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Thread: How to (pics and vid): Dejon med/hi boost controller

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    How to (pics and vid): Dejon med/hi boost controller

    I took this from my thread on 3si in case anyone wanted to know about this MBC. No one's ever really mentioned it so I figured it's worth mentioning

    I did this writeup because the only sources for installation were on Dejon's website. Dejon's instructions are very vague and contain no pictures... which doesn't really help too much. I get the feeling that almost no one uses this MBC since I couldn't find any info about it. Hopefully, this will bring some interest to this MBC.

    Preface: Any time you install an aftermarket boost controller, you need one of two things... an aftermarket boost gauge or a datalogger. I recommend both, but I personally would choose a logger over a gauge. The reason for this is because you don't tune to boost... you tune to knock. A gauge is great though as you can see in real time what you're boosting at. Unfortunately, as you'll see in the video at the end of this how to, I didn't have a logger for the initial test. Instead, I used a gauge that I believe to be slightly inaccurate. So to be on the safe side, I set the high boost to 9psi.

    This is what I like to call a hybrid boost controller. It is the Dejon med/hi boost controller that sells for $129. It is said to be manual but it is partially electronic. This is the absolute simplest EBC/MBC combo you can buy... but I don't need any fancy interface to tell me what boost I'm running.

    To start off, I did the electrical work first and got it out of the way. The actual mounting of the boost controller took forever... I couldn't figure out for the life of me where it would fit. It's not huge by any means but I wanted this to look as stock as possible.

    Here's some pictures of what the kit includes. Dejon packaged nearly everything I needed for the install. The only thing I needed to buy extra was some vacuum hose and wire loom.





    After like an hour of test fitting, I finally found a nice location to mount the controller. The bracket they send is sturdy yet easily bendable aluminum. I bent it to where it would fit well and did a test fit.



    The bolt that held the hood sensor was close by and worked nicely for the ground wire.


    On to the solder. When I do electronics, I don't use butt connectors or screw on connectors... I use solder and heat shrink. It not only makes it look stock, but it also holds up well and later on down the road you don't have to wonder why the hell your equipment isn't working correctly. I soldered, crimped, and heat shrunk the ring terminal onto the ground wire on the controller. It doesn't matter which black wire you use coming off the controller... just pick one.


    Here, I sanded down the area to bare metal as well as the bracket that holds the hood sensor to ensure that I had a good ground.


    Vacuum reduction, Powdercoated misc, cruise relocate, Evo9 BOV, Custom catch cans, Russell fuel filter, SS braided fuel lines, High flow fuel loop, Autogage fuel gauge, Catless DP, DNP Y-pipe, Fuel pump hotwire.

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    Better than that "other" place Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) x2xtreme360's Avatar
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    Now, using some excess blue wire from Dejon's kit, cut a small amount of wire that will simply reach from the switch to the cig lighter connector. Attach another female spade connector on the end and wrap and solder the other end to the cig lighter wire. This circuit is already fused so no need to add one. Tape up the connections so no shorts occur.




    Mounting the switch is simple. Drill a hole, unscrew the plastic nut on the switch, put the switch through the bottom of the hole and screw the plastic nut on the top to hold it in place.


    Now, using the spade connectors you just made, connect them to the two terminals on the switch. This is the part that confused me. Dejon's instructions said to connect the power wire to the center blade of the switch. Upon reading the back of the switch's box, it said that the positive terminal was the outside blade so I followed those instructions. Tape up the connections and reinstall the cruise/cig lighter connectors. Press the panel back into place.



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    Better than that "other" place Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) x2xtreme360's Avatar
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    Phew! Electrical is DONE. Now comes the easy part of routing the vacuum lines... NOT!

    The rear wastegate actuator line is a PITA to get to... especially if you clamp it on like me. Connect some vacuum hose to the wastegate actuator and route it towards the front of the car. Dejon's kit comes with some vacuum hose with a pastic "T" on the end to connect both wastegate actuators to the controller. The single side of the "T" gets connected to the brass fitting on the controller while the other sides of the "T" go to the wastegate actuators.





    This is what I used to plug up the port on the rear turbo intake that the stock BCS used. A straight plastic fitting with a rubber vacuum cap on the end.


    Now it's time to send a line to the Y pipe port. Remove the MBC and attach a vacuum hose to the bottom port with the plastic "T". Route the hose up to the Y pipe and connect it at the port.



    Reinstall the MBC. This step is something I consider a necessity. You don't need heat melting the insulation off your power wire. Wrap the wire in wire loom. Simply start at the MBC and push the wire into the loom as you push the loom down the wire. Use electrical tape and tape the loom every 6 or so inches. This will keep the wire from coming out as you push the loom along the wire.



    And you're DONE! Now, take it for a test drive and be careful. Watch your gauge closely for any spikes or overboosting. My initial drive had both low and high settings at 7psi. I only had to get out of the car 3 times to get the high setting where I wanted it and I left the low setting at 7psi. Here's a quick video to show you how it performed.

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