2G Oilpan turbo return ports

[reses]

I'm rebuilding a NA engine and I was planing to put a set of stock 9Bs, its a 93+ NA block so.. no TT oil pan fits there (unless I replace the pump with a 91-92), so.. I was considering 10AN fittings, steel should be the material that will stick to the Oil pan right? So, next question, Can I just weld the returns (steel) and cap those (aluminum cap) until I am ready to put the TT conversion? I dont like the idea of removing the oil pan and all that rtv again lol

I heard that aluminum and steel dont go well at high temps, last thing I want is to leak all the oil in a runing engine lol

That kind of fittings (aluminum on steel fitting) can withstand the oil pressure and temps from the oilpan? both are AN fittings, those shouldnt leak??


http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/z/7nYAAOxyXDhSnsda/$_35.JPG

http://www.locashdyno.com/store2/images/an-weld-fitting.gif

[sergechronos]

Short answer: Use a steel bung, you can cap it with aluminum until you're ready.

Long answer: The OEM pan is steel, so yes your best bet is to weld a steel bung on there.

It sounds like you're planning on welding it when the oil pan is on the car (if I'm reading this right) which I wouldn't recommend. Obviously there's oil residue and such inside the pan you're going to want to remove (since the heat from welding could cause a fire inside your engine), and it'd be difficult to get a complete weld around it with the oil pan on the car.

Keep in mind the bung has to be placed above how high the oil usually sits to drain properly. Ideal way to do this would be to pull the pan, scrub it down with an oil removing cleaner several times to be sure you got it all out and then have it TIG welded into place. You could probably tack it on with a MIG welder and then go back and stitch it together, but you may want to cap the threads already at that point to keep from getting any weld splatter on them.

[futurevr4man]

I think he wants to do it with the pan off, hence his "I dont like the idea of removing the oil pan and all that rtv again lol"

[reses]

Yeah, I have the oil pan out of the car, actually I got some Steel bungs (10AN would be OK? ) then I ordered some 10AN caps (aluminum) and was thinking about the aluminum-steel connection, that would be OK for everyday driving until I add the TT parts? A cap like the one in the picture would work with that kind of temp/pressure/stress or its safer to get a steel one? Also I was thinking of adding the ports just where the TT pan have the returns.

[futurevr4man]

It will be fine. Temps aren't going to melt the aluminum and there isn't that much pressure (turbo's drain into the pan... can't have pressure or it wouldn't drain super great) and there won't be any stress.

You'll be A-OK

[reses]

Great, thanks, so good to go, How does this pan looks to you, pulled a dent but still doesn't look like a bowl (the pic from the spun bearing #1 cause), hammer time!!

http://i.imgur.com/Pvauhqz.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HCbZirP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/TMTLDx5.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/XOoMhef.jpg

[Bloodlust182]

Just pound out the Circle where the sump sits in. It doesn't look too bad actually, but I'd still pound it out a little.

[Uniuno]

I have an NA pan with -10 fittings already welded on that I used for my TT conversion, never leaked or gave me any issues. I've since moved on and don't need it anymore. Make me an offer if you're interested.

[reses]

Uhm, that was great a great option.. I already got mine drilled and bought some fittings, just need to apply my nasa welding skills (jk.. bringing the pan to a place), did you put the fittings in the same spot as stock?

[Uniuno]

Yeah, pretty close. I was able to use the 3sx feed/return line kit on them. I have since replaced that set up with lines and reusable fittings from Summit. The 3sx kit is great, just a little pricey.