6.75 Components up front?

[n2nsanity]

I'm thinking about trying these up front.

Rockford Fosgate Punch P1675-S 6-3/4" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P1675S/Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P1675-S.html)

Figure out a way to mount these tweeters in the dash.
I want to take the oem plastic mounting plate thing off and mount the speakers directly to the door.
Use 6.75 baffles with a decent hole cut out of the bottom so they can breathe better.

I currently have the 6.5 rf primes and not too happy with the sound. Also the grille hits the mid/tweeter so the door panel can't be screwed all the way in.

Anyone have any experience or opinions on these speakers? Or about my plans?

[2fnloud]

Until, you take the time so properly sound deaden and seal the door the best you can, you will never get the sound you are looking for. You honestly think that .25" is going to make that big of a difference?

I would still plan on making a baffle to mount the speaker to then mount the baffle to the door.

[IPD]

the biggest problem you run into on any door speaker upgrade is the depth of the magnet. unless you never plan on rolling your window down, you will need to take that into consideration--especially because larger diameter speakers tend to have greater mount depth. just keep that in mind. i know some people who have FG'd a "protruding" mount on the doors, just to compensate for this.

[2fnloud]

That a 6.75" speaker has about the same depth as a 6.5"

[IPD]

That a 6.75" speaker has about the same depth as a 6.5"

depends on brand, features, performance (bass response, etc). my 6.5" TS-D's barely clear. if i'd mounted directly to door, rather than to the plastic mount, they'd have scraped/hit

[n2nsanity]

Rockford Fosgate, r1653 vs p1675-s

It's not about the size, but placement, fitment, 40w more power rating, and going from 3ways to components. Frequency response is about the same for both.
I think I lose a lot of the mids/highs being that placed that low. Having tweeters in the dash would be more effective than near the floor right?

Then there's the issue of door panel fitment. Door panels don't fit properly because the mids/highs are protruding into the grilles.
Mounting speakers directly to the doors should fix this and also give the cones more travel.
I think 6.75's will be just big enough for me to mount them directly to the door where the 6.5's are just a hair too small.

I'm using baffles on the current speakers and would be using baffles on the new ones also.
I'm already using sound deadening sheets.

Baffles and sound deadening should prevent any rattle due to being mounted directly to metal.
Since they can handle more power, I feel better about running my amp to them.
Clearance shouldn't be an issue.
Just wondering if anyone has any experience with these particular speakers and if this is a good or bad idea.

[IPD]

don't use the stock door grills. or cut out the spider-webs on them to make more room. i've done both previously.

[n2nsanity]

Don't think the grilles will be a problem if i mount speakers directly to the door. Especially when I no longer have highs/mids poking out in the middle. Even still I think the surround is a little wider than the grille, especially with 6.75's. So if that were the issue, I'd have to remove the stock grilles entirely and also cut out part of the door panels. Hoping to avoid all this by mounting speakers directly to the door. Maybe even behind somehow if there's room.

Noone has any experience with these? I read some reviews which were all good, but I'm also interested more in the install process. Like more details about the built-in crossovers and how you connect the tweeters. Or how well this crossover works. And if it's better to have the bulkier external crossovers instead.

[2fnloud]

don't use the stock door grills. or cut out the spider-webs on them to make more room. i've done both previously.

Thadd, how much space / gap is there between the door card and the door's frame?

[2fnloud]

I will be mounting these in my Door, Dash, & "A" Pillar:

http://i.seimg.net/images/1285/main/sc8365.jpg

[Streamln1]

where did you find eclipse speakers available new? They have been out of business for a while.

[2fnloud]

where did you find eclipse speakers available new? They have been out of business for a while.

E-bay 187.00 shipped, bought both set that the person had and put one set in my Saturn running off only the head unit, sounded FANTASTIC, can not wait to get my other set in my Stealth.

[Streamln1]

Ya I miss their product line...they made fantastic stuff...stupid recession.

[2fnloud]

I know, was a sad day when they closed up shop. I don't know what is worse, holding on to your mission statement to produce fantastic car audio equipment, or cheapen everything to go the way of say Clarion.

[Streamln1]

I actually have had good luck with the new Clarion stuff, especially their Nav pieces. Theres good and bad out there, unfortunately, its all china now....at least some of them keep a standard of quality.

[duke3k]

I never even contemplated 6.75's....

I've got these in my '98vr4 and the Same one's are in Gayle's '95Spyder - we like the sound.

Focal Access 6.5" 165A1's 2way Component Speakers

http://casadiaz.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/spyder-speakers-002-lr.jpg

[2fnloud]

Absolutely NOTHING wrong with Focal :D

[n2nsanity]

I checked the specs and they're only 1/8" deeper than my current ones (which have plenty of room left over) Even if I remove the plastic baffle, I should still have room.
Should I stick with foam baffles or try something else?

Anyway, ordered these and didn't pay anywhere near $200 :)
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/fixedscale/400/300/products/2012/39/575/x575P1675S-F.jpeg

[95 RT/TT]

7's fit in the door too.

[n2nsanity]

I've never seen 7's, and actually looks like some shallow 8's would probably even fit. I was hoping to ditch the white plastic bracket piece, but the mounts on my new speakers would only touch at most 3 holes and also leave gaps. So I'm using them again. Also, the speakers I bought have the crossover built into the woofer basket, which sucks because I'm running my tweeters to the dash and that's 2 sets of wires I have to run through the door. Since I'm using 14 gauge compared to 18 or higher before, it's harder to fish through the connectors. It worked doing 1 at top and 1 at bottom, but barely. Maybe I should have just stuck with the oem wiring.

My dash tweeters were toast, lol. Almost no paper left. I tried to separate the speaker from the grille and plastic clips so I could reuse it, but the plastic was so brittle it just crumbled. Another thing I'm still trying to figure out. I'm also putting fabric on everything. I think it gives it a cleaner look. At least until it fades, lol. I'll post some pics of the progress once I actually make some :p.

Also sprayed some rubber all inside of the door. Sounds better and less rattly opening and closing the door now :)
I'm still routing wires, so I haven't actually tested the sound yet. I've only had 30 minutes here and there to work on it, so progress is slow.

Before I'm done, out of curiosity, I'll test fit my old 8's to see if this is doable. I'm regretting not just going this route to start with as I think 2fnloud suggested earlier. These look like they would have worked perfectly. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575PPS48/Rockford-Fosgate-PPS4-8.html?tp=49590

But anyway for anyone wondering, most 6 3/4's should fit just fine as a stock replacement. Most likely the only fitment issue will be if you have 2way or 3ways with the mids/tweeters hitting the grille on the door.

[95 RT/TT]

I just can't even get used to even the idea of a 2,3,4 way in the door, and it's not the end of the world if the speakers don't fit the oem buckets.

[n2nsanity]

That's just it... I was hoping to ditch the oem buckets so I wouldn't have to worry so much about rubbing on the door panel. Or have to hack into the door panel.

[95 RT/TT]

The stock speaker mounts were thrown out in my instance. New ones were made. I had to enlarge the speaker grills in the door panel and cut the infinity grill emblems nubs down to a minimum. There was a big difference in speaker size.

[n2nsanity]

The stock speaker mounts were thrown out in my instance. New ones were made. I had to enlarge the speaker grills in the door panel and cut the infinity grill emblems nubs down to a minimum. There was a big difference in speaker size.

I'd like to see more info on your setup.

[95 RT/TT]

I'd like to see more info on your setup.

Basically the systems got some D971 components with 200w/ch on them, a JL 6450 amp and a JL w3v3 sub in a lined smoking box. The doors have v block in and out and individual dampener pads in back of the door speakers. The floor and rear have 3 layers of deadening. Closed cell foam being on top.

[bearded1]

Basically the systems got some D971 components with 200w/ch on them, a JL 6450 amp and a JL w3v3 sub in a lined smoking box. The doors have v block in and out and individual dampener pads in back of the door speakers. The floor and rear have 3 layers of deadening. Closed cell foam being on top.

how was deadening the car? I did all of my S10 and it was a real PITA. Nice results in the end, but I've been pretty reluctant to do it to my VR4.

Did you seal the doors? Would like to see pics inside them and of your baffles if you ever have the panels off.

[n2nsanity]

^This. Pics please? :)

[95 RT/TT]

Going back to 2003...I had previously deadened my car in the rear for exhaust noise help. Brown bread and closed cell foam were used.

In 06 I got better rear lights and had to repair the deadening from replacing them so I figured.. Lets use another 2 layers in the rear. Both were from cascade. The front was previously not done but was done this time. The doors and rear speaker areas were done with v block?? not 100% sure on the exact name as it was 6 years ago. The floors and rears had another layer of cascade's normal deadener. Then there was some 2 pair 12g twisted pair wiring used for the speakers and damplifier pads in back of the door speakers.

[95 RT/TT]

Wiring and finished product

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