Front Crossmember (with jack pad)

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

I always had the most awful time trying to get the transmission in and out of this white car. It was to the point that I had to remove the driver's side motor mount and jack the engine up on that side as high as it would go in order to get the transmission to clear the passenger frame rail. The trans mount also usually took some prying to get lined up too. I've also noticed random tight fits, like the upper intercooler pipe is really tight, the passenger intercooler pipes don't quite line up right, etc.

I also had a really hard time getting the engine mounts to line up when I put the engine in. I knew my front cross member was damaged and I suspected it would be causing the engine and trans to sit to high. I looked a long time for a clean cross member and finally found one on ebay, I paid too much, but it arrived quickly and is almost mint.

Old is on top of course:

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/photos/WP_20151029_003EX.jpg?635817201121050348

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/photos/WP_20151029_001OH.jpg?635817201121206344


http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/photos/WP_20151029_002Pa.jpg?635817201121050348

There is the problem. It may not be super apparent, but besides the obvious dent on the front (from stump jumping I suppose :), it wasn't me), the passenger side bushing mount is practically an inch higher on the undamaged part, which when installed in the car, should lower the motor mount that much, because of the compound bends. The old mount pad is also pushed around towards the back.

Lesson learned for me is if you see something like this that looks dented, the damage and effect may be a lot worse than you see on the surface. Hopefully this fits the car and the car is not bent.

[Jimvr4]

I replaced mine when I rebuilt the motor. In the process I discovered that AT cars have a different one than MT cars. I ended up cutting off the clutch booster tank mount and welding it to the new one. I've been very careful with the new one so as to prevent crushing the jacking point in.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Yes, this is missing that as well, but I don't need it.

[familyMAN]

I think I tossed my old one in trash when I fabbed chromoly version. Wish I would've known you had been looking!

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

I think I tossed my old one in trash when I fabbed chromoly version. Wish I would've known you had been looking!

Thanks, 92vr4widebody came up with one today too, but this one was ordered Tue :(

http://www.chrisbehnken.com/Images/photos/WP_20151029_007gU.jpg?635817438688286978

That's better. I hardly believe it myself, but the measurements show the engine THREE inches lower at the mount.... I expected one at the most. The front motor mount pin slides in and out freely where its at. Things are either going to line up better or worse than before :)

I really wonder if everything being off so far put the transmission in a big bind and has caused a lot of my recent issues.

Edit, just remember my measurements are now off. I had to lift the rear to work on the driveshaft, which may have caused the car to pivot and the front to lower a little. Its still probably a lot of difference. I'll lower the rear and check again.

[futurevr4man]

Yeah, you know I have a parts car! I could have gotten one to you for shipping!

For shame, Christopher.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

FYI, between having a good front crossmember and having the little ear on the upper right of the trans end case shaved there is now plenty of room to install the trans without messing with the drivers motor mount :) Final measurements seem about 1" lower on the front motor mount than before.

[MDoe8]

nice. i think i threw away mine as well that i would have given you lol.