Trying to figure out why my reman 6-speed is failing...

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

Backstory is my Cherry Hill reman 6-speed shifted notchy from the first day I used it. Then after some NLTS and track passes it began to block me out of 3rd (sometimes 4th) gear at high rpm. The 1-2 shift also became worse.

The first oil drainage looked like hell. Full of metal. This was after about 1k miles and 1 track visit. I used 10w-30 Mobil 1 at the time.

Filled it with RP 75w-90 and shifting felt a little better, but still notchy. Still getting blocked out of the 3rd gear shift at high rpm. Put another 1k miles on that fluid and drained it the other day, still some metal but nothing at all like the first oil drainage.

Now I have the bellhousing off to send over to Pampena and I can see the 2nd gear engagement teeth are looking pretty bad for 2k miles on them. They aren't shot, but they're worse than all the other gears. All the other gear engagement teeth look perfect, including 1st.

So what should I be looking for to explain the gear blocking at high rpm and 2nd gear wear? Should it be a shift fork issue? A gear shaft or something not shimmed properly? Could my clutch hub being loose on the disc have something to do with it (another issue I discovered upon trans removal)?

The only things I can note that I saw are:

- the shift cable attachment on the top of the trans, the one with rubber sandwiching the bracket holes, had some play while the bolts were tight
- it's very difficult to move the shift forks between gears by hand with the bellhousing off. Not sure if that is normal.

Halp me please!

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

if the clutch hub was damaged it may have caused the clutch to drag.

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

if the clutch hub was damaged it may have caused the clutch to drag.

This was the first thing Ray mentioned when I asked him about what it might be last year. Said to check the clutch adjustment, which was where it should be. That would make a lot of sense now that I know the disc has some play on the hub.

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

I noticed another thing while looking at the internals. There are RTV bits everywhere. When I took the case apart the RTV overhang inside was huge. That could contribute to issues, correct? I don't know how to clean it all out either. I can see it's inside of bearings, so I'm sure it's places I can't see. This is after 2 fluid changes.

That aside, anyone know how difficult it should be to move the shift forks through the gears by hand? I damn near have to make my fingers bleed to do it by hand. Seems like this could be related to the notchy shifting feeling I'm getting. The gear sliders on the last trans moved easy by hand once the gear shaft was in my hand, but I didn't try moving them with the forks.

[NOMIEZVR4]

I've got a great link I'll post for you when I'm on the computer about clutch adjustment...

in the meantime are you referring to the gear selector mechanism on the trans and how hard it should be? Mine is very easy to move from gear to gear by hand without any cables attached.

[Keyan]

you put 10w30 in the trans? uuh.

[NOMIEZVR4]

Clutch Drag is The #1 Killer of Transmissions!


Transmission Care and Tips

Thank-you for choosing Jacks Transmissions for your transmission rebuild! We take great care to assure proper operation of the unit before it leaves our facility. We pride ourselves in our ability to modify the synchro slider timing to allow for the fastest and most accurate synchronization possible. In other words, your transmission should shift better than any other unit you have felt before! Though there is a huge amount of time spent on your transmission to assure superior synchro operation, this does not mean they can never be damaged or feel notchy if something else is wrong. The #1 reason for transmission synchro failure is due to clutch issues. Please read below for tips on how to recognize a clutch problem before it ruins your transmission. Becoming aware of clutch problems could save you thousands of dollars in transmission repairs in the future.

1)The transmission should never feel notchy or block you from a gear while shifting (some people call it ‘lockout’). If this happens, NEVER force the transmission into gear or the synchro will be ruined! This applies at any engine RPM. If it shifts smooth at low RPM, but it blocks you at high RPM, there is a clutch problem and it must be fixed immediately! When a transmission blocks you from a gear, you are experiencing what we call ‘clutch drag’. This means the clutch is not letting go of the disk fully and dragging on the assembly. An adjustment might need to be made, or the clutch could be excessively warped at the pressure plate. If the transmission won’t go into gear at all, the clutch is severely warped or broken, STOP and do not drive the car or transmission damage will occur!

2)When launching, do not ride the clutch. Riding the clutch is when someone stays in the clutch ‘friction zone’ too long and overheats the unit. When a clutch is in the friction zone, it is using friction to operate and move the car forward. If you stay in the friction zone too long, the unit will build up enough heat to damage the assembly. This can quickly warp the pressure plate and cause clutch drag, which will then cause the transmission to feel notchy when shifting.

When you launch, just give the clutch smooth and quick engagement without sitting in the friction zone. You want to stay out of the friction zone to prevent overheating, but you do not want to dump and shock the clutch either as that will break other parts. Staying in between the two can be tricky, but if you find yourself riding the clutch, let off the gas immediately and stop. Let the assembly cool for at least 15 minutes, and then try again. Do not launch over and over again, as even smooth and proper launching repeatedly will overheat the unit if not enough time is taken to allow cooling.

3)Do not shock load the clutch. Shock loading is when the driver lets the clutch go too harshly, and quickly, and allows the clutch to engage so violently that it puts a shock through the system. Shock loading while launching, or shifting, can pop the rivets of a sprung hub clutch disk and cause the clutch to drag, which will kill the transmission. Shock loading can also break Tran’s gears, CV shafts, and other drive-train components. Shock loading doesn’t make you any faster and is very harmful to many parts.

4)Become familiar with the feel of your clutch and transmission. If at any time the clutch feels different, or the transmission doesn’t shift smoothly, something is wrong. STOP and do not continue driving the car. Check for clutch drag, check the hydraulic system, or worst case, pull the clutch back out and check it too. The feel of a clutch and transmission should never change, if it does, something is wrong. Becoming familiar and aware of the feel of your clutch and transmission will help prevent costly repairs in the future. Clutches are a device that uses friction to operate, so it will warp, and it will wear out in time. It’s when the driver can notice a change, and not ignore it, that saves your transmission! Having to rebuild your transmission every time the clutch wears out, or breaks, is something that should never have to be done. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us via phone 719-243-5305 or email sales@jackstransmissions.com

Clutch Drag is SERIOUS

Improper clutch adjustment, or dragging clutch assembly, will destroy your new unit. Damaged synchros due to improper clutch engagement will VOID YOUR WARRANTY!! If we receive the unit back damaged due to the clutch, we will know! 95% of all transmission failures are caused by clutch related issues. It is terribly important that the vehicle does not have clutch drag. To test is simple:
With the vehicle running, disengage the e-brake so it can roll.
Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
Turn off your launch limiter so the engine can hit the rev limiter. You MUST DO THIS!! If you do not, then there is no point in performing this test.
Shift the car into 1st gear.
Rev the engine up, while the clutch pedal is depressed all the way to the floor, until you feel the car start to move forward.
If the vehicle moves forward below the rev limiter, your clutch is dragging. Do not drive until the problem is fixed, or your synchros will be ruined! Unit will also be hard to shift, so DON’T DRIVE OR FORCE IT INTO GEAR! If everything is correct, the vehicle will not move. If the vehicle moves forward or is hard to shift, check each of the following:
Adjust the master cylinder under the dash. Video of how to do this HERE
Bleed your hydraulic clutch system and make sure you have a factory master cylinder from the dealer ONLY! Do not use generic auto parts store/eBay masters.
Check for improperly torqued block-to-bell-housing bolts, flywheel, or pressure plate.
There should be 2 dowel pins to properly center the transmission with the engine. If they are missing or damaged, the clutch will be out of alignment and will not work properly.
Check for missing block-to-bell-housing bolts. If any are missing the transmission can be pushed away from the engine which can crack the bell housing and make the clutch drag.
Make sure the throw out bearing fork is not hitting the bell-housing when the clutch pedal is depressed. Proper pivot ball shimming is HERE.
Check for incorrect flywheel step height. Most aftermarket flywheels are stepped too tight.
Check for warped flywheel, floater or pressure plate surfaces.
You may have a bad clutch pedal ‘z-bar’ (1G DSM ONLY).
You may have a broken or bent clutch disk due to improper installation.

Question: Why do you need to rev the engine so high to check for clutch drag?
Answer: Clutches can drag if they are subjected to excessive engine harmonics and crankshaft torsional whip. In order to increase the engine harmonics, to test for drag, the engine RPMs need to be up high. Most engines don’t develop severe harmonics through the clutch until 5k RPM or higher.


Note: Unit is shipped empty and must be filled with oil after it is installed in the vehicle. OEM fluid is recommended for most vehicles and driving conditions.

For our Mitsubishi transmission rebuilds we recommend factory Mitsubishi transmission gear oil. More info HERE, you can buy it HERE. If available, the EVO MR 6-Speed oil is the best oil to use as it has the perfect blend of friction modifiers to keep the transmission shifting smoothly and prevent gear failure. Gear oil choice is very important and varies based on preloads and synchro blocker ring design, therefore it is strongly recommended that you stick with Mitsubishi fluid for our transmissions. If you are unable to locate Mitsubishi MR 6-speed oil from the Mitsubishi dealer or us, you can use Redline MT90 (higher horsepower or race applications) gear oil. DO NOT use Synchromesh, BG Synchroshift I or II, or Royal Purple. These fluids will destroy synchros and gears and void your warranty!

[NOMIEZVR4]

What is Clutch Drag and Why Should I Care?

When a clutch drags, it is not letting go of the disk fully which overloads the synchros and burns up the friction surfaces quickly. Synchros work by speeding up or slowing down the input shaft and clutch disk by acting like a brake. If the clutch is dragging, the synchro friction surface is trying to speed up and slow down the engine’s mass, which is impossible. The synchro will burn up, fail and the transmission has just been ruined. We believe that the synchros in all manual transmissions are brilliantly engineered and should last the life of the vehicle. If your synchros went bad and the transmission needed to be rebuilt, ask yourself why. If we claim the synchros, including the originals, should never go bad then why were yours bad? A dragging clutch is a very serious issue that is not taken seriously by the installers of your transmission and/or clutch!! It is important to be 100% sure your clutch is not dragging or you will ruin the new synchros again in short time. Synchro damage due to a dragging clutch will not be covered under our warranty. If the transmission is ruined due to a dragging clutch it will have to be rebuilt all over again. Save time and money by not burning them up and making sure the clutch is not dragging. Symptoms of a dragging clutch:

Synchros start to grind requiring a rebuild.
If the original synchros were ruined from a dragging clutch, then your new transmission will also be ruined if the issue is not fixed!

Shifting feels notchy and there is resistance while trying to shift.
If the synchro is fighting you, it means that the assembly is having a hard time synchronizing the gear. DO NOT FORCE IT INTO GEAR! A dragging clutch will make the synchros work terribly hard so shifting will not be smooth.

EVO8-10 will not go into 1st or Reverse at idle with twin disk Exedy clutch.
This is a known issue with the Exedy twin disks and is in our FAQ HERE with a fix for the problem. Again, if the transmission is forced into gear the synchros will be damaged. This problem MUST be fixed before the vehicle is driven!

I have a new clutch, so I don’t need to check for a dragging issue.
Wrong! 90% of new aftermarket clutches drag right out of the box. Many need adjustments for more throw under the dash or the pivot ball shimmed. Videos of how to do this are also on the jackstransmissions.com website.

I have a 7.25” twin disk and they don’t drag
Wrong! Small twin disk clutches can also drag badly. Warped floaters can make them drag worse than any single disk clutch out there.

Can’t shift at high RPM.
Most clutches will drag at high RPM if there is a problem. If you miss a shift or have a hard time going into gear at high RPM, the clutch is dragging and needs to be fixed.

We cannot stress enough how important it is to be sure your clutch does not drag. Jacks Transmissions has the longest warranty in the business and we value our customers. We want our customers to have not only a long trouble free service life from their unit, but we want it to perform perfectly as well. A dragging clutch can kill your transmission within only a few shifts as the synchros are fragile. It doesn’t matter what they are made of or if they are double or triple synchro, they will be ruined if the clutch drags, period. Please feel free to email us at sales@jackstransmissions.com if you have any questions or concerns over your clutch. We want to help and would be more than happy to be sure everything is right so you get the best performance possible out of your new transmission! Please review the other sheet to check for a dragging clutch as checking for a dragging clutch is simple and easy to do.

[NOMIEZVR4]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

you put 10w30 in the trans? uuh.

Yep Mobil 1, ran it for 7 years of abuse in the last trans, and the previous owner ran it before me. Improved shifting a ton over the 75w-90 I put in there when I first bought the car. Never had a shifting issue since the switch, not even after it split. Getrag specified 10w-30, the Mitsu manual got it wrong, or so I was told way back when by others who looked into it (I never did, it just worked for me so I went with it). But a lot of Getrags specify the same on other platforms.

My half broken clutch is obviously an issue, possibly the whole issue from reading that great post, thanks Nomiez. Man I wish I had read that before I ever bolted up this reman transmission!! The pressure plate could very well be warped or bent too since it was the same one used before the bellhousing failure. I know it's not the pedal adjustment, I've been making those for many years and have verified for this specific problem.

For the difficult shift fork movement, I mean with the bellhousing removed and moving the shift forks by hand. Seems far too difficult compared to moving the previous transmission's gear sliders.

[NOMIEZVR4]

So...after adjusting other peoples clutches and pedals I decided to do mine today as its been on my to-do list for a while. I noticed something strange. Looking at the clutch fork, from the front of the car its facing 1:00...i looked at another VR4 i had at the shop and his fork was at 12:00...now you're probably thinking whats the big deal..well the issue is with the fork at 1:00 I can't adjust the clutch because the slave cylinder is completely pushed IN. BTW im making references to the video I posted above if anyone is confused. Although at the moment I don't have any issues, Im fearing that its just a matter of time before the clutch fails or something similar. Anyone have an idea why the fork is facing the way it is instead of otherwise? Could the fork have been installed backwards??

[familyMAN]

Is clutch fork centered in the hole in bellhousing? If so, it's perfect. If it's pushed to the drivers side of car.....My guesses...
1. Not seated on "ball" correctly
2. Someone put a few washers behind the ball.

[NOMIEZVR4]

No..clutch fork is NOT centered on bell housing. I dont recall putting any washers on it either.

You dont suppose I could pry the fork back onto the pivotball with a large prybar do you? Is this a common issue? I distinctly remember the second time around when installing my transmission that the slave cylinder was much harder to install because obviously the space between the fork where the cylinder sits was much tighter. It makes sense now because the very first time that I installed the transmission it wasn't so hard to put the slave cylinder in place.

[KeithMac]

Either the fork hasn't snapped into the ball properly or the ball has wound out on its threads!.

I would have thought the fork would pop on the the pivot ball when operating the clutch due to the pressure on the pivot?.

[NOMIEZVR4]

I managed to snap a picture of it last night...
http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/20140802_230013_zps48b6dce5.jpg (http://s314.photobucket.com/user/nomiezvr4/media/20140802_230013_zps48b6dce5.jpg.html)

I really doubt the fork popped out of the ball. I'm still baffled as to what it is...I had a VR4 at the shop last year on which I installed a clutch as well. His clutch must have lasted him 8-10k then it started slipping. When we pulled the trans off I was shocked to see that his BRAND new disc was completely worn down to the rivets...and he was only daily driving the car. I'm now 100% certain that his car must have had the same issue as mine...the only reason I haven't seen a failure yet is because I don't drive my car as much otherwise I would be in the same position.

[NOMIEZVR4]

Well here is another car that I'm working on...previously this car ate a new clutch up in 8k miles..prior to me installing the last clutch, it had gone thru 3 clutches in under 100k miles..last time around I installed a new ball, fork, new flywheel(IPS) and OEM TOB also I did not shim it . Recently I just installed a new SB 4 FE clutch in this car about 1k miles ago and this is how the Fork is sitting...NOT good..if it keeps up like this it will eat this clutch up as well...anyone have any insight to this? see attachment

Here is a tidbit of info I found on RRE's website...I think it can be applied to our cars as well.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/clutch/armcentered.jpg

The release bearing arm and the pivot ball will wear over time. Replacing both is one way to deal with the problem. Adding a washer or two under the arm is another way. DO NOT ADD A SHIM TO A NEW FORK AND BALL.
When the transmission is first installed in the car and just bolted down to the motor, this is the time to check the wear on the arm and ball. Checking it right that moment will save hours of hassle later! Look at where the arm protrudes out through the square boot on the front lower bell housing. With the arm pushed over towards the passenger side so that the release bearing is just touching the clutch, the arm should be either in the center of the square hole or towards the driver's side of center line.

If the arm is sitting off towards the passenger side, you need to pull the transmission back out and add a washer or two. This gets things back in line. If you don't, the hydraulics in trying to take up all the extra slack, will push the arm over and bottom out on the inner bell housing. If you are fighting clutch adjustment problems on an existing clutch install, get under the car and check this out. If you remove a crossmember to see it better, you can pull off the rubber boot and look in the bell housing with a flash light while an assistant pushes on the clutch pedal. You may see the arm hitting the inner bell housing.

If you are having problems with a clutch adjustment, don't be tempted to try to lengthen the clutch slave cylinder rod. It may work for a few symptoms (worn pedal assembly mostly) but it is not the right way to fix things. In order to take up additional free play, it puts constant pressure on the release bearing.

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

Makes sense ^

[NOMIEZVR4]

sorry for hijacking your thread...but i think its relevant..:)

[familyMAN]

Looks like it's not "seated" on the ball correctly.

[NOMIEZVR4]

Thanks for the input...i haven't separated the trans yet from the engine but ill be monitoring closely..

[NOMIEZVR4]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiXKfkCMj6A&list=UUCgjaJ2phFh6mJ1hTJDXxrg

[familyMAN]

Can't say for sure from vid, but doesn't look like the fork is seated onto the ball correctly.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiXKfkCMj6A&list=UUCgjaJ2phFh6mJ1hTJDXxrg

yeah that is not on the pivot ball. Once against the pivot ball you have to smack the fork over the ball, so its retaining clip gets seated past the ball. The fork shouldn't be able to fall out of the trans once its seated on the ball.

[NOMIEZVR4]

I hope you guys are right...that wo be the best solution. If that ends up being it..ill be very sursurprised how the fork popped out in the first place.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

I hope you guys are right...that wo be the best solution. If that ends up being it..ill be very sursurprised how the fork popped out in the first place.

I would replace the fork and ball if you bother to drop the trans.

[NOMIEZVR4]

Both were replaced less than 10k ago...ill make the final decision after separating the trans

[DK77]

So would the fork not being shimmed properly potentially cause the TOB/gear rattle that annoys me so much?

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

You shouldn't need to shim them unless something is worn out, but if they are not seated on the ball it would make some noise.

[DK77]

I'm fairly certain that it's seated on the ball properly. I'm thinking I'm probably going to order a new fork/ball for the new clutch install anyway.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

I'm fairly certain that it's seated on the ball properly. I'm thinking I'm probably going to order a new fork/ball for the new clutch install anyway.

For as much work as it is to drop one of these trans, I would definitely do that if you suspect anything. Shimming sounds great if you like dropping the trans for fun.

[DK77]

Already ordered a new fork/ball from Ninja

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiXKfkCMj6A&list=UUCgjaJ2phFh6mJ1hTJDXxrg

That's looks to be a lot of play between that ball and fork, mine has no play. Judging by the absolute lack of grease where there should be grease, I would say the clip on the backside of the clutch fork has worn out. I think it's popped out and can't hold itself in maybe? Mine does not move up and down so easily when it's popped on the ball. That ball and fork recess should be packed with wheel bearing grease or equivalent. Check the manual and start greasing what it says to grease. Excellent video btw.


So would the fork not being shimmed properly potentially cause the TOB/gear rattle that annoys me so much?

You sure it's not the clutch rivets? I haven't had a TOB rattle ever, even though I assume its TOB everytime, it's always the clutch rivets. When exactly does it do it?

[DK77]

What I'm talking about is when you let off the clutch pedal my car rattles from the trans/clutch area. If I press the pedal far enough for the clutch to start disengaging the rattle goes away. I always assumed TOB until I replaced it with a new OEM one and had the same issue. I've now had this issue with 3 different clutch set ups; 3 different transmissions; 3 different TOBs; and at least 2 clutch forks. It drives me nuts. I've heard that it's a rattle internally in the transmission having to do with bearing clearances or backlash or something like that. I don't know how to fix it but it's kind of embarrassing lol.

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

What I'm talking about is when you let off the clutch pedal my car rattles from the trans/clutch area. If I press the pedal far enough for the clutch to start disengaging the rattle goes away. I always assumed TOB until I replaced it with a new OEM one and had the same issue. I've now had this issue with 3 different clutch set ups; 3 different transmissions; 3 different TOBs; and at least 2 clutch forks. It drives me nuts. I've heard that it's a rattle internally in the transmission having to do with bearing clearances or backlash or something like that. I don't know how to fix it but it's kind of embarrassing lol.

That's the exact scenario I had with the stock clutch, XTD 3, and Spec 4+ (twice). All were clutch rivets loose. I would sit at stoplights with the clutch pedal pushed in so it wouldn't embarrass me. I could also make it not rattle if I let the clutch pedal out VERY slowly. If something inside the trans was rattling that often and loud enough for you to hear in the cabin, you would have all kinds of metal in your trans oil. Not saying it couldn't be something else, but that's all it ever has been for me. Usually make it a few thousand miles on a new clutch before it starts happening. I think it's the launches that causes it to loosen up.

[DK77]

Interesting... This has happened with a SPEC stage 2 disc, an OEM disc, and right now an ACT 6 puck unsprung. This clutch did it right away with no abuse on it at all. I've only launched the car once but it was rattling even before that. So is that something I could have fixed when I put the new clutch in? Like have a machine shop put in beefier rivets?

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

Interesting... This has happened with a SPEC stage 2 disc, an OEM disc, and right now an ACT 6 puck unsprung. This clutch did it right away with no abuse on it at all. I've only launched the car once but it was rattling even before that. So is that something I could have fixed when I put the new clutch in? Like have a machine shop put in beefier rivets?

If that's the issue, then yes. Not sure a machine shop will do it, but I have local clutch/brake rebuilding/manufacturing company that will let you ship in your clutch. They're making my custom clutch and fixing my Spec 4+ again right now. I haven't had it happen immediately after a new clutch install with any of the clutches, just after a bunch of launches and a few thousand miles, so your issue could be different entirely. Sounds like you've eliminated everything to do with the transmission with all the parts you've been through.

[NOMIEZVR4]

problem found. see attachment

[anyonebutme]

that'll do it, lol

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

It dun broke!

[DK77]

After inspecting the new fork and ball that arrived in the mail, I'm thinking that my rattle issue is due to the retainer clip being bent/worn. It was not nearly as hard to put the old fork on the ball as it is with the new one.

[NOMIEZVR4]

so...whats wrong with this picture...oem fork and ball

EDIT: Its a video

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/th_WP_20140902_002_zps1e54d2ec.mp4 (http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/WP_20140902_002_zps1e54d2ec.mp4)

[NOMIEZVR4]

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/WP_20140902_003_zpsd3e538a2.jpg (http://s314.photobucket.com/user/nomiezvr4/media/WP_20140902_003_zpsd3e538a2.jpg.html)

[familyMAN]

Is that with trans bolted to engine?

[NOMIEZVR4]

Yes, that is with motor and trans bolted together.

More pictures...just disassembled the whole thing..

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/WP_20140902_012_zpsc9f2834b.jpg (http://s314.photobucket.com/user/nomiezvr4/media/WP_20140902_012_zpsc9f2834b.jpg.html)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/WP_20140902_007_zps160c2460.jpg (http://s314.photobucket.com/user/nomiezvr4/media/WP_20140902_007_zps160c2460.jpg.html)


http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/WP_20140902_009_zps49bb1f6d.jpg (http://s314.photobucket.com/user/nomiezvr4/media/WP_20140902_009_zps49bb1f6d.jpg.html)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/WP_20140902_016_zps4305e4ba.jpg (http://s314.photobucket.com/user/nomiezvr4/media/WP_20140902_016_zps4305e4ba.jpg.html)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/WP_20140902_017_zps32a6156e.jpg (http://s314.photobucket.com/user/nomiezvr4/media/WP_20140902_017_zps32a6156e.jpg.html)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/WP_20140902_019_zpsfec957f3.jpg (http://s314.photobucket.com/user/nomiezvr4/media/WP_20140902_019_zpsfec957f3.jpg.html)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/WP_20140902_021_zps8e3e4670.jpg (http://s314.photobucket.com/user/nomiezvr4/media/WP_20140902_021_zps8e3e4670.jpg.html)

[NOMIEZVR4]

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/WP_20140902_022_zps3590c3f2.jpg (http://s314.photobucket.com/user/nomiezvr4/media/WP_20140902_022_zps3590c3f2.jpg.html)

WIth no disc in the middle...
http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/WP_20140902_026_zps75bfd697.jpg (http://s314.photobucket.com/user/nomiezvr4/media/WP_20140902_026_zps75bfd697.jpg.html)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/WP_20140902_027_zps14aab113.jpg (http://s314.photobucket.com/user/nomiezvr4/media/WP_20140902_027_zps14aab113.jpg.html)

Its a stock trans, IPS FLywheel, SB stage 4 clutch...OEM TOB, OEM Fork and Ball...any ideas?

[DK77]

I don't see what's wrong with it?

[NOMIEZVR4]

The fork is still too far over to the right...

or am I being paranoid?

[kywhitelightning]

Looks good to me. That position will probably give maximum throw of the slave cylinder. It has plenty of room for the fork to continue to move toward the engine as the clutch disc wears. The disc seems to have quite a bit of material left. I don't see anything wrong. The play in the video will be gone once the slave is installed. Paranoid, just paranoid.

Jeff

[CoopKill]

Have you checked that the step height is within specs?

[NOMIEZVR4]

Have you checked that the step height is within specs?

the flywheel is a new unit from ips but I guess checking the step height can't hurt.

Jeff I'll keep you posted.

[NOMIEZVR4]

Can some of you guys post the pictures of your clutch forks? I'd love to take a peek...that would really help me.

[CoopKill]

I am guessing you needs pics installed, yes? If so I am no help. If you need something where the trans is out let me know. Mine is sitting on the floor.

[DK77]

I will get some pics if I end up having to replace my clutch

[NOMIEZVR4]

Yeah installed...i wanna see how your guys' forks are facing..

[Maddog]

Hey Nomiezvr4, from the video of Davids trans it looks like the fork isn't seated all the way on the ball. Pause your video at 24 seconds and it looks like two metal ridges that hold the fork on the ball are above the centerline of the ball. They should be under the centerline. You need to take the trans off and investigate. The metal retainer could be bent or fine. Make sure its seated properly before bolting the trans back up. Put some grease in there too.

[NOMIEZVR4]

I'll take a look and report back...thanks!

any pictures would still be very helpful !

[CoopKill]

I'll grab one seated on the ball when home in a couple hours.

[NOMIEZVR4]

Well after looking at it again, I'm certain the ball was on the fork. Matter of fact I took a picture too but didn't post it.. I took the ball off and put it into the fork and this is how it was sitting when installed too...

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/WP_20140902_005_zps34744532.jpg (http://s314.photobucket.com/user/nomiezvr4/media/WP_20140902_005_zps34744532.jpg.html)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/20140903_143603_zps9d60d66a.jpg (http://s314.photobucket.com/user/nomiezvr4/media/20140903_143603_zps9d60d66a.jpg.html)

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll440/nomiezvr4/20140903_143610_zps453b43da.jpg (http://s314.photobucket.com/user/nomiezvr4/media/20140903_143610_zps453b43da.jpg.html)

[CoopKill]

Sorry dude! I totally spaced getting a pic for you... :(

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

I think you jinxed me. :mad:

Got my bellhousing reassembled, got the clutch on the motor, go to put the clutch fork on and there's all sorts of play at the ball. So I'm looking at it, trying to tweak it here and there, and then I notice the clip has a small piece missing which is causing all the play. Never had a problem with a clutch fork in my life. Jinxed. :p

Where did you get your fork/ball?

As for your issue, did you make any headway?

[DK77]

I got my fork/ball from Ninja

[NOMIEZVR4]

I think you jinxed me. :mad:

Got my bellhousing reassembled, got the clutch on the motor, go to put the clutch fork on and there's all sorts of play at the ball. So I'm looking at it, trying to tweak it here and there, and then I notice the clip has a small piece missing which is causing all the play. Never had a problem with a clutch fork in my life. Jinxed. :p

Where did you get your fork/ball?

As for your issue, did you make any headway?

Can you post a picture of how your fork is facing? I have not made any progress as I have been out of town. Managed to get my hands on a stock flywheel though. I plan to check the step heights of both the IPS and stocker.

Can you post a picture of your missing clip? Also with the new fork ball, the play is all gone.

FOrk and ball are from Mitsu.

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

Can you post a picture of how your fork is facing? I have not made any progress as I have been out of town. Managed to get my hands on a stock flywheel though. I plan to check the step heights of both the IPS and stocker.

Can you post a picture of your missing clip? Also with the new fork ball, the play is all gone.

FOrk and ball are from Mitsu.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e200/twizted_3kgt/th_20140908_213728_zpsuesupjkb.jpg (http://s39.photobucket.com/user/twizted_3kgt/media/20140908_213728_zpsuesupjkb.jpg.html)
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e200/twizted_3kgt/th_20140908_213658_zpsbe0xaxan.jpg (http://s39.photobucket.com/user/twizted_3kgt/media/20140908_213658_zpsbe0xaxan.jpg.html)

Got the new ones coming from Cherry Hill already. I can post a pic of the way it sits when mounted once I get it installed.

[NOMIEZVR4]

hah...it broke in the same manner as the one I posted..

[TwIzTeD_3kGt]

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e200/twizted_3kgt/20140910_231735_zpsstmwb4dt.jpg (http://s39.photobucket.com/user/twizted_3kgt/media/20140910_231735_zpsstmwb4dt.jpg.html)
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e200/twizted_3kgt/20140910_231556_zpsr4w0ktnr.jpg (http://s39.photobucket.com/user/twizted_3kgt/media/20140910_231556_zpsr4w0ktnr.jpg.html)

12:00.

I measured the flywheel to end of pressure plate like you did and came up with 2-5/8", roughly 1/4" longer than it looks like you have. But from the looks of it, your pressure plate fingers are a lot closer to the edge of the pressure plate, while mine are recessed further away from the edge of the pressure plate. My Spec 4+ it's similar to yours. Looks like yours has increased clamp pressure.