Slightly tweaked 3000GT TT

[Unlogic]

Thanks Jim!

[Unlogic]

I've been doing some thinking about how to wire up my fuel pump for maximum voltage with minimal damage to the stock harness. If I'd still have my battery in the engine bay I would have used Jim's method. But since I have my battery located behind the rear seats I came to the conclusion that a hot wire with the relay placed right by my battery would probably be the simplest and most effective method. This way the cable between the pump and battery is less than a meter long.

I started by removing the fuel pump relay, holder and resistor.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140725_224106.jpg

Then I bypassed the stock relay and resistor as described on Stealth316.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140725_222512.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140725_222553.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140725_223850.jpg

I found this neat 40A relay with a built in fuse holder that I mounted next to the kill switch on my battery tray behind the rear seats.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140725_233838.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140726_144251.jpg

I then cut the cable going to the fuel pump and used the stock wire as a trigger for the relay. To make sure moisture didn't ruin these connections since this area is exposed to the outside I soldered them and wrapped them in heat shrink tubing.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140726_154547.jpg

While I was at it I also replaced the fuel filter, it looked like it had never been replaced before and the fittings were a nightmare to loosen from the old filter.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140725_150859.jpg

With all this done I pressure tested my intercooler pipes to make sure that I don't have any leaks before I start putting more time into mapping my car.

My AEM fuel pressure regulator smells of fuel each time a turn off the car. I'm going to contact 3SX and/or AEM to see if I can get a replacement cause I'm not confident that mine is sealing properly since the house isn't as flat as it should be.

[Ange]

Nice writeup. I need to do the hotwire too. Waiting for an ebay relay to arrive. Didn't know Biltema had those!

[Unlogic]

My summer vacation is over so I haven't been able to spend much time on the car lately. However I'm starting to get the hang of EcuFlash and EvoScan. When looking at the EvoScan logs for the first time it feels like the Matrix, lots of digits that don't say anything until you break the ice and "see the code".

I still have some hesitation/bucking at very low loads that I'll have to try and figure out how to cure but apart from that the car drives like stock now. By tweaking the VE table my trims and AFR values are really getting in the ballpark now.

Here is a diagram of a 3rd gear pull.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/diagram1.png

I still haven't touched the boost tables in the ECU and you can clearly see the spike early in the boost curve above which is when I hit 3000 rpm and the ECU starts pulling back the duty cycle of the boost solenoid. I'm gonna have to try and smooth that curve out a bit when I start upping the boost because currently it feels almost like driving into a wall.

My fuel pressure regulator is still smelling of fuel so I've worked out a deal with 3SX and I'll be switching to a Fuellab FPR instead of the AEM one.

[Bloodlust182]

Your thread is always a pleasant read with the pictures. Good info about the AEM FPR, was going to get one but now I think I will just get a fuellab one!

[Unlogic]

Since my last post in this thread I've driven the car close 3000 km. 2500 of those were to the annual Swedish 3000GT meet which was arranged in Karlskrona this year.

http://www.emmabodaflygbana.se/images/superstageBild.jpg

We try to do some form of racing each year and this year Jens (the_kid) had arranged for use to drive superstage on the Emmaboda airfield. It was by far the greatest racing experience I've had in this car. The cones where spaced 50 meters apart in the first section and 75 meters in the second so this was no slow track. Speeds topped around 200 km/h and my SCE center diff really got to work during the high speed cornering.

My car worked great and I managed to set the fastest time of the day however most the cars attending ended being within just a few seconds of each other so it was a close call.

However there was a few issues I felt that I felt needed to be fixed. The stock crank case ventilation didn't really cut it as I approached 18 psi. My Chrome ECU didn't like my open Forge dual piston BOV (my 1996 stock ECU was much less sensitive to this). Then there was my leaking AEM fuel pressure regulator...

To remedy these issues I bought a recirculating Synapse Synchronic DV BOV, a set of crank vents and a Fuelab FPR:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140903_230732.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140904_235228.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140903_230825.jpg

I didn't want to mount the BOV in the stock location so I bought some aluminum pipe and silicon hoses so that I could mount it by the y-pipe where my Forge BOV had been mounted.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140905_001302.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140906_223242.jpg

Made a simple bracket so that I could mount the FPR in the stock battery location.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140906_223139.jpg

Forge dual piston BOV next to the Synapse Synchronic DV.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140906_232708.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140906_232753.jpg

New BOV mounted.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140906_232646.jpg

The stock rubber hoses for the crank case ventilation were rock solid so I ended up replacing all of them with silicone hoses instead.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140906_232833.jpg

Krank vents mounted. Used the stock hose routing for now but if this doesn't provide enough flow I have a Green lantern inspired plan B which should increase the flow a bit.

[VR4GUY]

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140906_232833.jpg

Krank vents mounted. Used the stock hose routing for now but if this doesn't provide enough flow I have a Green lantern inspired plan B which should increase the flow a bit.

You will want to replace the silicone tubing for the pcv system with something else as silicone will degrade from the oil and will eventually tear.

[Unlogic]

Thanks for the heads up, I wasn't aware of that.

[Unlogic]

Changed my crankcase ventilation to increase the flow in order to stop my oil filler cap from leaking (that hose is vented to atmosphere):

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140920_214825.jpg

However it didn't change a thing as the oil filler cap leaks just as much as before. I suspect the seal in my oil filler cap must have seen better days so I ordered a new aluminum filler cap. We'll see what gives.

The recirculating Synapse bov I installed has worked great, driving is much smoother now and the trims don't get messed up like they would with my open bov. If anyone else wants to mount a recirculating bov up by the y-pipe you can make a pipe with this shape and it will fit stock intake bubble perfectly (forgot to mention that in my previous post).

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140907_133656.jpg

[Mit3000gt]

Hi.
Really interesting thread you have made with good pictures and some tips. I must say that you are really skilled
I also have to rebuild my throttle body , where did you buy the seals ? I will try Funrunracing.

I also comes from sweden , so I'll do it myself.

[Unlogic]

Thanks, I bought my seals here:

STM: THROTTLE BODY SHAFT SEALS | EVO VIII-IX | 91-99 DSM | 91-99 3000GT (http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/stm_evo_dsm_3000gt_throttle_body_seals.htm)

[Mit3000gt]

Super, and thanks for info.

[Unlogic]

I took two months for the billet aluminum oil filler cap I ordered from a Chinese seller on eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/130877451754?_trksid=p2060778.m2748.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) to arrive. I was convinced that it has been lost in transit so I asked for a refund and ordered another one from eBay but this time from a seller in the US (http://www.ebay.com/itm/350202847600?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT). I the end I got two oil filler caps delivered on the same day.

The reason why I'm writing this post is because is because the oil cap from china turned out to be a badly designed and potentially dangerous product.

Here is a photo of my stock cap next to the two aluminum ones:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20141108_160114.jpg

The silver cap is the one from the US seller and black one is from the Chinese seller. The small bolt you see laying in the gasket is the one that came with the black cap for holding the spring/clip to the cap. The bolt was very loose and it had no thread sealant or other mechanism to prevent the nut from coming loosing and falling into the timing cover. Before I even tried the cap I replaced this bolt with a M6 bolt and a locking nut.

The next thing I noticed was that the black cap had a much lower center section as you can see below.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20141108_160228.jpg

This equals more clamping pressure on the seal which I thought might be a good thing but this is what happened when tightened the cap...

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20141108_160549.jpg

The clip permanently bent and the cap became very loose. So if your looking for a new oil filler avoid that model. It's available on eBay in multiple colors and with various stickers on it.

The silver cap on the other hand worked just fine and sealed properly during my test drive. It also had physical "dent" on the bolt/nut holding the clip to prevent it from coming loose.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20141108_161008.jpg

The reason why my stock oil filler cap was leaking was because it had become warped which explains why it leaked so badly even though the gasket was fine.

[CoopKill]

The Ralliart cap I bought did not seal due to the weak tabs bolted to it. After buying 3 different brands one from different places they all have the same weak tabs. I have been meaning to make that tab peice for the CF look one I have, but have not got around to it.

[Ange]

I have one of those china caps. Seals well for me and didn't get bent. But I'll replace that nut with a locking one for sure didn't even Think about that potentially falling down there.

[green-lantern]

Changed my crankcase ventilation to increase the flow in order to stop my oil filler cap from leaking (that hose is vented to atmosphere):

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20140920_214825.jpg



That looks a bit familiar

[Unlogic]

I have no idea what your talking about :Innocent:


Okay maybe I do...


Krank vents mounted. Used the stock hose routing for now but if this doesn't provide enough flow I have a Green lantern inspired plan B which should increase the flow a bit. (http://www.3sgto.org/3000gt-stealth-gto-related-topics/10823-slightly-tweaked-3000gt-tt-26.html#post295544)

[Unlogic]

I had to add some mounting points for another child safety seat in one of my Volvos today which gave me an excuse to drive the 3000GT out the garage for the first time in almost 3 months.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTQEldXlCDc

The rear wheel bias of the SCE torsen center differential really shows. Even though I was driving with summer tires on compact snow there was essentially no understeer at all. If the roundabout outside of my garage had been a bit bigger, I could have kept on sliding about all day long :)

http://pics.unlogic.se/smilies/smiley_driving.gif

[Unlogic]

Fitted a new timing belt and water pump today.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150406_021009.jpg

The gasket in lower part of the timing cover was all rotten and has pieces missing so I removed it and made a new one out of silicone.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150405_212759.jpg

Fitted new superpro bushings for the front sway bar. I was surprised to see how worn the old ones were. I could move the sway bar inside the old bushings by hand.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150406_002242.jpg

[Unlogic]

I got a few hours in the garage yesterday so I replaced my front lifters. The Redline oil I have been using for the past 8 years seems to be working fine becuase everything looked very nice and clean underneath the valve cover.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150523_105331.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150523_105556.jpg

Everything went smoothly except this... some previous owner had sealed that valve cover gasket using some kind of sealant which hardened to hard glue like substance. However put it on had used plenty of it too because is was everywhere.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150523_110037.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150523_110227.jpg

It was almost impossible to properly remove the old hard sealant so I had to use a some of permatex black on my new gasket i order to ensure a good seal.

Upon first startup the lifters where really noisy (as expected) but within 15 minutes or so they quited down and the front cylinder bank became noticeable quieter compared to the rear bank.

The lifters on the rear cylinder bank will be a task for another day.

[Unlogic]

Got a set of billet 15G turbos from Tim Park (Boostmore) in the mail today. From the looks of it they seem very nice.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_7021.JPG

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_7023.JPG

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_7025.JPG

I'm busy doing some renovation work here at home so it may take a week or two before I have time to install them but I'll report back with some results when I have installed them.

[CoopKill]

Do yourself a favor and remove the red plugs asap! :suspect:

[Unlogic]

Thanks coop I'll make a mental reminder regarding that :)

[mehrshadvr4]

Interesting to see how the car behaved with new center diff. I would guess you'll get stuck easier in snow with that in place? it seems like rear wheels spin and front wheels didn't get much power.

[Unlogic]

Yes in snow the increased transfer of torque to the rear wheels of the SCE diff probably hampers traction a bit. However on a tarmac track it's a completely different story.

I've bought myself an action cam so I'll try record some of my runs on various tracks this year.

[mehrshadvr4]

Yes it'll run better for sure on track. I wish there was someone do dyno pulls before and after the center diff and see if the car looses power since more power goes to rear.

[Unlogic]

Finally got time to install my new turbos this week. To be sure I did everything right I ordered new original gaskets, coppers rings etc from Ninja performance and set to work.

The front turbo install went smoothly. I managed to remove all of the old nuts without any studs snapping. When I installed the new turbos I realized that it was missing a stud but luckily I had a new spare laying around.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_7056.JPG

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_7065.JPG

I managed to remove the rear turbo too without snapping any studs. However when I removed my old turbo and compared it to the new one i realized that it was missing two studs where the turbo meets the manifold and that one stud for pre-cat had bad threads. I tried to remove some studs from my olds turbos but that was a futile effort which would have resulted in carnage so I quickly gave up on that. Since I had no more spares I had to find a company that carried these oddly threaded studs locally which delayed the install 3 days.

Missing studs:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150712_013715.jpg

When I finally got the new studs I noticed that the flange on my rear pre cat eliminator wasn't straight and needed to be flattened in order to get a good seal. Found a local company that did the job for a good price but that delayed me another day.

The flange in question before being flattened:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150712_022032.jpg

After being flattened:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/file.jpg

When I finally got everything back together I let the car heat up while I had it on the lift so I could check for any leaks. Found no leaks so I took it for a drive without the front active aero installed in order to spot any potential leaks easier. So far everything seems to be working fine. The impression I got from the short drive is that the turbos spool slightly later than my stock 11b's but that they reach full boost about the same time.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150715_190253.jpg

My Z06 MAF finally showed up today so I'm planing to install it tonight and give it a try. Hopefully it doesn't mess up my values in Chrome to much.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150715_190550.jpg

The Swedish national 3/S gathering is in two days so if the Z06 MAF/MAFT requires to much fiddling to get dialed in I might swap back to the EVO MAF just for the weekend.

[Unlogic]

Installed the new MAF today and adjusted my MAP accordingly today (I'll post more about the tuning in my chrome tuning thread (http://www.3sgto.org/tuning-engine-electronics-ecu-discussions/14570-unlogics-chrome-ecu-tuning-thread.html)).

I wanted to keep using my K&N RF-1021 airfilter which has an ID of 4,5" instead of the 4" required for the Z06 MAF so I made a rubber ring from a sewage pipe adapter that I found at a local hardware store. This worked out very nice and made a pretty tight seal when clamped down.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150716_132948.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150716_134706.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150716_135350.jpg

When it came to mounting the MAFT box I wanted to mount in a way which enabled me to remove it easily in case I decided to switch back to the EVO MAF or stock MAF. So I cut a piece of plexiglass (perspex) and then heated it up and shaped it after the metal by the air filter. I used one of the mounting holes for stock airbox to fasten the plexiglass and put some foam tape on the underside of it to prevent vibrations. I then fastened the MAFT using adhesive tape to the plexiglass.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150716_213417.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150716_214402.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150716_215844.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150716_220708.jpg

[Unlogic]

The new turbos and MAF are working really well. I drove around 1000 km's this weekend including some really great track driving at the annual Swedish 3000GT club meet. The new turbos pull nicely all the way to redline which I found very pleasant and it helped a lot on the track since I didn't have to shift as often as before. Also the added power was very welcome.

For this years annual club meet here in Sweden we rented an airfield just like last year and rigged a high speed autocross course. During the first hours we had pouring rain but towards the afternoon the weather cleared and we got some really clean runs in dry conditions.

Here are two videos, the first one in wet conditions (with a nice spinout around 1:10) and one from later in the day with dry conditions:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhX2cXGoi-c


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_l3I19Bp84

In these videos I'm running a boost of between 1.0 and 1.1 bar and that felt more than enough for the track in question.

[Ange]

Nice! Cool vids. Maybe next time for me. My car isn't up to par right now.

[lawdogg]

Sounds great! And that event looks like a blast!

[VR4GUY]

looks like fun! I need to find an autocross like that here lol.

[Unlogic]

Took a little trip to the local racing circuit today. I took it quite easy and stayed in 3rd gear most of the time since I flashed a new tune this morning that I wanted to test. The tune worked fine but after 3 laps my front tyres (cheapo Falken FK452) overheated and it felt like they were made out of cheese. I have to get myself a better set of tyres next year.

This is how my front tyres looked afterwards, not a pretty sight.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150729_223210.jpg

Here is a video from the track:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wD5si1xb5Fg&feature=youtu.be

I'm running 100% duty cycle on the stock boost solenoid now and it only gives me 15-16 psi so it looks like I'll have to get another type of solenoid or stiffer wastegates springs.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

The stiffer springs wont help, tried that.

[R/T93]

If you don't have any negative camber dialed in you will lose your grip pretty early. Add a couple degrees and you could probably race for more laps continously.

[green-lantern]

This is how my front tyres looked afterwards, not a pretty sight.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150729_223210.jpg



I keep looking at this and that track that has a lot of rubber on it and I can't help but wonder if you picked up most of that coming off the track or just sticky tires picking up the marbles (loose rubber) because it does have so much rubber on the track. Maybe it's just hard to keep them clean on that track after the tires heat up? Looking at the sidewalls I'd think low pressure or not enough camber. I'm no pro what so ever, just my thoughts though.

like this

As the rubber heats up and becomes stickier, it picks up anything it runs over, and even something as small as dust will affect the grip of the tire.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q5/wonderduckspond/cleandirty4.jpg

Wonderduck's Pond (http://wonderduck.mu.nu/clean_vs_dirty)

[Jimvr4]

The stiffer springs wont help, tried that.

How did you set them up? I'm running stiffer springs and I've got more boost than I can handle right now :confused:

[Unlogic]

Thanks guys. I'm running stock camber, some cheapo Falken tires and the track was covered in rubber from the drifting sessions that alternate with the racing sessions so it was probably a combination of all factors you mention.

Since I don't have any camber plates fitted it's currently a pain to change the camber. But I'm planing to change that next year.

First priority now is to raise the boost http://pics.unlogic.se/smilies/smiley_driving.gif

Very interesting article about the marbles btw!

[Unlogic]

I ordered this boost solenoid:

Tactrix 3-Port Boost Control Solenoid (http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=20&Itemid=53)

I'll report on how it works when it arrives.

[Chris@Rvengeperformance]

How did you set them up? I'm running stiffer springs and I've got more boost than I can handle right now :confused:

With the 100% stock boost control system and 12 lb springs I couldn't get over about 17 PSI. Installed a MBC and instantly 25+ was available.

[Unlogic]

If you don't have any negative camber dialed in you will lose your grip pretty early. Add a couple degrees and you could probably race for more laps continously.

How much camber you run and how much does it affect tire wear during normal driving?

[R/T93]

I got 13k from a set of 200 Treadwear dunlop with -1.4 up front and -2.4 out back with a little bit of toe.
Three track days and 5 autocross on them, too. Yes it wears tires out faster but the car handles sooo much better with a good alignment.

[Unlogic]

13k doesn't sound bad at all, I'll defiantly have to increase my camber. Now I just have to make up my mind if I should stick with the ECS suspension or get myself a set of Öhlins coilovers

[Unlogic]

Installed the Tactrix solenoid today in "blocking mode". It came with a cable suited for EVO's I think cause it didn't fit the connector in our cars so I chopped it off and added two simple spade connectors for now.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150805_200639.jpg

Removed the stock boost solenoid and the 4-way plastic thingy and replaced it an ordinary T-coupling since the block setup requires one less hose on the wastegate side.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150805_195354.jpg

I decided to install the new solenoid in the stock location on the stock rubber dampened bracket to reduce noise. I inserted a bolt in the slot where the stock solenoid used to sit and tightened it with a nut before I attached the new solenoid and another nut to keep it clamped down.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150805_203621.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150805_204552.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20150805_205745.jpg

Did some testing and the new solenoid definitely is an improvement over the stock one. I'll post more results in my tuning thread later today.

[Unlogic]

I've been very busy at work this autumn so I haven't had much time to work on the car. However I've got a few things planned for this winter and I started on the first one today, a custom rear diffuser.

I know that there are a few diffusers available on the market for our cars but I didn't like them for one reason or another. I want a diffuser the is both functional and looks good and I found this picture on the interwebs which looks similar to the result I'm after:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/diffuser.jpg

My plan is to build the diffuser from Divinycell (http://www.diabgroup.com/Products-and-services/Core-Material/Divinycell-HT) (an as aeroplane grade core/foam material) wrapped in epoxy and fiberglass. This is the first time I'm working with Divinycell so bought 3 different types boards so I could experiment a bit.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20151231_111109.jpg

The solid boards are 1,5 cm and 1 cm thick. The green board is 1 cm thick and precut into squares that are glued onto a fiberglass weave so the board can bend/flex.

Next up I started doing some research and the optimal angle for a rear diffuser seems to be 12° degrees (more info on this subject is available here with further animations (http://consultkeithyoung.com/content/cfd-bluff-body-diffuser-angle)).

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/diffuser-angle.png

http://www.consultkeithyoung.com/media/pics/CFD/Diff_Ang/Bluff_Body_Diffuser_Angle_Midplane_Velocity.gif

Based on this information I did some measurements on the car and the angle from the bottom the fuel tank to the bottom the 2g rear bumper is only about 7°.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20151231_104809.jpg

To be sure I made a cardboard template and attached it to the car in order to be able to get some real world measurements. The produced angle was very small as you can see:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20151231_121030.jpg

The bottom part of the rear bumper is about 7cm high and removing it makes it possible to create an angle of up to 14°.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20151231_111216.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20151231_105122.jpg

So it was time to start chopping, out comes the power tools:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20151231_122827.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20151231_123619.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20151231_131655.jpg

Removing that bottom part gave the rear bumper a more clean look in my opinion. Lets hope it will look just as clean with my diffuser in place.

I reinstalled the cardboard template and as expected got a much better angle on it now.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20151231_132720.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20151231_132650.jpg

Based on that I proceeded by transferring the cardboard template onto the a Divinycell sheet (they are expensive so I'll be making cardboard templates of all parts first).

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20151231_140455.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20151231_141853.jpg

[Unlogic]

The cut out Divinycell sheet on the car, producing a nice smooth and progressively increasing angle.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20151231_143452.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20151231_143425.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20151231_143447.jpg

Next step will be to create the fins but that's a task for tomorrow.

[anyonebutme]

You don't want a progressive angle, but a sharp edge to start the diffuser. Not that it really matters with an open bottom.

[Unlogic]

Thanks for the input!

Do you have any information/links on the subject?

Many of the examples and simulations I found online seem to use a proggesive angle. I simply assumbled it was to prevent airflow separation.

http://www.racecar-engineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/Diffuser-Flow.jpg

[drew0u812]

Am no aerodynamicist, but a sharp angle would definitely cause airflow separation and reduce the diffusers effectiveness.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[AdamVR4]

How do you plan to keep that progressive radius as you apply fiberglass? Does the foam hold this shape when you remove it from the car? And yeah, the 2g rear bumper was made for this :)

[Unlogic]

My plan is to glue the fins on using a small amount of epoxy while I have everything on the car. That way the fins will hold the shape of the sheet. When everything has set I'll remove the whole unit and wrap it in fiberglass.

We'll see tonight if the plan works or not :rolleyes:

[Ange]

Cool. The plan sounds good. Fiberglass is pretty easy to work with once you get the hang of it. Good luck!

[Unlogic]

Started working on the fins for the diffuser tonight, here is the shape I ended up with.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160101_214832.jpg

I wanted to make sure that the big stainless steel mufflers on my car remained the lowest point in case I would scrape the ground sometime. In order to ensure that I came up with this high tech device which I used for drawing on the cardboard template. :rolleyes:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160101_211301.jpg

Cutting the fins from the sheet of Divinycell.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160101_215747.jpg

Added two steel bars as a fixture while fixating the fins and tacking them in place with epoxy.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160101_214843.jpg

Fins in place (before measuring and gluing). Measuring the distance between the fins and getting all the angles right was a bit tedious but I got there in the end.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160101_232604.jpg

Fins glued in place with epoxy.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160102_000526.jpg

A view from underneath. The sharp edges of the fins are going to be rounded off later on.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160101_232627.jpg

If the epoxy has dried tomorrow I'll remove the diffuser and start wrapping it in a layer of fiberglass.

[AdamVR4]

Good stuff so far. Can't wait to see the wrapping process pics! :)

[Unlogic]

Decided to cover the whole underside of the diffuser in epoxy to strengthen it before removing it from the car.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160102_154812.jpg

Waiting for the epoxy to dry now...

[Unlogic]

Removed the diffuser from the car today and applied a layer of fiberglass on the top side. It took quite a bit of epoxy to fill in the space between tiles in the green Divinycell sheet but it should result in increased strength.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160103_130502.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160103_130511.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160103_133933.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160103_144026.jpg

If everything works out as planed I'll add a layer of fiberglass on the underside tomorrow.

[Unlogic]

Managed to get a few hours in the garage after work today. Started by sanding down some epoxy drops and imperfections from yesterdays work.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160104_221217.jpg

Then I added aluminum profiles to the bottom of the fins as a precaution to limit the damage in case they scrape the ground.

Also worked a bit on the radius where the fins meet the base.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160104_231706.jpg

To be continued...

[Unlogic]

I've been working hard to get a good finish on the epoxy. It proved quite hard to sand down but I've finally got far enough to put on a layer of filler. One more layer or two then it should be ready for painting.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160115_010946.jpg

[CoreyB]

Really cool project you have going here.

[Uniuno]

Very cool custom work there! How are you going to attach it to the car?

[Unlogic]

The front part of the diffuser goes between the fueltank and the cover beneath it. The rear will be bolted to either the crash bar or the stock mounting holes for the peice of the rear bumper that I removed.

I've purchased a bunch of stainless bolts and washers but I haven't decided which ones I'll use. My goal is to get the heads of the bolts as flush as possible with the surface of the diffuser.

[Unlogic]

Did some more sanding and put on a layer of spray filler today. The surface is looking quite decent now. Some more sanding with a finer grit paper then it's time for painting.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160117_004102.jpg

[Unlogic]

A friend came by today and helped me sand down the filler and drill the mounting holes. Here are two photos of the diffuser mounted on the car in it's final position

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160119_232545.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160119_232557.jpg

Next up will be to start working on the front splitter. When that's finished I'll send it all to the paint shop along with my new rear spoiler which should hopefully have arrived by then.

[Beef6]

Wow man looks great! I wish I was that skillful to just build that from scratch.

[Unlogic]

Started working on the front splitter today.

The stock active aero removed, tagged and ready for a long vacation on the attic along with many other stock parts from my car.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160207_133402.jpg

Since the Divinycell boards cost over 100$ each I'm starting with a piece of cardboard just like I did with the diffuser. This cardboard will be cut down to shape and the used a template for the two divinycell boards that will form the core of the splitter.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160207_150410.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160207_133412.jpg

In order the fix the cardboard to the car I used a curtain rod from IKEA, worked like a charm =)

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160207_133432.jpg

To be continued...

[Ange]

Looking good. How wide is the rear diffuser you made if I may ask?

[Unlogic]

I don't remember the exact size but what I did was to measure the distance between the rear tow hooks and then remove 3 cm on each side. That way the tow hooks are still accessible if I would end up with the car in a position where I'm unable to remove the diffuser before towing.

[Ange]

I don't remember the exact size but what I did was to measure the distance between the rear tow hooks and then remove 3 cm on each side. That way the tow hooks are still accessible if I would end up with the car in a position where I'm unable to remove the diffuser before towing.

Alrght thanks Ill measure my own when I get it back it to it's new garage. Was thinking if this might work; http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbon-Fiber-Rear-Diffuser-Lancer-EVO-7-8-9-CT9A-4G63-Tunezup-/111652243146?hash=item19fefe06ca:g:PpgAAOSwPhdVNrZ D&vxp=mtr
it's 70 cm wide and 73 cm length

Btw. rear tow hooks are real heavy metal POS brackets :D like 3-4 kilos. Delete or find another solution like a strap or alu one imo. Easy weightsave, just a tip..

[Unlogic]

That diffuser might work if you chop it off a bit. It looks a bit too long on the pictures.

I'm gonna have to do something regarding both the front and rear tow hooks. Think I got the front ones figured out but the rear ones are a different story. The is so little space to work with between the mufflers and the diffuser that it's hard to come up with a decent solution for relocating them. You have any ideas?

[CoreyB]

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2663/861/31655430012_large.jpg

There ya go!!

[Unlogic]

Thanks Corey, why didn't I think of that :lol7:

[Unlogic]

Got some parts in the mail today!

A set of unused DNP precat eliminators with a build date from 2006, they should hopefully fit a lot better than the ebay ones I've been fighting with for a couple of years.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160218_213401.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160218_213351.jpg

Finally got my new combat wing from Retro spec that I ordered long ago. Overall it looks very nice but i haven't had time to try it on the car yet.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160218_213307.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160218_213312.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160218_213325.jpg

[sohcstealth]

Where in the world did you find those precat eliminators?

[Turbo Beast]

Where in the world did you find those precat eliminators?

he said in the mail

[sohcstealth]

he said in the mail
Lol. I was more interested in knowing where exactly he got them, as I have been looking for a set for a loooooong time and have been unsuccessful thus far.

[Unlogic]

It was just a stroke of luck, found a guy from the UK selling a set on Facebook. I thought they had been used so I was mighty surprised when they turned out to be unused.

[Unlogic]

It's been almost two months since I got any garage time but today I managed to spend the whole day in the garage.

Spent the day fitting the retro spec 99 wing I bought a few months ago.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160326_083235.jpg

When I started measuring the holes for the new wing using a cardboard template I noticed that the left and right side did not have symmetrical mounting holes. Guess this is a side effect from this being a hand made low volume product.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160326_100200.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160326_111021.jpg

When I was test fitting the cardboard templates one of the nuts glued inside of the wing came loose and this was a major pita to fix http://pics.unlogic.se/smilies/pull%20hair.gif

After lots of fiddling I manged to grab the nut using some steel wire. I then threaded a long bolt into it so that I could pull it outwards as I poured glue onto the nut using a syringe.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160326_115807.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160326_151659.jpg

This created a new problem since my crude glueing process resulted in that I got glue on the threads of the nut which uses a non metric thread. Non metric stuff is very rare here so I had to call an old friend who had set of non metric drill taps.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160326_191008.jpg

Once that ordeal was over I proceeded drilling the non symmetrical holes in the trunk and after some fine tuning with various grinding bits I finally got the wing mounted on the car.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160326_203334.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160326_203401.jpg

There was a part out of an unfinished 3000GT build here in Sweden lately so I managed to get my hands on a brand new 99 front complete with headlights and a spare TC. Tomorrows task will be to weld some plates over the holes leftover from the active aero wing and start mounting the new front.

[Turbo Beast]

Ulgh what a pain!

Good recovery!!

[Unlogic]

The holes from the stock active aero wing are now gone. This is how they looked after I removed the active aero wing and cleaned everything up as much as I could.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160328_141728.jpg

I started the day thinking that I was going to weld a plate flush with the metal in trunk so I meticulously cut out metal plates that fit perfectly.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160328_154837.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160328_155118.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160328_160136.jpg

Just as I was about to bring out the welder a friend of mine came by and said, why don't you weld the plates from below and fill the resulting void with body solder. After thinking about it for about 10 seconds I realized he was right. Using a body solder would create a much better seal that should never crack or corrode.

So I got right to it and made new metal plates that were slightly larger than the holes and applied a layer of zinc based primer to the side that was going to be facing down.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160328_165349.jpg

Next i grinded away the paint around the holes.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160328_182014.jpg

Metal plates carefully welded on.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160328_185145.jpg

Soldering paste applied (lead based). This was then heated up to boiling point and then brushed away to leave a shiny clean surface.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160328_185409.jpg

Applying the solder and then starting the process of grinding it down.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160328_185950.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160328_191731.jpg

The finished result before applying some primer.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160328_193903.jpg

Here is a photo of the underside before I painted it over with a brush.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160328_195922.jpg

And finally a photo of the high tech soldering rig that was used, note NASA grade wooden stick I used to shape the solder :rolleyes:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160328_193022.jpg

[CoopKill]

Which wing again?

I am using a 2nd gen 3rd brake light, and modding to mount by itself in place of where the one in the wing goes.

Love the solder job :thumbup:

[Unlogic]

I'm replacing the stock active aero wing with a retro spec 99 clone. Haven't done much thinking about the brake light yet but I'm thinking of placing one in the rear window similar to the one on the true 99 cars. Got any pictures of the brake your working on?

[CoopKill]

Still in the concept stage, but basically taking the light out of the one you removed body working the wing actuator rear portion to form filled across. Other plan it to make a bolt patter conversion plate so I can swap back to oem year wing when/if wanted...

[Unlogic]

Started preparing the 99 front end swap today. Hopefully everything will fit just fine since this is Mitsubishi original parts for once and not some "bolt on" crap.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160409_172343.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160409_172352.jpg

[Ange]

Full 99! Nice stuff

That bumper should give some better cooling on the track I think

[Unlogic]

Got a time at the paint shop coming up so the 99 front end install will have wait another week.

A friend of mine helped my finish the surface of the diffuser, it's now ready for paint.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160415_230254.jpg

Started removing the interior of the car in order to remove the rear bumper and the sail panels.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160416_221807.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160417_001348.jpg

Had to take a break to mend these fasteners. Now matter how careful you are with these things it seems that one or two always decided to snap when you remove the panels...

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160417_003136.jpg

Sail panels finally removed.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160417_012429.jpg

Found some more Blaupunkt leftovers...

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160417_022033.jpg

Removed the ugly roof antenna, also a leftover from the Blaupunkt stereo.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160417_022038.jpg

i'm gonna see if I can find a plastic cover for the hole tomorrow so that I can ask the paint shop to paint it when they paint the rear of the car.

[Turbo Beast]

Screw the cover! Can they weld it shut?

[Unlogic]

I'm not painting the roof thats why I'm going for a cover this time.

[Turbo Beast]

Ah, sorry! Is the diffuser going to be functional?

[Unlogic]

According to my primitive calculations it should be functional. I've used the proper angles for my ride height.

[Unlogic]

Got the car back from the paint shop earlier this week after having the rear end painted so this weekend I put a lot of hours into getting the car back together.

I had removed the sail panels in order to paint the rear fenders which meant almost all of the read interior had to be removed but it's all back together now.

This is how the finished diffuser looks on the car.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160430_192603.jpg

Installed the 99 front end which went very smoothly, everything bolted up nicely.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160430_233839.jpg

The finished car in the middle of the night.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160501_012205%20-%20kopia.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160501_012233.jpg

[Jimvr4]

That looks amazing Robert!

[Unlogic]

The 99 front has much bigger side openings which is great for me since I'm using sidemounts. However the ducting I had been using with my 2g front didn't fit at all so I spent the afternoon cutting and shaping new aluminum ducts.

The openings without and ducting.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160505_155021.jpg

Templates made out of an old pizza box ready to be cut out.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160505_155030.jpg

The parts for one side.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160505_175247.jpg

A few pop rivets later =)

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160505_182453.jpg

[Unlogic]

The retro spec 99 replica wing I bought left a lot to be desired in quite a few areas. One of the areas was the side covers for the bolts. On the oem wing these are fastened by clips but this wing had no fastening mechanism for these what so ever. Retro spec told me to use double side tape when I asked about it.

Using double sided tape for body parts is something I avoid if possible. The carbonfibre/fibreglass covers are a bit fragile so if I had used a decent tape they would most likely have disintegrated on removal.

So to avoid using double tape I came up with the solution below.

The side of the wing without the covers on, notice that I hade to ground down the bolt heads in order for them fit under the cover.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160506_224901.jpg

Two nuts glued on with epoxy to act as fasteners.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160507_105719.jpg

One of the hollow covers cracked before I had even mounted it on the car so I glued the crack and the filled the hollow void with hot glue to give some more rigidity.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160507_012305.jpg

The finished result with stainless M4 bolts painted black to match the carbonfibre.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160507_143719.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160507_143725.jpg

[box]

Nice work with the captured nuts. My C7 end caps are currently double sided taped on, they're a pain in the ass and have almost fallen off on multiple occasions.

[Unlogic]

At the end of last season my engine developed an odd noise while idling when the car was warm. When I started the car this spring the noise was there too but it would come and go. For a while I thought it was a rod bearing and prepared to swap in my spare engine. However just as suddenly as it came the noise has gone away again. Very odd. The noise even triggered my knock sensor which made me even more worried as I would get knock at idle.

For now things seems to be back to normal so I'll worry about the noise if it comes back. Here is a photo of the LCDBC screen from a pull a few days ago:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160528_002954.jpg

I've been using the 3SX polyurethane engine mounts for a few years but they aren't molded 100% right so I have to use a crowbar in order to fit them. So when the_kid called me and said Ninja performance was going to stop selling Seattle poly engine mounts I decided to buy a set. Hopefully they fit better than the 3SX ones.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160529_175305.jpg

I also ordered a new banjo bolt for the fuel filter so that I can hook up a fuel pressure sensor to the LCDBC. i ordered the same banjo as Eric Gross used in his guide here: http://supercar-engineering.com/rubberducky/3S/Mods/All/FuelPresBanjo/index.html

The holes in the banjo on the photo below are enlarged since the Autometer banjo has smaller holes than the stock banjo.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160529_175256.jpg

I drove the car when it was raining a few days ago and noticed this afterwards. It seems that the waterdrops have followed the diffuser all the way to the read edge. This must be indication that the air is following the diffuser without delaminating and creating turbulence.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160529_181504.jpg

[Unlogic]

My local track opened for the season yesterday so I got the family in the car and prepared myself for some driving. Only got about 100 meter when I noticed a horrible sound from my left front brakes.

Parked the car and took one of my Volvos to the track instead as a spectator. When I got home I tore down the front brakes and found this:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160601_225034.jpg


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MrWQCCuG28

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160601_234419.jpg

The pads above are EBC yellowstuff which have performed very well on both street and track. However after seeing this carnage I'm not sure that I want to buy another set.

[Beef6]

Wow were the pads pretty old? I've seen that happen with "Parts store" pads but not quality pads. Wonder if they were defective?

[Unlogic]

The pads were fitted 3 years go and have seen quite a few track days and some street driving. Since they had so much friction material left I thought they were fine.

[Uniuno]

Awesome updates! The car looks great. I like what you did with the end caps on the wing. I may have to copy that.

[Unlogic]

The annual Swedish 3000GT gathering called Big meet was last weekend and we had a great time. We had rented the same airfield as last year and we drove on it for 9 hours straight. The competition was fierce and the times kept creeping down second by second as the day progressed.

Here is a photo of the 15 cars that attended the event:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/bigmeet2016/IMG_20160605_170643.jpg

This was my best run of the day:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7LEPbktDyY

I suspect this run would have been faster however if I hadn't spun out:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHxR2UyKA-I

During the whole day I pushed the car as hard as I could and everything worked without a hickup. I do have a slight bearing noise from the gearbox however that I suspect is coming from the intermediate shaft.

I went along as a passenger in one of the cars with coilovers and the difference compared to my ECS struts with TEIN S-tech springs was greater than I thought. I'm going to order a set of Öhlins coilovers as soon as my wallet recovers from all the renovation I've been doing on my house lately. Feels like I've pushed the stock suspension as far as it will go performance wise.

[Jimvr4]

Always enjoy reading your updates ☺

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[ReddVR4]

Awesome. I always love reading your updates. You're custom rear diffuser has inspired me to make my own. Similar to Von's but with different materials and an emphasis on aerodynamics. How did you calculate how many degrees your diffuser has? Geometry, or math in general, has never been my strong suit lol...

[Ange]

Awesome. I always love reading your updates. You're custom rear diffuser has inspired me to make my own. Similar to Von's but with different materials and an emphasis on aerodynamics. How did you calculate how many degrees your diffuser has? Geometry, or math in general, has never been my strong suit lol...

It is really nice I have to say. Snapped a pic at the yearly meet last week.

8990

[Unlogic]

Awesome. I always love reading your updates. You're custom rear diffuser has inspired me to make my own. Similar to Von's but with different materials and an emphasis on aerodynamics. How did you calculate how many degrees your diffuser has? Geometry, or math in general, has never been my strong suit lol...

I did quite a bit of reading regarding the design of diffusers and to be honest I found fairly little information that was usable.

What I did find was a few blog posts and pages that explained how the angle of the diffuser was dependent on the ride height of the car. I also found a few simulations showing how much drag/downforce the different angles produced.

If you have a second gen or newer 3000GT it's pretty easy to come up with a good angle. Cut of the bottom part of the rear bumper and then make a smooth curve starting from the protective plate underneath the fuel tank all the way to the bottom of the rear bumper. That gives you a curved shape that starts almost flat underneath the fuel tank and then gradually increases to about 12° if I remember correctly.

I did all this using cardboard templates so I don't have any measurements to posts unfortunately.

[Unlogic]

The XYZ pads I used on track during the annual 3000GT Big meet here in Sweden survived the event without cooking, fading or making too much noise. However they had far inferior bite however compared to the EBC yellowstuff pads I previously run which felt a bit scary.

I contacted EBC regarding my the failure of my yellowstuff brake pads. They told me that they were aware of the issue and that they hade changed their backing plates. Instead of gluing the material to the backing plate they now use backing plates with hooks on them to keep the material fastened.

http://www.nucapbrakes.com/userfiles/images/nrs_comparison.jpg

http://www.nucapbrakes.com/products/backing-plates/nrs/

EBC sent me a set of the new pads using UPS and gave a good discount on the price. Hopefully these pads wont fall into pieces after two years.

I got a chance to ride on the track with another member of the Swedish 3000GT club. That car was equipped Tein EDFC cilovers and I noticed how much less body roll and how much better turn in that car had compared to my ECS/Tein S-tech setup.

Based on the experiences of Nathan (R/T93) on this forum I decided to go for a set of Öhlins road & track coilovers. Buying the complete package from Muellerized however was a bit expensive with customs, shipping etc given that I live in Sweden. So I gave Öhlins HQ here in Sweden a call and explained the situation. They listened, compared the weight of the cars and told me that their EVO kit (MIS MI00) should work fine for our cars. If it was necessary slightly harder springs could be used without having to revalve the dampers. Their EVO kit used the highest spring rates of all their kits so they didn't think would be necessary however.

Two days later I got a nicely packaged box in the mail from Öhlins. Assembled everything today and now I'm only waiting for the adapter from Super car engineering to arrive.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160623_230758.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160623_231818.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160623_233924.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160625_101003.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160625_101016.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160625_101022.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160625_101635.jpg

[anyonebutme]

When you install the kit, make sure the adapter in the rear can rotate on the trailing arm pin when tight. Then after any clearancing grease it up good.

[Unlogic]

Thanks for the hint!

I got the adapters today I'll make sure to check that the rear adapters can rotate properly when I install them on the car.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160628_192820.jpg

[Unlogic]

It's vacation time so I've been working a bit on the car this week.

Finally got myself a Kent-Moore DT-47865 bearing race puller so that I can replace my intermediate shaft bearings in the gearbox. Didn't replace those last time I had the gearbox apart because I was unable to remove the bearing race from the housing.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160630_170811.jpg

However I had forgot that his was a US tool that didn't use metric threads so I had to go on a hunt for a non metric bolt. Luckily one of my friends had a bolt with the correct threads so I made the following adapter for my slide hammer.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160704_171113.jpg

Started mounting the new Öhlins suspension on the rear of the car. Thanks to the hint from anyonebutme I took extra care to make sure that the adapter could rotate freely when tightened up. And sure enough after I removed the original ECS suspension in the rear (with lots of heat, banging and pulling) and installed the first adapter, it wouldn't move.

In order to get the adapter to rotate freely when tightened up I had to do the following:

- Remove any traces of rust from the lower mount and polish them with oil and fine grit sandpaper
- Shorten the conical shaped plastic inserts in the adapters around 2 millimeters

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160705_160137.jpg

- Take a M10 washer and drill a M12 sized hole in it so I could put in inside the adapter between the lower mount and the bolt to reduce the pressure on the adapters when the bolt was fully tightened

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160705_160053.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160705_160129.jpg

After taking the above steps and adding some axle grease the adapters rotate freely.

I assembled the rear suspension and set it to the recommended values from Öhlins for Evo 8/9 and lowered the car. The car ended up being so low that I could even get my finger between the fender and the rear tire.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160705_185040.jpg

Increased the ride height slightly by turning the ride hide adjusters 6 turns and got the following height. Hopefully this setting wont rub until I get have time to roll my rear fenders a but for further clearance.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160706_134004.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160706_130953.jpg

Next I proceeded by removing all traces of the ECS system. It was a pleasant surprise to see that Mitsubishi had used connectors for the ECS harness on a all four corners so no cables had to be left dangling.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160706_135746.jpg

A comparison of the stock ECS steel front strut and the new aluminum struts. The new struts where about half the weight of the old ones.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160706_153823.jpg

Grinded the holes in the front strut towers very slightly in order for the EVO struts to fit. Here is a before and after shot.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160706_222226.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160706_223510.jpg

And the front strut in place.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160708_235000.jpg

[Unlogic]

With the suspension mostly done I replaced two things on the car that have really been bugging me for the last few years.

My badly fitting China made precat eliminators and the 3SX poly engine mounts. I had wrestle with the 3SX drivers side engine mount as usually before I got it of the car for the last time. The new one essentially just dropped in place. Replaced all mounts except the rear one while I was at it to save some weight.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160707_213519.jpg

The precat eliminators I have been using had wrong angles, wrong lengths and a badly warped flange on the rear one. Replaced them with a set DNP ones that fit really well. They even lined up with the hole by the rear engine mount. I wish all aftermarket parts were made to this standard.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160707_213125.jpg

[Unlogic]

Next I proceeded with the real work, dropping the gearbox and replacing the intermediate shaft bearings.

Having the car on the lift and using the crane winch really speeds things up.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160708_231233.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160708_231213.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160708_232504.jpg

While I had the gearbox remove I took a look at my RPS clutch and it looked to be in splendid condition from the outside.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160708_233719.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160708_233711.jpg

But when I removed the clutch disc I heard the following sound:


https://youtu.be/bF_wa6_B3cw

That sound started last spring and I've spent hours trying to locate it on the car thinking that it was something in the engine http://pics.unlogic.se/smilies/facepalm.gif

I looked closely and all spring seems to be intact, do I dare to put this clutch disc back or should I replace it with something beefier?

[Unlogic]

The car is back together now, here a few photos from the work on the gearbox.

Carefully removing all dirt from the outside of the gearbox before opening it to prevent contamination.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160709_143345.jpg

Shifting into two gears simultaneously so the nut at the end of the input shaft can be removed.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160710_112716.jpg

The nut at the end of the input shaft (normally hidden behind a black plastic/rubber seal).

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160710_112735.jpg

The nut removed.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160710_113229.jpg

Tape over the splines and then grease on top of the tape to protect the seals when separating the case.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160710_120141.jpg

Pressing out the input shaft from the bearing in the endcase.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160710_131740.jpg

This puller was just big enough to reach around the end case.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160710_131142.jpg

Shafts removed and zip-tied together.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160710_133043.jpg

While removing the reverse gear from the intermediate shaft I accidentally pushed the slider of the reverse gear away from the gear causing it to come loose from the hub which sent springs and balls flying everywhere...

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160710_193306.jpg

Intermediate shaft with bearings removed.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160710_203307.jpg

After pressing on the new bearings I started checking the preload. The solder method didn't work however. No matter how many shims I added the solder never crushed beyond 0,3 mm and this was with a preload so hard that I couldn't even rotate the intermediate shaft by hand. So instead I set the preload based on how much force it took to turn the shaft. Now the question comes how do you rotate the intermediate shaft by itself?

Well I installed only the intermediate shaft and locked the reverse gear slider using small pieces of plastic to keep it from disengaging the gear. Then I stuck my finger into the case through the hole in the input shaft bearing in endcase and turned the reverse idler gear which in turn turned the intermediate shaft.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160711_004800.jpg

If everything works out as planed then I'll be going to the track next week to test the new suspension. I'll report back on how it performs.

[Unlogic]

Here is a good article about diffusers.

http://www.racecar-engineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/Diffuser.jpg

http://www.racecar-engineering.com/technology-explained/diffusers-engineering-basics-aerodynamics/

[anyonebutme]

This picture is a good illustration of what a trip is:

http://www.racecar-engineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/Underbody.jpg

Notice the increase in negative pressure at the sharp angle change at the start of the diffuser throat, that is the trip, which accelerates the flow in that area due to disturbing the boundary layer. If you look at any underbody of race car, you'll see it. I used to have a folder full of formula car tunnel shots, but I can't find it.

But here's this: http://www.mulsannescorner.com/BenzCLR2.jpg

Back to work.

[Rakuny]

Do you mean at the very left side o the photo at the curve or where the angles start towards the middle?

[Unlogic]

Took the car to track yesterday for a test session with the new suspension and like Nathan (R/T93) said in his review of the Ohlins coilovers it really transforms the car. With the ECS dampers and Tein S tech lowering springs I always had to wrestle a bit with the car to get it through the corners with good turn in and without understeer. With the new setup the car just turns and it does so very smoothly.

I ran the dampers on the track using the same settings as I've used on the road 10 clicks front och 15 clicks rear which worked very well. On the track I noticed that I handn't put enough miles on my new yellow stuff front bake pads to remove the coating on them so I had some brake fade that came and went during the session. This prevent me from keeping full pace during the whole session but when I was going for it I had no problems keeping the same pace as the BMW M3's on the track which felt very nice :)

I had my action camera mounted on the roof of the car for the whole session but I forgot to turn it on so no video this time http://pics.unlogic.se/smilies/facepalm.gif

[Unlogic]

I ran with about 1,5 degree of camber up front and that together with the new suspension it really made a big difference in how long my tires would hold up. With my previous setup I could only run a few laps before my tires would overheat and turn into cheese. Now I got through the whole session without overheating the tires too much and it should be noted that I was running the same tyres as last year.

[Unlogic]

Here is a photo from last weeks track session.

9044

[Unlogic]

The check valve inside this hose has been jamming from time to time in car for several years but lately it died altogether. This cause me to loose both brake and clutch servo when I was under boost since I feed both the servos from the same hose on my car.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160728_182411.jpg

Instead of a cheap generic plastic replacement from the local autopart stores I opted for a different solution.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160728_180617.jpg

Took a drive to a local company that sells pneumatic components and they had the following valve in stock. It's made out of aluminum and uses a nylon plunger inside. It requires a 0.2 bar pressure difference to open but it's good for 10 bars of pressure and seems very sturdy. Installed it on the car and it's working great so far. The only downside was it's size so I'll have to tidy up the installation a bit this winter.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160728_193641.jpg

I've resumed to work on my front splitter that I started earlier this year.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160812_000550.jpg

The 99 front is slightly wider and lower than the my old gen 2 front so I turned my old template upside down and started drawing a new shape. When I was satisfied I cut half the slitter to shape and then folded the template on itself to create mirror the shape on the other side.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160812_005629.jpg

This is the final template.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160812_010435.jpg

If everything works out as planned then I'm going to pick up large sheet of 10 mm HDPE plastic tomorrow that I'll use for the splitter. It's the same type of shatter proof plastic that I used for the battery container in my car. The splitter would be much lighter if I made it out of divinycell, epoxy and fiberglass like I did with the read diffuser but I realized that it would probably be to fragile given all the bumps and scratches the splitter will have to endure.

[Unlogic]

Finished the front splitter today. Took some crude pictures in the dark outside the garage tonight but I'll try to post a few better pictures tomorrow.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160812_203730.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160812_231134.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160815_220639.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160813_003542.jpg

For the front mounting point I'm using the holes from the old active aero spoiler. I needed some spacers to get the splitter in the correct angle so I an aluminum pipe together with some washers for fine adjustments.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160815_185202.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_8331.JPG

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_8323.JPG

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_8329.JPG

[Beef6]

Looks amazing!

[Unlogic]

Thanks it came out better than I had expected.

If found a few really good articles regarding front splitters which led me to add the rubber strip to between the splitter and the front bumper.

http://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep-75/splitter-height-70456/
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=80790

[Unlogic]

I noticed that if I hit a bump at high speed the splitter could start to vibrate. To prevent that from happening I oredered a set of adjustable aluminum rods from Fully torqued racing. They turned out to be very nicely machined and fit perfectly.

However I forgot that since they are made in the US they use non metric threads which caused a bit of a problem since non metric bolts are very rare over here. As usual a V8 driving friend came to the rescue with a few bolts ftom his parts bin :)

9102

9103

9104

[Unlogic]

Took the car to a trackday about a month ago. The track is made of an old military airfield which has been modified into a race track. The track was quite smooth a quick which suited my car very well.

During the first session the track was wet and it was only about 10-15° C outside. I was running on street tires which combined with the 4WD gave me a big advantage over the guys running on race tires and I ended up being quickest round the track that session.

When it was time for the second session the track had dried up and the temperature had gone a few more degrees so this time a highly tuned Opel GT with slicks managed to get past me but I still had a blast.

One area I did screw up was in the filming department... during the first session I had accidentally set my action cam to still picture instead of video so when I pressed record it captured a single frame http://pics.unlogic.se/smilies/facepalm.gif. I corrected this for the second session but the instead forgot to turn on the camera when I drove onto the track so I missed a large part of the first lap.

Anyway here is a few photos and the video from the second session.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160924_121312.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160924_121259.jpg


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8KkC8dn-L0

On the way home from the track I stopped at an official weigh station to check the weight of my car for the first time. With 1/3 tank of fuel and some tools and luggage in the car the scale stopped at 1640 kilos (3615 lb).

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160924_183140.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20160924_183150.jpg

[Unlogic]

I'm having a few days off work so I'm getting some work done on the car.

Removed the splitter yesterday and added an aluminum subframe to it in order to prevent it from vibrating at speeds above 200 km/h. If this doesn't cure the vibrations I'll have to build a new one using some other material.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20161229_001208.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20161229_165433.jpg

Got a Snow performance alcohol injection kit in the mail today.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20161229_191031.jpg

Installed everything on the workbench in order to be able to test all components notably the MOSFET-based driver module my little brother built for me. It's needed to convert the 5v PWM alchy signal from the LCDBC to a powerful enough 12v signal to drive the pump.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20161229_212530.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20161229_220745.jpg

In order to generate a PWM signal while I had everything on the workbench I used a digital oscilloscope.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20161229_221126.jpg

After som testing me and my brother figured out that the Aquatec 5800 seemed to perform best with a 100 hz PWM signal. That gave a good atomization from 15% duty cycle and upwards with the nozzle I'll be using.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVUgKx6XPkE

The tank I'll be using holds 3 liters which is enough for 6 minutes of 100% duty cycle on the pump. Given how few seconds per lap that are spent at full throttle that should hopefully be more than enough.

[shmoo]

cool thread man. how about this rubber piece on top of the splitter? or whoever that piece is. is that to force air to go up?

[Unlogic]

The rubber peice is there to make a seal between the splitter and the front spoiler. Amateur aerodynamics in action :)

This is the effect I'm trying to replicate:

http://www.formula1-dictionary.net/Images/splitter_aero.jpg

[shmoo]

that picture doesn't make any sense to me.

but i do know that my splitter seems to have a little ramp on the top surface of the splitter assumeably to force air into or towards the radiator. which sounds nice, and i have had temperature issues in the past,.. and it seems like that little strip will block that.

so is that thing there so i can have those green arrows making more low pressure? deaurghhh.

[Unlogic]

so is that thing there so i can have those green arrows making more low pressure? deaurghhh.

Simplified yes :)

[shmoo]

why do i want more low pressure, i'm sure this has been explained, and i've probably read the explanation half a dozen times. it obviously stuck..

[Unlogic]

Low pressure zone under the car gives you more downforce and reduces drag in simplified terms.

https://hanchagroup.wordpress.com/2013/01/29/splitter-or-air-dam-which-design-is-best/

[shmoo]

hmmm, ahhh yes. next time i have to take the splitter off, maybe i'll try something cool. but i have a bunch of stuff in between the cover and the splitter. i guess maybe get a little weird..

hmmm, for your trunk, you said that you used a lead based solder, which i'm not seeing on any websites, but, if i can find this paste, do i apply it, then heat it, and it kind of ends up looking like metal. then i can sand it?

just help me out s little there. i need to fix the same holes...

[shmoo]

and how'd your aluminum splitter frame do, or have you not gotten it up to speed yet?

is the whole thing bolted to the frame?

i went a little dumb with mine. likely one phuk ton heavier than yours.

[Unlogic]

I used body solder and a lead based flux paste to fill the holes in the trunk. Here is some info regarding the process:

http://www.eastwood.com/blog/tech-articles/leading-gene-winfield/

It's winter here in Sweden so I want be able to test the splitter for a couple of months unfortunately. It's bolted to the frame using 7 bolts and 2 more bolts to the sides of the front spoiler. The front 4 bolts use the same threaded holes as the active aero used to be mounted with.

[shmoo]

that old guy...


did you use an acetylene torch, or no.. i don't have one of those!!! i'm going to need an adult. you ever visit the states?

[box]

I used body solder and a lead based flux paste to fill the holes in the trunk. Here is some info regarding the process:

http://www.eastwood.com/blog/tech-articles/leading-gene-winfield/

TIL. Amazing.

[Unlogic]

that old guy...


did you use an acetylene torch, or no.. i don't have one of those!!! i'm going to need an adult. you ever visit the states?

I used a normal propane torch, nothing fancy. Since the trunk is flat it's a much simpler job than the curved surfaces you see in the video.

Haven't been to the states yet, but any respectable body shop should know the procedure. It's much superior to using plastic fillers.

[shmoo]

yes.. we'll see what i can do

[Unlogic]

The water/meth injection install is almost finished now. While I was at it I decided to remove my front washer fluid tank and add a second pump by the rear tank instead. Since the rear washer fluid tank doesn't have a low level warning I connected the cables to the low level sensor of the water/tank instead.

Front washer fluid tank and brackets removed.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170102_090131.jpg

Adding protective sleeves for the water/meth and washer fluid tubing.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170102_135658.jpg

I ran the tubing under the car on top of the 4WS and brake lines so that install is almost invisible from below. Here is where the lines emerge in trunk.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170106_013835.jpg

Now that the fuel filter was more accessible I mounted a new banjo bolt and a fuel pressure sensor that i connected to the LCDBC.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170104_162938.jpg

Found a local source of cable sleeves and heat shrink tubing with glue in it so I could make the new harness look pretty =)

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170104_222451.jpg

Added a hose barb to the rear washer fluid tank.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170103_205157.jpg

Made an aluminum bracket for the new washer fluid pump (the stock pump from the front washer fluid tank was to weak).

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170103_220124.jpg

The new pump installed where the ECS computer used to be.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170104_224847.jpg

Since the rear washer fluid tank is mounted quite high I needed to add check valve in order to prevent the water draining out of the front nozzles.

I bought a different bunch from various brands but all of them restricted the flow too much.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170103_202552.jpg

Eventually I found this SAAB vacuum check valve which worked like a charm

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170103_202559.jpg

I decided to mount the water/meth tank in the rear of the trunk so it would be easily accessible when it had to be refilled.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170107_121742.jpg

I removed this rubber grommet in the trunk and inserted a steel ruler between the trunk floor and the fuel tank so that I could drill holes in the floor without risking to damage the fuel tank with the drill.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170107_111720.jpg

I then added these rivet nuts so that I could mount the pump to the floor

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170107_114959.jpg

Finding a source of methanol here in Sweden turned out to be a major hassle so I ended up ordering it from the UK via ebay =)

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170119_185657.jpg

My brother build a second revision of the driver module with more cooling.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170108_234535.jpg

[Unlogic]

Even with extra cooling the driver module got a bit too hot so we did a third revision with two transistors instead.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170205_193801.jpg

Testing everything to see that it works before making the final install

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170205_191532.jpg


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbgN5FrZZ8c

My brother 3D printed a new cover for the box that was going to hold the driver module in place.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170207_223207.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170207_223221.jpg

Added a few more rivet nuts.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170207_225315.jpg

And here is the final install in the trunk.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170207_233701.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170207_233652.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170225_001732.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170225_001808.jpg


Testing the function in the LCDBC to control the pump duty cycle using a boost pressure in this case using a bicycle pump.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=hyuxUbAjPG0

If everything works out then I'm only going to use the boost pressure as a starting point of when to start the water/meth injection and then control the duty cycle based on the duty cycle of the fuel injectors to get a correct mixture.

[Unlogic]

I've replaced my LCDBC with a newer version now and installed a few extra sensors so that I can log fuel pressure, oil pressure and oil temperature.

Here is my old LCDBC unit after I removed it.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170325_220440.jpg

Here is the new version:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170315_203946.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170315_204218.jpg

Took the car out for a breather so I could use the garage to do some work on my old Volvo 940.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170225_150412.jpg

After some thinkering I decided to use a sandwich plate for the oil temp and pressure sensors. Bought a generic aluminum one locally, well see how it holds up.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170326_134740.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170326_152453.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170326_152504.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170401_165651.jpg

I followed this guide written by Eric Gross years ago regarding the cable routing: http://supercar-engineering.com/rubberducky/3S/Mods/All/DefiOTP/index.html

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170401_194640.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170401_212837.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170402_164046.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170402_164057.jpg

Everything temporarily connected for testing:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170405_212755.jpg

Here a quick clip showing the values on the LCDBC:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfZCr9W0C7k

[Unlogic]

Everything is up and running now, here is what I've done since the last update.

Added a fitting for water/meth injector to my y-pipe.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170412_224833.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170412_225535.jpg

All hooked up:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170429_230120.jpg

Built a small Arduino based monitoring system to that I can follow the duty cycle of the water/meth pump in realtime. It also works a safety to see that system is actually working.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170414_220155.jpg

Here is a small clip of the initialization sequence when I power up the system.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20-szfds8aU

3D printed a small housing to house the LED-bar on top of the steering column.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170429_190222.jpg

When all installation work was done I headed out on the road to do some testing using a 50/50 mix of distilled water and methanol.

I configured the LCDBC to start the water/meth injection with 15% duty cycle at 0.95 bar and to scale it up to 100% duty cycle at 1.5 bar.

I noticed right away on my first pull that essentially all my knock disappeared which was very nice to see. When I do a 1.2 bar pull on third gear I get 0 to 1 counts of knock.

The top end also picked up a bit more power and the car pulls noticeably stronger above 6500 rpm.

I'm going to do some more testing and logging during the coming weeks to see how the water/meth injection affects my AFR values. Maybe I'll be able to add a bit more timing too now that the knock is gone.

[CoreyB]

Arduinos are so awesome. Easy to program making it possible to do just about anything yourself.

[Unlogic]

Yes they are really awesome for these time of stuff. I actually have a small stock of them in the garage now in case I need one on short notice. One problem though is that the electrical environment in a car can be quite though so a some filtering of the signals is almost always needed to avoid odd problem with these tiny computers. Power spikes seems to cause them to freak out otherwise.

[Unlogic]

Here is photo of housing for the LED-bar after sanding and painting.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/housing.jpg

[anyonebutme]

I like it

[Unlogic]

Haven't updated this thread in quite some time now. The modifications I did this winter are working however. The water meth injection removed all traces of knock and I ended up with 3rd place on the track at the annual Swedish 3000GT meet.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/bigmeet2017/20170604_133820.jpg

Here are two videos from the track, one with a clean lap and one with all the mishaps and aborted runs I did.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWzUkE6if6I


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPag0vBBqCA

At the meet a member of the Swedish 3000GT club brought to my attention that straight rear camber arms don't work well when you have lowered the car as much as I have since they hit the frame of the car limiting suspension travel. The solution is to use bent camber arms like stock one are. The only company which seems to offer adjustable rear camber arms which are bent is Pitroad M so I ordered a set from them:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170612_165054.jpg

Fro some reason Pitroad M send me a whole load of sticker =)

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170612_165301.jpg

And a printed manual which is rare for this type of parts. Overall I was really impressed with the quality of their parts and packaging

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170612_165416.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170612_165911.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170624_130849.jpg

While I had the car in the air I added a small wind deflector on the front side of the diffuser which is not covered by the fuel tank.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170611_223731.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170611_223750.jpg

[Unlogic]

For a few years I've been using a green-latern inspired crank case ventilation setup with a T-connection between the heads.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170712_121517.jpg

Originally I wanted to use a Y-connection instead but I was unable to find a silicone or rubber hose that could be bent so sharply without kinking. However while walking around a car parts store the other day I came across these hoses.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170712_121652.jpg

Used parts of the hoses and a Y-connection to create this setup instead. Should flow much better when there is positive pressure in the crank case.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170713_173803.jpg

Next up I removed the front bumper in order to fit the 1999 US spec coolant reservoir. Originally my car had a headlight washer reservoir here and two of the bolt holes for that tank lined up with the 1999 tank.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170712_150609.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170712_191011.jpg

The old coolant reservoir removed and heading the box of stock parts on the attic.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170712_171933.jpg

With the old coolant reservoir removed I added a cold air intake using some flexible aluminum piping.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170712_183139.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170712_185638.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170712_185658.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170712_185851.jpg

Finally I replaced the heavy metal crash bar (Euro spec cars never got the aluminum version) with a tubular crash one from GZP.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170713_180017.jpg

It bolted straight on and GZP even included stainless nuts, bolts and washers so fitment was a breeze.

[Unlogic]

I haven't updated this thread in quite a while. However I've been quite active this summer and participated in a whole range of events with the car.

This is the first year that I've had an oil temperature sensor installed. During the first events this summer I noticed that my oil temperature skyrocket up to around 130 degrees centigrade which was a bit outside my comfort.

I relocated the stock oil cooler to the front of the car when I installed gene SMIC's a few years ago so airflow to the oil cooler shouldn't be a problem. So I came to the conclusion that the stock oil cooler had to bee too small for power I was pushing.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMAG1998.jpg

In order to keep the oil temperature in check I ordered are really wide Setrab slimline oil cooler.

https://www.do88.se/bilder/artiklar/zoom/6-53-10750_1.jpg

I fabricated a custom aluminum mount so that I could installed the new oil cooler directly in front of the AC condenser.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170808_200302.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170808_204612.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170808_231433.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170809_123824.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170809_154750.jpg

However while removing the stock oil cooler I found the cause of the high oil temperature. I had left a plug made of masking tape in one of the AN-couplings... the tape was in surprisingly good condition given that it had been there for 3 or 4 years.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170808_235714.jpg

The only reason why I didn't get tape fragments all over the motor is because the oil cooler is located before the oil filter.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/70499d1207837948-oil-cooler-bypass-valve-cause-low-oil-pressure-when-car-warm-oilsystem.jpg

The new oil cooler however works extremely well it's large frontal area and the oil temp rarely goes over 90 degrees which is when the thermostat opens.

[Unlogic]

The water/meth injection has worked very well so I slowly upped the boost this summer. As I approached 20 psi I started getting really bad spark blowout.

In an attempt to cure that I purchased and installed a used HKS DLI unit.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170816_191044.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170816_193236.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170818_201437.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170819_005836.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170819_004940.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170819_001829.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170819_004921.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170819_011354.jpg

The HKS DLI only made things worse so I figured that it had to be the ignition cables. Luckily I had a set of new OEM ignition cables laying around.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170901_170322.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170901_201844.jpg

While I was at it I removed a spark plug and inspected a cylinder using a endoscope just to get a feel for the condition of my engine which has just passed 160 000 km.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170901_170415.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170901_170637.jpg

Everything looked very clean which I suspect is due to the water/meth injection.

Put everything back together and to my great relief the spark blowout was gone.

[Unlogic]

Towards the end of the summer I participated in a two day Hill climb competition. During the first day the rain pored down during the whole event so I was a bit careful given how narrow the road was in some places.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170819_094343.jpg


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeonqncosNk

Even with my careful driving I managed to finish 3rd in my class on day 1.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170819_144526.jpg

[Unlogic]

During the second day of the event the weather was dry and I pushed the car as hard as I could which involved power sliding through some corners and even getting the car up on 3 wheels a few times (lifted a rear wheel).

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170820_134132.jpg


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6DlAjoMdO4


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZlfPBtKvaM

With this more aggressive driving style I was able to win my class on the second day.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20170820_141206.jpg

[ReddVR4]

Awesome stuff!

[Unlogic]

Here is few more photos from the Hill climb event:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/22051374_1290225517772682_3967030642650007608_o.jp g
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/22095863_1290221381106429_8795543937660730865_o.jp g
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/22095969_1290224731106094_2817194101258948848_o.jp g
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/22096014_1290225974439303_6175790652210395716_o.jp g
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/22096052_1290226614439239_6166192630799908418_o.jp g
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/22096189_1290225224439378_4662874975567924046_o.jp g
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/22096262_1290225417772692_281649752558057702_o.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/22104722_1290223097772924_3271761571842662713_o.jp g
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/22047928_1290223084439592_6639904496325425763_o.jp g
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/22047991_1290226571105910_6972133639513143202_o.jp g
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/22051064_1290226301105937_1477967343039706135_o.jp g
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/22051127_1290225111106056_465952045530789259_o.jpg

[Unlogic]

So it's winter again and we all know that that means... more car mods while we wait for the spring to arrive!

This year the gearbox is coming down because I'm installing a Quaife front LSD and replacing a bunch of needle bearings. I've been chasing a high pitched bearing whine for a few years now. It's only audible at high speeds when the gearbox is warm. It's faint on 4th gear and gets more pronounced on 5th and 6th gear. Philip at Supercar gave me the tip of checking the needling bearings under 1st and 2nd gear so I'll be checking those along with all the smaller needle bearings and the input shaft main bearings.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/MVIMG_20171124_202953.jpg

My 3rd gear has been feeling a bit crunchy so I'll be inspecting the syncro on that gear. If it needs replacing I have a set of Syncrotech carbon syncros ready.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/MVIMG_20171124_214211.jpg

This season I pushed my Boostmore billet 15G's to the limit especially on the exhaust side. If I made a pull through 3rd and 4th gear to redline at 20 psi the exhaust housing would glow orange for minutes afterwards even though I have water/meth injection.

So I'll be replacing the turbos with a piece of 3S history... a set of TD04HL 18T turbos built by SL Turbo here in Sweden in 2004. It's that same type of turbos that Mikael Kenson ran back in the day. They are actually Volvo turbos which have been mated to a bored out 3000GT exhaust housing.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/MVIMG_20171219_205604.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/MVIMG_20171219_210605.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/MVIMG_20171219_210719.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/MVIMG_20171219_210748.jpg

In order to improve on this "model 2004 technology" I'll be installing a set of 11-blade GTX-design billet compressor wheels with an extended tip which makes the closer to 19T in size.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/20140819_1000.jpg

My hope is that the billet wheels will provide better spoolup compared to a standard TD04HL 18/19T setup because I've been really spoiled by the almost instantaneous spool of my small billet TD04 15G turbos for the past years.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_KtWn83EE0

[Unlogic]

The billet wheels for my new turbos arrived today. I'll be sending these turbos away for inspection and balancing shortly now that I have all the parts.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20171228_154536.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20171228_154810.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20171228_154756.jpg

[shmoo]

very sweet stuff you’re doing there in sweden.. and i like the two videos you posted of the road course..

[Unlogic]

I've removed my gearbox in order to install a Quaife front diff, carbon syncros and trace down a high pitched noise on 4-5-6 gears that I've been chasing for years.

Removed the input shaft end case bearing and found this.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180103_201634.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180103_201623.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180103_201628.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180103_213024.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180103_212819.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180103_212828.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180103_212834.jpg

The bearing has spun inside the case, luckily for me there was two shims behind the bearing which has worn against each other instead of eating up the case to much. The plate which holds the bearing down looks pretty worn however so I'll most likely have to replace it along with the bearing.

Has anyone also seen a spun end case bearing on these gearboxes? I sure haven't...

[stealthee]

I had a outer race spin in my trans. I cleaned up the case and when I installed my new bearings I put a dab of red loctite on the race to make sure it didn't spin again. We've done similar to the endbells on electric motors at work that are slightly out of tolerance.

[Unlogic]

Thanks, I'll remember to do that when I put everything back together. I need to source a new retainer plate and shims now.

[Unlogic]

Took apart the input shaft end case bearing that had spun in my gearbox case and it looked fine to my untrained eyes. However I could hear a slight noise from the bearing when spinning it by hand.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180127_172121.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180127_172130.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180127_172141.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180127_172150.jpg

To test the bearing I fastened it in my vice and spun it up to speed using a polishing wheel. The noise it produced wasn't pretty so this bearing is going in the bin.


https://youtu.be/fg3QeaJ7NNI


https://youtu.be/RxjClDWPbPw

I thought the retainer for the bearing looked a bit worn so my friend Taz in Norway sent me a used one in good condition. Here is comparison between the good and bad one.


https://youtu.be/RPJKEMoZoZo

Lesson learned, if you take you gearbox apart 4 times looking for a noise check the input shaft end case bearing thoroughly!

[Unlogic]

I realized that the compressor housing of 18T turbos would hit my front engine mount really badly unless I reclocked the compressor outlet to point upwards which cause problem with my intercooler pipes instead.

So I sold the 18T turbos and ordered a set of DR750R turbos instead. I also managed to get my hands on a brand new GCTech front manifold which should be a nice combo for the new turbos.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180212_192734.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180212_192744.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180212_192755.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180222_183938.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180222_183948.jpg

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180222_184011.jpg

[anh165]

I am sure the DR750R's will be a great step up from the 18T turbo.

I have one of them staring at me by my desk, every day until April time when they will be installed!

Anh

[vitalivr4]

Unlogic say good buy to your engine

[Unlogic]

Unlogic say good buy to your engine

I got a spare that I'm building with forged internals but thats for the 2019 season. My current one should be fine with a good tune and proper load based boost control.

[Unlogic]

Here a little update of my on gearbox work.

The oil filler plug on my gearbox has always had very bad threads and used some kind of home made plug which I thought would stip the threads completely each time I tightened it. This time I decided it was something needed to be done so I rethreaded filler plug to M20x1.5 threads and fitted a proper plug.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180311_112351_1.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180311_112954.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180324_163102.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180324_195318.jpg

Then I proceeded to moving the front differential gear to my new Quaife front differential.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180311_125849.jpg

Initially I pressed on the Koyo bearings that came in the Supercar bearing kit but I then realized that the SKF bearing I'd previously used felt much tighter and quieter so switched to SKF bearings instead.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180311_145743.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180324_230430.jpg

The gears in the stock front differential were surprisingly worn down. They must have taken some abuse over the years.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180311_125908.jpg

Next I installed the the new end case bearing. Since the old one had spun slightly in the case I measured everything very closely and ended up adding new shims along with Loctite 638 to keep the new bearing in place.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180330_133250.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180330_140815.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180330_141946.jpg

[Unlogic]

I then tackled the task of installing carbon syncros on 3,4,5 and 6th gear since my 3rd gear synchro was wearing a bit think after 5 years of racing at various events each summer.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180331_133110.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180331_134558.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180331_145223.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180331_153011.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180331_172739.jpg

The input shaft assembled again next to the other axles.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180331_182036.jpg

When I was done I put the input shaft in the freezer overnight to make the process of pressing it into the end case bearing a bit easier.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180331_183357.jpg

All assembled in the end case.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180401_114611.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180401_123024.jpg

While I was taking apart the bellhouse and mid sections of the gearbox after checking the preload on the front differential I accidentally broke the oil guide for the intermediate shaft. This meant I had to take my spare gearbox apart and pull the oil guide from that one and put it into this gearbox. A big waste of time...

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180401_120920.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180401_154054.jpg

After that I managed to damage a brand new output shaft seal when pressing it in even though I had deburred the hole in the case prior to installing it. Luckily for me a had another new one laying around which installed without a hitch. The seal on the left is the one that had I been using for 5 years, looks pretty much worn out. Then one on the right is the one I managed to damage.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180401_195719.jpg

Next up was the task of installing new front axle seals, a job I really hate because the seals are quite soft and the fitment is really tight. This time I modified a pipe to fit exactly on the seal which me it easier to press it in. I also noticed the genuine Mitsubishi seals are much easier to press in compared to the aftermarket ones like you get from Supercar.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180401_134518.jpg

However after painstakingly pressing in a brand new OEM passenger side seal I noticed the spring on the seal was all rusty (!). I carefully removed the spring and oiled it up. When I tried to extend the spring a bit it immediately overextend and became to loose to fit on the seal... so I had no choice but to remove the seal and install an aftermarket seal instead. By the way the aftermarket seals have thick rubber and use a different spring which cannot be used on the OEM seal.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180401_134546.jpg

[Unlogic]

The gearbox all together again...

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180401_234359.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180402_133335.jpg

Next up is the installation of a new front manifold and DR750 turbos which hopefully will be a bit more stimulating than all the gearbox work.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180402_133426.jpg

[Unlogic]

The car is back together again and running great so here is a little update on whats happened since my last post.

I assumed the my GCTech manifold would be a bolt on job but I was wrong...

I started by grinding down some ugly welds on the inside of pipes to prevent any excess material from become loose later on and damaging the turbines.
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180407_152831.jpg

Removed hade to remove the alternator, AC and oil dipstick in order to get enough room to install the manifold. When I started bolting everything back I immediately hit two snags... one of the pipes from the AC compressor hits the manifold and the same thing goes for the oil stick it would not fit without some serious bending.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180408_002921.jpg

The solution ended up being to bend the oil stick around the manifold. Adding washers between the AC compressor and the engine block to move it further forward, slightly bending the pipe on the AC compressor and wrapping the manifold.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180428_094120.jpg

This was the first time I've wrapped a shape this complex, took me 5-6 hours before I was satisfied with the result. I redid the wrap no less than 7 times before I found a strategy that would cover the whole manifold without wrinkles.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180428_153203.jpg

Next problem I came across was that the front O2 sensor pointed straight into the manifold... turns out the DNP pre cat eliminators that I use don't have the O2 sensor in the same angle/location as the stock pre cat.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180429_110820.jpg

The solutions was to plug the old O2 sensor bung and weld on another one in a different angle.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180430_091606.jpg

The aluminum crush washers for my oil return line bolts at the oil pans were in a sorry state. In order to solve the tendencies for leaks at these bolts I opted for the washers with built in rubber seals which worked very well.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180430_092203.jpg

I decided to wrap my pre cat eliminators while I was at it to reduce the heat in the engine bay.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180430_111526.jpg

The insulation material on the firewall behind my rear turbo was in a very sorry state so I decided to make a simple aluminum heat shield to cover the damaged insulation and provide better shielding.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180430_163555.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180430_163616.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180430_164726.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180430_164739.jpg

For quite a while I've been thinking about changing steering wheel but still keeping the airbag and cruise control. Found this modified gen 2 wheel on eBay which was actually a straight bolt on.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180423_170507.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180423_170521.jpg

[Unlogic]

The gearbox going back in...

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180501_114806.jpg

Moving horn button, cruise control stalk and airbag brackets over from my stock wheel to the new one.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180506_213642.jpg

First pull with the DR750 turbos :oops:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180509_170611.jpg

A later pull with new values in the boost control tables of my Chrome ECU.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180509_195437.jpg

Hitting load values of around 250 now and air flow of around 3000hz. Not bad for a stock longblock, lets hope it lasts the whole summer so that I can finish my forged engine build.

[Unlogic]

Took the car out to the local track today for the first time this season and everything held up really well. The new front diff did wonders in the tight corners.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FQIY9D__k4


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgXXtSQGu-4


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxI53Mm_yUM

[anh165]

First pull with the DR750 turbos :oops:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180509_170611.jpg

A later pull with new values in the boost control tables of my Chrome ECU.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180509_195437.jpg

Hitting load values of around 250 now and air flow of around 3000hz. Not bad for a stock longblock, lets hope it lasts the whole summer so that I can finish my forged engine build.

Yes I am running nearly the same amount of boost but on a 1st gen cast crank engine, the DR750's have no trouble creating boost do they?!

[Unlogic]

They boost really well. I had to put a weaker spring in my Synapse recirculating bov to get rid of the early boost surge. How much boost and timing are you pushing on your cast crank?

[anh165]

I am running 19 - 20 psi, because its a 1st gen engine the timing map is 2-4 degrees less than gen 2 engines, mine is 9 to 17 degrees from 4000-7000 rpm.

I also run 30% toluene with 98 RON fuel to support that boost.

[Unlogic]

That sounds like safe tune in combination with the 30% toluene. Do you mix the toluene directly in the fuel or do you use a separate injector?

[anh165]

Yes it’s quite safe but still makes good power (probably losing 5-8% power running this timing) but I need a 2-4 degree margin in case of lean spots or some bad pump fuel gets in the system.

I just pour toluene straight in after filling up!

[Unlogic]

Pouring toluene directly in the fuel is a very safe setup. The only downside is the your burning toluene when your just cruising but on the other hand there is nothing that can fail unlike in my water/meth setup where various things can cause the system to fail.

[Unlogic]

We had our annual 3000GT meet here in Sweden earlier this week and we managed to gather almost 20 cars this year.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/bigmeet2018/20180606_162235.jpg

As usual the competition was fierce on the track and my new front diff along with the DR750 performed very well.

Here some videos of both a clean run and a aborted run that went a bit wide and almost ended in the bush.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2aqctkJjO8o


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-K6ELrWI-s


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BGHL5oOTiI


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MqkOC3bAY8Y

[stealthee]

Looks like fun.

[Unlogic]

It was plenty of fun but my tires look like this now :rolleyes:

https://i.imgur.com/k9LLnrIr.jpg

[mehrshadvr4]

It was plenty of fun but my tires look like this now :rolleyes:

https://i.imgur.com/k9LLnrIr.jpgWth. Did you locked the brakes at 200mph? Lol

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[Unlogic]

I went sideways with locked up tires at 150 km/h on very rough asphalt, chewed up my tires like they where made out of cheese.

[Unlogic]

I replaced all the stock speakers in my car a few years ago. That gave me great clear sound and decent bass as long as the engine was turned off. When I turned on the engine however the engine sound would muffle all the bass. In order to improve the situation av purchased a Bazooka BTA6250D subwoofer with an integrated 250 watt amplifier.

https://www.bazooka.com/media/catalog/product/b/a/baz-o-bta6100main_1_2_5.jpg

In order to get a signal cable of the exact length I purchased cable and loose connectors.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180801_150703.jpg

Added another cable for the remote signal.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180802_135730.jpg

Routed the cables thought the drivers side cable tray.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180802_194957.jpg

The quick connect cables on the amplifier which simplifies the process of removing the subwoofer during track events etc.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180803_195047.jpg

The finished result with the subwoofer mounted by straps to the back of my battery box.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180803_235321.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180803_235331.jpg

[IPD]

I never did get a sub in my 3/s. I did replace the 8" ported one (looks a lot like yours) with a 10" sealed downfiring one...and the results were great. But the 3/s does have less room though.

[Unlogic]

Here is an overdue update.

I've been planning for some time to upgrade from my 8,5" rims with 245 tires to something a bit wider. I was pretty sure that this would require widebody front fenders so I bought a set of "Cianci" labeled widebody fenders from a Russian guy selling them on Instagram.

When the package arrived it looked lite it had been through a couple of world wars but luckily the fenders inside were okay.


http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180806_170712.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180806_171952.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180806_173506.jpg

Those who have been following this thread might remember that I participated in a hill climb competition last year. I really liked the concept so this year I contacted the organization which arranges the event and asked if I could invite the members of the Sweidsh 3000GT club. Said and done 9 members participated in the event even though some of the didn't bring their 3000GT's for various reasons. So we had Audi Q7, Evo X and a Ford Focus RS among us for that reason. The Audi Q7 did bloody well to be honest!

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180817_160644.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180818_094847.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180818_120634.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/39442661_2179111245700185_4148876453032755200_o.jp g
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/39467419_2179104392367537_1874324148881195008_o.jp g


Last year I won my class at this event on the second day. This year I matched my best time from last year in the first run I did but the competition was even faster. After studying the competition I realized the other drivers where launching their cars while I was not.

I rarely launch my car but I decided to give it a try on the second race day and right away I set the fastest time in the whole class.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PZdoVHn4Ok


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSqwDS5sfzA

During my last run I launch the car again but a bit harder this time. This caused my ABS to light up the warning light and disable itself which I didn't notice until it was time to break after the main straight...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BdwkMuQ30xo&t=40

I killed all four of my Michel Pilot Supersport tires right there and then...

[Unlogic]

Last season I had the line to the boost solenoid connected after the water methanol injector nozzle. This caused all sorts of nasty corrosion in various places so I moved the connection on the y-pipe before the nozzle and replaced all the lines and the waste gate actuators last winter. However I didn't replace the solenoid which proved to be a mistake because the day before the hill climb competition it jammed in the middle of race session on the local circuit which cause me to reach 1,77 bar of boost well before 4000 rpm (!). Luckily the overboost alarm on the LCDBC saved me so I caught the issue right away.

I managed to get the solenoid working again at the track by flushing it with WD40 and moving the plunger inside of it with a small piece of steel wire. However I didn't want to risk it jamming again so I ordered a new one and while I was at it I removed the bracket which used to hold the resistor pack for the fuel injectors.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180826_203655.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180826_204954.jpg

Since my tires where now trashed for the second time this season I decided to buy wider rims. And too my surprise the 18X9.5 ET30 rims with 265/35/18 tires fit just flush with car both front and rear without the need for any widebody fenders as long as I kept the camber above 2.2° on all four tires. They also cleared my Öhlins coil overs in the front, not by much only 3 mm but it should be enough.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180828_102907.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180828_200339.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180831_195606.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180831_195611.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180831_211059.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180916_192936.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180916_192948.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180916_193106.jpg

[Unlogic]

However there was one issue, the rear tires rubbing again the lip inside the fenders.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180901_154423.jpg

So in order to fix that I got myself on of these fender rolling tools.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180901_121341.jpg

However it seemed to be made for SUV's because with my short Öhlins coilovers the tool was way too long.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180902_094716.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180902_101109.jpg

I ended up modifying the tool in order so that it sits further down on the wheel hub.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180902_121817.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180902_123226.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180902_123231.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180902_123654.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180902_125303.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180902_145143.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180902_145954.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180902_155539.jpg

In the end the tool fitted properly and I got started on the fender rolling.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180902_162639.jpg

The fender rolling halfway through, all I needed was to angle up the lip so I didn't roll the fenders as much as most people on the net do.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180903_174703.jpg

Finished everything up with a wheel alignment since adjusting the camber on our cars affects the toe quite a lot.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20180907_132237.jpg

[vitalivr4]

Great job and thanks for updates. I am enjoying to follow your car projects. Keep it up.

[NOMIEZVR4]

wow can believe i never read this thread...glad I did. Its a great read!

[Unlogic]

I remember that there was some discussions in this thread a few years back when I built my rear diffuser regarding if it would work or not without a flat underbody. On that subject I find the article below very interesting:

https://www.verus-engineering.com/single-post/2019/01/10/Is-a-Flat-Underbody-Necessary-for-a-Rear-Diffuser-to-Work

[Unlogic]

I haven't updated this thread in a long time so here is a quick resume of this season.

During the winter months I rebuilt a rare B4H hyrid wisco/torsen differential which I installed to cure the problem with my rear inner tire spinning during tight corners on some tracks. Big thanks to André Gysler who sold me this diff, they are not easy to find.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20181002_211052.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20181002_211926.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20181221_021046.jpg

The housing that the diff came in was in very bad shape and the bearing themselves in even worse shape. The bearings races had spun inside the case so I ended having to buy another diff and use the housing from that one and make a complete rebuild with new bearing and seals.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190309_120929.jpg

While I was at it I installed a billet cover on the new diff
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20181106_180650.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20181106_180701.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190316_122849.jpg

The rebuild of the diff went smoothly but when I tried to install the right hand driveshaft I hit a snag...

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190316_202320.jpg

The hybrid diff uses a different driveshaft for the right side without the extension the normally protrudes into the visco diff. So I had to make a hybrid driveshaft using part from both a left and right driveshaft in order to get an axle that fitted properly.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190605_145254.jpg

Here is a video of the wheel spin problem I had with the stock Visco diff.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0saF10a-94

[Unlogic]

My old copper radiator had worked well on even the track ever since I bought the car but the corrosion on it was getting very bad. Mitsubishi doesn't sell the copper version them anymore so I opted for a Mishimoto radiator which wasn't exactly bolt on but eventually fitted like I wanted too.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190103_155316.jpg

The radiator came with these ports for the gen 1 cars which I wasn't going to use so I had them welded shut to reduce the risk of leaks.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190103_155405.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190104_142959.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190104_143738.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190104_222326.jpg

Next up I made new upper mounts since the stock ones don't fit with this radiator.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190105_002317.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190105_003209.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190105_004905.jpg

[Unlogic]

While ananlysing some logs from last season I noticed that my Denso supra pump was having a hard time keeping up on high boost, high RPM pulls where I could see the fuel pressure falling relative to the boost. Installed a Walbro 450 in the stock hanger and thought was the end of the story.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190323_081921.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190323_134601.jpg

But the Walbro 450 flowed too much for the stock return line so I ended up having to redo everything and removing all the stock lines, running new lines and add return pipe to the fuel hat.


http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190408_234705.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190410_233721.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190413_121744.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190413_191731.jpg

The stock plastic cover for the lines under that car had seen better days so I opted for a skillard cover instead.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190408_231204.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190415_202336.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190415_205634.jpg

[Unlogic]

The front tow hooks on these cars are no easy to access in stock form and my splitter and low ride height didn't make it any better so instead I opted for a hidden strap instead. It saved a good bit of weight too.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190209_144122.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190209_151428.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190209_173319.jpg

[Unlogic]

I've previously used long bolts, spacers and a heap of washers. This was a hassle to fit every time the splitter has to come off so instead I had these stainless standoffs machines and the threaded them into the chassis of the car with loctite.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190127_141749.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190127_144942.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190127_155246.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190131_095541.jpg

[Unlogic]

Modified some of my intercooler piping for better fitment and flow.
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190113_092734.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190114_223809.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190117_002235.jpg

Replaced my Retro spec combat wing with a OEM 99 wing to get rid of the flapping at high speed.
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20181221_152813.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20181221_153736.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20181223_081528.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20181223_122115.jpg

[Unlogic]

The drive of the season was to a local exhibition where my car placed in the booth of the local racing club for the weekend to promote their races.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190329_103543.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190329_103551.jpg

The first time on the track for the season went really good until I boiled my 4 years old RBF600 brake fluid which I had forgot to replace... this is how the old oil looked like.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190601_110828.jpg

And this is how I did on the track:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eYhHHKpvmWM

[Unlogic]

During that first race I noticed that the car was pushing coolant and the problem got worse as the summer progressed so I ended up taking a set of heads from my spare engine and having them ported and head lift fixed.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190727_000135.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190727_000154.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190727_000217~2.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190727_000232~2.jpg

While I was at it I installed a fluid damper.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190729_133429.jpg

I had a breather for the TC machined to prevent the oil from being spewed out via the breather.

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190530_004552.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190530_112018.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190531_144600.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190604_223729.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190604_225946.jpg

[Unlogic]

Ordered a new shift knob and e-brake handle from Midnight Innovations in the US... a few days later I received this in the mail from Pakistan:

http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190628_134705.jpg
http://pics.unlogic.se/3000gt/projekt/IMG_20190628_164810.jpg

Emailed them about the lack of quality but got no reply what so ever. Stay away from that shop.

[mehrshadvr4]

Dude you should make more of that tc breather. I want one too.
You should try smaller steering wheel. You'll notice more feeling through the wheel and quicker response on top of that.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[Unlogic]

That was my plan but the machinist who did it for me said it was too time consuming to make and that I would need to have them CNC made in order to able to make them in larger volumes. My connections regarding CNC machining are very limited so I'm hoping that some of the 3S vendor might pick up on the idea and start making them.

[mehrshadvr4]

Yeah can't believe no one has made a kit for us even though it's an issue.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[fastfalcon94]

Subscribing. Nice work. That sucks about interior-innovations. They never replied to me when I emailed them to clarify some stuff before placing an order. Ridies is another company that makes them, but it probably all comes from the same spot:

https://ridies.com/Product/26743/1991-99-Mitsubishi-3000GT-Genuine-Leather-Shift-Knob-E-Brake-Handle

[Unlogic]

Yea I've realized that essentially all e-brake handles and knobs comes from the same place in Pakistan nowdays. They even use the same pictures on most sites selling them. I think I'll have to look for a custom solution and have them made locally instead.

[vitalivr4]

Unlogic have you noticed any improvement with rear hybrid lsd?

[Unlogic]

The read diff made a surprisingly big difference. The rear is more planted both under accelerion and braking especially on slightly uneven tracks. Previously on uneven tracks I would spin the rear inner tire durimg corner exits and lock up the rear inner tire when braking into tight corners.

The tire spin is heavily reduced now and the lockup under braking completely gone. I think I might have some before and after videos I could show you.

[vitalivr4]

Thank you, i have the same rear diff and my car is still under the knife i cant wait to get it back on the road.

[Jimvr4]

Yea I've realized that essentially all e-brake handles and knobs comes from the same place in Pakistan nowdays. They even use the same pictures on most sites selling them. I think I'll have to look for a custom solution and have them made locally instead.Robert, years ago I replaced the e brake handle with the stock part. Not sure if it is still available

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[Unlogic]

Thank you, i have the same rear diff and my car is still under the knife i cant wait to get it back on the road.

Did you get the driveshafts with your diff?

I'd really like a close up pictures of the driveshaft on the right side. Particularly the end that goes into the diff. I had to make my own Frankenstein driveshaft and I'm not sure if it's full engaging all the splines.


Robert, years ago I replaced the e brake handle with the stock part. Not sure if it is still available

Good idea Jim, I'll have to check!

I know that the shifter knob isn't available any longer because I tried to buy one a few weeks ago.

[tstkl]

This is a great build. Thanks for sending me over here from 3si (sdktheta). I read your whole build as well as some history on why this place exists in the first place. I've been wondering how on earth someone so instrumental like Alan could have been banned from 3si, so it's good to finally somewhat understand why. Keep the updates coming and let me know if you happen upon a spare B3H or B4H! By the way, I know the 1g dsm can accept an evo 8 rear LSD, it would be interesting to see if the 3/s could as well. That would at least open up options for plebians like myself who can't get their hands on a Hybrid.

[Unlogic]

The Evo and DSM cars use a physically smaller diff housing and gears so I doubt that their LSD's would fit in a 3/S diff. But on the other I don't know if anyone has looked into it. What I do know is that high horsepower DSV/Evo's replace the whole rear diff with a complete 3/S diff instead since they are much stronger.

We should contact someone like Supercar engineering and see if the the hybrid diff could be reverse engineered or if a similar torsen diff from another platform could be adapted to fit in our rear diffs.

[stealthee]

My buddy has a 3s 6 speed diff in his AWD auto DSM.

[anyonebutme]

Kaaz makes a 3S rear diff, and when set up correctly is OK for street use. The come practically locked up factory with so much breakaway torque in case you wanna use it for drifting, lol.

The magic of the hybrid diff is it's not just a ATB diff, but it's an ATB gear diff with a small VCU in the center of it to prevent it from going full open when a wheel is on a slick surface like apex curbs or in the air. No other ATB gear diff I have ever come across is like that, not even the BMW E46 M3 diff, and it makes a difference. So even if another torsen is made I would put in a Kaaz before it because I could then tune it to my use and have a diff that can put down much more power mid turn.

[Unlogic]

Good summary anyonebutme!

The maintenance and adjustments required by clutch based LSD's along with the lack of "intelligence" is the reason why I spent years hunting down one a hybrid diffs. I wanted something as maintenance free as possible.

My friend has a Kaaz rear diff in his Skyline R32 and it's locking much rougher than my hybrid diff. His diff always locks even when there is very little torque applied for example when parking it likes to chew the tires quite a bit. My diff is much smoother even in those situations even thought it can chew tires too it seldom happens if I'm not applying torque or engine braking hard into a corner.

[anyonebutme]

Yea with the Kaaz the trick is to rearrange the clutches to deactivate about half of them, I'd personally would aim for 200-250 in lbs of breakaway but 150 would make it quiet even while parking. I gave up years ago trying to find the hybrid diff, and the one I did find the guy wanted 2K bucks for it without the axles, lol.

[Unlogic]

Yea not only are the hybrid diffs rare but many people forget to save the axles when the pull these diffs of the JDM cars which came with them. I really banged my head on that for a while before I managed to build my frankenstien axle.

[2fnloud]

So the axles for the hybrids are different than the regular rear diffs?

[Unlogic]

Yes, at least the right side is completely different from the one used in the standard visco diff.

[OldMadBrit]

I have just put a KAAZ diff in mine. The critical part is the break-in procedure. Mine went in at the same time as the new motor and AEM S2 ECU, so we ended up putting about 300 miles of dyno and street tuning miles miles on it. I made the mistake of thinking that it was therefore broken-in. It clanked, popped and banged its way through urban driving so bad that I thought it had broken a plate or three. Three point turns and parking lots were a nightmare.

So I called KAAZ directly and they were very helpful. They suggested doing their break-in procedure, which is 30 minutes of driving "figure 8's" making sure to free-wheel through every turn, only have power on in the straight parts. Then change the oil. KAAZ recommended Torco 85/140 (because I'm in California) + a bottle of Ford LSD friction modifier.

I did the figure 8's yesterday and made sure to do it for a good 40 minutes (man that gets old quick) then I changed the oil this morning - it was filthy, stank of molybdenum-disulphide and full of LSD clutch plate fines.

It has made a huge difference and I'm really pleased that I did this before pulling the diff. My KAAZ is silent in urban driving now. I can just barely feel it in very tight low speed maneuvering.

[vitalivr4]

So the axles for the hybrids are different than the regular rear diffs?
in hybrid diff you have to use the stock rear short axles on both sides.

[2fnloud]

in hybrid diff you have to use the stock rear short axles on both sides.

Still as expensive as they are, I don't think I need to worry about that.

[Unlogic]

I did quite a bit of racing this season both before and after I swapped the heads. Here are some videos of various events.

The first event of the season, first time on the track with 9,5" rims, 265 wide tires and 3° of camber. Car drove great but I hadn't rolled the rear fenders enough so I almost thrashed my rear tires. As a stroke of sheer luck I boiled my several years old brake fluid to the point where it started spraying out of the reservoir in the engine bay. But during the pit sop that followed I noticed the rubbing on the tires before it was too late.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eYhHHKpvmWM


The annual Swedish 3000GT meet doing high speed autocross on a airfield that we had rented. This was my last event before I swapped heads, coolant pushing was getting excessive.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YTso_nYFv0


JapDays, a large Swedish JDM at a big and fast track. I worked on the car for 4 days straight in order to get the new heads on in time for this event. The new ported and welded heads worked great and I even pulled away from a few R35 GTR's on the straights. Lots of dirt on the track however due to the drifting sessions that alternated with the racing sessions.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJXAwtk6auQ


The annual hill climb event that I always participate in. I've ran this event for years and for the first time I really had the diffs to keep the power down during the whole ascent. I finished 3rd on the first race day and 2nd on the second race day. Not shabby for a car with full interior and air conditioning.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIJPplRgGco


End of the season for public driving on my local race track. The rain poured down during the whole day and even though I took it easy nobody manage to keep my pace. Our cars are really good in the wet.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGpna-TOVw4

[chooch]

Good to see you having fun with your car, I like the view from behind with the diffuser...