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Thread: Smoke @ WOT

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    Padawan garage troll Not Verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) Roybatty's Avatar
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    Smoke @ WOT

    Hard to tell if its bluish smoke (oil), appears white to me, but it does not happen all the time, just @ WOT. She seems to take off fine @ WOT.

    Looking to replace PCV valve first; reccommendations for supplier; RockAuto?

    Is crankcase being pressurized under boost somehow (again PCV valve)?

    I do have a make shift crankfilter in between intake manifold & bubble, pneumatic filter from Home Depot.

    Also I noticed some oil in high pressure side tube from rear turbo to DS SMIC, but Ypipe seems oil free.

    91 AWD TT
    K&N FIPK, Precats gutted, Test Pipe, Blitz DSBC, Walbro 255, Vacuum reduction, SM3, MMCd, Krank Vents, 3SX Aluminum Crank Pulley, Aluminum 2PC DS, MAFT Pro (AFC mode atm).

    To do list: Need to check electronic timing, install FP hotwire, install PS poly MM, RUACAs, Setrab oil cooler, Dejon Y-pipe, 3.5 GM Mas, FIC 650ccs & 13Ts.

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    1st ever COTM and COTY verified Feedback Score 9 (100%) green-lantern's Avatar
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    Could be blow by. You might want to do a compression and leak down test.

    Try removing the hose between the two valve covers and take it out for a WOT pull and see if the smoke goes away. After the 1st pull check and make sure you aren’t blowing oil all over the motor.

    Quote Originally Posted by HilbillyHomeboy View Post
    I bet she smells of old mustard and sawdust.
    Jeremy

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    Padawan garage troll Not Verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) Roybatty's Avatar
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    I replaced the stock tube between the valve covers with a silicone one; I should probably switch it back to the stock one.

    If I remove the tube and she blows oil everywhere at WOT; that means crankcase is being pressurized, still could be PCV valve or caused by excessive blow by (piston rings)?

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    1st ever COTM and COTY verified Feedback Score 9 (100%) green-lantern's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roybatty View Post
    I replaced the stock tube between the valve covers with a silicone one; I should probably switch it back to the stock one.

    If I remove the tube and she blows oil everywhere at WOT; that means crankcase is being pressurized, still could be PCV valve or caused by excessive blow by (piston rings)?
    Take the PVC valve off and see if it rattles when shaken. Sometimes you can clean them with brake cleaner and WD40. If it isn't the valve then I would say it's blow-by. Leak down test is the best way to find out.

    Oh and yeah I'd put the stock tube back on and check for blockage in the tube between the rear head and intake bubble. Check for oil inside the bubble where that hose hooks up also. You kind of need to reach back in there to check.

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    Better than that "other" place Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) x2xtreme360's Avatar
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    99% of the time our PCV valves just simply aren't working. It is also in my experience that any PCV valve you get that is not OEM is going to suck. Every non OEM style I've gotten allows air through both sides. One has more restriction, but in a turbo application you want zero air getting into the crankcase while under boost. OEM pcv valves seem to seal 100%.

    Vacuum reduction, Powdercoated misc, cruise relocate, Evo9 BOV, Custom catch cans, Russell fuel filter, SS braided fuel lines, High flow fuel loop, Autogage fuel gauge, Catless DP, DNP Y-pipe, Fuel pump hotwire.

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    rawr. verified Feedback Score 4 (100%) Atrosity's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by x2xtreme360 View Post
    99% of the time our PCV valves just simply aren't working. It is also in my experience that any PCV valve you get that is not OEM is going to suck. Every non OEM style I've gotten allows air through both sides. One has more restriction, but in a turbo application you want zero air getting into the crankcase while under boost. OEM pcv valves seem to seal 100%.
    +1


    OEM is the only way to go, and by OEM I mean the stock bronze looking pcv valve. The ones from napa or any autoparts store that look silver have always failed on me.
    vroom vroom i drive a 93 toyota mr2.

    https://car.social

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    Padawan garage troll Not Verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) Roybatty's Avatar
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    Thanks for the responses all. This got me doing research on the old site; there is a lot of information on oil catch cans and crank vents. Its common enough perhaps it should be a sticky here if we can get some consensus.

    I will do the OEM PCV. I saw a post from CBenken (Forest Gump) explaining the catch cans need to have 3/8 inch minimum NTP barb fittings. The Husky (el cheapo) catch can from HD I believe may have smaller fittings.

    @Xtxtreme how do you have your crank vents routed?

    Turned the boost down in the mean time, that stopped all the smoke at WOT lol.

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