Time to revamp the Stereo in the Stealth

[DrGonzo]

So for the past couple years I have not had much of a stereo in the car. An old HU, some cheap Phoenix Gold speakers and a Bazooka tube. I have just spent some much time and money on other parts of the car the stereo was just there to get me by. Well I have finally started work on getting the stereo updated in the car. As of now here is the equipment I will be adding into the car:

HU - Kenwood KDC-655U - I like the clean look and it has 6 outputs which will allow me to control all channels from the HU
Dash Speakers - Infinity 10.9T 1" - Nice clean sound and I was able to mount them in the old dash baskets.
Door Speakers - MEMPHIS 6.5" PR63V2
Rear Speakers - MEMPHIS 15-MC692
Sub - Single 10" either my Memphis DVC or my Polk Momo DVC, I have yet to decide.
Main Amp - Alpine MRV-F357 - 5 channel to power sub, rear & doors
Front amp - Alpine MRP-T130 - This is to power the tweeters in the dash
Sub Processor - AudioControl Epicenter - this will clean up the bass signal
Surround processor - I have yet to decide on what I want to use for this. Possible Audio Control


One of the main things I have to work around it the fact that I need to keep and have easy access to the spare tire. Considering what I am putting into the car this was going to be fun. I decided to go the route of making the amp rack a hinged door that will lift up and allow me access to the spare and tools. the sub is going to go into a corner box I built as I am only going to run one sub for this. So far I have gotten the sub box built "minus the hole cut", the frame for the hinge mechanism and the hinge door.

the hinge is a metal frame welded together and bolted to the floor and rear strut well.
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1340.JPG


Here is what it look like with the door installed on the frame.
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1341.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1342.JPG

The spot on the right side will be where the future battery will go once I get a dry cell battery. The current battery box behind the rear seat will be removed.

The door itself will mount the 5 channel amp, Epicenter and whatever processor I go with. Carpeted panels will be built later to cover everything up.

The truck itself has been rattle proofed some time ago using eDead panels I bought years ago. the cabin will also get the same treatment but I will add in a layer of acoustic foam also to help keep out the road noise as that is not the purpose of the eDead. All panels that are screwed to metal will get treated to stop them from rattling. The rear speaker pod will be sealed up and I'll add in some door pods to seal the door speakers also.

With me working 5 days a week and getting home so late the sun is down, I really only have time to work on this during the weekends. I hope to get the back rack done this weekend minus the cover panels. This would have gotten farther these last two weeks but I found some rust on the hatch where the grommets for the rear trim piece attaches that was allowing water in, so I had to cut out the rust, weld in need metal and bond over things. I still have to sand and paint where the rust hole was. I'm still waiting on a few items to come in and then I get to pull the interior for the sound deadening and running wires, yea fun!!

[2fnloud]

Let me know if you want AudioControl I have the 6 channel (in & out) Digital EQ (30 band + 2 paragraph band) DQS (http://www.audiocontrol.com/19173/products/DQS-Six-Channel-Digital-Car-Audio-Equalizer----DISCONTUNUED.html) and AudioControl digital 3-way X-over (2 in 6 out: 2sub 2 mid 2 high) DXS (http://www.audiocontrol.com/49399/14158/Discontinued-Products/DXS-Digital-Car-Audio-Crossover.html)

I have been on the fence about selling.

[mb3000]

Looking good! Love the spare tire idea!

[DrGonzo]

The DQS is one of the ones I'm looking at as I want to stay 3in-3out. Most Eq's are 1 or 2 in and 6 out. PM me what your wanting for it.

[2fnloud]

with or with out the the remote display controller?

[2fnloud]

mind you the DQS is 6 in 6 out unless you meant 3 pairs in and 3 pairs out. the DXS would be ideal for a front active x-over vs. passive...but not too many do that, that is high SQ setups.

[DrGonzo]

yeah, I meant three pairs...LOL

Without the DCC as I'm more of set it and forget it. :)

[DrGonzo]

So I now have an equalizer thanks to Steve :)

The Epicenter came in the mail today. Waiting on the rest of the RCA stuff to come in at this point. Along with the router tool I needed to cut the hole for the sub. I also use the router bits on the cover panels to make some nice smooth rounded edges and inserts.

[DrGonzo]

So today I got a little work done but not much. Little hard to work long hours outside in 30 degree weather.

Today I concentrated on a little interior work. I needed to run the RCA, wires for the tweeters and the remote wire. So I pulled the seats and carpet out. I use a metal foil tape to secure the wires and RCA's. This tape will help shield the RCA's from outside noise. I also added in a few panels of eDead tot he floor panels. After that I laid some carpet padding down. The padding is great for keeping outside noise out of the cabin. I'll also use the padding in the doors and hatch area. The roll I got from Home Depot was about $30.00 and should do the entire car. I used a spray glue to hold the padding to the floor. the padding is thin enough to not interfere with the stock carpet so it lays back in just fine. I just had to trim around mounting points like for the front and rear seats. Here are some shots of the work I got done today.


Seats and Carpet pulled. 6 channel Stinger RCA's run to secured
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1347.JPG

eDead laid down.
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1349.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1350.JPG

Padding laid down
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1351.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1352.JPG

Carpet back in the car. I need to steam clean it again... :(
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1353.JPG

More to come tomorrow!!

[mb3000]

Looks great!

[duke3k]

...oh man...this process looks familiar.... looks like it's proceeding nicely Greg....

a possible suggestion for you since you've got the interior out... I know you've made up your mind for your HU (the Kenwood KDC-655U) but if you ever change your mind down the road and go with a unit that has a Video screen (for GPS or dvd ) either double din or pop out - most of these units come with a backup camera video input that auto switches when you go into reverse... to install a back up camera you'll need to run a composite video cable and three wires (power, ground & backup light signal wire) to the HU.... Now would be a good time to run those wires if you ever think you might want to do this.

duke

[DrGonzo]

So inside working still. I got the tweeters mounted into the old stock baskets. I need to add a little black cloth between the grill and basket so you can't see the tweeter.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1354.JPG

The other Alpine amp I will be using for the tweeters was bigger than I though ti was going to be. I was hoping to mount the tweeter amp underneath the stereo but that is not going to happen now. Luckily I should have enough room in the Amp rack area to accommodate this amp also.

I also picked up a roll of RGB led strips with controller that I will be using to light up the rear hatch area.



...oh man...this process looks familiar.... looks like it's proceeding nicely Greg....

a possible suggestion for you since you've got the interior out... I know you've made up your mind for your HU (the Kenwood KDC-655U) but if you ever change your mind down the road and go with a unit that has a Video screen (for GPS or dvd ) either double din or pop out - most of these units come with a backup camera video input that auto switches when you go into reverse... to install a back up camera you'll need to run a composite video cable and three wires (power, ground & backup light signal wire) to the HU.... Now would be a good time to run those wires if you ever think you might want to do this.



duke

I thought long and hard about adding in a touch screen but in the end decided against is.

Couple things deterred me:

1. My stereo surround has 3 gauges in it so I couldn't do a double din.
2. A pop out unit would most likely hit the vent area above it and cover up the A/C controls.
3. Since I an stuck using the top din, a pup out unit would not be able to angle correctly.
4. I'm just not that into touch screens...:p

[tokkig]

lookin good, greg

[DrGonzo]

Got the doors done, Added eDead to the outer skins and padding to seal the sound out. Nice solid sound to the door now.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1356.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1355.JPG

I got a lunch date with my wife so I'm done for the time being.

[Elderloc]

Looks good Greg. I'm jealous I wish my car didn't have the fat mat in it already so I could do it right but such is life, or I need to dry ice the crap out of it to remove it.

the tweeters look great how much modding did you have to do to the stock grills?

[DrGonzo]

the tweeters look great how much modding did you have to do to the stock grills?

I took the stock tweeters, gutted them and used a dremel to cut the magnet portion off. this left me with metal fingers on the basket I could bend to secure the new tweeter. Little hot glue to secure them and all good to go!

Little more progress done this weekend. The dremel attachment for cutting holes finally came in the mail. This allows me to make perfect circle cuts. After the hole was cut I drilled out the sub mounting holes and attached t-nuts inside the box. i hate using screws to mount the sub as after time of removing/installing the sub it tears up the wood for the box. Using the T-nuts will help preserve the box over time and is more secure.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1379.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1378.JPG

Anotehr problem that needed addressing is the rear hatch. It loves to rattle and adding in edead and foam is not enough. I used spray expanding foam to fill in the crevices of the sides of the hatch. The foam I used does not get completely hard so it will not just break apart after time. I am able to use a steak knife to cut it once it has dried up. Then added in some edead and foam and the hatch is all done.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1380.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1381.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1382.JPG

I got the rear speaker panels out. I took the rear speaker pods out, removed the port that was on them and sealed them up. I never understood the purpose of those ports as all they did was direct the sound right into the rear panel. I also resealed them to the frame as the old foam seals were bad. I am waiting on the rear Memphis 6x9's to get in still so the panels are all still apart.

Since the amp rack will have a plexiglass cover I needed some lighting to light things up with. I ended up getting some RGB led strip lighting that comes with a remote control. The LED strip can be cut to length and comes with built in solder points to reattach the pieces. It came in a 50ft roll so I have plenty to work with. I rolled it out up the stairs to test it out. here is a video of it going though the color fade sequence. it is so bright I couldn't get the camera to focus on the LED's when it was lit up.....lol the LED's are encases in a clear gel so they won't get damaged.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EswPpFiMKTI

[green-lantern]

Very cool!

[2fnloud]

Why not use the hard stuff?

[DrGonzo]

The hard stuff will break apart due to a couple different things. Heat and cold will expand/contract the metal and could break the foam free. Also the vibrations from the sub being pointed right up at the trunk lid. I didn't want a bunch of hard foam chunks rattling around in the trunk lid cause they broke apart. the foam I used has some elasticity to it which will help in those areas.

[2fnloud]

Interesting 5 years the hard stuff lasted in my Saturn trunk, and that shook like a vibrating bed at a 2-bit hotel.

I was going to just as rubber washers where needed to stop the rattle in my stealth, I did had the sound deadener, but I get why you need to do so much more.

[DrGonzo]

So I got the power distribution panel finished today. This panel will be mounted to the stock rear strut channel. It will be the only thing visible when the rear seats are down. this panel only have the power for the amps. Everything else will have power come through a separate fused block as I don't like feeding power off the same block/lines as the amps as it can caused voltage fluctuations in the lines. the capacitor is an old Blackmore 2 fared cap which will be more than enough reserve power for the two amps I have running.I have had this cap for about 10 years now and it looked like crap. So I wrapped in a CF vinyl I had which came out real nice minus the damn dent in the cap which I can't fix....

Left side is the fuse block, right side is the grounding block. Picture makes them look crooked but they are all mounted straight.


http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1398.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1395.JPG

Rear speakers showed up today so I'll get them installed as soon as I can. Looks like we are going to get about 6" of snow tonight so I won't be able to get anything done the next couple days most likely...

[DrGonzo]

Little more progress. I started to lay out the amps and processors in the trunk and realized I had too many things to fit in the space I had. So I had to relocate the small Alpine amp that was powering the front tweeters. I decided to move it under the passenger seat. This means I had to cut out the carpet and padding to mount it to the floor as that was the only way to get it under there and the seat to still be able to move.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1406.jpg

I also got the rear speakers installed along with the power distribution panel all mounted. I started running some of the power wires and the RCA's. I may have to build risers for the main amp and processors so I can cleanly run the wires. Running them under the hinged panel will not work as they will be touching the spare tire which I don't want as it may rub through the wires in time.

The best part is I found a leak in the trunk. Somehow water is getting into the rear hatch through the trunk lid. When I open it up the trunk lid spills water out and I have a nice little puddle of water in the trunk floor. Luckily I have been covering up all the wood in the trunk with the old spare tire panel and carpet so it all stayed dry. So either the water is coming in through the rear window molding mount points, or the tape I used over the rear wing holes is leaking water in. I started my re-attaching the rear window trim. I added silicone around the little plastic clips in the trunk lid and siliconed the clips themselves in. Needless to say, the back of the silicone tube opened up and I have a big ass glob of black silicone on the trunk lid...

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1407.JPG

So I'm going to wait until it dries completely to remove it as that should minimise the mess..


My last power/fuse distribution block what will power the processors and other low power items came in today so that should take car of the items I am missing to finish the wiring. I still need to build 2 battery mounts/tie downs so I can mount the battery in the engine bay and one in the rear.

I also lucked out and got a new Alternator regulator from RockAuto for about $70.00. So I'll be rebuilding my alternator to get the most out of it and make sure it is in top notch.

My other issue is a damn leaking passenger side front axle seal. I replaced it with a new OEM one that cost me almost $40 but I think I pinched the axle bore portion of the seal installing it and it is leaking again because of it. So I order some Beck/Arnley seals at $5.00 each from Rockauto to swap it out again. Atleast this time I have 3 spare ones to get it right...LOL

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

I don't think the beck/arney seals fit the TT models. I had a thread here somewhere about which aftermarket ones actually work.

[DrGonzo]

I don't think the beck/arney seals fit the TT models. I had a thread here somewhere about which aftermarket ones actually work.

Guess I'll find out this week....LOL. Let me know which ones are correct if you come across it.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

http://www.3sgto.org/transmission-suspension-drivetrain/8964-aftermarket-transmission-seals.html

[DrGonzo]

Perfect, Thanks!

[zel-man]

I have had this cap for about 10 years now and it looked like crap. So I wrapped in a CF vinyl I had which came out real nice minus the damn dent in the cap which I can't fix....

Hey Greg, could you fill the dent with body putty/bondo and then re-cover again with CF vinyl?

[Primus101]

Great thread as always, Greg- Have you ran an epicenter before?

[2fnloud]

Epicenter is OK, I like Phoenix Gold's Bass C.U.B.E. more. Finding one can be an issue.

[n2nsanity]

Man, you never disappoint, lol

[DrGonzo]

So little progress on things. I got all of the wiring done and I'm now working on the beauty panels to cover everything up.

One of my setbacks was trying to find terminals for the 1/0 wiring I'm using. None of the stereo shops carry lugs this big and the ones that do are cheap gold plated ones. I was able to track down 4 copper ones but I needed 4 more. Time to go old school....


If you ever look close enough at a copper lug you will see that it is nothing more that a piece of crushed piping. Soo...
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1417.JPG

I think this is a 5/8 copper pipe I got from Home Depot for about $7.00. I use on of my other lugs to measure things out.

Soldering is the best method but is not good for strength, this is were crimping comes in. Since I crimp and then solder I needed to be able to access the end of the wires in the lug. Drilled a hole in the pipe about the point I would crush it. This gives access to add in the solder.
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1419.JPG

From here it's simple enough. Crush the end and drill a hole.
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1420.JPG

Round the edges
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1421.JPG

Then cut it off the main piece of pipe. you now have a home made copper lug. Not pretty but they work just the same.
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1423.JPG

I only used these in places they will not be seen. The ones on the capacitor are the bought ones as they look better.

[DrGonzo]

Here are the pics of the stereo wiring. I still had a few things to finish up when these were taken and it's all done now. I need to buy the screw type holders to secure the wires in the amp rack as all I have now are the sticky ones.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1430.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1427.JPG

The ugly side of things which will all be covered by the beauty panels once there done...
http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1429.JPG


I got to fire up the stereo and do a rough tune. It sounds Fucking Awesome!!! The front end is nice and crisp and the bass is very tight. I was a little concerned with the box when I built it but I guess I have nothing to worry about.

On the downside, my assumption that the Kinetic 800 battery in the rear would be enough to start the car was way of.... It barely turned the car over. i had to hook up the truck to the battery to start it. I had a back=up plan for this and I'm in the process of adding my old full sized battery back to the engine bay. I'm tracking down a stock battery tray to mount it. This means I will have to upgrade some of the stock wiring as it was trimmed when the battery was in the trunk. So it's not long enough now. :(

[2fnloud]

Looks great. the AudioControl piece looks great

[DrGonzo]

So I got some of the cover panels done.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1436.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1435.JPG

I have the parts to build the risers for the electronics as right now thy sit too deep in the rack. once the risers are built there will be plexi-glass covering them. I routered the edges of the cutouts to really finish them off which makes a nice transition. Then I'll add in the lighting behind the panels to light things up. I may be able to get the other front panels done tomorrow!

[green-lantern]

I'm loving this thread, just want you to know I've been watching it :)

[DrGonzo]

I was able to get the rest of the panel done and it looks Awsome!! Risers were a pain trying o get things to line up with the panel cut-outs. They all angle down just slightly. I did this for later on as they will light up better when at a slight angle. I need to clean the amp a little as it is really dirty...lol.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1437.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1438.JPG

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1440.JPG

I need to build some panels behind the cut-out as you can see the wires through the hole. I'll need some small ones just to hide things, Nothing big. I also need to attach the plexi over that hole. I had to remove the sunroof mounts to get the second panel in there. That panel can't be removed without removing those mounts. The second top panel and the front one with the cutout are one piece.

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1439.JPG

Only thing I have left is to add in the lighting.

[hdorre]

http://3s.gonzoinc.com/albums/userpics/10002/IMG_1417.JPG


Woah, woah, woah.. That font looks awfully familiar.. Is that SHCA? haha.. Jon's a good dude.

[DrGonzo]

Yep. Sky High Car Audio.

I was upset when I realized I order CCA and not solid copper. Luckily the 1/0 gauge was overkill anyway for the ground so it's all good...:p

[hdorre]

Yep. Sky High Car Audio.

I was upset when I realized I order CCA and not solid copper. Luckily the 1/0 gauge was overkill anyway for the ground so it's all good...:p

For what you're running, I don't see there being much of a difference between a CCA and OFC run.

I read through the build log, and Im really enjoying it. Keep on keeping on :)

[DrGonzo]

So I got the lighting installed in the main amp rack portion. I still need to finish off the front plexi then add in the lighting. The lighting is remote controlled and the way I have it set up is I can point the remote at the epicenter to control the lights. Here is a video of it running through the smooth color change at a somewhat fast pace. I think I'll keep it on the smooth color change option but just slow down the transition some.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Lpego8wrjk


I need to clean the plexi as it has smudges and fingerprints all over it. I also need to lower the EQ some on the backside as I noticed the screws in the top of the EQ are rubbing on the plexi...

[n2nsanity]

This project has turned out great. Can't wait to see it in person :)

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

That looks awesome man. I never had a talent for making things from scratch that look nice.

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[green-lantern]

Chris would have red RTV squishing out of the box :lo5l:

:poke: :wink:

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

Chris would have red RTV squishing out of the box :lo5l:



:poke: :wink:



Nah I would've made it out of steel and my mig😃





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