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Thread: No Start, No Cranking

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    No Start, No Cranking

    Hello,

    So here's the problem:

    When the key is turned to start there is only a loud metallic click from the starter/near the starter. You can hear the Fuel Pump. ECU reads codes 22 and 44 if the key is left in the start position for 10+ seconds.

    Here's what I've done so far:

    Rolled the car around to free the flywheel (in case it were stuck)
    The Click-start mod
    Checked all relevant fuses

    Here's the background story:

    Went to University after a round of maintenance/mods resulting a very well running car. Came back after 1.5 months and the battery was totally dead (I must have a small short somewhere.) Charging the battery didn't do much so I refilled the water level in the battery and jumped it with another vehicle which gave it enough power to run. I drove around a short while on the jumped battery before noticing that the e-brake and srs light were on, dimly. The music cut out for an instant whenever I braked, so I checked the voltage on the datalogger. The voltage varied from 10 volts to 11.5 volts depending on rpm/load. I took the battery out and had it tested at the local O'reilly's, it flunked. So I got a new, more powerful battery (800 cold cranking amps vs. 575 previously) because the only alternative battery that fit was only 525 cold cranking amps. After replacing the battery, the car does not crank; it only makes a loud clicking noise. All other electronics work fine.

    I appreciate any insight y'all might have for me.

    My current plan is to run a hotwire straight from the battery to the starter to see if the starter still works.

  2. #2
    The one. The only. verified Feedback Score 11 (100%) stealthee's Avatar
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    Well for one if there isnt already a hotwire directly from the battery to the starter then someone messed with wiring because thats how it is stock.

    I would say your starter is likely effed. Pull it and have it tested.

    [06-05, 19:29] OhioSpyderman: Brian, finding a woman is NOT the answer, you need to shop for a good VACUUM

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    Hey Stealthee, thanks for the reply.

    The stock hotwire is the black/ red striped wire on the tranny side of the starter solenoid wiring harness, correct? If so I just ran a wire from the battery to that and it resulted in the same clicking (large spark and a bit of smoke this time). I suppose this confirms that the starter is broken. I'll pull the starter and get it tested.

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    Ok, so I took the starter out and had it tested, it tested good. I put the starter back in and made sure all the electrical connections were tight + put some electrical tape on them. I disconnected the click start fix and reverted the wiring to stock, and the car started after turning the key to start for the 5th time. I reconnected the click start fix and the car has started on 3 out of 4 turns so far.
    For reference, prior to the new battery (even with a low battery) the starter would at least attempt to spin the flywheel.

    The Bad:
    Datalogger reads only 11 to 12 volts at idle; I havn't driven around yet.

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    The one. The only. verified Feedback Score 11 (100%) stealthee's Avatar
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    Sounds like you are having a seperate alternator issue.

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    Member verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) blindmist's Avatar
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    Most likely one of your terminals is loose and or dirty. Seriously, I went through everything you have, almost to the T. It turned out the first time to be a bad ground because the ground terminal was loose. Then it turned out the be the corrosion on the wire from the battery to the starter. Cleaned it all up with Coca-Cola, tightened both terminals down, and it works great.

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    Thanks guys.
    I cleaned/tightened the terminals; no success :/

    But I've determined at least part of the problem. The copper stud on the Starter that the positive wire from the battery connects to is loose and broken(not big enough to get a nut onto to hold the wire); which is resulting in a poor connection. Is there any way to buy a new stud or do I need a whole starter? Napa didn't have a stud for it. The starter works fine as long as its well connected.

    The alternator, however, seems to be broken. I tried tightening the nut on the alternator on the ground wire a bit but it was already fairly tight. I also checked the other part of the wiring harness, the thinner wires and it seemed to be plugged in fine. I'll go get the alternator tested once I get the starter rigged up well enough to be sure to start; apparently it was rigged up well enough until I had to put a new battery in - It must've tugged the wires loose. Is there an alternator rebuilder around here at all? I don't have the level of soldering capability necessary... and I'm too cheap to get a brand new alternator lol.

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