*** New Product Release Sale! STM ABS Delete Kits $225 Shipped ***

[Austin@STM]

I am happy to announce the release of a new product. As time goes on it is harder and harder to find good brake lines from the non-abs cars, and Mitsubishi no longer makes all the parts. Now that doesnt matter, its easy to clean up the engine bay and lose the weight of the ABS system since we are now offering a complete ABS delete kit that replaces it all.

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/b/stm_3000gt_abs_delete_kit2.jpg

The best part is, that its not hard to install even with the engine in the car! Because the lines are flexible you dont have to worry about hurting the hard lines trying to fit them around the engine and everything else in the way. This is no longer a project you have to wait on until you pull the motor or turbo/manifold to do. It can be done easily in less than a day.

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/b/stm_3000gt_abs_delete_kit.jpg

-New OEM Mitsubishi Non-ABS Proportioning valve
-New stainless steel lines from master to proportioning valve
-New stainless steel lines from proportioning valve all the way to the front calipers
-All necessary fitting to run lines from calipers/master cylinder/proportioning valve

All lines are plastic coated so they will not scratch or rub through anything. All lines are long enough to fit a few different ways dependin on ow your car is set up and how you want to run the lines.

This setup has been tested on my Stealth, i have over 3000 trouble free miles on it now on stock TT brakes, and love it.

This kit will be up for sale at an introductory price of $225 shipped (inside US, NY residents add 8% for tax.)

-Paypal is Sales@StreetTunedMotorsports.com

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/b/stm_3000gt_abs_delete_kit3.jpg
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/b/stm_3000gt_abs_delete_kit6.jpg
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/b/stm_3000gt_abs_delete_kit7.jpg

I have one full kit here ready to go, all others will ship out early next week as more kits arrive.

PM me if you are interested or have any questions.
-Austin@STM

[3000GT MR]

Thats a nice kit! I would have done this instead of bending my own lines ect. ect. Great idea guys!

[B-Man]

I wasn't expecting it to replace the front rubber lines. I already have SS brake lines. I wonder if I can sell those w/o the rears and recoup some of the cost for these.

[i3igpete]

Wow! Awesome!

[DocWalt]

Awesome! You guys are rocking and rolling on the new parts!

[Atrosity]

WoW STM FTMFW!

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

is this kit street legal? I thought there was a limit to the maximum length of flexible line in the car.

[Austin@STM]

is this kit street legal? I thought there was a limit to the maximum length of flexible line in the car.

Its not a D.O.T. approved kit like most aftermarket kits if thats what you mean, but i have the same setup just with a 1g dsm master and prop valve, same stainless lines though. The pedal is still very solid, and in 3000 miles hasnt changed one bit.

I pulled my complete setup out to test fit this new one and all my lines still looked brand new. I am not aware of any issues with running flexible lines, and dont think think there are any because this is what Goodridge designed the lines for.

-Austin@STM

[lat42MS]

Alright STM! The ABS delete is one of my favorite mods... but actually doing it is a PITA. nice to know there's a quality kit in case I ever have to do it again.

[Austin@STM]

11secondFWD has requested this for his 1g DSM so we will be offering these kits for all you DSM'ers as well.

[11secondFWD]

I can't wait. I just took out my abs on my dsm. I have read before that you shouldn't have braided lines very long because the tubing can expand and make the pedal less than ideal. I also heard that crimped fittings are better than compression fittings for hydraulics. But you said no problems in your stealth and my dsm is my track and occasional weekend car, I have no worries about it running great. Im glad it replaces everything to the caliper. I was always afraid to do this in case of brake failure from my error when going 120mph. But this kit seems great, easy to install, and replace all lines without tons of spots that can leak. Also, at least on the 3s the abs is in the fender area, on the dsm its right in the engine bay and gets in the way, is ugly/cluttered, and made me have to route my FMIC pipes around it, so I am real glad you made/are making a kit.

[Austin@STM]

I measured up all the lines and fittings, will get pricing together this morning for you.

I have had no issues with a soft pedal yet. I have hammered the brakes a few times and it feels solid.

They are all flare/taper fittings except the one banjo bolt on the 3s kit, so there is no need to apply any sealant.

-Austin@STM

[a2j]

is there a diagram/pic of this setup? I'm not sure what is need to be deleted and what needs to stay. I can find only abs diagram.

[Austin@STM]

You remove everything but the rear lines, they are the same for abs and non abs cars, and go into the same spot on the proportioning valve.
This replaces the lines to the front two wheels, and the lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve.

Basically every line coming out of the ABS pump is replaced, as well as the proportioning valve on the firewall. So you save the weight and space of the ABS setup, which most poeple usually have unplugged already.

[11secondFWD]

Cool man. I took out everything today. So this will go from prop valve all the way to caliper for the dsm too right. And the banjo isn't used on the dsm's master cylinder, which I know you seen, but I was just pointing out that is the only difference I seen (other than a dif prop valve and line lengths).

[Austin@STM]

Ya i am running the the 1g prop valve and master cylinder in my car because thats what i had at the time. So my kit is basically identical to what you will get, the lines are just different.

The 2g DSM kits have 2 banjo bolts on the calipers but are pretty much the same as well.

[11secondFWD]

Cool man, just let me know when you get it ready to ship/be sold, so I can paypal here real soon to the email you listed above.

[What_Turbo_Lag?]

wow that kit is nice! also interested in when they will be ready so I can order

[green-lantern]

Very nice! I'm a little surprised nobody has done it yet.

[Austin@STM]

wow that kit is nice! also interested in when they will be ready so I can order

Which kit are you referring to?

All 3 kits are ready now 3S, 1g, and 2g DSM.

[stealthee]

I'm assuming you guys make the lines yourself? If so what would be the chances I could get a flexible stainless line that replaces the soft rubber clutch line, but goes directly to the slave? This would be for a NA so I dont know if fittings would be the same size as a TT. On the NA in stock form the soft line hooks to a hard line which goes to a clutch damper, then back over to the slave. I deleted the damper years ago and just ran a short hardline from my soft line to the slave. That sometimes is a pain though.

If its doable let me know and let me know how much it would cost.

[11secondFWD]

Austin, I am going to send paypal as soon as I deposit money on monday morning. So the 1g dsm is ready? Should I just paypal 225 dollars to the email? Or use the website (I dont see it under dsm yet)? Or should I just send paypal and PM you that I sent the money?

[Austin@STM]

I am not sure if they are the same, i will have to do some research on that, but i believe they are the same.

That is actually next on my list ofthings to do is a 1 piece clutch line from master to slave, and also just 1 peice to replace everything after the first hardline.

[Austin@STM]

Austin, I am going to send paypal as soon as I deposit money on monday morning. So the 1g dsm is ready? Should I just paypal 225 dollars to the email? Or use the website (I dont see it under dsm yet)? Or should I just send paypal and PM you that I sent the money?

I have the 1g kit all designed and ordered, i wont know the price until monday though when we are billed everything. It also looks like you lucked out because we may have gotten the last Non-ABS prop valev for a 1g

[stealthee]

Sweet. I'll keep my eyes peeled. That was something I had looked into having made years ago, but never pursued it.

I know its not of much help, but someone had once told me they replaced that line and went right to the slave with a brake line they found to work, but never told me what the brake line was off of. The said they thought it was a Nissan or something. May be something to look into.

[11secondFWD]

Wow, thats sweet, I am 100% sure buying it. Send me a PM when you want me to paypal!

[bluemax_1]

Nice!


Max

[HLxDrummer]

Your killing me! I really want to delete my ABS but I just put on new SS lines a few months ago. I'm not too keen on the idea of having all that flexible line but it should would be easy to install..

[11secondFWD]

Paypal sent!

[STLVR4]

Wow nice kit! Will be jumping on this soon

[SilverJester]

How much weight does this actually save?

[terrets]

STFU! STM You guys ROCK!....Good price also....Ill be sure to get this kit this winter or at least the proportioning valve depending if I'm to lazy to bend my own :D.

Is there anyway to get sponsored by you guys.....even though your all the way in NY. :D

[Austin@STM]

How much weight does this actually save?

I believe it saves about 20 pounds, i never wrote down how much my pump weighed when i got rid of it during the winter. However according to most peoples weight loss threads they save right around 20 pounds with it.
It also cleans up the mess of lines running throught the engine bay, and opens up that corner nicely.

-Austin@STM

[Austin@STM]

11secondFWD your lines are in and the prop valve will be here tomorrow.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs807.snc4/68695_1634658034616_1481643354_31652291_5646441_n. jpg

-Austin@STM

[11secondFWD]

Sweet man, they look good. Thanks for continued updates, I appreciate the good work!

[SilverJester]

I believe it saves about 20 pounds, i never wrote down how much my pump weighed when i got rid of it during the winter. However according to most peoples weight loss threads they save right around 20 pounds with it.
It also cleans up the mess of lines running throught the engine bay, and opens up that corner nicely.

-Austin@STM

20ls?! Wow I wasn't expecting anywhere near that. I'll definitely be getting one of these one some funds come in (kinda broke right now from head gasket replacement).

[Austin@STM]

Sounds good man, we got 4 more kits coming in for stock so it will be here when you are ready ;)

11secondFWD yours is on the way!

-Austin@STM

[Spyder]

Damn it I need more money so I can buy this. I completely hate how the ABS lines look on the engine bay plus damn ABS kicks in in the worst of times.

[terrets]

Pull the fuse man.

[Keyan]

im seriously considering buying this. i've had no issues with my abs but i sure as hell want to do a disappearing act with my fuse box :P

[11secondFWD]

Thanks for quick service, Austin. STM, you guys will be getting a lot more business from me in the future, thanks! Is there a tracking number by any chance?

[Austin@STM]

Thanks for quick service, Austin. STM, you guys will be getting a lot more business from me in the future, thanks! Is there a tracking number by any chance?

PM Sent.

I loosely assembled the kit and labeled all the ends so you know where they go, its pretty simple really, you just gotta figure out where you want the lines to go, there a little extra length in them so you can get it around everything easily. Let me know how it goes.

-Austin@STM

[11secondFWD]

K man thanks. I think it will be easy too, just wanted to double check.

[Austin@STM]

K man thanks. I think it will be easy too, just wanted to double check.

Your other 2 fittings are on the way, you should have them tomorrow, sorry for the mix up.

-Austin@STM

[11secondFWD]

Cool thanks!

[Austin@STM]

Post up some pics if you get a chance of it all assembled.

I'll also be working on your fuel setup later today.

[11secondFWD]

Well, the abs delete went very easily. Everything fit great and was a breeze to install. I bled the brakes and all feels great.

As far as pics go, I will get some but I am real busy and don't have much time to mess with the car but I will have them by next weekend hopefully (maybe sooner).

I have been thinking about the fuel setup. And the one gallon will fit, the 2 will also but its pretty tight. Those 2 fit but I just dont know where I am going to mount the pump. I also think I might want to drive it around a tiny bit or drive to the track sometime. So I might be doing a 5 gallon in the rear of the car. So I might be getting some more line than I thought. The 5 gal is still only 94 bucks vs the 1 gal which is 75 and the 2 gal which is sfi certified and is 269. So by saving 169 bucks on the 5 vs the 2 gal, I could pay for most of lines.

I want this car as my drag car but from my previous stripped car I think I might keep heat, working side windows (manual roll up are in my car), window wipers, and a fuel cell big enough to actually drive more than around the block lol.

[B-Man]

Were you able to install these with the engine in the car? I know with the hard lines people were saying you almost need to have the engine out.

[Austin@STM]

Were you able to install these with the engine in the car? I know with the hard lines people were saying you almost need to have the engine out.

Yes it can be easily installed with the engine in the car. Thats how i did mine, it is easy to pull the hard lines because you dont have to keep them straight (or in one piece ;) ) and the new lines being flexible can go right around everything under the hood for easy installation.

-Austin@STM

[11secondFWD]

Oh yea, I did it with the engine in the car and with the stock intake manifold and everything in. I had the battery out and I do not have a/c in the car. The no a/c made it purely simple. If a/c was there, it would have been easy too, but a little tighter fit with my arm. And by the way that is with a dsm where the a/c is on the rear of the engine and close to firewall. The 3000gt a/c is in the front so disregard the a/c part.

[Mikes2nd]

I believe it saves about 20 pounds, i never wrote down how much my pump weighed when i got rid of it during the winter. However according to most peoples weight loss threads they save right around 20 pounds with it.
It also cleans up the mess of lines running throught the engine bay, and opens up that corner nicely.

-Austin@STM

Did any of your guys remove your "ABS" rings from your axles? They are probably only 1 lb a piece but they are unsprung weight... or maybe we need them as spacers?

hmm

My only issue is this might not be the best thing for a road courser. You are bound to get some more cushyness(every so slight though). I am wondering if a hard kit can be made...
well... then again its a flexible line for a great majority anyways, another foot or 2 should not matter

[11secondFWD]

(Austin) Hey, here are pics of my STM ABS delete kit. I tried to get good pics and I might not have routed it too clean. But it was easy and it worked out great.

Also, some other pics of my car will be in there to.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0001.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0002.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0003.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0004.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0005.jpg

[11secondFWD]

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0007.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0008.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0009.jpg

The engine bay is a lot more clear without abs.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0011.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/344945191941_0_0.jpg

[11secondFWD]

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0013_1.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0016.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0017_1.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0018_1.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0019.jpg

[11secondFWD]

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0020.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0021_1.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0024_1.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0027_1.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0029_1.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0031_1.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0035_1.jpg

[Austin@STM]

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/94atxvr2/SANY0027_1.jpg

Just so you know both lines can point backwards and run together down under the brake booster together. It will only clean it up a little, if its already full and blead then its no big deal.

[11secondFWD]

Yea I had then both going back but the line felt more comfortable like that. By comfortable I mean its less stressed in a tight bend. This way it had the easiest bends and fit nice. It could "look" better but its all bled, full and works great. I am not big on looks anyway. lol

[Atrosity]

Sorry to ask this question in a for sale thread but in roadcourse racing and time attack, is it better to have your ABS or delete it?

[mb7050]

I know from personal experience that ABS in our cars sucks .
Anyone done this to 2Gen 3s yet I would love to see some photos and some input how hard is it to install.

Btw. I just finished my STM oil cooler install they have very nice products !!!!

[FeaRpb]

Just wondering, tho this may be covered and I am at work and can't really read through all of the posts, but what is the weight savings from this and also how does driving with abs compare to deleting the abs?

[Austin@STM]

Just wondering, tho this may be covered and I am at work and can't really read through all of the posts, but what is the weight savings from this and also how does driving with abs compare to deleting the abs?

Saves about 20+ pounds, if you remove everything i believe. As far as drivability, its more personal preference i guess, but i love the way it feels with no abs. I get on the brakes pretty hard doing 130 at the end of the track, and it slows it right down very nicely, it has also never locked up only the fronts or rears, it brakes very evenly.

Mb7050 - It is fairly easy to install, puling the hard lines is the only hard part, if you want to save them at all. If not that part is very easy as well, as you can just cut them into sections and pull them out piece by piece so you dont scratch anything. Going back in just mount the prop valve first (at least thats how i started) and then find the best way to run the lines around your particular setup.

Also when taking the old lines out, if any of them give you an issue, you can just cut them close to the fitting, and then put a socket on them so you dont round them over. Just dont cut the lines going to the rears, those get re-used.

[familyMAN]

Just wondering, tho this may be covered and I am at work and can't really read through all of the posts, but what is the weight savings from this and also how does driving with abs compare to deleting the abs?

approx 20lbs in weight savings.

If you don't go around stomping on the brakes and cycling the ABS then it will feel the same with possibly slightly better/firmer pedal feel because of the deleted connections and stainless lines up front. Obviously, if you are aggressive enough to lock up your brakes, they will, because you no longer have ANTI LOCK BRAKES.

[Sean3S]

Wow, definitely going to get this in the near future, great work.

Edit: Is there any possible way you could make a shorter set for the fronts for those of us with braided lines? Maybe a connection up to the stock little hardline on the strut?

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Wow, definitely going to get this in the near future, great work.

Edit: Is there any possible way you could make a shorter set for the fronts for those of us with braided lines? Maybe a connection up to the stock little hardline on the strut?

I'd also be interested in this question.

[Austin@STM]

If you already have braided lines up front, this will replace that entire line and fittings, and you can then sell them to make some money, or use them on another car. Once my car goes away for winter, I will make lines to replace the rear soft lines to, so that way if you have lines you can sell the full set.

The kit wil be the same price even if it was shorter lines, so I just went the full length.

[11secondFWD]

Just a thought. Do they still sell the rear stock brake lines for the dsms? Because mine are pretty rusty and have build up. I was thinking for the future and didn't know of an options for the rear lines. Either a kit or if they make the rear factory ones.

[Sean3S]

If you already have braided lines up front, this will replace that entire line and fittings, and you can then sell them to make some money, or use them on another car. Once my car goes away for winter, I will make lines to replace the rear soft lines to, so that way if you have lines you can sell the full set.

The kit wil be the same price even if it was shorter lines, so I just went the full length.

Alright, couldn't hurt to ask, wasn't really about the price. That and I just bought a set of Goodridge lines like a day before I found this thread :(

[Austin@STM]

Alright, couldn't hurt to ask, wasn't really about the price. That and I just bought a set of Goodridge lines like a day before I found this thread :(

I can understand that, but I like simple, which in this caes means as few connections to leak as possible.

Like I said soon I will make the replacements for the rear, and put them on the website for people who have lines already, that wway they can re sell all 4 as a kit. Or if they don't have them, upgrade all 4 corners at the same time.

[DrkZide]

I just saw this thread. I tried searching through it but I can't find anything concerning whether this will be cross compatible with the NA chassis. If not do you have anything that would work?

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

you'll probably need different adapters on the calipers.

[Austin@STM]

I just saw this thread. I tried searching through it but I can't find anything concerning whether this will be cross compatible with the NA chassis. If not do you have anything that would work?

As far as i can tell this will work on all models, every Mitsu caliper i have seen here uses that same thread in the caliper, and the OEM prop valve for non-ABS is the same as the NA's use.

If you are interested in it, I will give you a discount on it, and you can be the first NA that i know of to try the kit, and let me know if it needs any changes, but im sure it will work just how it is.

-Austin@STM

[DrkZide]

As far as i can tell this will work on all models, every Mitsu caliper i have seen here uses that same thread in the caliper, and the OEM prop valve for non-ABS is the same as the NA's use.

If you are interested in it, I will give you a discount on it, and you can be the first NA that i know of to try the kit, and let me know if it needs any changes, but im sure it will work just how it is.

-Austin@STM

Oh that's cool! I'd be down for some R&D, might have to wait until I get paid in a couple weeks. Christmas kicked my bank account's ass.

[Austin@STM]

Let me know, i'd be interested to know for sure if it works, or what needs to be changed.

-Austin@STM

[MrSinister]

Im interested in this and i dont even need it! changing my flexible clutch line and noticed how ugly all those hard lines are...

[Austin@STM]

Im interested in this and i dont even need it! changing my flexible clutch line and noticed how ugly all those hard lines are...

It sure does make things look a lot better under the hood.

[IPD]

how the hell did i miss this gem? too bad it wasn't available back in august/september.

the stock hard-lines in our cars are gigantic POS's. i never even got to put the stainless lines on the rear of my car because they wanted to round off. at least now there's an option to hack the shit off there and replace it all.

[jba3]

Is it possible to get the kit without the prop valve? I already have an OEM delete kit, but I think I'd like this one better.

[Austin@STM]

ya that can be done, i will figure out a price and get back to you.

[92pearltt]

Is it possible to get the kit without the prop valve? I already have an OEM delete kit, but I think I'd like this one better.

Also interested in this.

[Austin@STM]

PM's sent for lines only.

-Austin@STM

[TwinTurboKid]

PM's sent for lines only.

-Austin@STM


I emailed you guys before about getting just the lines but never you guys never responded. Can you pm me price aswell? Also on the Abs Delete kit for the Evo's you guys sell just the lines aswell?

[i3igpete]

ooo ooo ooo kits still available?

[J. Fast]

They are... I just bought one Pete. It's easy to pull everything too! You going to take the wiring and the abandoned lines out? There's probably 30lbs in there.

[i3igpete]

hmmmm...

still available at introductory price austin? :D

[J_Parker]

Just got mine today, I couldn't be happier with it either. Very good quality and simple to install, I also got the clutch lines to go with it!

[bfretless]

I just saw this thread. I tried searching through it but I can't find anything concerning whether this will be cross compatible with the NA chassis. If not do you have anything that would work?


As far as i can tell this will work on all models, every Mitsu caliper i have seen here uses that same thread in the caliper, and the OEM prop valve for non-ABS is the same as the NA's use.

If you are interested in it, I will give you a discount on it, and you can be the first NA that i know of to try the kit, and let me know if it needs any changes, but im sure it will work just how it is.

-Austin@STM

Has anyone installed on an NA yet? If not, I'll be the first I guess. Just ordered a kit for my SL.

[bfretless]

Just finished the install. Man, getting the old hard lines out is a bear. I had to dremel the last couple out in pieces. The STM kit went in without a problem on my NA. All the fittings matched up, lines were the right lengths, everything just worked. Routing the flex lines in the steering and brake booster areas was a little challenging, just because I wanted it neat and without any spots rubbing. Not completely happy with my work around the steering gear, but oh well. I'll check on the lines in a couple of months to be sure nothing is wearing through.

Thanks, Austin and STM for saving me from a really expensive ABS HU replacement job.

Now, with no ABS HU hooked up, what else could/should I remove? I know about the jumper wire at the control unit under the rear panel, and will be doing that. Can I take anything else out that I don't need/can't use now?

[Austin@STM]

You should be able to just take the whole ABS computer out as there is nothing for it to control anymore, thats how i ran mine. I had that pulled before i even pulled out the ABS pump/lines. Also pull the fuse just to be safe in case any of the wires somehow come in contact with anything they wont short out. If you really wanted to get crazy with it, you can take out the wheel speed sonsors and the sensor rings on the axles.

Glad everything worked out easily, and as far as anything rubbing through you should have an issue with anything, the lines are all coated so there is no bare stainless to rub or cut through anything.

-Austin@STM

[STiedVR4Guy]

"If you really wanted to get crazy with it, you can take out the wheel speed sonsors and the sensor rings on the axles."

Will this affect anything else? Is there any point to these if the ABS is removed?

[Austin@STM]

Not to my knowledge, a wiring diagram would tell you for sure if its connected to anything else.

The sensors in the wheels just tell it if one wheel is locked up when the others arent and tells it to engage the ABS.

[bluemax_1]

"If you really wanted to get crazy with it, you can take out the wheel speed sonsors and the sensor rings on the axles."

Will this affect anything else? Is there any point to these if the ABS is removed?

The speed sensors weigh next to nothing but removing them will allow you to remove the knuckle/hub assembly much easier if you ever need to.

The sensor rings on the other hand will take about 1, maybe 1.5 lbs off the rotating weight of the axles.


Max

[bfretless]

You should be able to just take the whole ABS computer out as there is nothing for it to control anymore, thats how i ran mine. I had that pulled before i even pulled out the ABS pump/lines. Also pull the fuse just to be safe in case any of the wires somehow come in contact with anything they wont short out. If you really wanted to get crazy with it, you can take out the wheel speed sonsors and the sensor rings on the axles.

Glad everything worked out easily, and as far as anything rubbing through you should have an issue with anything, the lines are all coated so there is no bare stainless to rub or cut through anything.

-Austin@STM

What about the dash light? I've been pulling the ABS fuse every winter, but then the ABS light on the dash is on all the time. I understood the jumper wire fixed the light problem. If I just pull everything, won't the light be on all the time? Is the light driven by the ABS or ECU? I could just cut power to the light... Guess some manual reading is in order.


The speed sensors weigh next to nothing but removing them will allow you to remove the knuckle/hub assembly much easier if you ever need to.

The sensor rings on the other hand will take about 1, maybe 1.5 lbs off the rotating weight of the axles.


Max

Yeah, would like to get rid of all the ABS hardware at the wheels. I think to get them off my NA, I would have to unbolt them and then cut them in half. If I remember right from replacing a front wheel bearing, the ABS ring has to go on before the bearing and knuckle are pressed together.

[STiedVR4Guy]

Anyone have pictures of the speed sensors?? I would like to try this out. Doing my brakes and this kit this weekend. I know 1.5 lbs of rotating weight isn't much but it all adds up :)

Would like to get things right the first time.

Edit: found this on 3sx http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=28570. I should be able to go off this thanks for the info guys!

[bluemax_1]

Yeah, would like to get rid of all the ABS hardware at the wheels. I think to get them off my NA, I would have to unbolt them and then cut them in half. If I remember right from replacing a front wheel bearing, the ABS ring has to go on before the bearing and knuckle are pressed together.

As the link Stied posted, the ABS ring is actually attached to the halfshaft/axle. You have to remove the halfshaft from the hub/knuckle and then hammer the ABS ring off or use a gear puller, which could be a pain if it's the original half shaft and it's rusted on.


Max

[bfretless]

Max, on FWD they bolt to the wheel hub. I know this because when I replaced the driver's front wheel bearing on my SL, the machine shop pressed in the new hub and bearing and forgot the ABS ring. They had to press it out, bolt on the ring, and press it back together again. :Doh:

3Sx - Wheel Hub & Bearing Parts (http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=631)

[STiedVR4Guy]

The sensor rings on the other hand will take about 1, maybe 1.5 lbs off the rotating weight of the axles.

Max

Question on this.. Is that TOTAL or EACH? (1-1.5lbs)

[DG]

Why people want to remove one of the best safety and performance features of modern cars is beyond me.

I kept the ABS in the race car. It kept the tires round, it gave a better indication of when you had exceeded the available grip level, and it saved my ass more than once in the wet.

Even though the 3S system is not as advanced as the stuff you can get in a new car, it is still light years better than not having ABS at all.

DG

[J_Parker]

Why people want to remove one of the best safety and performance features of modern cars is beyond me.

I kept the ABS in the race car. It kept the tires round, it gave a better indication of when you had exceeded the available grip level, and it saved my ass more than once in the wet.

Even though the 3S system is not as advanced as the stuff you can get in a new car, it is still light years better than not having ABS at all.

DG

Not in any way to start an argument, or call your opinion down, but I have had many times in my Stealth problems with the ABS making it near to impossible to stop in a tight situation. I prefer them without in this car, anything newer though I wouldn't go without, It's just too primitive in the 3/S.

[IPD]

Why people want to remove one of the best safety and performance features of modern cars is beyond me.

I kept the ABS in the race car. It kept the tires round, it gave a better indication of when you had exceeded the available grip level, and it saved my ass more than once in the wet.

Even though the 3S system is not as advanced as the stuff you can get in a new car, it is still light years better than not having ABS at all.

DG

years of being in the 3/s community have given me the distinct impression that the 3/s ABS system is a flawed construct at best. while i agree with the concept, and i fully support the employment thereof--i fail to see the merit in the 3/s's OEM system.

[bluemax_1]

Max, on FWD they bolt to the wheel hub. I know this because when I replaced the driver's front wheel bearing on my SL, the machine shop pressed in the new hub and bearing and forgot the ABS ring. They had to press it out, bolt on the ring, and press it back together again. :Doh:

3Sx - Wheel Hub & Bearing Parts (http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItemBundle.asp?idProduct=631)
Never messed with the fwd 3/s's.

As far as the actual weight of the abs rings go, I can't recall as it's been a while. They are fairly substantial pieces though. Wouldn't want to drop one on your foot while wearing sandals.


Max

[DG]

but I have had many times in my Stealth problems with the ABS making it near to impossible to stop in a tight situation

Mechanical problems with the ABS system itself, or the car "just wouldn't stop"?

Because if it is a case of the car "just wouldn't stop" that probably means there wasn't any grip - which means your inability to stop was because you were going too fast for the conditions, and the ABS probably saved your life.

When I got my Stealth, I heard a bunch of these "the ABS in these cars sucks" complaints - so I did some testing. Wet, dry, and snow, the ABS system on these cars is FINE. Maybe not as sophisticated as more modern stuff, but there is CERTAINLY no underlying flaw in the system.

I have a buddy who raced a 1996 Mustang GT (similar system). He had no ABS on the car, and after a couple of races his tires were octagons. We retrofit a Mustang ABS system onto the car (as was permitted by our rules) and not only did he suddenly keep his tires round, the car got faster because he was no longer locking wheels on corner entry.

Same deal with Vipers. I used to have this gig where I taught Chrysler engineers how to drive at the limit, and we used Vipers and Prowlers. Vipers were very unforgiving in braking, because there was a lot of braking power there, (and a lot of grip) so it was very easy to lock a wheel. When they introduced ABS in... 2000, maybe? The cars got WAY faster and easier to drive, because the consequences of locking a wheel at corner entry went away.


years of being in the 3/s community have given me the distinct impression that the 3/s ABS system is a flawed construct at best.

"Heard it from a friend who, heard it from a friend" is not science nor engineering.

I tested the system. It's fine, and far better than the alternative of not having it. A "holy shit" moment, assuming the system is mechanically and electrically sound, is the driver's fault for carrying more speed than appropriate, NOT the fault of the ABS.

I'm keeping mine.

DG

[J_Parker]

Wooo, congratulations on arguing, it's a matter of opinion like I said, I don't like it, you do. Leave it at that, right there you came off as politely calling everyone here in this thread an idiot. Nobody calls such for those that keep it, we just want some weight reduction and cleaner looking engine bays, yours may have been fine when you tested it, however the majority of the systems don't perform as they should due to age, they age poorly, that is the flaw. Other than my Stealth, I have never owned a vehicle with ABS, and am not yet dead. Some foot control on the brake pedal is key without ABS...

[DG]

however the majority of the systems don't perform as they should due to age, they age poorly, that is the flaw

Then repair the broken system.

Removing it disables a proven performance-increasing capability that in addition provides a significant safety feature. How is that a good call?


it's a matter of opinion

Science is not a matter of opinion. Science is testable and repeatable. Science can be graded, judged, and scored.

"Opinion" cannot change the fact that the car is faster and safer with the ABS installed than not.


we just want some weight reduction and cleaner looking engine bays

By that logic, you should be pulling out turbos too - there's probably 60 easy pounds to be had by removing turbos and intercoolers and wastegates and whatnot. Plus all those tubes, ducts, and vacuum lines? Should be a no-brainer to pull all that junk off.

Of course, you'll lose a lot of performance... but at least you'll be lighter and cleaner, right?

That IS what you want - right?


right there you came off as politely calling everyone here in this thread an idiot

Let's go with "misinformed".

There is this "common knowledge" that the 3S ABS "sucks".

That "common knowledge" is WRONG. The 3S ABS does NOT "suck"; instead it adds a metric assload of performance and safety. And the 3S weighs 3800-odd pounds loaded - it needs all the braking help it can get. It isn't a 2700 lb go-cart.

Let's say this thread was about one of these products:

TORNADO Air Management Systems :: More Power! More Mileage! (http://www.tornadoair.com/buy1/)
K&J Magnetics - Products (http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=FuelMag1&gclid=CLb3qI_GiakCFcW8KgodWg5GrQ)
The Official Website Authentic Q-Ray Merchandise (http://www.qray.ca/default.aspx)
JIC Magic (http://www.jic-magic.com/)
Unorthodox Racing (http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/)

Wouldn't you want somebody to speak up?

I don't blame the vendor; he is just filling a demand. It is the demand that is misinformed.

DG

[Austin@STM]

If you want to have argue about why to keep ABS, please keep it out of my thread. This is for people that want to delete ABS.

[J_Parker]

Apologies Austin.

[Austin@STM]

No worries, just wanna keep it on track.

[IPD]

thanks, austin. great product!

i think DG needs to start his own "bitch" thread where he can tell everyone why every mod they put on their car sucks & why the stock suspension is so full of win (in his opinion).

[DG]

Not every mod; just the ones that do suck.

Thanks to my job history (professional racing engineer) I have access to data that most do not. Would you prefer I not share?

DG

[i3igpete]

honestly, all it takes to end this debate for our cars is for someone to take a 30 second video in the snow. the balder the tires, the better. Then we can see how the ABS compares before and after the fuse is pulled.

[J_Parker]

Enough with the debate you guys, Austin has asked kindly to keep the argument away from the thread. Respect his wishes and move on.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

this is a great kit, harest part is just cutting the old crap out.

I had to bleed my brakes a couple times, but after that I have a rock hard pedal, harder than before.

[STiedVR4Guy]

Hey was going to dive into this this weekend but it was getting late and I have never traced the brake lines. I found the ABS valve but I was wondering if anyone has a link or diagram picture somewhere they could either PM me or post in the thread.

Also, my car has 160k on it. Would it be a good idea to replace the master cylinder on it? or do these hold up quite well?

[i3igpete]

I agree, could someone draw up a MS paint sketch installation instruction?

[bfretless]

See these hard lines going around the strut tower/fender area? Take them all out.
2755

The proportioning valve is bolted (one bolt) to the center of the firewall. This is not a great pic, but that rusted block right in the center background with a couple of hard lines going into it and some more running under it is the prop valve.
2756

The rear brake lines are not replaced with the ABS delete kit. Don't cut 'em, you need to keep 'em. The rear lines are the ones that go into the top holes of the prop valve. From there they run across to the passenger side and then back under the car.

Be careful, the hard line from the clutch master to slave runs parallel to the brake lines in places. Don't cut or remove the clutch line by mistake!

Some of the lines aren't too bad to get out, others, well, let's just say I never would have finished the job without my Dremel and a cutting wheel.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

sharp pair of wire cutters works wonders for those old pesky lines

[J_Parker]

Here's for anyone wanting to know how to run the lines, it's very simple, I actually did it wrong the first time I threw the kit in. But it just doesn't look right if you do it wrong as I found out. A small walk through with Austin, and a couple of his photos told all.

I have the two top outlets on the valve going to the front calipers as the stock lines for my rears fit into their snaps and led straight to that spot. As you can see the bottom passengers side port goes to the 90* and banjo bolt like to the side of the master cylinder. The drivers side bottom port on the valve goes to the strait to 90* line, then to the top of the master cylinder.
http://www.3sgto.org/members/j_parker/albums/my-stealth-work-done/2761-img-0314.jpg

I'm going to look into weather or not the top and middle ports have any variances in supplied pressure.
http://www.3sgto.org/members/j_parker/albums/my-stealth-work-done/2762-img-0320.jpg