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Thread: Power

  1. #21
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    Well the thing is it was done in several steps, as there are many options.
    The final end result actually has a fresh block with low compression pistons now, stock VR4 fuel sysytem, VR4 ECU, SAFC NEO, MAF-T, 60-1 turbo, TIAL external wastegate with 12psi spring, full 3 inch exhaust, 2.5 inch piping all the way through a FMIC, Motorworks external oil pump, various gauges, AEM UEGO, etc.
    And there is about $5000 dollars in it with parts, labor, tuning.

    Yea the exhaust on there was junk in that pic, we redid the whole thing.

  2. #22
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    I'm going to put together a basic kit,
    Like a stage 1 thing, possibly:
    56 trim turbo
    tial external wastgate with 8psi spring
    2.5 inch piping
    ss braided oil feed and return lines
    external oil pump
    2.5" testpipe
    vr4 injectors
    walbro fuel pump with hotwire
    SAFC
    boost gauge
    oil psi gauge
    That should cover the basics to get started, and I could probably do it for around $2700 installed.

  3. #23
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    anyone know what these NA's dyno stock at the wheels?

    edit: i see 160's and 170's with a crappy torque curve after searching a bit, so nvm haha.
    Last edited by x2percentmilk; 09-14-2010 at 10:31 PM.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by x2percentmilk View Post
    anyone know what these NA's dyno stock at the wheels?

    edit: i see 160's and 170's with a crappy torque curve after searching a bit, so nvm haha.
    Yea usually 170's I think, and we hit 344 at around 10-11psi on a stock MAS and N/A heads.

  5. #25
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    thanks for confirming, and the tidbit about the psi

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by toddrs93 View Post
    Yea usually 170's I think, and we hit 344 at around 10-11psi on a stock MAS and N/A heads.
    this is on the 3.0 block correct?

  7. #27
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    yes it is

  8. #28
    Yep, I'm here.
    No boost for me thanks. I just got off the dyno this week end and am not ready to give up just yet. I put this car together in 15 days just before NG10. New cams, (again) adjustable cam gears, own intake, (again new design) and well a few other goodies. But NO boost. I am getting 229.7 at the wheels and think that is not bad for still being 10 to 1 slugs. Running with CEL, bad tune, and , well just did not have time to get ready for the dyno. Went as is. Not real happy with torque, (200) but will work on that next. What was cool is that the HP never fell off. Not at all. Had I a higher rev limit, could have and would have made more no problem. I am stuck with an NA ECU for now, but at Indy ran a VR4 ECU, required much less tuning and ran a lot stronger. I will be watching the threads here and will post as I have more info to share. For now, I think I just out powered most all other (none turbo) NA builds and 3.5 swap alike. Best 3.5 swap I've seen was compu-geek and belive his to dyno 224. Just a couple more ponies for me and I will be at stock VR4 levels. For now, weighing in at 3060, you had better not let me catch you VR4 guys napping at the wheel. If you can't pull some good boost and real quik, you'll be left behind. LOL. If I could just learn to drive this beast, I might just go looking for Eric. LOL.

  9. #29
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    ^ my hero

  10. #30

    Adjustable cam gears

    Quote Originally Posted by Jstarr427 View Post
    PMP Motorsports

    http://pmpmotorsports.com/

    do adjustable cam gears do as much for NA's as they do TT's?
    Adjustable cam gears give no power at all. You miss understand. If you timing is slightly off than you have less power. All these adjustable cam gears do is let you correct any timing issues you may have. Therefore bringing your horse power back were it should be. If you have no timing issues (NA or Turbo) than adjustable cam gears do nothing for you. Now if in fact you decide to make adjustments to your timing for the purpose of some possable power gains, and you have some of the supporting hardware to support said power gains, than yes, you can squeeze a little more out of what ever set up you have. Just remember, clocking those adjustable cams to 3 retard exhaust and 1 advanced intake will do nothing for you if you have not used a degree wheel first to find 0 anyways. This is a must. or the adjustable gears may just be a waist if time. The reason I run adjusable cam gears is so I can adjust my exhaust cams to take advantage of my long tube headers and tune the cams to the headers. Once this is done you can tune your intake cams to make most of what ever type of intake and runner set up you have. This needs to be done on a dyno. I have not done so yet and I do have my intakes at 1adv and exhaust at 3 rtd. So far I am at 229.7 HP with my 3.0 (.020 over) and other mods. Was it the cam gears, cams, intake or headers that got me here? Let me answer that for you. It is all of it as a package working together as a unit.

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