Turbo install, reuse stock oil feed lines? Engine mount replacement question

[jonezj]

I noticed that many merchants who sell TD04 turbo upgrades will only honor the warranty if you replace the oil feed lines with new OEM ones upon installation of the turbos. I don't have a warranty on the NIB old style DR650s I am about to install, so I was planning on reusing my stock lines that have 62k on them. Why all the fuss about replacing the lines? If they look good from the outside, nothing to worry about, right? Or should I stop being cheap and spend the 60 bucks for new ones? I have all new hardware and gaskets (OEM) for the install otherwise.

Also, I am doing Seattle Poly Mounts at the same time as the turbo install. I've never used an engine hoist and I don't have any reliable help to do the job with me, but I also refuse to put a jack anywhere near the oil pan. Suggestions for the drivers side mount? Or wait until I have someone to help with the hoist?

Thanks for your input.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Spray brake clean through them and don't worry.

Use a block of wood and jack up against the ac compressor bracket.

[sergechronos]

I noticed that many merchants who sell TD04 turbo upgrades will only honor the warranty if you replace the oil feed lines with new OEM ones upon installation of the turbos. I don't have a warranty on the NIB old style DR650s I am about to install, so I was planning on reusing my stock lines that have 62k on them. Why all the fuss about replacing the lines? If they look good from the outside, nothing to worry about, right? Or should I stop being cheap and spend the 60 bucks for new ones? I have all new hardware and gaskets (OEM) for the install otherwise.

Also, I am doing Seattle Poly Mounts at the same time as the turbo install. I've never used an engine hoist and I don't have any reliable help to do the job with me, but I also refuse to put a jack anywhere near the oil pan. Suggestions for the drivers side mount? Or wait until I have someone to help with the hoist?

Thanks for your input.

The reason the people who sell them want you to replace the lines is two fold: 1) Money. Profit margins from selling more stuff.
2) If you spun a bearing, there could be metal material in your lines that then gets into the new turbos and trashes them. Flush thoroughly with brake cleaner or acetone to take care of it.

If you replace, just get new OEM lines. Braided lines are a pain in the ass honestly, and generally cause more problems than they solve.

As far as your poly mount situation, Gump has it right: block of wood under the ac compressor bracket should do it.

[box]

Braided lines are a pain in the ass honestly
That times a million!

[jonezj]

Got 3 mounts in. Didn't tighten any of them down fully. Still have to do the rear. Procrastinating the hard one. Can't believe how huge and heavy the drivers side stock mount was! It was also the only one that was not serviceable due to cracking of the rubber. I thought they were in worse shape because it rocked quite a bit if I rev the engine. I suspect the rear will be in bad shape too.

Rear turbo exhaust side was coated white, as well as the rear o2 sensor. My o2's hadn't been cycling properly and I just got my wideband installed recently so I had no idea it was running that lean. I had installed a fuel loop about 1000 miles ago, and I actually suspected that the car was running a wee bit rich since I installed the evo560s and walbro pump and hand't got an afpr, although I have chrome set for the injectors.

Anyway, install is going pretty well. Trying not to rush and stay organized. Thanks for the advice.

Also, I noticed today that although my car was originally sold in Hawaii and has been on the island its whole life, it is stamped under the hood that it complies with all federal and california emissions regulations. Does this make my car "Cali spec" as a 93? I'm running a fed-spec jesters ecu now, so does it even matter?

[stealthee]

Rear mount is usually the one that takes the most abuse. I am sure you will find it in poor shape.

When you do the rear mount you might find it easier to remove the center bolt on the front mount. The engine will rest fine on the two side mounts and will have the ability to "rotate" to get the old mount out, put new in, and to line the mount up.

[jonezj]

Rear mount is usually the one that takes the most abuse. I am sure you will find it in poor shape.

When you do the rear mount you might find it easier to remove the center bolt on the front mount. The engine will rest fine on the two side mounts and will have the ability to "rotate" to get the old mount out, put new in, and to line the mount up.
Didnt even have to loosen the other 3. Came right out but yes the rear was cracked pretty good.

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

[sergechronos]

IV always found installing the new one harder than removing the old. Usually the old OE ones are so cracked and busted that there's a ton of free play for getting them out.

[jonezj]

So I'm buttoning everything up after this install and literally on of the last bolts to go in, the rear turbo outlet bolt, breaks in half, leaving the shaft in the compressor housing.... So flipping mad right now... Have to tap it and find a new bolt.. I was so close to being done. F u murphy

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk