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Thread: 2G Rear bumper (crashbar) install and lightening

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    2G Rear bumper (crashbar) install and lightening

    I've switched to a 2G rear bumper support since they are very cheap to pick up and save about 20 pounds.

    I don't want to ditch it completely, but it still a bit of weight, has anyone gone medieval with a hole saw on there's?

    Any idea how much weight could be saved with some moderate about of drilling? 3,4,5 lbs? With some careful drilling I think 85%+ of the strength would still be there.

    I realize that almost 10 lbs are in the shocks, but prefer not to solid mount the bumper.

    I'm going on a bit of a weight attack and just losing weight where it is free or almost free and doesn't detract from the appearance or comfort of the car in anyway. I don't want it to be visible at all. Every oz will help, i.e. I'm going to a shark antenna to save a pound and ditch the stock antenna motor crap.
    Last edited by Forest Gump; 11-12-2010 at 10:43 AM.

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    Advanced Tech? verified Feedback Score 0 i3igpete's Avatar
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    how much was wayne charging for his tubular bar? I'm sure that will be stronger than drilling holes into a box structure - recall that second moment of area is what is important for beams that are loaded transversely. When you drill into that box structure horizontally, you're removing the surface that gives the bar it's strength. (similar to how the top and bottom of an I-beam are what support the load).
    Last edited by i3igpete; 11-12-2010 at 11:00 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by i3igpete View Post
    how much was wayne charging for his tubular bar? I'm sure that will be stronger than drilling holes into a box structure
    Yeah that's the only thing I'm worried about, I may leave it alone. If it was steel you could use an arbor and bend around the edges to make them stronger, but I'm sure this cast aluminum will not stand that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by i3igpete View Post
    how much was wayne charging for his tubular bar? I'm sure that will be stronger than drilling holes into a box structure - recall that second moment of area is what is important for beams that are loaded transversely. When you drill into that box structure horizontally, you're removing the surface that gives the bar it's strength. (similar to how the top and bottom of an I-beam are what support the load).
    What about drilling vertically?

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    seize the carpe! Feedback Score 0 Lithium's Avatar
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    I would be willing to bet if you drill enough holes to actually make it lighter that it would weaken the bar so much it would be almost usless. I wouldnt advise you to take it off either, Ive seen to many rear end accidents on local tracks turn out bad. My advice, get these or make your own for a lot cheaper..

    http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...dProduct=29422

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    Yeah you could certainly be right, that is why I asked if anyone has tried.

    Please keep in mine I'm looking for backyard free weight reduction, I don't want to spend $300 this year to save 5-7 lbs.

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    seize the carpe! Feedback Score 0 Lithium's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forest Gump View Post
    Yeah you could certainly be right, that is why I asked if anyone has tried.

    Please keep in mine I'm looking for backyard free weight reduction, I don't want to spend $300 this year to save 5-7 lbs.
    Do you have access to a mig welder by chance?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithium View Post
    Do you have access to a mig welder by chance?
    yeah and I already built a front bumper before to clear my FMIC, for the rear though the effort to construct another one exceeds the weight loss for me anyway. That and the rear one is more critical to safety IMHO.

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    Im trying to remember what the rear one looks like. If I remember correctly the crash bar itself doesnt really weigh that much, All the weight is in the two dampener's.

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    rawr. verified Feedback Score 4 (100%) Atrosity's Avatar
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    vroom vroom i drive a 93 toyota mr2.

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