I hate rust.....help !!!

[DaSerb]

The car has developed rust spots on both sides where rear bumper and rear fenders meet. I am not sure why there, but I need help how to tackle this.

I thinking about getting some black paint, sandpaper and rubbing compound and see if it works.

Any help is appreciated.


5440 5441

[Street_Chally73]

To do the job correctly & ensure that no more rust will show through, you would really need to remove the rear bumper cover so you can tackle ALL of the rust.

Once you have the bumper cover off, I would mask off an area around the rusted spot, giving yourself about half an inch to an inch of space into the clean metal. Then I would get a small spot blaster along with some soda media (sand will warp your metal there, so that's out of the question) and carefully knock off all of the rust that you can see with the gravity-fed spot blaster.

Then, you should get some U-Pol Acid #8 (IIRC) self-etching primer (best stuff from an aerosol), spray several light coats over the freshly soda-blasted area. Next, block it down some with some fine waterproof sandpaper (600, 800, & 1,000 or so) & have a squirt bottle of soapy water to use as a lubricant (after it's had a chance to dry).

The next step would be to get an aerosol can made up at the local auto body supply shop and here you can either go with a single-stage paint (clear is built into it) OR you could see if they could get a two-stage can of OEM-coded black made up for you. That way, you would just have to use some U-POL clear afterwards (what I would personally do) to bury the fresh paint in however many thin, evenly-laid coats you would like (so it could be lightly sanded & buffed once it has had time to dry.

Ideally, you would also want to make sure that the back side of the quarter isn't affected by any rust as well. Otherwise, it could potentially continue to rust its way though into what you just fixed.

I've done the rust converter way before after knocking off the scaled rust, but I had to keep chasing it each year & finally just let it go as the car wasn't worth doing it the proper way at this point.

Hope this helps you out!


Sent from the garage

[Ange]

nvm street_chally had a better answer

[DaSerb]

Thank you....that shouldn't be that hard once I get the bumper off. I will have to do same thing with the fenders (w/out taking them off).


To do the job correctly & ensure that no more rust will show through, you would really need to remove the rear bumper cover so you can tackle ALL of the rust.

Once you have the bumper cover off, I would mask off an area around the rusted spot, giving yourself about half an inch to an inch of space into the clean metal. Then I would get a small spot blaster along with some soda media (sand will warp your metal there, so that's out of the question) and carefully knock off all of the rust that you can see with the gravity-fed spot blaster.

Then, you should get some U-Pol Acid #8 (IIRC) self-etching primer (best stuff from an aerosol), spray several light coats over the freshly soda-blasted area. Next, block it down some with some fine waterproof sandpaper (600, 800, & 1,000 or so) & have a squirt bottle of soapy water to use as a lubricant (after it's had a chance to dry).

The next step would be to get an aerosol can made up at the local auto body supply shop and here you can either go with a single-stage paint (clear is built into it) OR you could see if they could get a two-stage can of OEM-coded black made up for you. That way, you would just have to use some U-POL clear afterwards (what I would personally do) to bury the fresh paint in however many thin, evenly-laid coats you would like (so it could be lightly sanded & buffed once it has had time to dry.

Ideally, you would also want to make sure that the back side of the quarter isn't affected by any rust as well. Otherwise, it could potentially continue to rust its way though into what you just fixed.

I've done the rust converter way before after knocking off the scaled rust, but I had to keep chasing it each year & finally just let it go as the car wasn't worth doing it the proper way at this point.

Hope this helps you out!


Sent from the garage

[Ange]

just wanted to say that where you remove rust there will be an indent in the metal. also with rust it's usually deeper than you think because rust creates pores which can go quite deep.

so if you are anal about it you'd want to use either epoxi or led to fill where there is lost metall.