Willens
06-07-2013, 09:39 PM
Ok, after the barrage of "is my oil psi ok!?!?" 'threads' I see on FB utilizing the stock oil pressure gauge and sending unit, I felt compelled to pour some baking soda on that fire if I can, since it is absolutely ludicrous that you are trusting the life of your engine to a load-metering piece of shit that is the stock gauge on a car known for low oil pressure and spun bearing issues. If you are modifying a TT, this quite honestly should be mod #1. I'm not going to waste too much time covering the wrench sizes and common sense stuff, because I just shouldn't have to.
What you need:
-An aftermarket Oil Pressure Gauge (they come with a sending unit, I suggest an Auto Meter Electric Sweep for in-cabin use.) DO NOT USE A MECHANICAL GAUGE IN-CABIN, THAT IS A FUCKING FIRE HAZARD AND I SHOULDN'T EVEN HAVE TO POINT THAT OUT.
-A thread adaptor since the stock thread pitch will not work with most, if not all aftermarket oil PSI gauges. You will need Part # 2269 on JEGS Performance Auto Parts - Holley - Billet Specialties - Edelbrock - MSD - Moroso - Mr Gasket (http://www.jegs.com) (I would probably order two, covered below.)
-18 gauge electrical wire
-Various wiring connectors, a wire cutter/sleeve puller.
-Jack stands and basic tools.
-Get the car on a flat and level surface, set the hand brake and disconnect the negative battery cable.
-Loosen lug nuts for Front Driver's Side tire. Jack front end per the FSM and place stands.
-Remove the FDS tire, and timing shroud. It is held on by two bolts on the top, and two at the bottom. Remove it carefully, there is a trick to getting it in and out.
-Remove the underbody shrouds on the front if yours are still on.
-The stock sending unit sits just below and aft of the harmonic balancer. We will be removing the signal to it by simply sliding it's power source off of the bottom.
-Loosen and slowly remove the stock black sending unit. I cannot recall the wrench size required. Oil is going to come out. I let it drain as much as it wanted to for the sake of seeing how much will come out, and it is about 1/8th QT, not a big deal. Top it off when you are done.
-To give you a point of reference, here is a picture of my aftermarket sending unit installed to get an idea of where the stock unit is located:
http://imageshack.us/a/img21/5142/oilpsi1.jpg
---I accidentally ordered a 100psi unit, and the calibrated sending unit is considerably taller than the stock sending unit. It did NOT clear the axle/boot with the already long threaded NPT/BSPT adaptor on it, and thus I had to modify it. This next step may/may not be necessary in your circumstance.---
-Place thread adaptor part 2269 gently in a vice, as you are going to have to saw off about 1/3 inch of it. This is simply a hollow adaptor, so you could quite honestly cut quite a bit as long as there is still thread and cover for the sending unit going in.
-BE VERY CAREFUL to take a fine toothed saw, this is brass and you WILL have to get the cut straight and true, as much as possible. This is why I suggested ordering two, as I did not but might have had to. Saw off about 1/3 inch of the threading end. File carefully, and inspect the thread to make sure you did not botch it. I luckily got it one and done. Clean it for shavings.
-With the new calibrated sending unit and adaptor in place, loosen and then finger tighten the retaining nut for where you will be running wire to the new unit. Should be a 9 or 10mm if I recall.
-This took me about 5 minutes to get the thread to catch JUST RIGHT. Hand thread one revolution and then tighten to spec. Getting that adaptor/housing in was somewhat tedious, room was non-existent in my case, clearance was tight, and I had modified brass thread.
[I]I ran my wire from the new calibrated housing along the Driver Side up through the firewall grommet by the brake and gas pedals, then ran the line up behind the center console area up and over the ECU department into the cabin. Zip-tie to retain where necessary, common sense comes into play here. Here is where I routed under-hood, sorry if the pic isn't Glamour Shots quality, it's the best I can offer. You'll see it about where the NPT hose is by the AC line:
http://imageshack.us/a/img843/9108/oilpsi2.jpg
*Follow your wiring diagram that should come with whatever gauge you order. Make sure you utilize proper grounds, remove any paint on the metal if applicable when grounding to chassis. Use 400 grit sand paper to prep the grounding surface. Run the power source to whatever power source you desire, I'd suggest one that is only receiving power while the headlights are on*
Mine installed, pardon the mess. I have a 3 gauge plate for the center console, so your mounting/installation point may vary. There are a few threads on installing them where the factory gauges reside, search for one and follow it if you like:
http://imageshack.us/a/img24/2843/oilpsi3.jpg
I'm installing a few others, and I had just finished routing some wires for my data logging boost control setup, plus I have a stereo to wire so again, my apologies.
http://imageshack.us/a/img507/1326/oilpsi4.jpg
Put the car back together as necessary, depending on where you ran your gauge to. Make sure your connections are soldered and heat-shrinked properly, at least I would suggest that you do...
Don't forget to re-tighten the lug nuts, drive around the block, and then re-check torque and torque as necessary!
Thanks To:
Wingnutt for getting me the part number on that adaptor!
---I forgot to mention... use teflon tape between the threads for the sending unit and the adaptor, and on the adaptor as well---
What you need:
-An aftermarket Oil Pressure Gauge (they come with a sending unit, I suggest an Auto Meter Electric Sweep for in-cabin use.) DO NOT USE A MECHANICAL GAUGE IN-CABIN, THAT IS A FUCKING FIRE HAZARD AND I SHOULDN'T EVEN HAVE TO POINT THAT OUT.
-A thread adaptor since the stock thread pitch will not work with most, if not all aftermarket oil PSI gauges. You will need Part # 2269 on JEGS Performance Auto Parts - Holley - Billet Specialties - Edelbrock - MSD - Moroso - Mr Gasket (http://www.jegs.com) (I would probably order two, covered below.)
-18 gauge electrical wire
-Various wiring connectors, a wire cutter/sleeve puller.
-Jack stands and basic tools.
-Get the car on a flat and level surface, set the hand brake and disconnect the negative battery cable.
-Loosen lug nuts for Front Driver's Side tire. Jack front end per the FSM and place stands.
-Remove the FDS tire, and timing shroud. It is held on by two bolts on the top, and two at the bottom. Remove it carefully, there is a trick to getting it in and out.
-Remove the underbody shrouds on the front if yours are still on.
-The stock sending unit sits just below and aft of the harmonic balancer. We will be removing the signal to it by simply sliding it's power source off of the bottom.
-Loosen and slowly remove the stock black sending unit. I cannot recall the wrench size required. Oil is going to come out. I let it drain as much as it wanted to for the sake of seeing how much will come out, and it is about 1/8th QT, not a big deal. Top it off when you are done.
-To give you a point of reference, here is a picture of my aftermarket sending unit installed to get an idea of where the stock unit is located:
http://imageshack.us/a/img21/5142/oilpsi1.jpg
---I accidentally ordered a 100psi unit, and the calibrated sending unit is considerably taller than the stock sending unit. It did NOT clear the axle/boot with the already long threaded NPT/BSPT adaptor on it, and thus I had to modify it. This next step may/may not be necessary in your circumstance.---
-Place thread adaptor part 2269 gently in a vice, as you are going to have to saw off about 1/3 inch of it. This is simply a hollow adaptor, so you could quite honestly cut quite a bit as long as there is still thread and cover for the sending unit going in.
-BE VERY CAREFUL to take a fine toothed saw, this is brass and you WILL have to get the cut straight and true, as much as possible. This is why I suggested ordering two, as I did not but might have had to. Saw off about 1/3 inch of the threading end. File carefully, and inspect the thread to make sure you did not botch it. I luckily got it one and done. Clean it for shavings.
-With the new calibrated sending unit and adaptor in place, loosen and then finger tighten the retaining nut for where you will be running wire to the new unit. Should be a 9 or 10mm if I recall.
-This took me about 5 minutes to get the thread to catch JUST RIGHT. Hand thread one revolution and then tighten to spec. Getting that adaptor/housing in was somewhat tedious, room was non-existent in my case, clearance was tight, and I had modified brass thread.
[I]I ran my wire from the new calibrated housing along the Driver Side up through the firewall grommet by the brake and gas pedals, then ran the line up behind the center console area up and over the ECU department into the cabin. Zip-tie to retain where necessary, common sense comes into play here. Here is where I routed under-hood, sorry if the pic isn't Glamour Shots quality, it's the best I can offer. You'll see it about where the NPT hose is by the AC line:
http://imageshack.us/a/img843/9108/oilpsi2.jpg
*Follow your wiring diagram that should come with whatever gauge you order. Make sure you utilize proper grounds, remove any paint on the metal if applicable when grounding to chassis. Use 400 grit sand paper to prep the grounding surface. Run the power source to whatever power source you desire, I'd suggest one that is only receiving power while the headlights are on*
Mine installed, pardon the mess. I have a 3 gauge plate for the center console, so your mounting/installation point may vary. There are a few threads on installing them where the factory gauges reside, search for one and follow it if you like:
http://imageshack.us/a/img24/2843/oilpsi3.jpg
I'm installing a few others, and I had just finished routing some wires for my data logging boost control setup, plus I have a stereo to wire so again, my apologies.
http://imageshack.us/a/img507/1326/oilpsi4.jpg
Put the car back together as necessary, depending on where you ran your gauge to. Make sure your connections are soldered and heat-shrinked properly, at least I would suggest that you do...
Don't forget to re-tighten the lug nuts, drive around the block, and then re-check torque and torque as necessary!
Thanks To:
Wingnutt for getting me the part number on that adaptor!
---I forgot to mention... use teflon tape between the threads for the sending unit and the adaptor, and on the adaptor as well---