New year, new setup. Built 6G74 and Billet 20Ts

[Uniuno]

Every year I do some sort of major modification to my car. Usually in the weeks leading up to NG. This year is no exception.

For those of you that are unfamiliar with my car, it is a 95 base model that I converted to twin turbo, then built the N/A block with forged 9:1 pistons, then converted an AWD trans to FWD, then converted the car to 5 speed AWD, then last year I put in a stock 3.5L 6G74 and retained the 9Beasts.

Mods as of last year:

10:1 6G74 (stock)
9b turbos
Wally 255
GZP cam gears
stock clutch
Stock injectors
SS t-case
2 piece Aluminum/Steel drive shaft

I took that engine out and installed it in another guy's stealth earlier this year. So I started buying parts for the new setup.

This years mods include:

Built 6G74 with 3sx rods and pistons
Stage 3 DMR heads with Ray's head lift fix
Delta 272 cams
3SX adjustable cam gears
Kingugawa billet 6+6 20T with 9 blade HL turbine
Wally 400 e85 pump
3SX Aluminum Fuel rails
Maft & GM maf (still don't know if draw through or blow through yet)
XTD stage 3 clutch


Still need:
Bellhousing brace
ID1000 injectors
74 oil pan modified to clear transfercase.
Couplers for turbo to charge pipes

The car last year:
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/IMG_0974_zps5bfed709.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/IMG_0974_zps5bfed709.jpg.html)

The car as it sits now:
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0044_zpsj9bc66y0.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0044_zpsj9bc66y0.jpg.html)



I'll try to keep this updated as I go.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

should be nice and strong

[murphys_law]

I'm curious about these 20t's, subbed.

Did you get the anti surge housings?

[Uniuno]

I am curious myself. I did indeed go with the anti surge housings. They are at GPop Shop right now getting the turbine housings fitted.

[TurboSinceBirth]

Have you decided what to do about the coolant lines yet? Stock won't bolt up. The center cartridge has opposite holes open for the coolant bolts so you can't run the banjos the stock direction without bumping them out enough to clear the bolt head where the cartridge is plugged. Our center cartridges have almost a cap/plug inverted and shoved in the hole whereas Kinugawa uses a bolt to plug it. I wanted to check out and see if you could swap holes without adversely affecting the coolant pathway but I didn't. I modified some stock coolant lines with some longer coolant hoses and got it to work. Eventually I may do braided AN lines but it was to see if you could use stock parts to bolt in the turbos. Stock oil lines bolt right up fyi. You will have to use their included bolts though because the thread pitch is different than OEM. Other than that it's just a tight fit bolting everything up and the front clearing the motor mount so you can fit a coupler on there. I'm sure you'll probably need to clock both turbos.

[Uniuno]

Thanks for the heads up, I'll have to figure out the best route when they get here. I'll see if I can just swap that plug to the other side.

My oil lines are already AN so I'll have to get new AN fittings with the correct thread pitch. You don't happen to know what thread pitch it is, do you?

I've already done some grinding on the motor mount, plenty of meat left to grind out if I need to. I need to order new couplers as well.

[98slept]

Have you decided what to do about the coolant lines yet? Stock won't bolt up. The center cartridge has opposite holes open for the coolant bolts so you can't run the banjos the stock direction without bumping them out enough to clear the bolt head where the cartridge is plugged. Our center cartridges have almost a cap/plug inverted and shoved in the hole whereas Kinugawa uses a bolt to plug it. I wanted to check out and see if you could swap holes without adversely affecting the coolant pathway but I didn't. I modified some stock coolant lines with some longer coolant hoses and got it to work. Eventually I may do braided AN lines but it was to see if you could use stock parts to bolt in the turbos. Stock oil lines bolt right up fyi. You will have to use their included bolts though because the thread pitch is different than OEM. Other than that it's just a tight fit bolting everything up and the front clearing the motor mount so you can fit a coupler on there. I'm sure you'll probably need to clock both turbos.

thats odd because the kinuwaga antisurge 19ts CHRAs we received for my friends build, the oem coolant line bolts bolted up fine with no issues on custom lines and havent seen a leak in 100 miles since the engine rebuild.

[TurboSinceBirth]

thats odd because the kinuwaga antisurge 19ts CHRAs we received for my friends build, the oem coolant line bolts bolted up fine with no issues on custom lines and havent seen a leak in 100 miles since the engine rebuild.

I had some of the earliest ones so maybe they changed the design since then. I'm curious to see what someone else finds out. Did you buy a kit to modify for the coolant lines or what fittings were used?

[98slept]

I had some of the earliest ones so maybe they changed the design since then. I'm curious to see what someone else finds out. Did you buy a kit to modify for the coolant lines or what fittings were used?

we used the stock hardlines slightly bent, clamped, and extended with coolant hoses. The rear turbo we use two of the extended coolant hardlines to clear the front compressor.

[Uniuno]

I got a little work done on the engine over the weekend. I bought it already built from a local friend. He had the stock 3.5L heads redone and I since I don’t need them I’m pulling them and giving them back to him.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0060_zpsrou3ghag.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0060_zpsrou3ghag.jpg.html)

Heads have Ray’s headlift fix done and are 1mm oversize on all valves with BC springs.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0065_zps7bcvmf2k.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0065_zps7bcvmf2k.jpg.html)

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0071_zpsodfsjcbh.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0071_zpsodfsjcbh.jpg.html)

They are ported as well.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0064_zpslvwnmf4b.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0064_zpslvwnmf4b.jpg.html)

Copper’d up and ready for install.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0066_zpszhd17wrr.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0066_zpszhd17wrr.jpg.html)

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0067_zpsmtswylr5.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0067_zpsmtswylr5.jpg.html)

Delta Cam 272s

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0069_zpskdwpp7j7.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0069_zpskdwpp7j7.jpg.html)

3sx Cam gears set to 0. The cams didn’t have a cam card available so I intend to adjust them at the track. We’ll see if I get there.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0073_zps2ieueccz.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0073_zps2ieueccz.jpg.html)
I’m going to port match the lower intake before bolting it down. It looks like it has already been ground out, just needs some finish sanding work to make it smooth.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0074_zpssugwsues.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0074_zpssugwsues.jpg.html)

[familyMAN]

I would suggest decreeing so that you get the front and rear bank the same, and then adjust from there at the track for best results. Right now, I guarantee the cam timing is different comparing the banks if they are both set to "zero."

[sergechronos]

I would suggest decreeing so that you get the front and rear bank the same, and then adjust from there at the track for best results. Right now, I guarantee the cam timing is different comparing the banks if they are both set to "zero."

As an added note, those look like they may be 3SX cam gears (instead of Fidanzas) and if so you will want to double check the instructions for the cam gears on their website as they are basically backwards of most other aftermarket cam gears.

http://www.3sx.com/store/catalog/cam-gears-3sx-custom-17-labels-1255.jpg

[Uniuno]

Thanks for the input guys.

I've been back and forth a bunch on degreeing them. I know it is the preferred way to install cams. I even started making my own adjustable solid lifters to do it. However, I've never done it before, so adding to that that I don't have a cam card, I'm not sure how to do it. They say to degree them "to stock centerline", which doesn't mean much to me.

I just talked to a somewhat local friend who has experience degreeing these engines. He's very busy but I'm going to try to get the engine to him so we can get it done before NG.

Next up is getting the oil pan to clear the transfercase. There's a local welder I'm going to take that to since I don't have the equipment or skill to weld aluminum.

Turbos come in today, I'll compare them to stock center housings to answer the questions above.

[Keyan]

FYI, the cam gears I bought from 3SX were off time by a tooth. The timing mark for timing belt installlation was cut into the wrong tooth. I am glad I caught it before installing mine.

[sergechronos]

Thanks for the input guys.

I've been back and forth a bunch on degreeing them. I know it is the preferred way to install cams. I even started making my own adjustable solid lifters to do it. However, I've never done it before, so adding to that that I don't have a cam card, I'm not sure how to do it. They say to degree them "to stock centerline", which doesn't mean much to me.

I just talked to a somewhat local friend who has experience degreeing these engines. He's very busy but I'm going to try to get the engine to him so we can get it done before NG.


If you're not going to degree them, not worth installing them. You are as likely to lose performance as you would be to gain it. Cams can be wildly off from bank to bank and produce all manner of issues that can be impossible to tune around, differences of over 10 degrees between intake and exhaust make it that much harder to make power.

There's a few how to guides on doing it on the 6G engine that are easy to follow along with.

Btw, you only need 1 solid lifter. I found it easier to just buy one BLE solid from Ninja, but you could even buy the Summit kit for the Ford 4.6 engine and just modify the lifter.

[Uniuno]

FYI, the cam gears I bought from 3SX were off time by a tooth. The timing mark for timing belt installlation was cut into the wrong tooth. I am glad I caught it before installing mine.

Mine are supposedly the newer ones that they corrected the degree marks. It wouldn't hurt to recheck them to be safe though.

[Uniuno]

If you're not going to degree them, not worth installing them. You are as likely to lose performance as you would be to gain it. Cams can be wildly off from bank to bank and produce all manner of issues that can be impossible to tune around, differences of over 10 degrees between intake and exhaust make it that much harder to make power.

There's a few how to guides on doing it on the 6G engine that are easy to follow along with.

Btw, you only need 1 solid lifter. I found it easier to just buy one BLE solid from Ninja, but you could even buy the Summit kit for the Ford 4.6 engine and just modify the lifter.

You know, that was actually a deep conversation that I had with a buddy of mine. Knowing how smooth the engine runs with the stock components, would it even be worth it to mess with the 272s. In the end I thought setting them at the track or dyno would be the best, especially considering there isn't a cam card for them. There's a track not to far from here that has T&T every Wednesday night.

If nothing else, I still have the stock cams and I can switch them back in a weekend and sell these.

[Keyan]

Mine are supposedly the newer ones that they corrected the degree marks. It wouldn't hurt to recheck them to be safe though.

i'm not talking about the degree marks. I'm talking about the TIMING mark being cut into the wrong tooth of the gear.

[Uniuno]

Ahh, I didn't realize they had messed those up that bad. I'll make sure to double check. Thanks for the heads up!

[familyMAN]

If you degree them, it doesn't matter how bad the cam gears are messed up.

Just degree them. It's very satisfying and not very hard. Use the online calculator on webcams website. It does all the math for you. Since you don't have the cam card, just degree them to the stock center lines(search, it's posted here somewhere). Or just pick a random centerline like 107* and degree them all to that and then adjust on the dyno for the powerband you want.

[sergechronos]

If you degree them, it doesn't matter how bad the cam gears are messed up.

Just degree them. It's very satisfying and not very hard. Use the online calculator on webcams website. It does all the math for you. Since you don't have the cam card, just degree them to the stock center lines(search, it's posted here somewhere). Or just pick a random centerline like 107* and degree them all to that and then adjust on the dyno for the powerband you want.
Indeed, if adjusting the cams on the dyno, it won't matter. If you're going to set them to +1 -3 as the default, then I'd just adjust appropriately before hand. I would make sure to pin the cam gears sooner rather than later. Definitely don't want them slipping.

[Uniuno]

I would lose some adjustability (although hopefully I wouldn't be straying more than a few degrees of the center mark) if they were off by a whole tooth. I checked last night, they're all good, thankfully.

[Uniuno]

I got the turbos in. They look really nice, I'm very happy with the work Gpopshop did on the turbine housings. The CHRAs match the OEM housings. Thread size/pitch and locations are all what they need to be. The housings however will need to be clocked before installation.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0078_zpshm1xxtdx.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0078_zpshm1xxtdx.jpg.html)

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0083_zpsrhhvgwoz.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0083_zpsrhhvgwoz.jpg.html)

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0080_zpserlomhhh.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0080_zpserlomhhh.jpg.html)

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0079_zpsquobgeo3.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0079_zpsquobgeo3.jpg.html)

[Uniuno]

I started on the oil pan last night. I needed to get the trans bolted up to see where I need to cut the pan. The output shaft hits the corner of the pan, so that’s the first thing to go. I lopped that ear off, got the trans bolted up, made some marks, and pulled the pan. Well, tried anyway, apparently I didn’t take enough of the ear off to be able to remove the pan with the transmission still attached.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0085_zps9vtg9utb.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0085_zps9vtg9utb.jpg.html)

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0093_zpsj3b0ublk.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0093_zpsj3b0ublk.jpg.html)

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0096_zpshh6pgcyb.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0096_zpshh6pgcyb.jpg.html)

Obviously, a fair bit more needs to be cut out.

[familyMAN]

Why not use a TT pan and trim down the girdle. Super easy and cheap at any machine shop.

[Uniuno]

I did that last time I did the 74 conversion. Wanted to do it differently this time.

[futurevr4man]

The trans still has to be moved for me to get my 72 pan off my 74 block... but just like an inch. Stuff gets tight down there.

[Uniuno]

I went to town cutting out a large hole, big enough to clear the transfercase. I was trying to stay just about flush with the bottom of the girdle. I used cardboard to make a template before cutting into the sheet of aluminum.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0108_zpseqajopf1.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0108_zpseqajopf1.jpg.html)

I took the pan and the big piece of aluminum to the welder to have it tacked in place. I didn’t want it done for good in case it needed some adjustments. Turns out it did, so it was a good thing to take two trips.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0121_zpsu6bzvtmi.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0121_zpsu6bzvtmi.jpg.html)

This picture is of it as it is above with it tacked in place. The girdle actually ended up breaking one of the welds by pushing it down. I bent up the corner to the right to keep it in place once I removed the pan.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0123_zpsijic44sf.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0123_zpsijic44sf.jpg.html)

Oil return bung. Also, you can see in the background the two pieces that go on the ends.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0127_zpssprlu5ei.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0127_zpssprlu5ei.jpg.html)

Finished weld.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0129_zpska5jvzcf.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0129_zpska5jvzcf.jpg.html)

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0130_zpsahidyjh5.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Oil%20pan/DSC_0130_zpsahidyjh5.jpg.html)

There are two things I wish I had done differently.
1. I should have bolted it to a steel bar to keep it from warping. The one corner dropped a good ¼ inch. I was able to heat it up and suck it back to the block though, so it won’t leak once I put RTV on it.
2. The small piece on the end should have gone on the outside rather than the inside. I ended up having to do some grinding to get it to clear the girdle. The welder gave me plenty of meat to work with though, welding it from both sides.
I fit it all back on, I am even able to remove the pan with the transmission still attached. Although, I had taken the oil baffle out, so I’m not sure if that will be the case once it’s put back in.

[sergechronos]

Edit: for some reason, I am an idiot and mistook this for what I did today thread. Oops.

Also, oil pan looks good, being able to remove it with trans in place would be nice.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

looks good, make sure the rotating assembly clears.

[Uniuno]

Thank you, I made a special "dent" for the last rod cap that dips down. Learned that one when I did the 72 pan on the 74 last year. I can't stress enough how tight it is between the girdle and the transfercase. I could not have fit any thicker aluminum between the two. Glad the pan is done though, I don't like the parts of the build that I can't do completely on my own.

I'm waiting on my buddy for his availability to degree the cams and then I'll go ahead and order the transmission bellhousing brace to have that welded in since now I know a kick ass welder.

In the mean time, I'll finish putting the oil pan together and seal it up to the engine, get the turbos on and feed/return lines made, and start cleaning up the engine bay before dropping it in.

[futurevr4man]

Thank you, I made a special "dent" for the last rod cap that dips down. Learned that one when I did the 72 pan on the 74 last year. I can't stress enough how tight it is between the girdle and the transfercase. I could not have fit any thicker aluminum between the two. Glad the pan is done though, I don't like the parts of the build that I can't do completely on my own.

I'm waiting on my buddy for his availability to degree the cams and then I'll go ahead and order the transmission bellhousing brace to have that welded in since now I know a kick ass welder.

In the mean time, I'll finish putting the oil pan together and seal it up to the engine, get the turbos on and feed/return lines made, and start cleaning up the engine bay before dropping it in.

When I put in my 74/75 build with the 72 oil pan... it smacked. Spun fine by hand, but just clipped it when running. I thought the engine was shot right from the beginning.

[Uniuno]

My 72 pan hit in 3 places that I had to make clearance for. This is another reason I was wanting to use the aluminum pan this time around.

[Uniuno]

Finally got the Cams degreed over the weekend. I was at the mercy of my buddy who lives an hour and a half away and is usually busy working for RSR racing. He was able to get me in yesterday. So I hauled the engine and stand over to his place. He had machined an adapter to mate the degree wheel with the crank snout when he did his Stealth. His degree wheel was awesome, nice and big, and we used it to turn the crank rather than using a wrench or breaker bar.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0171_zpsit3d8nod.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0171_zpsit3d8nod.jpg.html)
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0172_zpse6n2v1tg.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0172_zpse6n2v1tg.jpg.html)

We wanted the exhaust cams centerline at 113* and intake at 107*. We got pretty close, exhausts ended up a half degree apart, which is plenty close enough for me.

Here are the numbers we came up with:

Front exhaust cam. 106 with the gear centered. Moved gear to -4 to achieve 113.25 degrees. Moving the gear -5 put the centerline at 15 degrees. Set back to -4.

Rear exhaust cam. 103.5 with the gear centered. Moving the gear -5 put it at 112.75.

Rear intake cam. 114 with gear centered. Went +3.5 degrees to achieve 107.5 centerline

Front intake cam. 109 gear centered, went +1 to 112.25 (oops). Moved to -1 to achieve 107.5

Not sure if I want to do the +1 -3 on top of this. If nothing else, I'll see what kind of power it makes and maybe do it later.

I'm not chasing every last 2.5 hp, I just want it to be reliable.

[sergechronos]

Not sure if I want to do the +1 -3 on top of this. If nothing else, I'll see what kind of power it makes and maybe do it later.

I'm not chasing every last 2.5 hp, I just want it to be reliable.

Definitely looks like a sweet degree wheel set up.

In so far as adjusting to +1 -3, you gain a pretty substantial gain throughout operating range due to bumping dynamic compression up. I'd probably go ahead to +1 -3 and pin them (unless maybe the new BC gears.)

[Uniuno]

Thanks for the input! I think I might just start it like this and then move it later so I can feel the gain. Free hp later! lol

Tonight I made some headway with some of the more tedious items. I was out in the garage for 4 hours but doesn't seem like I got much done.

Installed lifter shims, new '99 lifters, and rockers. Installed valve covers and oil pan. Applied locktight to the threads of the cam gear bolts. Installed lower intake.

Tomorrow night I'll start bolting on all the brackets, timing covers, and hopefully turbos. I still need to make the return lines for the turbos.

[familyMAN]

Definitely looks like a sweet degree wheel set up.

In so far as adjusting to +1 -3, you gain a pretty substantial gain throughout operating range due to bumping dynamic compression up. I'd probably go ahead to +1 -3 and pin them (unless maybe the new BC gears.)

Actually, +1 intake, -3 exhaust increases overlap and will likely decrease measured compression with a compression tester.

A blanket +1,-3 may not be the best for everyone. Every setup is different. Plus it depends on what you want to achieve. One setting may net higher peak hp but lower area under the curve. Another may net similar power but extend the rev range. Etc.

[98slept]

sexy build man. really sexy

[Uniuno]

Oops. I done goofed.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0188_zpsb0fbited.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0188_zpsb0fbited.jpg.html)

I shaved the old bung off and took another one I had laying around from the 3sx turbo feed kit and cut the ears off of it. I drilled a new hole and dropped it off with the welder this morning. Sucks to have to redo the oil pan, but that's what I get for rushing.

Got the turbos mounted last night. Seemed like everything was fighting me. The v-band clamp got in the way of the coolant lines on both sides so I had to adjust them. The rear coolant line on the rear turbo won't go around the bigger compressor housing. I cut it off a couple inches from the banjo bolt and will just run a rubber line to the thermostat housing. The rear coolant line on the front turbo wouldn't clear the block off plug in the lower port. I swapped ports but now the line is touching the motor mount bracket, not a big deal though, it will bend enough to move away.

The rear turbo waste gate lever is straight and was easy to get the waste gate linkage connected. The front one is at an angle and took some finagling to get to move smoothly without binding. I rigged up my pressure tester to work the waste gates and make sure they are moving at the same time.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0190_zpsjsfjcl6j.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0190_zpsjsfjcl6j.jpg.html)

That's all taken care of now so hopefully I'll get the pan back after work and get it reinstalled, make the oil drain lines, and get the engine dropped in the bay tonight.

[Uniuno]

Last night I got the pan back on, the new rear turbo drain location is better. Not as good as it could have been though. I was hung up trying to keep it as close to stock location. I should have moved it over toward the transmission more and it would have been a straight shot. FML

Oh well, oil lines are made, turbos mounted. I'll do the coolant lines once the engine is in the car and the thermostat housing is on. With any luck I'll be dropping the engine in tonight.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0191_zpszrxtqjrv.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0191_zpszrxtqjrv.jpg.html)

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0192_zps5ce3aeif.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0192_zps5ce3aeif.jpg.html)

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/DSC_0193_zpsvgh1y0ed.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/DSC_0193_zpsvgh1y0ed.jpg.html)

[Uniuno]

Got a lot of work done over the weekend. Alex3000GT was in town for the NASCAR race so he and another local Stealth owner buddy of ours came over Friday night and worked on the car until 4am. I worked all day Saturday, once I was able to wake up, and then I skipped the NASCAR race on Sunday due to the rain and wanting to get more work done on the car.


This is the first pic I took of the the engine in with the new clutch partially installed. One of the bolts broke while the other Josh was torquing down another bolt so it had to come back out so we could extract the broken part. Thankfully it came out easy.

You'll notice the dent in the subframe crossmember right under the clucth. This is from when the crankshaft snapped on the first engine I installed in the car.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0194_zpsxwealtrf.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0194_zpsxwealtrf.jpg.html)

Trans in.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0196_zpsa24bhmyb.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0196_zpsa24bhmyb.jpg.html)
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0197_zpsuknkpqfm.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0197_zpsuknkpqfm.jpg.html)

Munging up new IC piping.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0199_zpsrnnghz9o.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0199_zpsrnnghz9o.jpg.html)
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0200_zpsv5ikbefy.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0200_zpsv5ikbefy.jpg.html)

Made a "special tool"

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0201_zps4l3ta3hr.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0201_zps4l3ta3hr.jpg.html)
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0202_zps7p0sqo44.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0202_zps7p0sqo44.jpg.html)

Worked pretty well, I think.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0203_zps4qp0al4z.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0203_zps4qp0al4z.jpg.html)

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0204_zpsuehj6u3t.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0204_zpsuehj6u3t.jpg.html)

I know there's a lot of interest in fitment with the radiator. Seems to clear just fine.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0205_zpsoygggde4.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0205_zpsoygggde4.jpg.html)

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0206_zpsuirr62cj.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0206_zpsuirr62cj.jpg.html)

3SX fuel rails with ID1000s

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0207_zpsrpaqwpgf.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0207_zpsrpaqwpgf.jpg.html)
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0208_zpsvaxhtdgy.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0208_zpsvaxhtdgy.jpg.html)

[Uniuno]

Spal 12" low pro fans. Made the outline and applied weatherstripping.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0209_zps9chqraub.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0209_zps9chqraub.jpg.html)

Had to bend all the brackets, would be nice to have a brake, but the vice got the job done.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0210_zpsfw6breot.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0210_zpsfw6breot.jpg.html)

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0212_zpsd7bfem5c.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0212_zpsd7bfem5c.jpg.html)

Finished bay. I LOVE not having that pipe over the top in the front.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0213_zpssvkyrecp.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0213_zpssvkyrecp.jpg.html)

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0214_zpsijptnh4k.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0214_zpsijptnh4k.jpg.html)

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0215_zpsdptefgte.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0215_zpsdptefgte.jpg.html)

Before startup I had to remove the resistors I had in my ECU harness. I made this thing originally when I did my TT conversion in 2010.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0216_zps46hh6l6z.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/3k%202015/Drop%20in/DSC_0216_zps46hh6l6z.jpg.html)

I re-calibrated my flash for the 1000cc injectors and bumped the rev limit to 7500. My valvetrain is good for it, anyone know what RPM the stock oil pump gears come apart?

Tonight I’ll reinstall the ECU, flash it, add coolant, and start it.

[futurevr4man]

anyone know what RPM the stock oil pump gears come apart?


I've always heard ~7800 is when it starts to get... exciting.

[DocWalt]

You're ballsy, Josh. Hopefully you get to drive it more than last NG :) Firing up tonight?

[Uniuno]

I've always heard ~7800 is when it starts to get... exciting.

Good to know!


You're ballsy, Josh. Hopefully you get to drive it more than last NG :) Firing up tonight?

Thanks Kenny. I'm going to go by the SOS on the way home and get the registration transferred. I'll fire it up when I get home. My garage is a nasty soupy mess right now from the humidity, My floor sweats like a beast, so not really looking forward to being in that..

If all goes well I'll at least sign up for autoX, drags, and touring lap, break the car in the right way! Last time I did the road course in STL my brakes weren't so happy.

[Uniuno]

I encountered a minor setback when filling up the coolant. It sprung a leak. At first, it was hard to find where it was coming from, all the clamps were tight and hoses were dry. I removed the charge pipe and the turbo inlet pipes and was able to see it dripping down on the trans. It was coming from the water pump feed tube. Pulled it out to find the o-ring was just a little bit too small. I compared it to one on my old 3.0 engine. It was still like new so I swapped it over, put it all back together and no leaks!

Threw the ECU in, flashed it, and started it. It fired right up. I have some noisy lifters (they're brand new), but otherwise it ran great. 70PSI cold oil pressure with oreilly's 10-40, 20psi warm idle. I'm going to do one more heat cycle and then change it to castrol conventional 10-40 for break in.

I let it idle and kept feeding it with coolant. Eventually it hit 200 before the fans kicked on. Way too high. I must have grabbed an older tune from before I modified the fan tables. I shut it down and changed the fan tables so they turn on at 185. I started it and let it idle some more, it stayed right around 189.

That's about as far as I got with it. I need to put the plate back on it and swap the matching wheels on the rear before a test drive is going to happen. Need to adjust the clutch as well. I have about 4 inches off the floor before it starts to engage.

[Uniuno]

Last night was supposed to be a quick oil change, swap the wheels in the rear and road test. It ended up being a kick-in-the-nut-fest. My car apparently didn't want to leave the garage.

There was an oil leak from the rear turbo drain where it mounts to the pan, no big deal, I tightened it up a bit. Changed the oil and started it up. Instantly, the oil filter housing started pouring. I pulled the alternator, ac compressor, and compressor bracket, checked the bolts, they weren't loose, but they weren't really tight either. Tightened them up and had my ol' lady start the car while I watched for leaks underneath. No more leaks from there but I then began to smell fuel. Look back and it is dripping at a steady rate down the firewall. I had two clamps on the return line. I hadn't messed with this since I installed the FPR a few years ago. I tightened both of the clamps and added a third for good measure. Had her start it again. It then started dripping coolant out of the back of the block where there is a thread-in plug. So I tightened it up some more.

Finally, at 10:30, I took it for a drive. It ran pretty well, oil pressure was great to start, when it gets warm (close to 200F) it starts to get kind of low. About 35 psi while cruising at 2500 rpm and 15 at idle. I raised the idle to 950 when I originally flashed it. They guy I bought the engine from said it was built "loose". I figured 10-40 would be heavy enough, should I change to 20-50?

Also, it doesn't smoke at idle, but when I accelerate it smokes pretty bad. I've not had too many brandy new engines so I'm not sure how long smoke should be expected, but this car has been known to smoke. I was really hopeful that after replacing the engine, heads, and turbos that the smokeshow would be over.

When changing as much as I did I totally expect some tinkering to get it all right, it is still kind of disheartening to see it continue smoking though.

[futurevr4man]

I will recommend looking at what all of the big-dog vendors run for oil. I'll give you a hint: it's usually heavier than 10-40.

I personally run 20w-50

[murphys_law]

I've got 20-50 vr1 in mine. I built mine "loose" as well. Oil pressure is typically double the recommended 10psi/1k rpm. Even when hot.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

[FluffyCow]

Smoke on acceleration is rings I think. It takes time for fresh rings to seat if they're new. Also couldn't hurt to change the pcv for good measure

[DocWalt]

Not that I really have much in the ring regarding the 6G engines anymore... but 20w50 is used for good reason on engines that are built a bit looser, especially when they get hot. 15psi isn't that terrible though for a loose engine, IMO.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

20w50 is fine, but that is pretty bad oil pressure for 10w40. I'm running 24-26 at 800 RPM hot on 10w40 and 70+ PSI at 2500.

35 PSI at 2500 would scare me. You really ought to see 20 PSI per 1000 until you start getting over 70 PSI when the relief starts to open. You also shouldn't really see any smoke on a new motor built right. I've never had any smoke from mile 1. Is your tune okay? Wideband reading okay?

I wish we had a better definition of loose than you have .002 is "loose" to me and could still make a good street engine, but if an engine builder thinks .003 is nice and loose for a street motor you are going to have low oil pressure.

[murphys_law]

.002 here.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

FYI Ray has mentioned to me several times that a motor making 100+ PSI at high rpm pretty much won't blow up. He likes to see the most pressure possible to keep the oil film layer the strongest and keep the crank from flexing. That's why he likes 20w50 so much.

[Uniuno]

20-50 it is then. Thanks for the tips guys.

That reminds me, I need to get a hold of the guy I got the engine from and see if he used a turbo oil relief spring. I know he replaced the oil pump, so hopefully it was for a turbo model. I imagine it would be, but being a 74 engine I'm not sure. My last 74 engine had an NA spring in the pump. I'll also ask him if he has a build sheet or anything for it.

I'd like to throw a catch can in it. I know some people swear by them and others don't even use them. I don't think Ray does on his red car.

[Uniuno]

I picked up some 20-50 VR1 last night and then started ripping into it to see where the oil is coming from.

Charge pipes and throttle body were bone dry. I pulled the intake and found the lower intake runners soaked in oil. #3 and #5 seemed worse than the rest. I pulled the plugs and found #1 was black and wet. Did a compression test and it was 180 across the board except for #3 which was only hitting 165. I put a little squirt of oil in it and it came up to 180.

I made a PVC Home Depot catch can to see if maybe it's the PCV system causing the oil. It seem like there is a direct oil feed to the lower intake, it is very wet.

Could PCV cause the VSS to leak that bad? The valve covers still have baffles so I don't see that much oil getting through the PCV valve. When I pulled the hose off the PCV it was dry.

[Uniuno]

Well, the car isn't going to be on the road again any time soon. The catch can idea was fruitless. I had an engine building buddy of mine come over to get a second opinion. He pulled the oil cap off and there was a lot of blow by coming out. We stuck a boroscope down the cylinders and of course they are just soaked with oil. There is no amount of finagling the PCV system to take care of the amount of oil it goes through.

Besides all this, there is a substantial amount of noise developing in the lower end. It's going to have to come apart.

I can't tell you how many times I've said "Part-out" over the last few days. I'm tired of throwing good money after bad on this car. I guess it won't cost anything to take it apart and see what's going on, but this is very depressing.

[DocWalt]

Well, the car isn't going to be on the road again any time soon. The catch can idea was fruitless. I had an engine building buddy of mine come over to get a second opinion. He pulled the oil cap off and there was a lot of blow by coming out. We stuck a boroscope down the cylinders and of course they are just soaked with oil. There is no amount of finagling the PCV system to take care of the amount of oil it goes through.

Besides all this, there is a substantial amount of noise developing in the lower end. It's going to have to come apart.

I can't tell you how many times I've said "Part-out" over the last few days. I'm tired of throwing good money after bad on this car. I guess it won't cost anything to take it apart and see what's going on, but this is very depressing.

I've been there, dude. :( Sorry to hear the issues :eh:

[murphys_law]

Damn, that sucks. Sorry to hear it.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

[Uniuno]

I've been there, dude. :( Sorry to hear the issues :eh:

If anyone has, you have. I applaud your resolve to keep going with it.

[DocWalt]

Damn, that sucks. Sorry to hear it.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Sorry, but I lol'd at your username in a build thread that's gone in an undesired direction...


If anyone has, you have. I applaud your resolve to keep going with it.

:thumbup: Just gotta enjoy the company of everyone at NG and see all the neat cars to get you hyped up again. Gonna tear it apart before NG?

[green-lantern]

Sorry to hear about the issues :(

[Uniuno]

Sorry, but I lol'd at your username in a build thread that's gone in an undesired direction...



:thumbup: Just gotta enjoy the company of everyone at NG and see all the neat cars to get you hyped up again. Gonna tear it apart before NG?

I actually laughed when I saw his username had commented in the thread too. The irony..

I'm looking forward to hanging out with a bunch of people that can feel my pain lol I'm hoping that it will relight the fire and motivate me to tear back into it when I get home.

Instead of wasting any more time on my car I'm going to install the EWG on Char's WRX. Right now it is stuck at wastegate pressure after installing a VF-52. I'm hoping I can run the events that I signed up for in her car. Might be doing some mail tunes with the tuner through the week. So it should be fun anyway.

[DocWalt]

Glad to hear you have a backup plan!

[Unlogic]

Sad to hear about the engine problems. Your threads are always inspiring to follow so I hope it's nothing major!

[Uniuno]

I forgot I never updated this. Last year was a rough year for cars.

I took my car to a fellow 3S enthusiast's house to make room for other activities in my own garage. It is still sitting there while I work on my Stealth. When I dropped it off it wasn't smoking as much. I'm tempted to try throwing in some 20-50 oil and see what it does.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/DSC_0289_zpslpfxicdh.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/DSC_0289_zpslpfxicdh.jpg.html)

Last I reported I had decided to take my GF's 08 WRX to NG. Thankfully, we towed it there. While we were there we drove it around a bit and did some mail tuning. Couldn't seem to get the boost where we wanted it. We thought it was due to the wastegate setup. I put on an external wastegate that should have cured those issues. It didn't. We decided to run it at wastegate pressure (14 PSI) to prevent overboosting. The tuner told us it was safe at that level.

We took it to the drag strip at NG, she ran first, didn't like her launch so she didn't flog it the rest of the way down the track. I took a turn with it, I had a decent, but not great launch, and ended up running a 14.2 at like 98 or something. When I got back to the pits the engine was making a slight tapping sound. All too familiar with that noise, I went back to the hotel with my truck and got the trailer.

I was finally able to tear into it a couple months later. The #2 rod bearing had spun. The mains looked great, and so did the rest of the rods. I took the rods and the crank to the machine shop, they resized the rods and turned the rod journals and just polished the mains. They gave me the correct clevite bearings to make up the difference for what material they removed.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/Chars%20Subaru/DSC_0434_zpswfbgiwst.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/Chars%20Subaru/DSC_0434_zpswfbgiwst.jpg.html)

I left the pistons in the block halves, they had good compression and we weren't upgrading them so there was no reason to remove them.

I cleaned the hell out of the block, oil pump, lines, etc.

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/Chars%20Subaru/DSC_0428_zpsxlc8kltw.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/Chars%20Subaru/DSC_0428_zpsxlc8kltw.jpg.html)

Goofy thing, for those unfamiliar (as was I) with horizontally opposed engines, you install the con-rods on the crank before putting the crank into the block.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr275/uniuno/Chars%20Subaru/DSC_0427_zps41bnzese.jpg (http://s491.photobucket.com/user/uniuno/media/Chars%20Subaru/DSC_0427_zps41bnzese.jpg.html)

I learned a lot about how these things go together. It really made me miss the simplicity of the 6G engines! It has been running now for over 4000 miles. It has even made a couple ~400 mile trips. Oil pressure is holding strong. I removed the EWG setup and have been running it only at 8 psi. We won't be doing anything else to it until she passes the Bar exam.