No start .. Flooding?

[jonezj]

For the 3rd time in a few weeks my 63k 93tt has refused to start. It had done the same after sitting a month one other time. I pulled the plugs and decided to replace the plugs after letting the cylinders dry out a few days since I could smell the gasoline in the cylinders. New set of OEM wires as well and it fired right up.
A week later it doesn't start on me again after work. This time I pull the MFI relay plug and turn it over, then plug it back in and vroom it starts.
Tried the same trick again today and got nothing. Pulled the plugs and they are wet again. No fouling.
Car is burning a bit of oil from vss drop but not that bad. Fuel trims and AFR are perfect on chrome. Running 560s with wally255 pump, stock FPR. Fuel pressure is at 40 when trying to turn over. Injectors are less than 3000 miles since clean and flow test.

Am I overrunning the fpr so bad it's flooding out? Is the vss oil burn worse than I thought and coating up cylinders and preventing good compression?

I ruled out timing jump already.
Holy frustrating trying to figure this out. Lone TT 3S on the whole island it seems too. FMC

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[stealthee]

What are you controlling fuel with?

[jonezj]

Chromed. My trims are dialed in perfectly too.

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[RealMcCoy]

Overrunning regulator causes rich condition at idle... You would see it in the trims, and if you've already tuned it out, it's a non issue.

I would look for a coolant temp sensor issue first, seen them go bad and cause overfueling on start up. If all the inputs look good, and your fuel trims are good when it's running, you might try pulling some fuel out of the cold start enrichment.

[jonezj]

Thanks. I'll try that.

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[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

highlight the entire cranking IPW table. Right click and hit multiply by .7 then enter.

Normally you don't need to reduce cranking fuel with injectors that small, but it won't hurt and will get startup fueling closer to stock. I'm not saying that is going to solve your problem as it may be ignition related, but its easy to try and can only help.

[jonezj]

I'll give that a go. Towing it home now. Still going to have to pull spark plugs and let all cylinders dry out. I left the front banks pulled overnight but it still didn't start.

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[jonezj]

So, after poking around, I cannot be 100 percent sure, but I believe there was simply a loose wire grounding out in the vicinity of my ECU which was keeping the car from starting. I started looking there after trying to hook up to Evo scan and reflash a leaner cranking IPW as suggested by Gump but not being able to connect to the ecu.
I moved something and suddenly heard the antenna motor spin.
Car started immediately upon turning the key after I cranked it without the MFI hooked up, flashed the new ipw settings, and reconnected it all again.
I had left out the plugs a few nights before on the front bank only.
Still feel like it could have easily been the coolant temp sensor giving bad readings causing the warm no start issue, but looking at the Evo scan logs, everything looks good.
I'm in the process of rewiring my LCDBC and ECU with WB02 and MAP sensor data, eliminating my pillar pod gauges and generally cleaning the wiring up. Pod is in the way when violently steering during auto cross and I'm trying to keep it stockish appearing.
Glad it runs again and no major issues. Hoping that it lasts.

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[jonezj]

Was actually the ecu case itself grounding out, which I believe means I have some other grounding issues. (Band-aid) Solution was to wrap the ecu with a foam pad to insulate it and not screw it into any mounting points... Don't like it but it starts every time now. Probably stereo problems. My stock stereo harness was hacked to hell.

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