Exhaust cut out on stock active exhaust switch?

[chinese]

I have installed an exhaust cutout on my aftermarket exhaust.
One side of my exhaust have a muffler and the other side has no muffler. When its closed the gas go through the muffler only one side (quiet), and when open it goes both sides, especially where no muffler (loud)

It comes now with a small remote control but I would like to use my active exhaust switch so I can remain more "factory looking" and have the "tour" light on my dash, so I can have a visual on what is on.

I have checked online and it would need a toggle switch to make it work (with 3 positions, OPEN-OFF-CLOSE. But the stock active exhaust switch seems to be a simple "ON-OFF" with only 2 positions.

Is there a way I can make it work?

http://imageshack.us/a/img838/8429/wj65.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img27/4182/45k7.jpg

[2fnloud]

I have been looking into this and believe that I have found the solution, but NG has prevented me from trying to do anything, perhaps next year.

[chinese]

I have been looking into this and believe that I have found the solution, but NG has prevented me from trying to do anything, perhaps next year.

And... what would be that solution..?

[cjbyron]

I use the Qtech cutoff style. Not sure why you cannot just use position of OPEN or CLOSE. No need for the off position. I use thie actual controller for open close or partial automatic but a plain switch would work with basic unit. It is either ON (open) or OFF (close). Perhaps you have a different style that requires manual intervention to stop or...?

http://cjbyron.com/3000gt/cutout2.jpg

http://cjbyron.com/3000gt/cutout4.jpg

I also have the AEM serial gauges setup so I can have the cutout automatically open depending on boost pressure. This is nice because then you don't have to think about it. If I begin boosting above 18psi then it begins to open and goes 100% open when I start going over 19 or 20ish. Or disable and do manually, either way. I kinda like the auto way though because there's already enough to think about when "spirited" driving. LOL.

Another option might be a 2nd rear wiper switch in the extra position left of existing wiper switch? Those are ON-OFF-ON.

Something to mull over anyway! :)

[BlackStealth]

Open - activates motor in forward direction
Off - motor is off
Close - activates motor in opposite direction

Interfacing that onto a regular On/Off switch will not work. However, if you take a microcontroller you could program it like this:

When the On/Off switch changes position like On, it activates motor in forward direction for XX seconds and stops automatically.
When the switch changes to Off position, it activates motor in reverse direction for XX seconds and stops.

The microcontroller would need two transistors, two diodes, couple resistors, and two relays (to safely simulate the Open position, and Close position), voltage regulator and two capacitors.

[cjbyron]

Ahh I see. So if you don't manually release the switch the motor won't shut off? I did not know that. I use the
http://quicktimeperformance.com/FAQ/Docs/10200_DigitalController.pdf QTP controller.

QTP makes nice controllers. Heck they even make wireless now for less than $100.
http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/Wireless/

Just throwing it out there as info for you Tristan. If you still want only a factory switch then maybe a second rear wiper would work for you as mentioned since it has a on/on with center off.

[Jimvr4]

I'm thinking about cutout options as well. A friend has the DMH electric cutout and it appears it would work with a simple on/off switch. It looks like the QTP has the ability to open up partially to your preference. It looks like the remote control lets you decide how much and preset the amounts. I think I would just want full open or full closed which is what the DMH does. Simple is good!

[R/T93]

I'm thinking about cutout options as well. A friend has the DMH electric cutout and it appears it would work with a simple on/off switch. It looks like the QTP has the ability to open up partially to your preference. It looks like the remote control lets you decide how much and preset the amounts. I think I would just want full open or full closed which is what the DMH does. Simple is good!

Agreed Jim. Depending how quickly it closed or opened it would constantly be opening and shutting.
Mine takes 5-7 seconds to fully open or close. I put it one way or the other.

Also, with it open I was running 2-3 mph faster down the 1/4 than closed. Legit.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

[2fnloud]

And... what would be that solution..?

Sorry I only share my ideas after I do them to assure that they work ;)

[cjbyron]

Agreed Jim. Depending how quickly it closed or opened it would constantly be opening and shutting.
Mine takes 5-7 seconds to fully open or close. I put it one way or the other.

Also, with it open I was running 2-3 mph faster down the 1/4 than closed. Legit.


The QTP does either / or, your option. Your choice. It takes about 2.5-3 seconds for it to open 100% or close back to 0. Pretty fast. When I select auto it opens and closes per the boost settings and is fairly simple. Nothing to hassle with. Or the other switch (100 on/off) of the same controller does it full right away. The stdrd controller has 2 buttons so you can choose your preference. The nice part is you can set it up however you personally want it rather than be restricted to just one way.

I use it on my street car so I am not boosting over 18psi on a regular basis for suto set. But if I want to do manual I just push one button one time and it opens 100%. I don't have to hold a switch or return to off once opened. That's about as simple as you can get. As for opening closing all the time, well yes, when in those boost ranges. Not a problem at all and not even noticeable (lots of things on the car are opening and closing constantly).

[chinese]

Great info here, thanks!
I have seen on an other platform forum also a way to use two buttons to make it work... but would be more convenient to use only one.
I think I will try with a rear wiper switch or the active aero switch, that also seem to have 3 positions.

[Toni]

Depending on how long these things needs to move, you can possibly use the antenna motor controller. If I recall correctly I think it's just a timed motor controller but I haven't looked at one in a while.

[chinese]

Depending on how long these things needs to move, you can possibly use the antenna motor controller. If I recall correctly I think it's just a timed motor controller but I haven't looked at one in a while.

That seems to be a good idea, especially that I shaved the antenna so it is sitting somewhere ^^
I will check different ways and let you know what I finally went with.

[Jimvr4]

What did you finally go with?

[heptone182]

Has anyone ever tried using the active exhaust switch and motor (having aftermarket exhaust) for anything else? I've contemplated this cutout idea as well, but I can't see a benefit to it with an exhaust setup like mine. (Straight pipe Borla and Stillen DP with no cats) I've thought about what integrating a butterfly valve into one of the exhaust pipes and using it in a similar setup to the stock active exhaust but not sure what effects it would really have. For example, back pressure issues. Plus, to shut off one pipe for a quieter exhaust probably wouldn't have much effect without cats anyway. Thoughts?

[Bloodlust182]

I have an idea to create a pneumatic cutout which basically uses a waste gate to push the valve open. So you use a X pound waste gate to operate the valve, then have a electronic valve that opens at say 4500 RPM or can just be turned off all the time via bypass switch. Im going to pitch my idea to Brett when I upgrade to flash ecu to incorporate the signal from the ECU to the electronic valve.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

why don't people just use an external wastegate? You could even run a boost controller on the thing, lol.

I've found them up to 60mm, which is about 2.36 inches. That combined with the normal exhaust should satisfy most setups or run two of them. The advantage is they would open instantly and be extremely easy to control.

[Jimvr4]

I ordered the QTP exhaust cutout as you can see in the pic. The video shows my scheme for using the stock active exhaust switch to open and close the valve. BTW the switch/harness in the car is setup so that when the switch is connected to ground the Tour indicator lights up and when the switch is open circuit the sport mode is engaged. So I suppose that the ECU would have to be able to provide the ground to the circuit in order to be able to release the ground at a given rpm or boost level.

http://jns.jimnshar.com/5e900ab0.jpg

This is an idea I had based on the timed relay design I did for the remote top feature. I was able to re-use the circuit board with minimal changes to get this working.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=v9V_hvvTupo

Anyway, I went to an exhaust shop today with the intention of installing the QTP in the mid pipe, just after the under channel and just before the differential. It's kind of tight there but the Exhaust shop owner with 20 years exp said it would get too hot and risk melting the rubber PS couplers or the underbody wiring when the cutout is opened.

What do you guys think? Is there a way to mount the QTP in the stock exhaust without this risk? Or would I have to go aftermarket exhaust? I prefer to keep the stock exhaust because it's not stupid loud.

[murphys_law]

I ordered the QTP exhaust cutout as you can see in the pic. The video shows my scheme for using the stock active exhaust switch to open and close the valve. BTW the switch/harness in the car is setup so that when the switch is connected to ground the Tour indicator lights up and when the switch is open circuit the sport mode is engaged. So I suppose that the ECU would have to be able to provide the ground to the circuit in order to be able to release the ground at a given rpm or boost level.

http://jns.jimnshar.com/5e900ab0.jpg

This is an idea I had based on the timed relay design I did for the remote top feature. I was able to re-use the circuit board with minimal changes to get this working.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=v9V_hvvTupo

Anyway, I went to an exhaust shop today with the intention of installing the QTP in the mid pipe, just after the under channel and just before the differential. It's kind of tight there but the Exhaust shop owner with 20 years exp said it would get too hot and risk melting the rubber PS couplers or the underbody wiring when the cutout is opened.

What do you guys think? Is there a way to mount the QTP in the stock exhaust without this risk? Or would I have to go aftermarket exhaust? I prefer to keep the stock exhaust because it's not stupid loud.

Out of curiosity did you ever put this to work? I'm interested as my active exhaust valve is toast at the moment and this seemed like a great way to replace it.

[MDoe8]

I am going to have a pair of cutouts on my car as well. I plan on getting an oem looking switch for it. Perhaps a window motor switch from a different car could be made to fit.

Also, there will be no problem with you fitting it to the stock exhaust. Piping is piping.

[Jimvr4]

Out of curiosity did you ever put this to work? I'm interested as my active exhaust valve is toast at the moment and this seemed like a great way to replace it.

Yeah, the exhaust shop was FOS. I found another shop to weld in the cutout over a year ago and it sounds LOUD when opened up but fairly subdued when closed. That is on my car with no cats and a test pipe.

The controller is wired up to the stock switch and I modified the cluster by scraping the soldermask off and adding the bulb to indicate Tour when the switch is grounded. On my 95 the stock wiring between bulb and switch is still in place - basically the tour sport switch just plugs in to the existing harness. On a 96 or later this harness might not be there.

My controller does the rest. Unfortunately it is not as reliable as I want. I can get it to open up but getting it to close again can take many attempts. I am thinking about doing a processor based controller that would read the switch position during a certain amount of time after it senses a state change and then open or close the cutout fully or partially.