Automatic tranny issues

[Hydralisk17]

I recently got a transmission fluid change on my 1995 3k. previous fluid was brown and bad from the previous owner. anyway i ddnt have any issues before, but the first time it was changed, i bought the wrong fluid by acident. It was automatic fluid, but i guess the wrong kind. So it was having issues shifting, i think it was slipping, but this is my first car, and im not 100% sure. in any case, i took it back to a shop and had them drain it, and put in some new. its shifting a little better now, but it seems when the car is still cool, sometimes when i give it a little throttle, it feels like it misses the shift(?) and the rpm will spike a few hundred and the car will lurch forward, sometimes even causes the tires to squeal. I dont know why it is doing this, maybe permanent damage from the previous bad fluid, or still the wrong kind, but i feel if it continues the damage may be worse. If it is the wrong kind, anyone know what i need? something i can find at autozone perhaps? i would prefer not to have to have something shipped from 3sx

[stealthee]

The previous fluid was likely burnt and full of clutch material. Doing the fluid change likely actually caused the remainder of the demise of the transmission. I had it happen to me on a 1.8 Eclipse I owned back in the day. Car had high mileage, I changed the fluid hoping to help it, but it went completely out a week or so later.

So basically the "bad fluid" didn't cause damage, the damage caused the bad fluid and the fluid change is what is causing your new issues.

[Keyan]

once you put the wrong trans fluid into it, it was done for. the new fluid soaks into the clutch packs which will have different friction modifiers in it causing the slipping and such. there is no way to get all the old fluid out.

[IPD]

I agree with both of the above.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

yeah with an atx either change it regularly or never. Everyone that I've ever heard of changing it at 100K or something like that has it go out almost instantly. Just leave it alone.

[Hydralisk17]

I got it changed the second time almost immediately after the bad was put in it, less than 200 miles i think. and the mechanic checked the transmission at the time and it seemed to be working fine. do i just need to get it flushed? will that help? is it pointless now and just gonna wear out the transmission? Also the first fluid drained fine, no clutch material or any metal pieces.

[Granny]

Double check the fluid level.
When I had mine changed it would be anywhere from 1/2 to 1 quart low after the fluid worked thru the system.
I would top it off again and everything would smooth out.

[fastbikes76]

Also worth overfilling it slightly. Mine since fitting the shift kit would do the same until the fluid level was a good half inch above the max hot mark. Been absolutely perfect since then.

8-)


Sent from my dog n bone

[Hydralisk17]

Thanks, worth looking into. Any particular fluid you guys recommend? Would not like to run into these issues again lol and also while im here, even though its the wrong thread for this, i have to replace all 4 motor mounts. Is it worth getting the polyurethane over standard, if i hope to keep this car for a long time?

[IPD]

My $.02:

Rubber mounts will last you 10 years--on stock power. They may age faster in certain climates/conditions, and that can be exacerbated by power-levels. Overall though, 10 years on stock mounts should be easy. If you don't feel like messing with that--then go poly. I stuck to rubber, because like the cushion.

ATX fluid? Valvoline full synthetic is what i've ran most. i don't really know what other full synthetic ATX fluids are widely available.

[Hydralisk17]

Oh i hope to not keep it stock for long :P I may go with poly, doesnt seem like much of a price difference for a some longer durability. It seems the trans problems was caused by low fluid levels lololol Great job shop. just added some fluid and 99% of the problem is gone. Thanks guys for your help!

[IPD]

please don't take this as a knock.

I really think people overestimate the "need for longevity" when replacing motor mounts. if it's a power level thing, and all that--fine, go with solid and vibrate your fillings loose. doesn't bother me in the slightest.

stock mount rubber is just fine for 99% of the cars out there. i guarantee that IF you still have your car in 10 years, you won't really think back and go "hmmm, those new rubber mounts were a total waste". heck, you'll probably have the engine pulled for the 50th time anyways--just in case you decide to change your mind.

[sergechronos]

If you're just replacing stock, you'd need to get some custom poly. The existing poly mounts for the car are all pretty hard, certainly harder than OEM rubbers to where you would notice the difference. OEM replacements aren't too expensive IIRC

[IPD]

If you're just replacing stock, you'd need to get some custom poly. The existing poly mounts for the car are all pretty hard, certainly harder than OEM rubbers to where you would notice the difference. OEM replacements aren't too expensive IIRC

agreed. i love my OEM replacements.