Just a 18 year old with a vr4 and some questions

[Snook]

Hey guys, got some questions. What are the best mods for this car for the money? FMIC? Exhaust? I just want the most go for the least dough. I am competent enough to do anything myself, just wondering where to start on this this. (1993 vr4, fresh jdm motor swap, done myself.)47474748

[j2k4]

Hard to beat MBC for the money...

[TurboSinceBirth]

Intake, downpipe, MBC, boost gauge, fuel pump hotwire, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, and datalogger. Turn up the boost to 14-15 psi and watch for knock. I wouldn't upgrade the cat-back exhaust or intercoolers until you upgrade turbos. The M2 eBay dual exhaust is pretty cheap though and comes with a downpipe so for $400 it's not bad compared to spending $250 on a downpipe. Otherwise, $800 for an exhaust isn't worth it until you upgrade the turbos and even then it isn't 100% necessary.

[Snook]

Alright guys. Thanks! Would a Dr-750 be a good turbo to swap to? I don't want to change mani's yet.

[FeaRpb]

Dr-750 is the best td04 out.

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[Snook]

thank you guys. all the info i can get is appreciated. I just wish i had more money to work on this thing. I'm a teenage musician private college student. I am the ultimate epitome of broke. (no mommy and daddy didn't buy the car :P)

[NickS VR4]

If you want to save money, DR-750s will still cost you a lot in supporting mods, if you wanted to get the most out of them. If funds are limited, I would ensure you have a healthy car first. For the money you put into DR-750s, you can get Rob Becks 13Ts plus a lot of supporting mods. Rob Beck is selling a set right now on the other forum, his last set.

13Ts wont get you the power of DR-750s, but Rob Becks turbos are just over $1000.
Now you need:
Injectors
Fuel Controller
Boost Controller
Fuel Pump and/or hotwire kit
FMIC optional
Tuneup optional

How are your motor mounts, synchros, etc? When was the water pump and timing belt last changed? Oil pump? Hows compression?

[FeaRpb]

Well I would stay away from dr-750's, they aren't cheap and neither is their supporting mods.

Ask me how I know :P

[Snook]

Motor is running great. I got the motor with 30k on it and still did the 60k. Boost is currently at 14. Motor and trans are perf. And how do you know? @feaRpb

[Snook]

Also this was all done 1 month ago. Mounts are good as well.

[maTT]

Congrats on the car! I got my red 92vr4 with black wheels when I was 18! Now I'm 35 :eek:

If you are broke, you have the wrong car. DR750's are the best td04 turbo but they do not belong in the same paragraph as broke. Terrible combo. Leave the car as is and pray your tranny doesn't break until after you sign the recording deal.

[AdamVR4]

Stick with BPU.

Gut the precats
upgrade the BOV (stock leaks if I recall)
regap the spark plugs to what... .030-.032"? (it's been a while since mine was BPU)
upgrade the downpipe
upgrade the intake tubes (but retain the stock bubble)
retain the stock intake filter box but feel free to upgrade the drop-in filter
get a boost controller / boost gauge / datalogger
hotwire the fuel pump
and then start saving up to replace the clutch ;)

[Snook]

Gotcha. I have a little bit of money buts only a little bit here and there. I got a Borla muffler and 2 1/2 exhaust laying around. Should I weld it up to the car or sell it for some extra cha-Ching?

[Snook]

@adamvr4 it came with the K&N oval filter.

[maTT]

Sell the 2.5 for extra chaching

[Snook]

And buy a BOV?

[maTT]

The formula I used to run a 12.7 back in the day:

walbro fuel pump hotwired
MBC
air filter
boost gauge
crushed DSM BOV
gutted cats
fix all boost leaks

You can do this for under $200

I wouldn't go any further than that at unless you are willing to spend a lot of money and have a 2nd car (or bicycle).

[Snook]

Crushed DSM BOV? Explain. Lol I'm assuming you don't literally mean crushed. This is my first turbo project. So bear with me. First project was a 68 cougar, second a 98 Honda prelude. So I know a lot. Just not much turbo related.......Yet Lol

[AdamVR4]

You need to datalog and/or monitor knock. Sure, back in the day, most people could get away without datalogging on a BPU car, but your car is 20 years old. Otherwise maTT's list is good and very similar to the set-up that I ran a 12.7 with (I had a greddy type-s bov).

[maTT]

Yes definitely log, and there may be much better ways to accomplish your goals now. A crushed DSM BOV is in fact crushed. This basically increases the spring pressure and stops it from leaking. It's metal. You can't do it to a 3S BOV because the stocker is plastic.

[Snook]

Thanks for the info guys. I'll keep you guys up to date. It probably doesn't hurt I got two motors for this puppy. :P

[Snook]

Update. Found out I have a door seal leak. Passenger side. :,(

[Greg E]

Don't do anything to the car modification wise. Save your $$ to fix the broken stuff that comes up with any 20 year old car.

[TurboSinceBirth]

Make sure it's mechanically sound, go BPU, and then get a flashed ECU. I forgot about that until Greg posted. You should check out how much he picked up on a stock car by just tweaking the tune. I would advise against a turbo upgrade until you finish with school or have a good job because it will get expensive quick and your car will sit more than it gets driven.

[Snook]

Got it. I only have 2 things that NEED fixing. The door seal and new rear wheel bearings.

[Greg E]

Got it. I only have 2 things that NEED fixing. The door seal and new rear wheel bearings.

I see it time and time again where people have no issues spending $400 on an exhaust but they can't bear the thought of $220 plus labor to install the maintenance items like wheel bearings (this isn't directed at you personally, just something I observe a lot). The proper timing belt maintenance with new pulleys and a water pump is just shy of $500 for the parts alone and most people don't replace the accessory tensioner pulley (which is usually noisy) and the crank pulley (which is known to come apart).

I see guys driving around with blown struts so badly that the wheels are bouncing (which over time causes many other issues in the wheel wells and even the differential) but they have upgraded injectors and a fuel controller...

Don't be one of those guys who buys one of these cars cheap, doesn't have the $$ to properly maintain it but somehow has the $$ to modify it. These guys usually end up selling the car because its a "POS" and they lose a lot of $$ on it.

There is nothing wrong with a completely stock car. Look into the basic mods once you have the bank to afford the consequences of having more power. In the mean time do your research. Read about people's set ups and experiences. Find out what you want and how obtainable it is. If you don't race the car, why do anything at all to it?? A clean, well maintained car is every bit as fun to drive to work/school and back home in traffic with gas over $4/gal. ;)

[JasonY]

Suspension and Brakes. Stock otherwise. Just save money to keep it running tip top.

Jason

[AdamVR4]

I see it time and time again where people have no issues spending $400 on an exhaust but they can't bear the thought of $220 plus labor to install the maintenance items like wheel bearings (this isn't directed at you personally, just something I observe a lot). The proper timing belt maintenance with new pulleys and a water pump is just shy of $500 for the parts alone and most people don't replace the accessory tensioner pulley (which is usually noisy) and the crank pulley (which is known to come apart).

I see guys driving around with blown struts so badly that the wheels are bouncing (which over time causes many other issues in the wheel wells and even the differential) but they have upgraded injectors and a fuel controller...

Don't be one of those guys who buys one of these cars cheap, doesn't have the $$ to properly maintain it but somehow has the $$ to modify it. These guys usually end up selling the car because its a "POS" and they lose a lot of $$ on it.

There is nothing wrong with a completely stock car. Look into the basic mods once you have the bank to afford the consequences of having more power. In the mean time do your research. Read about people's set ups and experiences. Find out what you want and how obtainable it is. If you don't race the car, why do anything at all to it?? A clean, well maintained car is every bit as fun to drive to work/school and back home in traffic with gas over $4/gal. ;)


Great post.

[Goallie11]

Get a datalogger above all else if you're going to run over stock (12psi) boost. I blew my first engine at 14. Granted it was on a race track, but still.

[Toni]

Don't start a post with your age and just state the facts.

[IPD]

going fast and being broke are fairly incompatible concepts--and become less and less compatible the more speed you're seeking. some cars are fairly durable when modded. the 3/s isn't one of them--not compared to the likes of a mustang.

if you want the 3/s and are deadset on it, keep it 100% stock. i wouldn't even mess with the boost--because you really need a logger, (and fuel correction if you go very far at all).

you are so much better off if you just spend every cent you can afford on keeping it tip-top. broke people simply cannot afford to go fast--sorry, but it's true.

[Ange]

Hey don't scare the guy off :D

for the thin wallet i can recomend some ebay upgrades that are proven and works great.

ebay "m2" exhaust Catback Exhaust System Mitsubishi 3000gt 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 VR4 M2 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Catback-Exhaust-System-Mitsubishi-3000GT-91-92-93-94-95-96-97-98-99-VR4-M2-/380393899666?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58913e4692&vxp=mtr)
ebay radiator 1991 1999 Mitsubishi 3000gt GTO 3 0L V6 Aluminum Radiator 2 Row MT New 1998 1997 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-1999-Mitsubishi-3000GT-GTO-3-0L-V6-Aluminum-Radiator-2-ROW-MT-New-1998-1997-/370638986007?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item564bce1b17)

other than that. if you want to raise your boost then you also need to be able to correct fuel. so get a fuel controller aswell. apexi are commonly used cheap piggybacks. + get a datalogger to keep an eye on things.

aftermarket intercooler is a good upgrade to over those small 20 y old smics. but they are all 500$+

other than that save your money and keep an eye on maintainance stuff.

[HLxDrummer]

Do you want to go fast now or build your car to go really fast later? What is more important: power or handling?

You can do some stuff like I have done to mine (see sig) to gradually build it up to a reliable, well rounded car that I can beat on without much worry. Not very fast now but I don't have many more things to install before I can just through on a set of 13Ts and be done with it (probably will be my last planned mod).

If you just want it to go fast now, I would get a datalogger, a nice downpipe like the 3SX one, a nice boost controller, and maybe a wideband/SAFC. Other than that stuff your money to power ratio is going to increase for each mod. Things like intercoolers/air filter/cat back don't do much for power at close to stock levels. You could also do some weight reduction which will help handling, speed, braking, gas mileage, and reliability. Things like a lightweight driveshaft (expensive, but if yours is going bad...), wheels, NA cloth seats, etc.

I agree with the maintenance, though. Keep on top of it! Always have a few extra grand laying around if you need the car for transportation. If you hear a noise/feel a vibration CHECK IT OUT. Consider upgrading the drivetrain if you plan to launch hard, etc.

[Snook]

I don't plan to hit her hard, I just plan on driving a nice looking, simi-fast car when I want it to be. I'm staying on top of keeping her in tip top shape. Wheel bearings, door seals are next up on the list. Then new brake pads. Then after I shake her down, if absolutely everything on her is right, then I'll start modding!

[Snook]

And as far as "mods" go. I have AEM wide band, MBC, after market boost gauge and racing seats (my olds seats were torn beyond repair so I just replaced it with racing seats). I think after I get all the need to be things done, it would probably be more worth my time and money to get a cheep hoop spoiler or combat spoiler, fix all the dings and paint her.

[B-Man]

I'm surprised nobody's said to make sure you clean/replace/upgrade your oil cooler.

[Snook]

It was done with the new motor.

[UTRacerX9]

I'm surprised nobody's said to make sure you clean/replace/upgrade your oil cooler.

Because if it ain't broke, you don't fix it. Stock cooler is fine for a BPU car (and any TD04 car running under 20psi.)

OP, if you already have MBC and boost gauge, then I'd just recommend a downpipe. If you have emissions where you live, get one that allows you to keep your main cat. The front precats can be gutted/replaced, no problem. Do the fuel pump hotwire, if not getting an aftermarket one. Be careful about the hotwire though with an upgraded pump... It can overwhelm the stock FPR, I had to replace mine after a year or two of running with a hotwired Supra pump.

With the boost increase and a downpipe, you're looking at almost a 100hp gain. At that point, the clutch is the next thing that will really need to be addressed. Also, check and make sure you have the 25 spline output shaft/transfer case. You should, but you never know after all these years. If you do have the 18 spline, don't do many hard launches, you'll snap the shaft and ruin your VCU, which is not a cheap fix.

[B-Man]

Because if it ain't broke, you don't fix it. Stock cooler is fine for a BPU car (and any TD04 car running under 20psi.)



Come say that to my 240*F oil temps :lo5l:

Stock is fine for a street BPU car if it's clean/no ridiculously bent fins

[NickS VR4]

ebay radiator 1991 1999 Mitsubishi 3000gt GTO 3 0L V6 Aluminum Radiator 2 Row MT New 1998 1997 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-1999-Mitsubishi-3000GT-GTO-3-0L-V6-Aluminum-Radiator-2-ROW-MT-New-1998-1997-/370638986007?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item564bce1b17)

Anyone know how this rates vs stock? Is it about the same?

[Snook]

I live In Kentucky, the emission rules here are "if it don't ruin the ecosystem, it ain't running right"

[Snook]

Also, I do have 25 spline.

[Vishnu]

Go with the BPU upgrades and swap in upgrades as parts start to fail... And I guarantee you, the most absolutely random parts WILL fail. If there's a noise you can't figure out, the guys on this board will find it for you.

From a financial perspective, find your cutoff point. A lot of people have it without realizing it. It's the price at which you would hesitate to pay for. For instance, if anything breaks the $400 mark for me, I start thinking twice before doing it, unless it NEEDS to be done to remain functional. But that's what worked for me when I first got mine. I'm still working on my upgrade process, but that's a matter of money more than anything. If this is your primary vehicle, and you have no backup (yet... :-) ), function trumps all. What good is a quick sexy sports car that doesn't work?

[Snook]

I'm actually going to look at a SL with bent valves today to make my daily. I have new (used) heads for it.

[Snook]

Well. The SL I walked away from immediately. She was abused. Also, if I can do a motor swap, how hard are rear wheel bearings gonna be on this car?

[IPD]

And as far as "mods" go. I have AEM wide band, MBC, after market boost gauge and racing seats (my olds seats were torn beyond repair so I just replaced it with racing seats). I think after I get all the need to be things done, it would probably be more worth my time and money to get a cheep hoop spoiler or combat spoiler, fix all the dings and paint her.

i would keep the AA, personally. 3g spoilers are too ricey, imho. they also block aft view a lot more.

[AdamVR4]

I'm surprised nobody's said to make sure you clean/replace/upgrade your oil cooler.

Unless they've been replaced, I'd be more worried about the original hoses that lead to and from it than the oil cooler itself.

[Snook]

3g spoilers are too ricey, imho. they also block aft view a lot more.

True. I may go spoiler less.

[Ange]

Anyone know how this rates vs stock? Is it about the same?

I have it and its twice as thick as stock. it's much better what i've read(i havn't driven with it yet). your stock one might be in bad condition too if you never checked it out. mine was the copper one and badly corroded. the fins broke off like paper when i draw my finger over. only "problem" with this one is that you have to make your own top brackets because stock wont line up. that wasn't an issue for me though. just make a template of carton and then cut it out from sheet metal with an angle grinder. also i found the rubber pieces on the solenoid bracket on the firewall was perfect as rubber dampers.

here's some pics of my install with it
http://imageshack.us/a/img88/3378/bracketspassarej.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img221/5843/imag0008t.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img88/7387/nykylare.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img571/7060/nykylareflkt.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img21/9245/klarkylare2.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img12/921/imag0088jj.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img24/1272/gammalkylare.jpg

[Blackmount]

Woo! finally, I'm no longer the youngest on the site!

Anyways. A Well done BPU VR4 will walk 75% of cars out there.

Its ur car do what u want with it but I strongly suggest like everyone else making sure Everything is 100.1% on the car before any mods are done.... Also i Urge you to get a Datalogger. + You dont Need Bigger Turbos to upgrade ur exhaust or intercoolers Nothing wrong with a FMIC on stock Turbos. Its still better then the Tiny Stock Sidemounts That get Warm to the touch on a typical Southern Summer day. Plus getting a nice free flowing exhaust will help those little turbos out, Not to mention itll sound good.

there r some cheap exhaust options but I personally hate Dual Fart Cans which I think 90% of 3/S exhausts r. Eww. But again ur car.. IPS has a Cheap Single Exhaust too if u like the looks and r in for a little bit of weight savings. But nothing will beat a 100$ 3" Dual Straight pipe Muffler shop exhaust lol. That being said, Ray made 600++Awhp on stock exhaust so its not very limited however idk if his was a Active Exhaust or not.

[Snook]

yeah, i was looking at doing a custom single out borla. whats considers a good Air/Fuel on this car?

[HLxDrummer]

Stock should be around mid 10s at WOT. If it is leaner than 11.0 I would be nervous without a datalogger. Cruising around and idling it should bounce around 14.7

[Snook]

sweet. i have a perfect 14.7-14. 8. i thought thats what it should be, just checking!

[JasonY]

Keep the AA. Unless you buy an OEM 99 wing, it'll flop around underway and eventually fall apart. With the right wheels, the 99 wing does look awesome on the gen1 cars. The 99 wing doesnt block any visibility. The hoop wing on the other hand blocks a lot of rear visibility.

Jason

[Snook]

good to know! im sitting here in my dorm room dreaming of when i can start upgrading her, and get her painted. painted first.

[TurboSinceBirth]

Don't upgrade your radiator it isn't necessary. I wouldn't call it a complete waste of money but definitely not worth it for a stock, BPU, or even TD04 car period. I only upgraded mine to a 2" thick aluminum one because I should be past 500AWHP and I plan to go another 2-300AWHP eventually while not necessarily on this setup which still isn't as much of a judging factor considering I've seen plenty of high hp cars on stock radiators. You want to keep the heat down sure but fans, ducting, and the water/coolant mix ratio go a long ways to helping. If you were using your car to road race that's a different story all together.

Since you don't have a FMIC blocking the radiator you should have no problems with cooling. Even if you had a FMIC as long as you make sure there is proper ducting between the front bumper and FMIC, FMIC and radiator, then you're golden. I'm sure you won't be there for a long time. The ~$200 would be better spent elsewhere honestly. Unless your current radiator is all gunked up with bent fins, holes, etc you should be fine. Otherwise, consider it a forced upgrade or pick up a stock radiator for cheap from someone on the boards. Don't ever get the auto parts replacement radiators either. I bought a car with one and that was the worst part ever even more than something jerry rigged together.

[Snook]

i wasn't planning on it, until i NEED it...everything currently is on a need basis.

[Ange]

Don't upgrade your radiator it isn't necessary. I wouldn't call it a complete waste of money but definitely not worth it for a stock, BPU, or even TD04 car period. I only upgraded mine to a 2" thick aluminum one because I should be past 500AWHP and I plan to go another 2-300AWHP eventually while not necessarily on this setup which still isn't as much of a judging factor considering I've seen plenty of high hp cars on stock radiators. You want to keep the heat down sure but fans, ducting, and the water/coolant mix ratio go a long ways to helping. If you were using your car to road race that's a different story all together.

Since you don't have a FMIC blocking the radiator you should have no problems with cooling. Even if you had a FMIC as long as you make sure there is proper ducting between the front bumper and FMIC, FMIC and radiator, then you're golden. I'm sure you won't be there for a long time. The ~$200 would be better spent elsewhere honestly. Unless your current radiator is all gunked up with bent fins, holes, etc you should be fine. Otherwise, consider it a forced upgrade or pick up a stock radiator for cheap from someone on the boards. Don't ever get the auto parts replacement radiators either. I bought a car with one and that was the worst part ever even more than something jerry rigged together.

I didn't say it's nessesary only changed mine cause mine was toast. many are especially the copper fin ones.

[IPD]

2" rads are so cheap it hard not to justify upgrading...especially if you still have the original one in the car.

[mb3000]

If you're not overheating than you don't need to upgrade the rad. It's as simple as that.

[Greg E]

If you're not overheating than you don't need to upgrade the rad. It's as simple as that.

+1

Chances are, even if you do have over heating issues, its usually fan related.

[Snook]

Well, I was on my way back from work this morning and of all things an rx-7 pulls up next to me, and gives me the thumbs up, try's to pull on me but I down shift into 3 and I kept ahead but could never get away. I feel sufficient.

[IPD]

fc or fd? and stock rotory or sbc?

[Snook]

FD with original motor.