AEM UEGO for narrowband? Who is right??

[GRSHOPR]

I've been reading up on using my UEGO white wire to replace narrowband functions for the ECU, since I don't have an O2 sensor in my dp. I have a 91 JDM motor, harness, and ECU. I've read 4-5 posts so far, and they're split down the middle. Some say I can splice that wire into the ECU, others say I can't. Can anyone definitively say which way it is? Thanks.

[futurevr4man]

im not so sure that you could. the narrow band only outputs a 0-1v reading whereas the aem outputs 0-5v...

im not saying you cant, but IF you cant thats the only reason i can see. but then again im no 3s expert like some of these guys

[GRSHOPR]

im not so sure that you could. the narrow band only outputs a 0-1v reading whereas the aem outputs 0-5v...

im not saying you cant, but IF you cant thats the only reason i can see. but then again im no 3s expert like some of these guys

I was told that as well, and made me wonder as to the validity of it too, but then I see guys saying yes on other threads, and even giving out pin numbers, such as #53. Who is right?

[KeithMac]

I think #53 is the EGR input to allow you to log the wideband output to a logger?.

If the AEM hasn`t got a specific "Narrowband Output wire" then you can`t wire it up to the stock ECU as a replacement for the stock O2`s.

[RL7]

You can if the white wire is a 0-1V simulated narrowband output. I did this for about a day with my plx and decided I didn't like the ecu messing with my tune. Did a good job of targeting 14.7 in closed loop though. I run with no O2 signal to the ecu (except wideband to egrt for logging purposes).

[GRSHOPR]

Then the next question is- IS it a 1V? Or 5V? How do you not run lean without an O2 sensor?? I chill around 14-15 at cruise, and about 12-13 at acceleration.

[GRSHOPR]

And it is "analog output. connects to an auxilary unit that accepts a 0-5V input."

[RL7]

You have to tune with a piggyback or standalone to run correctly with no narrowband signal. If you aren't doing that, you will want to give the ecu a signal. It's also a good idea to have an AFR gauge to keep an eye on things with no narrowband. Looks like the white wire is 0-5V and that will not make the ecu happy. The blue wire outputs something, but I don't think it's 0-1V (it could be). You could check it with a volt-meter. You could reinstall the narrowband for normal driving. Wideband is good for tuning, but a narrowband is fine for making sure nothing is TOO out of the ordinary. Best would be to either tune it or add another bung so you can have both signals.

[CCrunner84]

I'd throw in a narrowband just to make the computer happy, being your a TT swap using a JDM harness the connector should be right there too.

[GRSHOPR]

It is, I just didn't want to have to yank the dp off to weld another bung on. I have a WB, but is there any way to tune the fuel trim without a stand alone or piggyback system??

Hey Nick, did you get my pm about that hotwire?? The site was acting all funny, not sure if it got through.

[GRSHOPR]

On a completely unrelated topic, since I don't feel like making a new thread, sometimes when I give the car some gas, and the turbos start to spool up, it chokes. Quick, but extreme stutters. Thoughts? Also, is it normal for the car to backfire when I have my foot completely off the gas, while still in gear?? You can hear the tranny slowing the RPM's down, but when it hits a certain point, regardless of the gear, it backfires. Normal?? Horribly wrong?? It also backfires when I take my foot off the gas while it's accelerating, and leaving it in gear. Is this normal, due to the sudden back pressure?

[stealthee]

It is, I just didn't want to have to yank the dp off to weld another bung on. I have a WB, but is there any way to tune the fuel trim without a stand alone or piggyback system??

Hey Nick, did you get my pm about that hotwire?? The site was acting all funny, not sure if it got through.

How do you expect to tune without a fuel tuner?

[futurevr4man]

you cant tune without some kind of fuel controller. there is no aftermarket for any kind of ecu tuning (without buying an aftermarket ecu... $$$) on these cars. these arent hondas.

the ecu needs an o2 signal so it doenst go crazy when its in closed loop, or so it doesnt keep you in open loop (which is exactly what i think my issue is)

do you have a 1st gen, hybrid, or later ecu? aka OBDI, hybrid, or OBDII?
if you have a 1st gen car, your cas sensor may be off a bit. my buddy said on his 1st gen it made huge differences in acceleration, stuttering etc. seeing as i dont know what kind of car you have (i guess a tt swap from what another member said) its hard to diagnose any issue like yours

[GRSHOPR]

It's a 91 JDM motor, harness, and ECU, so OBD I, in a 94 base (hybrid). I hadn't really messed with the CAS at all yet, but I'll look into it. From what you say, it may explain all of my symptoms, from (I'm making a semi-educated guess here) too aggressive a timing?

Without an AFPR, I was just hoping there was a little trick or shortcut that I hadn't come across yet, but I should have known better. I suspect I'm stuck in open loop, since it's not reading any O2 sensor.

Brian, you seem rather electronically savvy. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't there a step down transformer or some device that accomplishes the same without the voltage regulation, that can reduce the volts from 0-5, to 0-1?? I may be wrong, and I'm not trying to fight what seems to be the inevitable, but if memory serves, and that device exists, maybe it could be of benefit to quite a few people.

Edit: They're called voltage translators. They seem to be able to do exactly what I was thinking, and they're REALLY cheap. Just have to find one in the given ranges.

[x2percentmilk]

that would work assuming that wideband and narrowband o2 sensors work the same with the only difference being the scale...which they dont

http://www.wmswideband.com/tech.htm

scroll down about half way

[GRSHOPR]

F*&#. So much for that idea. I assume I should just give it up?

[x2percentmilk]

is there not enough space under the car when jacked up to weld another bung on?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AVM-30-2355-300/?rtype=10
seems super expensive for what it is but might be helpful

[RL7]

You could sell your wideband and buy one with a simulated narrowband output. PLX and Innovate have units with that feature.

[CCrunner84]

If you need some help feel free to give me a call, I'd get a hold of that air compressor, we can do a pressure check real quick. I'd take the car down to that Vasquez? place, they'd charge you literally nothing to weld a bung on.

Edit: Base timing isn't hard to set either, I can grab a timing light if you don't have one.

[GRSHOPR]

Thanks Nick. That'd be great. I don't have a light. Out of curiousity, since I've never even needed one before, how crucial is the timing light?? Theoretically, couldn't I just ground it out, and then adjust it by feel? Does the light just save time, or does it play some more crucial role that I'm not realizing?

Those injector insulators should be here by this weekend, so, what are you doing next Saturday or Sunday? May as well just do it all at once, and then we could pressure test it once they're in. I'll shoot you a text.

Milk, I wish I could do it, but, like body work and painting, welding is one of those skills I have yet to learn, much less be proficient. Trust me, I wish I was fully self-sufficient. It sucks.

[11secondFWD]

I have my aem uego hooked up for narrowband simulation on dsm link and it works great. You just have to pick the input. But I dont know about the 3s. On my 11 sec FWDTT. I got rid off all o2 sensors and tuned my safc off of my aem uego wideband and it worked great! I highly recommend it.

[GRSHOPR]

I don't have a DSM link, nor a SAFC, though.

[GRSHOPR]

And am I correct in thinking that the reason I can't build any real amount of boost, and also the reason my car falls flat on its face whenever the turbos are spooling up is due to a boost leak?? When boost actually starts building, the engine seems to almost stall, but it doesn't really, and it's far too massive to just be called stuttering. Also, should I be hearing my BOV at all times when I'm accelerating?

[GRSHOPR]

OK,so scratch the falling on it's face part. It sounds like spark blowout. I have the plugs gapped at 0.028. Too narrow?

The plugs are new NGK's, but they're non-resistor plugs and run colder, as I had originally planned to go E-85, and these were recommended. If needed, I can get the model number.

[GRSHOPR]

Anyone?? I also narrowed it down to only happening between 3000-3500 RPM's, and only in 2nd, 3rd or 4th.

[91STT]

I have the AEM UEGO and I have it wired to simulate the stock narrowband. The instructions are not clear but the white analog wire can be set to output 0-1V. Set the calibration screw to P4 for Nernst emulation. I have mine in the stock rear bung so I wired it to pin #56. The thing I did notice is that the waveform is not quite the same as the stock front one. The peaks seem clipped. They also seem to lag the front ones by a little; probably attributed to the conversion from WB to NB. I have not noticed any driveability issues but they do work fine.

[GRSHOPR]

Thanks 91. What if I only have one O2 sensor, it being a JDM motor? What pin then?

[91STT]

I don't have the JDM info nor do I know what the difference is between the 2 ECUs.
Maybe someone else here may be able to chime in about that.
Otherwise, you can always trace it back and get a DMM to verify.
If the JDM uses the standard O2 sensor, the signal is on the white wire at the sensor.

[donniekak]

If you put the rotary knob on the back of the uego gauge to p04, the white wire is a 0-1v simulated narrow band. Do not splice it into the stock o2 wire. Cut the 02 sensor wires(front and back) and solder the white wire, and both 02 inputs together into the ecu. I run all of my cars like this, and it works fine.