch) - $40

[duke3k]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gp_NYa4cm0w

[2fnloud]

Can this be used without the rotary switch or LED's connected? Like in my 94, just replace your controller with the OEM controller and be done?

[striker2]

Yes it can be used as just a straight replacement. I dont have the rotary switch connected and the LEDs are mostly there to show me what the struts are doing in auto mode so I can give feedback and adjustments can be made to the code as necessary. Without the LEDs you wont be able to see which struts and when the controller switches them to medium or hard automatically but thats not really necessary. Also there is at least the option to have the LEDs built into the case (or perhaps they will all come with the LEDs in the case) which can be used for diagnostic purposes.

[2fnloud]

Yes it can be used as just a straight replacement. I dont have the rotary switch connected and the LEDs are mostly there to show me what the struts are doing in auto mode so I can give feedback and adjustments can be made to the code as necessary. Without the LEDs you wont be able to see which struts and when the controller switches them to medium or hard automatically but thats not really necessary. Also there is at least the option to have the LEDs built into the case (or perhaps they will all come with the LEDs in the case) which can be used for diagnostic purposes.

Kinda guessed that after watching the video I could even mount the LED's in the trim panel from my stereo install on the right

http://i.imgur.com/TBsVd9C.jpg

Last question would be can an extension harness be made so I do not have to store the new controller in the OEM location, with fuses in it, I would rather have it accessible buy just removing the trim panel.

[striker2]

Are you talking about removing the small factory cover panel? If so then the way I currently have it mounted I believe would allow you to remove the two mounting screws and pull the controller if you ever needed to. I can verify that tonight when I have access to the car again.

Here is a picture of basically how I have it mounted. I have actually shifted the controller down and to the left on the plate a little (so its flush with the left edge) giving more clearance for the connectors. I made this plate out of some acrylic I had laying around as its not meant to be a permanent solution, just for testing purposes, but it needs to be solidly mounted in this orientation due to the internal accelerometer.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k17/Dslax/3000GT%20VR4/20160701_181323_zpsx2suhu9t.jpg

[2fnloud]

Are you talking about removing the small factory cover panel? If so then the way I currently have it mounted I believe would allow you to remove the two mounting screws and pull the controller if you ever needed to. I can verify that tonight when I have access to the car again.

Here is a picture of basically how I have it mounted. I have actually shifted the controller down and to the left on the plate a little (so its flush with the left edge) giving more clearance for the connectors. I made this plate out of some acrylic I had laying around as its not meant to be a permanent solution, just for testing purposes, but it needs to be solidly mounted in this orientation due to the internal accelerometer.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k17/Dslax/3000GT%20VR4/20160701_181323_zpsx2suhu9t.jpg

No, I want to mount it on the floor of the car right under my trim panel, from my stereo install. And if it needs to be vertical then mount it to the OEM trim, under my stereo install trim.

[duke3k]

No, I want to mount it on the floor of the car right under my trim panel, from my stereo install. And if it needs to be vertical then mount it to the OEM trim, under my stereo install trim.

So - couple of comments on all of this:

(1) To relocate the controller to a different location from the factory mount point - yes there are two ways to do this:
(a) make an extension cable harness that extends the F12 & F13 connectors that plug into the controller either by cobling together connectors or by cutting the existing harness an extending the wires to the desired length.
or
(b) skip the existing F12 & F13 connectors altogether and treat this excercise as a retrofit and use the 24 pin Molex retrofit/expansion port to run new wires as follows: 4 wires to each strut, 3 wires to the console (Sport/Tour light + ECS switch), +12v & Ground.



(2) as far as mounting the unit in a different orientation - by default I have the accelerometer configured to match the factory mounting orientation as Striker said - but it's easily changed in the code to other orientations with just a few line of code...since the code is open source - your good to go.

//
// Map Physical Accelerometer axis & sign to normalized variables
//

int ForwardAxis = 1; // default to Y axis
int ForwardSign = 1; // default to Y+ +Acc = Acceleration

int LeftRightAxis = 2; // default to Z axis
int LeftRightSign = 1; // default to Z+ +Acc = Left Turn

int UpDownAxis = 0; // default to X axis
int UpDownSign = 1; // default to X+ +Acc = Up

duke3k

[2fnloud]

So - couple of comments on all of this:

(1) To relocate the controller to a different location from the factory mount point - yes there are two ways to do this:
(a) make an extension cable harness that extends the F12 & F13 connectors that plug into the controller either by cobling together connectors or by cutting the existing harness an extending the wires to the desired length.
or
(b) skip the existing F12 & F13 connectors altogether and treat this excercise as a retrofit and use the 24 pin Molex retrofit/expansion port to run new wires as follows: 4 wires to each strut, 3 wires to the console (Sport/Tour light + ECS switch), +12v & Ground.



(2) as far as mounting the unit in a different orientation - by default I have the accelerometer configured to match the factory mounting orientation as Striker said - but it's easily changed in the code to other orientations with just a few line of code...since the code is open source - your good to go.

//
// Map Physical Accelerometer axis & sign to normalized variables
//

int ForwardAxis = 1; // default to Y axis
int ForwardSign = 1; // default to Y+ +Acc = Acceleration

int LeftRightAxis = 2; // default to Z axis
int LeftRightSign = 1; // default to Z+ +Acc = Left Turn

int UpDownAxis = 0; // default to X axis
int UpDownSign = 1; // default to X+ +Acc = Up

duke3k

I could easily mount it to the outside of the plastic OEM trim to keep it vertical, I am just wanting to keep it easily accessible to replace the four fuses you have in the main board. I would just extend you harness that goes from the new controller to the OEM plug.

If you look at the picture of my hatch, I would mounting under my access trim panel on the right, but not behind the OEM trim. I need to pull most of my stereo to remove that OEM panel, that would suck just to replace a fuse.

[striker2]

If you just wanted to mount it to the floor the stock harness might actually be long enough as it has some extra length. Then make the necessary changes to the code so it knows which axis to use for what.

Edit: I'm guessing there is something blocking the factory access panel from being removed? Part of the support structure maybe?

Edit2: Never mind, I found your build thread and the battery is obviously in the way but it does appear that the floor is in the way too.

[2fnloud]

Battery is no longer back there, I don't recall seeing an access panel on the passenger side for the ESC controller.

[2fnloud]

LOL I see the access panel:

http://i.imgur.com/RIskz7S.jpg

I should still be able to get the that now making all the other posts moot.

[striker2]

Well than in that case I will definitely double check this evening and make sure it can be removed just from that access panel.

[striker2]

So went out to the car last night and checked and with how I currently have it mounted both of the mounting screws are accessible just by removing the access cover.

[2fnloud]

So went out to the car last night and checked and with how I currently have it mounted both of the mounting screws are accessible just by removing the access cover.

Awesome, yeah I will be wanting one of these when available.

[LesioQ]

Like the original controller I will open source the entire design - both the hardware and software and here's some work deliverables in that regard:

Schematic of the new design - Top Half:
RenegadeTechWorks :: Topic: TechWorks ECS M03 PCB Board Design (1/1) (http://renegadetechworks.com/forum/techworks-ecs-m03-next-gen-hardware/5-techworks-ecs-m03-pcb-board-design/8)

Schematic of the new design - Bottom Half:
RenegadeTechWorks :: Topic: TechWorks ECS M03 PCB Board Design (1/1) (http://renegadetechworks.com/forum/techworks-ecs-m03-next-gen-hardware/5-techworks-ecs-m03-pcb-board-design/9)

PDF File of the new Design:
http://renegadetechworks.com/media/kunena/attachments/930/ECSM03Rev3_0Schematic.pdf


Cheers,
duke3k

Hi,
Seems that PCB links are dead, perhaps always were; does anyone have PCB layouts available ?
I'd love to build one v3 for my 1991 Stelath R/T, but without a PCB - I'm stuck.
Piotr
EU

[duke3k]

Hi,
Seems that PCB links are dead, perhaps always were; does anyone have PCB layouts available ?
I'd love to build one v3 for my 1991 Stelath R/T, but without a PCB - I'm stuck.
Piotr
EU

Piotr,

Those first two links are just screen grab jpgs of the schematic file.
the source code is here: http://renegadetechworks.com/index.php/opensource/techworks-ecs-software-2
The schematic diagram file is located here http://renegadetechworks.com/images/OpenSource/Renegade_Techworks_ECS_M03_Schematic.pdf


(http://renegadetechworks.com/images/OpenSource/Renegade_Techworks_ECS_M03_Schematic.pdf)I don't publish the pcb source files.

Duke3k

[2fnloud]

Piotr,

Those first two links are just screen grab jpgs of the schematic file.
the source code is here: http://renegadetechworks.com/index.php/opensource/techworks-ecs-software-2
The schematic diagram file is located here http://renegadetechworks.com/images/OpenSource/Renegade_Techworks_ECS_M03_Schematic.pdf


(http://renegadetechworks.com/images/OpenSource/Renegade_Techworks_ECS_M03_Schematic.pdf)I don't publish the pcb source files.

Duke3k

I can't believe there are people out there that will not support the efforts that make things like this happen. How much money are they really saving buy building vs buying from you?

[B-Line]

Piotr,

Those first two links are just screen grab jpgs of the schematic file.
the source code is here: http://renegadetechworks.com/index.php/opensource/techworks-ecs-software-2
The schematic diagram file is located here http://renegadetechworks.com/images/OpenSource/Renegade_Techworks_ECS_M03_Schematic.pdf


(http://renegadetechworks.com/images/OpenSource/Renegade_Techworks_ECS_M03_Schematic.pdf)I don't publish the pcb source files.

Duke3k

Great product you are offering. Building and ECS upgrade from scratch.

[LesioQ]

I can't believe there are people out there that will not support the efforts that make things like this happen. How much money are they really saving buy building vs buying from you?
Including taxes this will be about my monthly salary :grey:
Can I buy just a PCB then ?

[2fnloud]

If your monthly salary is less than one of these units, perhaps you are owning / maintaining the wrong car. Please understand, I'm not trying to be rude. But even if you was sold just a PCB, what would be the total cost building it? I bet that in the end you are really close to the price of just buying a unit.

[duke3k]

Including taxes this will be about my monthly salary :grey:
Can I buy just a PCB then ?

If your goal is to save some $$ then since this an arduino based design , why don't you save even more and just buy a stock Arduino UNO and a prototype shield and build a one off using the prototype board? That's how I made the very first prototype. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HHYBWPO


duke3k (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HHYBWPO)
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HHYBWPO)

[LesioQ]

Oh, that would look ugly :). Redoing the PCB layout is not a problem, just reinventing the wheel.
Okay - I really thought that open-sourcing this project included the PCB, but was not included just by mistake.
If this was purposeful then OK, I can do my own.

Oh - and the cost of building ? Parts, excluding donor ECS module for connector - was $15 ?
Provided that Aliexpress parts do work :)