Trying to add v2

[fridayda13th]

Well first I got the message: "WARNING: failed to erase page at 0002C000". I changed the memmodel to H8539fa in the XML.
But now I can't get ecuflash to read the rom, It just says unknown rom abort. Do I have to change the rom if I changed the memmodel to H8539fa in the XML?

[ChargerX3]

No bueno.

[fridayda13th]

What's wrong???? I should have went to your house so you could help me lol. Did I brick my ecu? I dont think its the ecu I can't get the ecuflash to load the rom

[fridayda13th]

Sure as shit I opened it up and bam, MH7202f. The extra rare POS Chip lol. Guess I have to get this fixed.

[Greg E]

MH7202f is the correct processor. MH7202fa is the one you don't want.

Did you hook up a battery tender?

[fridayda13th]

Yes I did have battery tender, it got to 43% then said "WARNING: failed to erase page at 0002C000. I tried to put the V1 I had on there and it said the same thing. If I bricked I don't know how my voltage never dipped at all.

[Greg E]

Is the battery tender just a charger that puts out only 12 volts? If so that's the problem right there, voltage isn't high enough. A car charger selected at maximum setting (jump start) will provide ~15.5 volts. See the 2.0 cable puts a lot of draw on the battery in order to boost the voltage to 16v for the flash memory. While most batteries have no issue with this, it does happen during very long flashes where the battery can't keep a charge.

You'll see this if you ever try to flash an NA. The battery voltage steadily drops from 12 to as low as 10 on the stock voltage gauge! Then after the flash is done, it'll jump most of the way back to 12v. Pretty scary.

[fridayda13th]

Well yes I saw 11.77 the whole time no dip or nothing. What should I do? Do you think I bricked it?

[Greg E]

Yep.56

[fridayda13th]

Damn who can fix this for me? Would you say leaving the car on to flash it would be the safest way to do it

[TurboSinceBirth]

Ouch that sucks. I will have keep in mind to make sure to switch chargers. The one I keep next to my car is only 6 amp. The other at the shop has a 40 amp start setting.

[fridayda13th]

So who can a bricked ecu?

[ChargerX3]

What's wrong???? I should have went to your house so you could help me lol. Did I brick my ecu? I dont think its the ecu I can't get the ecuflash to load the rom

We can try to flash it again but it will probably take Brett or jester to repair the surface mount. Brett will like playing with your sl ecu anyways.

[99 vr4]

PM sent

[futurevr4man]

im going to ask the question again because it was not answered...

is the smartest way to flash, to leave the car on? i flashed it fine the first time without the car running, but i do NOT want to brick an ecu

[99 vr4]

Actually if the car is running, it will shutdown as soon as the flash starts. That is how I usually flash mine. I also run the car to warm it up and top off the battery before flashing... And I have a new red top battery to boot.

It's more important too have a good battery with a lot of reserve or a good charger hooked up.

[Greg E]

is the smartest way to flash, to leave the car on? i flashed it fine the first time without the car running, but i do NOT want to brick an ecu

I do that when I'm feeling too lazy to get the battery tender and I know it's going to be a long flash. Long in this instance meaning > 5 seconds. Hasn't caused a problem but I'd never recommend anyone do it.

ECUFlash only changes the memory ranges that are different from the previous flash. Guys are bricking ECUs because there are so many changes between a stock ROM and Chrome V2 that it can take as long as 15 seconds for a complete flash. The battery can't handle the draw from the tactrix cable for that long and the flash becomes corrupted.

While you're out tuning, you're typically only changing one or two values in a table so that flash only takes a few seconds. Very little chance you'll brick your ECU. I never use a tender while tuning. Only the initial flash of Chrome (or when beta testing new ROMs).

ECUFlash has a cool feature called "test write" where you can get an accurate gauge on how long your flash is going to take. If it takes a while to test write, then it's safe to assume you should get the tender for the real flash.

Something that has worked for me in the past to "unbrick" an ECU is to grab other ROMs and flash it over and over. I'll jump between the various stock ROMs I got, old tunes, old betas.... Just randomly flashing very different ROMs. It's actually worked 3 out of 5 times now where for some reason the ECU comes back to life somehow. In fact the ECU in my 98 VR4 has bricked and un-bricked 2x now.

I don't want to create any false sense of hope but it is something you can try if you ever get stuck in a parking lot somewhere doing a flash.

[futurevr4man]

interesting. and good info. thanks greg

[fridayda13th]

Very interesting. What battery tender are you guys using?

[BlackStealth]

Use a car charger on the highest setting (in my case that is about 15 volts). When I flashed my bench ECU from stock to Chrome 2.0 I think it was about 40-45 seconds.

[dyter]

Hi,

I have the same problem, erase error at 001C000, my ecu seems reaches his writing cycle because I flash it over 200 times !
So I decided to take my ECU in freezer 15 minutes, and flash goes OK ! But now I don't want to risk of a new flash without a change of the MH7202F.

If I change this chip, I would just need to reflash with ecuflash for it working again ? It a simple plug&play chip or I need to write a bootloader or something of this ?

Thanks

[Jesters Deadd]

I will have to try this freezer trick...
maybe an amputated rabbit's foot will also help...

[CoopKill]

LOL! :lmao: