Want to learn how to Powder Coat?

[99ishVR-4]

After powder coating for about a year now, I have decided to start a Powder Coating Guide to help people start out. I did it in blog form because I don't know how to make a website not look like a 5 year old made it. The reason I started it is because while there is a lot of information on the internet about powder coating, a lot of it is spread out and there are a lot of sites just stating the same old things that weren't really helpful at all. I haven't even touched on how to powder coat yet as its basically brand new but I plan on adding information everyday.

A couple months after I started powder coating, I started getting really good results and considering how expensive it is to have everything you want powder coated on your car, doing it yourself can definitely save you some money and it turned out to be a fun little hobby.

If you want to check out the site: Powder Coating- The Complete Guide (http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/)

Please feel free to leave me feedback, this is the first blog I have ever made, and I know some people on here are web designers. If the layout or anything looks dumb, please let me know.

If you like the site or plan on getting into powder coating, you can subscribe so you will get all the updates as I post them.

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[99ishVR-4]

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[thor'svr4]

very cool. one quick question though, when you apply 2 powders (color and clear) do you apply both colors at once then bake the part or do you apply color then bake then apply clear then bake a 2nd time?

[99ishVR-4]

very cool. one quick question though, when you apply 2 powders (color and clear) do you apply both colors at once then bake the part or do you apply color then bake then apply clear then bake a 2nd time?

If it is a normal color like black, red, blue, etc I would spray the first color and bake it for 75% of the cure time, take the part out of the oven and let it cool down. Attach ground, then shoot 2nd color and bake for 2nd colors full cure time. This allows the 2 coats to crosslink to each other. Not doing it this way can cause delamination of the 2nd coat.

If its a chrome or candy color, you would fully cure the first coat, let it cure, completely cool, shoot the 2nd coat and full cure it again. This does have a higher risk of delamination but not doing it this way causes a fine cracking appearance in the chrome.

[CoopKill]

Cool, thanks for posting!

[99ishVR-4]

No problem, thanks for reading. Feel free to post comments on my blog as well if you have any more questions. I am getting more traffic than I thought on it, but still waiting for my first commenter lol.

[stealthknight619]

I could definitely use this on my 92TT restoration and for other applications. Thanks for posting!!

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[99ishVR-4]

I could definitely use this on my 92TT restoration and for other applications. Thanks for posting!!

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2


Restoring my 92 vr-4 is exactly why I got into it in the first place, definitely happy I went with powder over spray paint and I have no experience real paint. Also am glad I am doing it myself as just what I have done so far would have been 10 times what I have spent in materials. You'll be glad you did as long as you take the time to learn it.

[Street_Chally73]

Nice write-up! I'm just about to start doing this myself (Eastwood's dual voltage gun kit) & I already have a huge list of items I wish to coat...No more spray-bombing for this guy!

[DocWalt]

Nice read! Thanks for the info :)

[HLxDrummer]

Good info on that page, thanks. Hope you continue to expand it.

I do have a question for you: When I was powdercoating my calipers I had a few difficulties. One was getting a good ground on them. I just had one metal hanger through the mounting hole. Is this good enough? I did not ground the rack to the earth as you did but may try it.

A bigger problem was getting even coverage. In order to get the powder to stick in the crevices, I had to turn down the voltage (or it would stick to the edges) but then it was very easily blown off. How do you decide on air pressure/voltage?

Lastly, do you pre-heat your parts before coating them? I heated mine to temperature to get all the "crap out" (and there was a lot of crap), let it cool, cleaned it, then warmed it before spraying on the powder.

How many coats do you do on a typical part and how thick do you lay it? I thought I was going to light so I laid it on one time and got a run in the oven! I did two decent coats on my calipers but I am starting to see a little rust develop on some edges of the back calipers.

When I baked mine I started the timer as soon as I shut the door so I might not have baked it enough. Also did have it grounded to earth/etc.

I would really like to cut down on the time it takes me and get better at getting even coverage/etc as I would like to powdercoat basically my entire car eventually LOL

Thank you!!

[99ishVR-4]

Good info on that page, thanks. Hope you continue to expand it.

I do have a question for you: When I was powdercoating my calipers I had a few difficulties. One was getting a good ground on them. I just had one metal hanger through the mounting hole. Is this good enough? I did not ground the rack to the earth as you did but may try it.

A bigger problem was getting even coverage. In order to get the powder to stick in the crevices, I had to turn down the voltage (or it would stick to the edges) but then it was very easily blown off. How do you decide on air pressure/voltage?

Lastly, do you pre-heat your parts before coating them? I heated mine to temperature to get all the "crap out" (and there was a lot of crap), let it cool, cleaned it, then warmed it before spraying on the powder.

How many coats do you do on a typical part and how thick do you lay it? I thought I was going to light so I laid it on one time and got a run in the oven! I did two decent coats on my calipers but I am starting to see a little rust develop on some edges of the back calipers.

When I baked mine I started the timer as soon as I shut the door so I might not have baked it enough. Also did have it grounded to earth/etc.

I would really like to cut down on the time it takes me and get better at getting even coverage/etc as I would like to powdercoat basically my entire car eventually LOL

Thank you!!

Thanks, I will definitely continue with it.

When I ground a part, It usually has at least one bolt hole, this is where I always try to ground. I have quite an assortment of extra bolts for this car so I just use those since they will get powder coated. Make sure you clean the bolt along with the part if you go this route. I will usually thread the bolt in a little, and hang the part from this bolt, I wrap picture hanging wire around the bolt and make a little loop and hang that on my rack. Or I will just clip my alligator clip right to the bolt if the part is too heavy to hang from the wire. This bolt method is good for 2 reasons, It contacts the part very well, unlike a hook. And if I am doing 2 coats, I will make 2 loops of picture hanging wire and wrap a piece of tape around one. After the first coat, I just take off the tape and I still have a clean, bare metal ground to attach to(the ground wont work for 2nd coats if you are grounding to an area that is powder coated, you need to get to bare metal somehow).

Having a good ground also helps with your 2nd issue. When powder refuses to spray into a corner or crevice, this is called a faraday cage effect. I honestly don't know the science behind why, but somehow the area actually resists electrical fields and your powder. There are a couple ways around this:

The best way is a good gun that has a faraday wave board option, this is in the $1000 range so I don't have one. This magical device is supposed to solve this issue.

You can also heat up the part to around 150 degrees if you can tell its going to have these issues. You can look a part and see that some areas are going to be no fun to get powder into. So just stick it in the oven and let it get to around 150, pull it out, do not connect the ground at all, only spray the crevices and areas you expect to have issues with. Then wait for it to cool back to room temp, hook up your ground and spray as usual. If you are already in the middle of coating an item and you don't want to blow it all off and start over, you can actually use a heat gun and heat up the faraday areas, spray them and let the part cool down before you continue coating. The heating method does offer a fix, but the coating can get thick whenever you heat a part up.

If you refuse to heat up a part, you can spray these faraday areas first, I have actually made a little paper nozzel to stick on the end of my gun to spray these areas. After you spray the areas, then just coat the rest as normal.

I definitely run my parts through a heat cycle before coating. Cast iron and aluminum will get pre-heated every time. My process is: degrease, bake, degrease again, sandblast, blow off with air, clean with denatured alcohol, let dry and wipe off any fuzzies or dust with a clean paint brush. Then I'm ready to coat. I bake the parts 50 degrees higher than what the powder cures at. So if it cures at 350, then I bake at 400, if it cures at 400, then I bake at 450. The bake time depends on how big the part is, if small, I bake for 30 minutes, if it is large, I'll bake for an hour. You can actually see the part smoking in the oven. If it is still smoking even after an hour, you need to leave it is no longer smoking.

I normally spray one coat, I find if the coating is too thick, it is way easier to chip. If I am doing gloss black or chromes, I will add a clear coat. Sometimes I run into an issue called edge pull, where the powder actually does not stick to the sharp corners, if this happens, I will do another coat. This may be why your calipers started rusting, could you still see a very fine line of metal on the corners? Also for something like calipers or any steel or iron parts that will be subjected to water like that. I will pretreat the metal with an iron phosphate called surecoat 915. This serves as a 2nd defense if your powder coat gets chipped or anything. It will stop the rust from spreading underneath the powder coat and keep it confined to just that one chipped area.

If you started the timer as soon as you shut the door, I can almost guarantee they are undercured. If undurcured, the powder will not stand up to abuse like it should. Unfortunately, you may have to do them again one day not too far away, but when done right, they should hold up great for years.

I know where you are coming from. The process definitely takes a long time when you are new. I remember starting a batch of like 5 small parts, and by the time I was done, 5 hours had passed. For me, it is the masking that eats the time up. Just keep doing it and you will get faster at it. There are little tricks to get faster though, and I will be posting them on the site. But basically, just make sure you or organized, think of everything you need to do in the process before you start and organize accordingly.

[HLxDrummer]

Great post man I appreciate it!

I remember reading about the Faraday Cage thing. I think the issue is the powder has a + charge and the part has - and whenever you spray into those cracks it doesn't have enough momentum to overcome the electrostatic attraction to the edges surrounding the crack. If you crank up the air pressure it goes in but it'll blow away after a while... I like your idea of keeping it warm. I had to do that with my calipers but I had the ground attached and tried to do them all while it remained warm. Should have let it cool like you said.

Ya I definitely saw smoking. Calipers looked nasty after heating them the first time, haha

I don't think my issue was edge peel.. if you look at them it just looks like a little bit of red tinted clear over a few corners. Like it was super thin. But no peeling or cracking or anything.

I'll have to look up how the iron phosphate works.. Do you have to clean it off? Leave it on and PC overtop?

Hopefully they cured enough that they will last if I am careful. It was a lot of work taking them apart/prepping/etc especially when it is my only car lol It may have helped that the part was already warm when I put it in as a mentioned, though.

My Dad actually found a massive oven that you can probably fit a rear subframe in (already has insulation and everything), just need to find a way to heat that sucker! Right now I'm using a double oven that I was going to chop the center out of but I think I'm just going to maybe get a bunch of oven coil to put in this new box...

Thanks again!

[Dbeltran24]

If it is a normal color like black, red, blue, etc I would spray the first color and bake it for 75% of the cure time, take the part out of the oven and let it cool down. Attach ground, then shoot 2nd color and bake for 2nd colors full cure time. This allows the 2 coats to crosslink to each other. Not doing it this way can cause delamination of the 2nd coat.

If its a chrome or candy color, you would fully cure the first coat, let it cure, completely cool, shoot the 2nd coat and full cure it again. This does have a higher risk of delamination but not doing it this way causes a fine cracking appearance in the chrome.

In regards to two stage paints, I have encountered an issue with dormant blue tgic color. After multiple tries (partial cooking, applying both coats at the same time, fully cooking both coats seperately, etc...) I found one method that works. In my experience I had to fully cook the first color, then immediately coat the second color (clear coat) before it cools. If not the dormant color does not come out. I first spray the dromant blue (purple powder), fully cook it (turns chrome), then re-powder with clear while hot (you can see it starts turning purple as you spray), fully cook the part again (turns blue), then repeat clear coat while hot for any areas that do not change colors. I have not experience this issue with any other colors. I'm not sure if this is an issue that only applies to this color or if it applies to all dormant colors.

[99ishVR-4]

Great post man I appreciate it!

I remember reading about the Faraday Cage thing. I think the issue is the powder has a + charge and the part has - and whenever you spray into those cracks it doesn't have enough momentum to overcome the electrostatic attraction to the edges surrounding the crack. If you crank up the air pressure it goes in but it'll blow away after a while... I like your idea of keeping it warm. I had to do that with my calipers but I had the ground attached and tried to do them all while it remained warm. Should have let it cool like you said.

Ya I definitely saw smoking. Calipers looked nasty after heating them the first time, haha

I don't think my issue was edge peel.. if you look at them it just looks like a little bit of red tinted clear over a few corners. Like it was super thin. But no peeling or cracking or anything.

I'll have to look up how the iron phosphate works.. Do you have to clean it off? Leave it on and PC overtop?

Hopefully they cured enough that they will last if I am careful. It was a lot of work taking them apart/prepping/etc especially when it is my only car lol It may have helped that the part was already warm when I put it in as a mentioned, though.


My Dad actually found a massive oven that you can probably fit a rear subframe in (already has insulation and everything), just need to find a way to heat that sucker! Right now I'm using a double oven that I was going to chop the center out of but I think I'm just going to maybe get a bunch of oven coil to put in this new box...

Thanks again!

The iron phosphate that I use can be sprayed or dipped, I have only done the spray so far but I am considering the dip. I dilute it and put it in a bug sprayer type bottle and spray for 30 seconds, and just let the excess run off. After it dries, you can powder coat. This is what I use:

SURCOAT 915 ( 1 gallon ) - $34.95 : Powder365, Customer Service Like No Other (http://powder365.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=349)

I know what you mean about the calipers, the set I pictured I did for a girl that needed her car back the next day. It took me pretty much the entire day to do the job.

Good luck on the oven, it would be awesome to be able to do subframes. I'm pretty sure I will still have to have a shop do mine. I was thinking about trying to hang one side of it in my home oven and build a box around the half that sticks out, I just don't see an easy way to get it in there once it is coated without wiping off powder everywhere.

[99ishVR-4]

For anyone that is following the site, just wanted to let you know that I have been busy for the last week and haven't had much of a chance to work on it, sorry. Will try to get back to it before Friday.

[DK77]

Hey man thanks for taking the time to make this thread and the site and answer questions. You are right there is a lot of info out there but it's hard to find unless you search endlessly. I have done a few sets of intercooler pipes and a couple sets of wheels and have had a blast learning how to make things come out how I want them to.

One question I had for you. Where do you buy the plugs and such that you would use to plug all the holes in a torn-apart brake caliper? I may be taking a shot at my first set of calipers soon and while I have heard you can do them with the seals in, it is better to take them apart. I just need to figure out where to get good masking supplies. Also, do you use high-temp tape that you can bake, and if so where do you get it?

Edit: So after I posted this I actually looked around on the powder365 site and found everything I was asking about. :) Thanks again!

[99ishVR-4]

Hey man thanks for taking the time to make this thread and the site and answer questions. You are right there is a lot of info out there but it's hard to find unless you search endlessly. I have done a few sets of intercooler pipes and a couple sets of wheels and have had a blast learning how to make things come out how I want them to.

One question I had for you. Where do you buy the plugs and such that you would use to plug all the holes in a torn-apart brake caliper? I may be taking a shot at my first set of calipers soon and while I have heard you can do them with the seals in, it is better to take them apart. I just need to figure out where to get good masking supplies. Also, do you use high-temp tape that you can bake, and if so where do you get it?

Edit: So after I posted this I actually looked around on the powder365 site and found everything I was asking about. :) Thanks again!

I spent forever trying to mask the brake caliper piston holes with aluminum foil and high temp tape only to tear it all out because it wasnt going to look clean when done. So because i had all brand new seals, I used the old rubber piston boots to mask the holes and it worked perfectly. As for the plus for bolt holes, I got this kit since they had the best price:
50 HIGH TEMP PLUGS for Powder Coating 5 sizes! (http://www.ohiocustomcoatings.com/servlet/the-229/50-HIGH-TEMP-PLUGS/Detail)

As for the tape, go to epsi.com and get their phone number. Call them and ask for a sample of their orange tape, they will send you a roll free of charge. I will never buy tape from anywhere else as thats great customer service. While it is good to have the hi temp tape just in case, I have been using electrical tape for a lot of masking. If you mask a part and stick it in the oven for a full cure, when you go to remove it, the powder will flake off and you will have a hard edge, so now I stick my parts in the oven and let it get to around 170 degrees, just enough for the powder to be stuck to the part, I then pull the parts out of the oven and pull the masking off gently(dont man handle the parts here). Then stick it back in the oven for a full cure. This wiill give you much cleaner lines for not much more work. If you use a bolt to mask a bolt hole, do the same thing and just back the bolt out a few threads to break the powder connection between the bolt and the part. This way you dont need high temp tape, just make sure you dont leave any other tape in for a full cure as it will be a mess when you go to unmask.

[Boomer3000]

Subbed for awesome thread

[DK77]

Thanks for the tips. I have accidentally left regular masking tape before and you're right it was a mess.

[green-lantern]

I don't think I saw this thread before. Thanks for posting it. I've been thinking of buying a VR4 and doing like your build. My car is a Base converted AWD TT. I've seriously been thinking about getting the VR4 then pulling it's stock engine and putting in my green converted car with stock engine mounts etc. Basically make it stockish VR4ish daily driver. Take all my go fast stuff and resto the VR4. So I'll want to powder coat a bunch of stuff when I do that.

[99ishVR-4]

I don't think I saw this thread before. Thanks for posting it. I've been thinking of buying a VR4 and doing like your build. My car is a Base converted AWD TT. I've seriously been thinking about getting the VR4 then pulling it's stock engine and putting in my green converted car with stock engine mounts etc. Basically make it stockish VR4ish daily driver. Take all my go fast stuff and resto the VR4. So I'll want to powder coat a bunch of stuff when I do that.

No problem, if you checked out the blog, you probably saw that I haven't made an update in a month, sorry about that, the motivation didn't last, but I will still gladly answer all questions here. I remember reading your build thread, because I was planning on doing the welding method on my car at the time. I like your plan, it keeps you driving a vr-4 while you build up another one. I haven't driven mine in 3 years and I am praying that it will be worth it when its done. So many people sell their cars right after a long build and I have never understood why. I still dont, but I just don't want it to happen to me.

[99ishVR-4]

So I have decided to get back into this blog. Bumping the thread for some new posts I made in case anyone is interested.

Powder Coating: The Complete Guide: 8.5 Media Blasting Continued (http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2013/07/media-blasting-continued.html)

[99ishVR-4]

Bump for another couple of new posts.

Powder Coating: The Complete Guide: Welcome to Powder Coating - The Complete Guide (http://powdercoatguide.blogspot.com/2012/11/welcome-to-powder-coating-complete-guide.html)

[DocWalt]

Still awesome, thanks for the guide :)

[99ishVR-4]

Still awesome, thanks for the guide :)

No problem man, new update today.

[green-lantern]

Good to see your motivation has returned, at least for the blog. Any updates with the car?

[99ishVR-4]

Good to see your motivation has returned, at least for the blog. Any updates with the car?

Yeah, there are some updates. I really need to get on that thread. I spent a good hour one night typing up a post, adding pictures and then my browser crashed so I just went to bed, lol. I will get on it.

[99ishVR-4]

So who all is powder coating these days?

[green-lantern]

My buddy Coop (DCIV) just dropped off a huge powdercoating oven at my house so me and him will be doing a bunch before long.

[DrGonzo]

Great write up!! I'll be doing some coating once I get into a garage. Good to see I'll have minimal research to do as you have it all right here! :p

[99ishVR-4]

My buddy Coop (DCIV) just dropped off a huge powdercoating oven at my house so me and him will be doing a bunch before long.

Nice, You haven't even started coating yet and you already have a big oven, I'm still working out of a little home oven, lol. Did coop make the oven?


Great write up!! I'll be doing some coating once I get into a garage. Good to see I'll have minimal research to do as you have it all right here! :p

Thanks, its still far from complete but for now, it should have plenty of info to help you get set up.

[99ishVR-4]

Several new articles posted on the site since I have last updated this thread. The newest one explains several different methods of keeping your compressed air dry.
Powder Coating: The Complete Guide: How to Dry Compressed Air (http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/06/how-to-dry-compressed.html#.U6QzP0B6HrQ)

[99ishVR-4]

Just an update on the powder coating guide. I have several articles planned out but I want your guys input on what kind of article that would really help you out. Basically let me know what topic you would like me to cover next.

The articles in planning are:

Defect Center: I will take pictures of every kind of defect you will encounter while powder coating, and let you know what it is and how to correct it.

Air compressor plumbing around the garage

Multi-coats: how to properly do 2 or more coats.

[DK77]

Defect Center is the one I'd like to see most. How to do multiple coats would be nice too but I already have done several projects with multiple coats. Doesn't mean there aren't some good tips to pick up though.

[99ishVR-4]

So I got a little off track with the upcoming articles, I just posted a new article: How to Build a Powder Coating Oven. It is part 1 of 2. Part 2 should be coming next week. Check it out here: Powder Coating: The Complete Guide: How to Build a Powder Coating Oven (http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html)

[DrGonzo]

So I got a little off track with the upcoming articles, I just posted a new article: How to Build a Powder Coating Oven. It is part 1 of 2. Part 2 should be coming next week. Check it out here: Powder Coating: The Complete Guide: How to Build a Powder Coating Oven (http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven.html)

Very nice article on building the oven! Can't wait to see the rest.

I've been thinking about getting into this down the road and was just going to start with an old household oven and small parts. Good to see this is easy enough to build incase I want to build a dedicated oven at some point. I could pretty much use the parts from the old oven and just build the case if need be, save some money that way.

[TurboSinceBirth]

Very well written articles. I found myself reading more than one. I will definitely have to keep it for future reference. I'd love to build one similar size but between that and the sandblasting equipment I just don't have the room.

[DrGonzo]

Very well written articles. I found myself reading more than one. I will definitely have to keep it for future reference. I'd love to build one similar size but between that and the sandblasting equipment I just don't have the room.

yeah, my garage is starting to run out of wall space with all my stuff, Sandblasting cabinet, welding section, Hydro dip tank, Beer fridge, etc....

[99ishVR-4]

Very nice article on building the oven! Can't wait to see the rest.

I've been thinking about getting into this down the road and was just going to start with an old household oven and small parts. Good to see this is easy enough to build incase I want to build a dedicated oven at some point. I could pretty much use the parts from the old oven and just build the case if need be, save some money that way.

I currently have just a household oven and I have gotten pretty far with it. I was thinking about making an oven which just combines 2 household ovens, that would be big enough for the front subframe but not the rear. I have started part 2, should be posted by the end of this week. I'll post up when its done.


Very well written articles. I found myself reading more than one. I will definitely have to keep it for future reference. I'd love to build one similar size but between that and the sandblasting equipment I just don't have the room.

Thanks, I sometimes wonder if I am writing them a little to dull so its good to hear that they are readable at least. I really try to just stick to the point and leave out all of the fluff.




yeah, my garage is starting to run out of wall space with all my stuff, Sandblasting cabinet, welding section, Hydro dip tank, Beer fridge, etc....

I definitely hear you on the room. There is never enough room in the garage. I wish I could find a 2 bedroom house with a 5 car garage. I would move there in a second. I'll probably get banned off the forum for saying this, but you could always replace the beer fridge, lol.

[99ishVR-4]

How to Build a Powder Coating Oven - Part II is out now: Powder Coating: The Complete Guide: How to Build a Powder Coating Oven Part II (http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/09/how-to-build-powder-coating-oven-part-ii.html#.VCVScuW6PxU)

[CoopKill]

Will have to check this out when on my laptop!

[99ishVR-4]

If you would like some clarification on the exact steps needed to prep a part for powder coating, check out this article: Prepping for Powder Coating - Step by Step (http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014/12/prepping-for-powder-coating-step-by-step.html#.VJCDY2c09SM)

Also feel free to ask your powder coating questions.

[99ishVR-4]

Finally a new article after a long break.

Learn the correct spraying techniques and how to overcome orange peel and other defects when powder coating.

Powder Coating: The Complete Guide: How to Spray Powder Coat (http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2015/05/how-to-spray-powder-coat.html)

7933

[99ishVR-4]

Just finished a new article. Learn how to spray multiple coats. Also covers 2 tones and fades. Powder Coating: The Complete Guide: Spraying Multiple Coats (http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2015/07/spraying-multiple-coats.html#.Vbj3mrWz5kE)