the wiring wonders of my 92 SVX

[sketch]

backstory: I was leaving work last monday evening, I start my car only to have it immediately die when I put it in gear. I tried another start, it cranked but didn't catch. Oy vey, fuel problems. After getting the car towed home and some testing I ended up diagnosing just a faulty fuel pump relay (clickclickclickclickclickclickclick) in the dashboard and was able to source a replacement from the 17th closest autoparts store, and the car now runs fine.

However, on my way through the innards of my dashboard to get to the relay, I discovered a not-so pretty sight.

the brains for my remote start/locks/alarm. note in the background the red switch with a broken switch lever and the black push button button.
http://i.imgur.com/flxSTZ8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/n7KMDBk.jpg

two relays...i dont even know what's going on with this. they were covered in about 3 pounds of electrical tape
http://i.imgur.com/kcXmhxL.jpg

what what in in the the fuck fuck
http://i.imgur.com/nYNyusv.jpg

another brains box to god knows what, a fuse got in the way
http://i.imgur.com/RtlRpNP.jpg

maybe this is why my remote start doesn't exactly work properly. also, the car is probably confused between two alarms - built in and aftermarket. though i have no idea what's disabled and what isnt; it's got to be some bastardized version of both. the stock security light blinks but the system is dead so far as i can tell; the aftermarket seems to be in tune with the second alarm light & car (un)lock & alarm voice ("stand back! security system!")


As the weather is actually getting nicer, I'd like to figure out what the fuck is going on down there and return it to a clean stock setup, and then maybe take a look at properly wiring in the remote start.

If anyone has any useful or helpful tips or suggestion or direction, I'd be much obliged. I'm no stranger to (re)wiring, but this is going to be a PITA.

[95gto]

Here is what I can tell from the pictures:

You have an alarm/remote start system (part number unknown) along with an add on 516U vocalarm system. The black push button is your valet switch for the alarm system. The two relays appear to be door lock relays wired up for reverse polarity operation. And the red toggle switch appears to be tied into the neutral safety switch wire of the system. If the switch is off the system would not remoote start.

As for fixing the mess, I would exercise the demon and start over. It does not look like the initial installer did a good pre-wire which resulted in a chaotic install. Additionally the data I found for your car specifies negative trigger door locks whcih makes me think your power door locks are either an aftermarket add on or the initial installer was doing it wrong.

If you are not versed in security system installations I would suggest seeking professional assistance.

[sketch]

Here is what I can tell from the pictures:

You have an alarm/remote start system (part number unknown) along with an add on 516U vocalarm system. The black push button is your valet switch for the alarm system. The two relays appear to be door lock relays wired up for reverse polarity operation. And the red toggle switch appears to be tied into the neutral safety switch wire of the system. If the switch is off the system would not remoote start.

As for fixing the mess, I would exercise the demon and start over. It does not look like the initial installer did a good pre-wire which resulted in a chaotic install. Additionally the data I found for your car specifies negative trigger door locks whcih makes me think your power door locks are either an aftermarket add on or the initial installer was doing it wrong.

If you are not versed in security system installations I would suggest seeking professional assistance.

Power door locks as an aftermarket item makes a helluva lot of sense - there are no buttons in the car for locking or unlocking, my only non-manual mechanism for (un)locking is via remote; the driver's side door lock doesn't always raise up all the way/sometimes slides down with the force of closing the door. I should take off one of the door panels and get a peek in to see what's going on in there and see what looks out of place.

so far, the to do list:
-take a look at the door locks
-unwire this mess, keeping track of all wires
-clean up and restore to stock condition
-sort through remote start & alarm system and attempt to clean up wiring harnesses, if at all possible.

[95gto]

Power door locks as an aftermarket item makes a helluva lot of sense - there are no buttons in the car for locking or unlocking, my only non-manual mechanism for (un)locking is via remote; the driver's side door lock doesn't always raise up all the way/sometimes slides down with the force of closing the door. I should take off one of the door panels and get a peek in to see what's going on in there and see what looks out of place.

so far, the to do list:
-take a look at the door locks
-unwire this mess, keeping track of all wires
-clean up and restore to stock condition
-sort through remote start & alarm system and attempt to clean up wiring harnesses, if at all possible.

If you don't have any buttons to operate the locks then it makes sense that you have those two relays. When you add aftermarket door lock actuators you have to use reverse polarity door lock wiring. If you pull the door panels you should easily see the add-on actuators. And if the driver's side is not working right there is a good chance something needs tightened and/or adjusted.

If you plan on removing everything and then re-installing it in a more tidy manner there are a couple things to consider. Prior to uninstalling the system you need to find installation manuals for all your components (the alarm and the 516u). You need to know what everything is prior to undoing any connections. Otherwise you may be up a creek in terms of what wire is what. Also if when uninstalling the system you may want to cut each alarm wire near the factory wire it taps into. This leaves a bread crumb trail for re-installation. The only factory wire that should be cut rather than just tapped will be the starter wire. It will require you reconnect it for normal vehicle operation prior to re-installing the system.