Reducing brake drag

[sen2two]

I'm looking for ways to reduce or eliminate brake drag on my 95 VR4.

I'm not looking to upgrade to aftermarket brakes as my stock ones are more than enough fire my car. I'm just looking for a way to modify my current set up to let the rotors spin freely without dragging on the pads.

Anyone here done this?

[R/T93]

Completely free? You would have to get a drag racing type setup, they are about the only true no drag designs out there. I do not think they are street legal, however.

If your brakes are really dragging there is something wrong. If you jack your car up, you should be able to turn the wheel with a bit of force and it will probably spin a few revolutions. If not, that is not normal.

[Memphetic]

Full floating setups, like the one ABM is selling, are the only way to really "fix" that. However, you will then have brake chatter and it costs significant change. It's a tradeoff.

Like R/T said, though... if your wheels are tough to spin by hand or bind up before rotating even three times, you have an issue.

[anyonebutme]

I don't understand why anyone would want to do this beyond land speed record attempts. Proper functioning calipers don't drag enough to have a measurable effect on anything, and zero drag calipers result in wonky and long pedal feel. BUT, what you want is easily doable. Look up the pad spring style used in ford superduty calipers, and some other calipers like Honda SUV, find one that has the dimensions you need and drill some small holes in your pad backing plate for install. They are a royal pain to deal with but will give you the desired result.

No, you will not get a MPG benefit from this, BTW.

[sen2two]

With no wheels on the rear. I still have to turn my the rotors with some force for them to move. They definitely do not spin freely for a few revolutions. I did not find any problems visually.

Are there dimensions I can check to see if mine are binding somewhere causing excessive drag?

[R/T93]

Your calipers probably just need a rebuild. Pistons likely dragging. Rebuild kits are cheap and you can do it all with hand tools.

[anyonebutme]

With no wheels on the rear. I still have to turn my the rotors with some force for them to move. They definitely do not spin freely for a few revolutions. I did not find any problems visually.

Are there dimensions I can check to see if mine are binding somewhere causing excessive drag?

If you have a vr4.....you are trying to move all 4 wheels. Don't forget there's an LSD in their rear and center diff's.

[green-lantern]

If you want to see if they are dragging get a temp gun and drive down the road about 60mph trying not to use the brakes at all. Then pull off using the e-brake and check the temps on the rotors. They all should be about the same temp. I think when I did this before they were about 160F or less. If one is much hotter you know it's hanging up.

[anyonebutme]

Much safer and easier to undo the 4 bolts holding the axle on, then turn it by hand.

[CoopKill]

Could be the e-brake shoes draging as well...

[green-lantern]

Much safer and easier to undo the 4 bolts holding the axle on, then turn it by hand.

How is that easier than driving down the road a mile? other than having to buy the temp gun? lol It's not dangerous ether.

[anyonebutme]

How is that easier than driving down the road a mile? other than having to buy the temp gun? lol It's not dangerous ether.

I can just imagine someone ripping the ebrake handle at 60MPH.......then saying "you told be to", not to mention that in addition to buying a temp gun, getting readings from a shiny surface requires the knowledge that you're actually taking the reading of what it's reflecting, so you'd have to shoot it dead straight and really close. And using the e-brake at all will result in heating the rear brake rotor.

Takes like 10 minutes max to jack up the rear of the car and remove a few bolts, then turn the wheel. It takes me longer than that to get to a road I can even get to 60 MPH on and then stop without brakes...........because city.

[green-lantern]

I can just imagine someone ripping the ebrake handle at 60MPH.......then saying "you told be to", not to mention that in addition to buying a temp gun, getting readings from a shiny surface requires the knowledge that you're actually taking the reading of what it's reflecting, so you'd have to shoot it dead straight and really close. And using the e-brake at all will result in heating the rear brake rotor.

Takes like 10 minutes max to jack up the rear of the car and remove a few bolts, then turn the wheel. It takes me longer than that to get to a road I can even get to 60 MPH on and then stop without brakes...........because city.

Really? lol, there is more of a chance of the car falling on him than "ripping" the e-brake up and crashing. :lo5l:

It's BS you can't get a good reading with a temp gun BTW.

Not to mention you still wont feel a slight hang up spinning the wheel compared to checking temps. If you are unbolting the axles you will need to remove the axle boots also or just remove them all together.


Disclaimer:
OP, if you have a temp gun or know somebody that owns one that you can't borrow please don't "rip" the e-brake when performing this test. It doesn't really hurt to use the normal brakes.

Also if you are unbolting shit under the car please use jack stands because people that rip e-brakes at 60 don't normally use jackstands. :rolleyes:

[R/T93]

Your temp gun must have adjustable emmisitivity to be able to measure the reflective surface. You basic 40-100$ gun from home Depot won't have it.
A regular gun might tell you it's colder or hotter side to side but the actual # wouldn't be accurate.

[anyonebutme]

If you are unbolting the axles you will need to remove the axle boots also or just remove them all together.


No, you don't. They unbolt from the outside in the rear, so there is no need to remove anything except 4 bolts per side to check. Remember he's concerned about the rears not spinning, 4 bolts per side, you don't even have to pull them off the stubaxle. It's a moot point anyways as I was just trying to make the point that what he is feeling is in fact the rear diff's LS unit. Since he already stated that his wheels are off the car I assumed his car is already jacked up and standed. Usually for me that precluded me from doing any tests on the road.


I think we are on different wavelengths.

[green-lantern]

Your temp gun must have adjustable emmisitivity to be able to measure the reflective surface. You basic 40-100$ gun from home Depot won't have it.
A regular gun might tell you it's colder or hotter side to side but the actual # wouldn't be accurate.

lol trust me it works fine. I can bake a rotor and show you if you want. You are mainly just looking for a variance anyway. you don't need to point at the shiny part if you don't want to. I've done it several times.



No, you don't. They unbolt from the outside in the rear, so there is no need to remove anything except 4 bolts per side to check. Remember he's concerned about the rears not spinning, 4 bolts per side, you don't even have to pull them off the stubaxle. It's a moot point anyways as I was just trying to make the point that what he is feeling is in fact the rear diff's LS unit. Since he already stated that his wheels are off the car I assumed his car is already jacked up and standed. Usually for me that precluded me from doing any tests on the road.


I think we are on different wavelengths.

That's cool, I was just defending that it's not hard or unsafe.

[KeithMac]

Temp gun if you have one, a bit of spit on your finger works as well for hunting down binding brakes..

[drew0u812]

Temp gun if you have one, a bit of spit on your finger works as well for hunting down binding brakes..

+1 for spit on finger.

[green-lantern]

+1 for spit on finger.

Are we still talking cars or sex?

[Street_Chally73]

Are we still talking cars or sex?

Both ;)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=q0S642NtHtE

[green-lantern]

lol that's sad