ABS delete questions

**DrGonzo** · 11-29-2010, 01:02 PM

When I rebuilt my 93 TT from the ground up I deleted the ABS pump and went all NON-ABS Stock parts. I just recently got the car running and took it out for a quick spin around the neighborhood. I noticed my brakes were really loose. The pedal is tight "not spongy" but it just doesn't want to stop. It is almost like my rotors are wet or greased. I checked all of the lines and there is no air in the system, All lines were flushed and all calipers rebuilt. I don't have any leaks and the rotors and pads are brand new.

There is some surface rust on the rotors but after the quick test drive they were back to all metal.

No matter how hard I step on the brake pedal I cannot get the brakes to lock up and the car just slowly rolls to a stop. Scared me the first time as I thought the brakes went out completely.

I am wondering now if the master or brake booster is bad. There is a slight click when I step on the brakes but nothing really load.

Anyone else done the delete having any issues similar to this?

Any Ideas?

**n2nsanity** · 11-29-2010, 07:00 PM

brake booster working? improper vacuum on the booster can do that.

**stealthee** · 11-29-2010, 07:23 PM

What kind of pads do you have? Are they the same as before you deleted the ABS?

**DrGonzo** · 11-29-2010, 07:26 PM

The pads are just raybesto pads right now. They are brand new and were never used prior to the ABS delete. Same with the rotors.

**stealthee** · 11-29-2010, 07:31 PM

If the pedal is not spongy and good and firm, but it still has issues stopping I would say the issue is with the rotors and/or pads. If it were a booster issue then the brakes would either be rock hard and difficult to push, or bleed off very slowly.

**DrGonzo** · 11-29-2010, 08:33 PM

The rotors are just stock blanks and are also brand new. There was some surface rust on them from the car sitting for a couple months but after the quick 5 min drive they were all back to being shiny. I am wondering if the pads actually got ruined cause of the surface rust on the rotors!

**n2nsanity** · 11-29-2010, 10:03 PM

i'd start with the easier and cheap/free stuff first.
make sure you have good vacuum on the booster
if its actually bad, i have an extra one
are the calipers and lines the originals? or did you replace any of them?
did you replace the proportioning valve? and attach the lines correctly? (i wouldn't think that could be an issue tho)
also if you're using any long segments of brakeline that aren't solid lines, pressure might not build up enough in the calipers
just trying to throw some ideas out there

**DrGonzo** · 11-29-2010, 10:37 PM

All stock hardlines and SS lines from the stock to the calipers. I'm pretty sure the prop valve is hooked up correctly as I had to go through multiple diagrams in the manual to find the correct one. I'm betting it's the master as that clicking sound makes me suspicious. I have a spare on the parts car I'll swap out this weekend and see if that does the trick.