Tuning my 3sx executioners

[jazz9]

Hello All,

First up, im new to chrome tuning so bear with me. I'm also from Australia with a JDM gto.

I've had a few problems with my wideband so today I put a plx on instead of the innovate. Sooooo much better.

Attached is a log of my first runs, it goes very rich and i'm going to be sorting that out.

No knock currently, but im only running 7.2psi ( as indicated on the lcd boost controller )

I'm not sure what people use for dyno setting? dynojet or mustang ? who knows ?

mods are :

Forged Internals, Dejon sidemounts, 3sxcutionors, upgraded manifold and dump, EVO 8 maf, cam gears ( set to 0), 99 SL ecu, LCD Boost Controller, 560CC injectors, walbro 255L, RPS MAXX clutch, SCE CENTER DIFF, SCE OBX front diff, reinforced endcase, transfer case bracket.

Exhaust has upgrade downpipes and no cats, stock catback.

I'm not sure that those afr's are right ... is there a different scaling for the plx? cruise seems correct thou. The wideband is doing narowband simulation into the rear o2 pin and then chrome is set the run the trims off the rear o2 only.

I'll be updating this with progress every week!

I did a boost leak check last week and found a few, fixed them except the tb shaft seals. I've ordered a rebuilt one from April. Reckon that will change the afr much?

Glen

[jazz9]

Anyone else think its running way to much timing ? I really need to log maf reading too.

[kywhitelightning]

Odds are good you are in a really low portion of the timing map if it is unaltered from stock. You may want to check your oil for contamination holding that AFR for that long. You need to log 2 byte airflow and 2 byte ECU load to know where the ecu has you in the maps. The timing delivered suggests 120-140 load. That does line up a little with the 7 psi of boost you were running at the time. As your boost raises so will the airflow and the load and that will push the timing in the map to the right, hopefully delivering a little lower like you want. Good luck, looking foreward to progress.

Jeff

[jazz9]

Thanks jeff for the reply.

Ill check oil tomorrow. I will have to check the maf settings as thats may be the issue. I woild have thought that the stock map scaled for 560s and maf would be alot closer. I might post up some screenshots of my ecu settings to double check them.

Glen

[jazz9]

Should I run mustang or dynojet? What is more common?

[NOMIEZVR4]

Dynojet

[jazz9]

Dynojet

Do you know what the stock wieght is ? i read conflicting reports ? 1650kg ?

[jazz9]

ok so the plx uses a different scaling, i've converted the afr on the logs now. see attached.

Should I be adding fuel down low?

[kywhitelightning]

Your 1691 kg is pretty close to a stock car weight with reduction and without driver. It could be a little heavier but that depends on what you have done to it. Stock should be 1710 + driver weight.

Jeff

[jazz9]

hi, you got in just before I updated the afr's in the last pic - take a look. ( i stuffed up the correction before )

[kywhitelightning]

Yes I would add a little.

Jeff

[jazz9]

cool, i'll do that tomorrow. Also, im having trouble believing the hp this is making at 7.2psi ? Seems high to me? It feels quick, but not that quick. I've logged it a few times with +-5hp or so. Checked tyre size and weights.

Do you think that the final drive setting in virtual dyno could be off for my jdm car?

[jazz9]

ok, so after some playing around, i found that the final drive ratio was incorrect - that was why the numbers read high!

So, the corrected numbers are attached. Seems much more likely.

[jazz9]

What do you guys reckon of these ?

Universal VC2 Autolearn Methanol Water Injection (boost/vacuum) (http://www.coolingmist.com/pagedisplay.aspx?pid=vc2systemx&feature_key=systemx)

when I run out of 98RON Fuel ( your 93 pump fuel ) i'll save for some water / meth

[jazz9]

Went out and did some more testing after I fitted up the boost controller.

11psi - 11.5psi it was bouncing a bit

370hp with dynojet calc

Very happy with the progress, it feels a lot quicker with the extra 4psi.

[jazz9]

93km/h to 153 km/h in 5 seconds ....

[jazz9]

11.5psi vs 13.5psi virtual dyno attached.

I seem to have issues running over 14-15psi above 5000rpm. No knock, but it misses. I think it will be spark blowout. Maybe I have weak coils or plugs gaped to large?

What are the recommended plugs / gap for upto 20 psi ? and should I but a hks twinspark and a new coilpack ?

[Greg E]

Yes you should definately look into an ignition amp.

[NOMIEZVR4]

whats your current spark plug gap? What kind of plugs and wires?

[jazz9]

Ordered a hks dli. hopefully that will fix it.

I'll pull the plugs and check the gap / brand. I know they are platinum plugs.

Glen

[TurboSinceBirth]

Before you install the HKS DLI I would check a few other things. I have a feeling you will still run into the same problems and the DLI will be like a half functioning band-aid. I ran up to 24 psi on E50 with 2 step colder copper plugs gapped 0.028" before I had misfire issues on a new OEM coils and MSD wires. You shouldn't have any issues for another 5-7 lbs of boost. I'd put in some new plugs, swap in a known good set of coils if you can't afford to buy a new one, and check your spark plug wire resistance. Ignitions on these cars are finicky and should be replaced more often on these aging cars because most owners neglect it when at low power levels.

[jazz9]

Thats not what I wanted to hear .... lol ... but I will follow your advise.

Anyone know where to get new OEM coils cheap? and intake manifold gaskets ? I have the metal intake gaskets on currently, can they be reused safely?

[GTOJOE]

Should be able to get coils and gaskets from a dealer. Individual coils are the same as the pajero I think. Check eBay.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

[kywhitelightning]

How about checking what you have before going broke for parts that may not be needed. Once the gap is established, then explore your options and make purchases as needed. While the plugs are out you will be able to check the wires for both burnt spots and internal resistance. The coils can be checked easily as well.

The gaskets can reseal but I recommend pressure testing even after a new gasket install. The TB gasket can be a PITA to seal when it is reused, I have had great success reusing the upper to lower gasket though.

If you find you want like new ignition parts, I have a set of coils and wires with ~5000 miles on them. The coils spec out and look brand new. New plugs can be had between $3-4 per so just buy new.

Jeff

[TurboSinceBirth]

When you do you'll have to check the coil resistance both hot and cold because they perform differently plus you also need to check for arching. Even if they spec out within the resistance specs that doesn't 100% guarantee they'll working right as I've found out over the years. Just something to keep in mind because it does get neglected.

[jazz9]

anyone used these ?

Dodge Mitsubishi 3000GT 3 0L Ignition Coil SET OF 3 V6 KIT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dodge-Mitsubishi-3000GT-3-0L-Ignition-Coil-Set-of-3-V6-Kit-/350488661775?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A3000GT&hash=item519ac08f0f)

[mb3000]

OEM is sold as a set. I would not use anything but OEM.

Mitsubishi OEM 6G72 DOHC Coil Pack (MD152648) - Ninja Performance - Affordable Performance Auto (http://www.ninjaperformance.com/mitsubishi-oem-6g72-dohc-coil-pack-p-2240.html)

[jazz9]

well, I pulled the front plugs and they are set to ~0.043" - I think this is why I have spark issues.

The plugs are nkg pfr6j with about 3000kms on them. Reckon I keep them or get new NKG coppers ?

If get new - what model ?

Glen

[jazz9]

After some research, maybe the BCP7ES ? Should I be going one to two steps colder?

[kywhitelightning]

Sucks you bought a $500 box when all you had to do was pull the fronts to know why it was blowing out. Some of the guys on this board should be comissioned by the vendors for suggesting to buy parts to fix a problems that are most likely nonexistent.

I haven't fouled a 2 step colder plug yet. Not saying it can't be done. The colder the tip is in the combustion chamber the less likely you are to have preignition. NGK recommends 1 step colder for every 75-100HP increase. Let that be your guide based on your power goals.

Jeff

[jazz9]

HAHA, yeah, the HKS box isn't needed yet. I am planning to run water meth / 25psi and then I will need it.

I will order the 8 heat range then for a approx 420 - 440hp car @ 20psi? That seems correct?

Glen


Sucks you bought a $500 box when all you had to do was pull the fronts to know why it was blowing out. Some of the guys on this board should be comissioned by the vendors for suggesting to buy parts to fix a problems that are most likely nonexistent.

I haven't fouled a 2 step colder plug yet. Not saying it can't be done. The colder the tip is in the combustion chamber the less likely you are to have preignition. NGK recommends 1 step colder for every 75-100HP increase. Let that be your guide based on your power goals.

Jeff

[mb3000]

You should be fine with that heat range. I ran 9's at 10psi with no problems

[jazz9]

After reading how bad the EVO / 482 maf is after 400hp, should I be getting a maf translator / gm 3.5" maf? or should I be waiting for Greg to release his rumored fix?

PS Greg, if you are reading this, I can beta test the fix and do back to back virtual dyno runs.

Glen

[kywhitelightning]

Last I saw there is no GM MAF coding fix.

Jeff

[CoopKill]

Still up in the air on which MAF to go with as well. I have the 482 ready to install, but sticking with stock for now. Answers are hard to come by.

[kywhitelightning]

Stock is the best solution for plug and play. If you are ok with the translator, go blow through with at least a 3.5" GM MAF. The 3" seemed to start running out of resolution north of 500AWHP.

Jeff

[Toni]

The 3" seemed to start running out of resolution north of 500AWHP.

Have any sources for this info?

[kywhitelightning]

Yeah, years ago when I had a 3" it wouldn't count up as high as my 3.5 that is in there now, same conditions. A chat with full throttle tech support will support this as well. They were the ones that recommended I upsize the MAF.

Jeff

[jazz9]

Fitted R5671-8 copper plugs today, gapped at 0.75mm (0.029) and the spark blowout is gone!
Fitted a 3sx underhood fuel kit.
Fitted a newly rebuild throttle body.

One of these fix my 2000-3000rpm hesitation.

Ran 15psi and it feels really strong. I've attached the Virtual Dyno, 421awhp.

I took it out tonight and it seems to run well, except the boost seems to creep upto > 16 psi, then it hits the LCD boost controller boost limiter. Got to up the boost to 19psi and see how it goes.

Next step is to adjust the cam gears. I think ill just set them to the normal recommended. How much hp do you think I'll pick up?

Glen

[kywhitelightning]

I mean no offense here but those numbers seem a bit inflated based on boost. What elevation are you currently living at? The Dynojet CF is pretty high so unless you are at some pretty serious elevation you will need to use a lower CF than the DJ one in VD. Sea level CF is 1.

Jeff

[NOMIEZVR4]

yeah i agree...CF should be a standard listing along with every dyno chart...;)

[jazz9]

No offense taken, I did ask at the start of the thread what settings / weights I should use to get the best accuracy.

I've attached the log for someone else to look at. I'm running the stock VD settings and I believe that is 1.09

At a correction factor of 1, it reads 386hp. Hopefully that is more accurate. I use to for a difference number for previous mods, so the number isn't soo important.

I live on the coast so its very close to 0.

What kind of hp increase do you think im looking at by adjusting cam gears?

Glen

[kywhitelightning]

You say you were running 15psi but the graph shows right around 13 peak tapering down to 11 psi. I assume boost/AFR smooting is on? 380's is a good number even at 15psi and a bit of a stretch at 11psi. At 15HP/1psi you will be near if not over the 500 mark with your current goals. Good luck and here is a good thread to reference what those babies are capable of especially with your goals in mind.

3SX Executioners 529AWHP - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center (http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/3sx-executioners-529awhp-506515/)

Jeff

[jazz9]

that is afr not boost.

[jazz9]

I think the Dejon Sidemounts are helping also, they seem to do a very good job. I'm going to go the cooling mist setup, that sound get me into the high 400's or maybe if im lucky, 500!!

500hp is my goal with meth.

I took it on a cruise the other day and its already quite fast, but I think that is due to the fact that I drive a 3L nj pajero normally!! haha ( it has a 6g72 so it was only logical, for that fact the wives car is a 380, that runs a 6g75! Its a mitsu v6 house )

[kywhitelightning]

that is afr not boost.

Dah:6:. I guess I just saw the numbers next to boost and figured that's what it was referencing. Brainfart, and appologies.

Jeff

[kywhitelightning]

I took my car to the dyno finally and have come to a conclusion about Virtual Dyno and the various correction factors in the options menu. I took my car to a Dynojet and when I correct the temperature and baro blocks in the upper left to actual current readings, I would say they are pretty close when using the Dynojet correction factor in VD, at least within 20HP. Without correcting air temp and baro, especially at or near sea level it, will significantly elevate the readings as the standard SAE correction given is 29.23. Near sea level barometric pressures typically hover near 30+. That is a big difference in air density! Both air temp and baro constantly change throughout the day so find a good local weather source that can give an hourly breakdown of the ambient conditions, check the block where it says SAE, enter your conditions during the pull, click anywhere on the graph for the changes to take effect, and you're all set. I hope this helps OP.

Jeff

[KeithMac]

Once you get into the 25psi range the car will be a different animal altogether!.

Blowthrough is deffinitely an advantage for driveability, car will react much better to throttle changes.

I'm on 3" Maf-t and trying to tune around it at higer boost pressures but wouldn't go back to drawthrough now..