92 W5MG1 1/2 shift fork

[steve]

I've never torn a transmission apart before much less the Getrag 5 speed so I'm not sure if this is normal or not.
I took it apart to replace the output shaft which was shot and noticed that there was quite a bit of slop in the shift fork. It looks worn to me.

8219

Pushing the fork up off the slider.

8220

Resting on the slider.

Time to replace?
The 5/R and 3/4 forks feel solid.

[RealMcCoy]

I'm having a hard time with your pics, but I suspect you are correct... I would expect somewhere around .005" or less side clearance for a good fork.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

yeah that looks busted, I have one if you need one.

[steve]

I would guess that that would be about the fork to slider clearance if the fork wasn't so chewed up.
Right now there is about 10x that clearance (a bit over 0.05")

I'm been asking around locally assuming that it was done for. Let me know what you want for it.

[steve]

Dang, I was hoping that there was a way to remove the fork without having to pull the lock bolt on input shaft and pulling the end case but it looks like there isn't room enough to punch the spring pin from the fork and slide the rail off. I can't see any other way short of cutting the fork.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Can't you just pull 1st gear off and slide the fork and rod up once you remove the detents?

[steve]

Don't know.

What little that is in the trans service manual makes it look like I'd have to pull the bearing race first and then the gear with the chance of the syncro springs flying.

Since the fork is now scrap it would seem easier to sacrifice it if I can't pull the roll pin with a slide hammer.

[RealMcCoy]

You start cutting, and you're going to spread metal everywhere, and have to tear it down and clean it anyway...

If you pull 1st gear, and wrap a towel around the assembly to contain the balls and springs, It won't be that big of a deal... 1st gear will push the bearing off, and it will give you an opportunity to check the synchros.

Of course I don't think it's that big of a deal to just pop the shafts out either...

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Don't know.

What little that is in the trans service manual makes it look like I'd have to pull the bearing race first and then the gear with the chance of the syncro springs flying.

Since the fork is now scrap it would seem easier to sacrifice it if I can't pull the roll pin with a slide hammer.

You shift the trans to 2nd. Then remove the snap ring on top of the bearing. Then use a puller and pull 1st and the bearing off at the same time. The springs and balls won't come out of it is shifted to 2nd, especially if you leave the syncro assembly laying on top and just pull the gear off.

[steve]

Thanks guys.

Doesn't the sleeve/slider hold the syncro parts together? The balls and springs are detents for the sleeve/slider, right?
I'll have to lift it up with the fork to clear the end case before I can slide the fork off the sleeve/slider? So the syncro will come apart if I go this route.

Like I said, this is uncharted ground for me at this point so I'm trying to understand what will be involved and then figure out how to attack it. The monkeys before me stripped the drain plug so the pressing the end case off may be the easiest way to take care of everything.

I can drill and tap that for the time-sert without making a big mess but it would be much easier to do it on the drill press if it was free from the gear sets.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

If you are careful you should be able to get it apart. If you have to move the slider a little just push the outer syncro in the opposite direction and the springs/balls can't come out.
Even if it does it's really not hard to put back.

[steve]

A couple of careful mins with a 6-32 tap on the spring pin, a little application of the slide hammer and the pin came right out. Rail and fork followed.

[steve]

Hopefully this picture will be clearer.

I measured the synchro sleeve/slider groove at about 5.0mm and the fork where it contacts the slider at 3.5mm. Something ate it up that I'll have to check for when I reinstall the trans, could have been the PO's driving or maybe cable adjustment. The trans really didn't crunch shifting. It came out do to discovering the output shaft was toast in the process of replacing a CV boot throwing grease.

I'm sure you all have had what seems to be a simple repair turn into a restoration project as you dig into it. :)

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