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Thread: What HP level can our cars reach using stock housing

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    What HP level can our cars reach using stock housing

    As I build up our car through it's stages I would like to make sure I don't have to buy things twice.
    I am thinking ending up just at 500hp as a goal for our car. (roughly 150hp more than stock at the wheels)

    Namely right now I am looking at exhaust manifolds, pre cat, and down pipe that bolt to stock turbos.

    So I guess my question is; Is my goal obtainable using the stock turbo housing and headers and such?

    I have seen the Stage tuning for our cars, but don't clearly know when I can add the headers/exhaust.

    If I add the headers/exhaust with only CAI will I notice much HP increase? Or is this TOO soon to add them. (the engine is out of the car right now so this is a good time to add these)

    Please keep in mind through out ALL my questions:
    I want the car to remain as user friendly as a STOCK car and not much louder while driven at NORMAL speeds. I really like the 'sleeper' additude and plan to keep it under the radar through out the build up ...

    TIA

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    Better than that "other" place Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) x2xtreme360's Avatar
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    Our cars aren't rated at the wheels. We have 300 CRANK horsepower (on 1g's). You're looking at about 225WHP on a stock 1g vr4. Exhaust manis, precats, and dowpipe wont yield you more than 20hp. Another thing: you don't need a CAI for a VR4. I don't know of anyone who has ever installed one. That's what intercoolers are for

    You wont get anywhere near 500WHP on stock turbos. I would start looking at 15G's or something.
    Last edited by x2xtreme360; 10-19-2010 at 10:40 PM.

    Vacuum reduction, Powdercoated misc, cruise relocate, Evo9 BOV, Custom catch cans, Russell fuel filter, SS braided fuel lines, High flow fuel loop, Autogage fuel gauge, Catless DP, DNP Y-pipe, Fuel pump hotwire.

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    Forum User verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) thor'svr4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by x2xtreme360 View Post
    Our cars aren't rated at the wheels. We have 300 CRANK horsepower (on 1g's). You're looking at about 275WHP on a stock 1g vr4. Exhaust manis, precats, and dowpipe wont yield you more than 20hp. Another thing: you don't need a CAI for a VR4. I don't know of anyone who has ever installed one. That's what intercoolers are for

    You wont get anywhere near 500WHP on stock turbos. I would start looking at 15G's or something.
    dammmmmm i wish i had your drivetrain loss
    stock your looking at ~230ish awhp... if shes healthy.

    personaly i say dont waste the money on td04 headers. if you want 500awhp your going to NEED to upgrade the turbos. you could grab a set of 3sx 19T's if you want to keep the turbo housing stock but ive gotta ask, why the hell does it matter if you change the turbo housing? its not like you can even see the dam turbos lmao.

    this is about as sleeper as you can get


    build your car like this, tell everyone its almost stock except for an aftermarket air filter, then woop ass.
    the basic go fast bits...
    forged short block, Billet DR1000's, 680cc injectors, meth inj, FMIC, MAFT, Apexi Neo, hotwired 255lph fuel pump.

    Tuned by Ray Pampena

    Just a fun Daily Driver.

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    Better than that "other" place Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) x2xtreme360's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thor'svr4 View Post
    dammmmmm i wish i had your drivetrain loss
    stock your looking at ~230ish awhp... if shes healthy.

    personaly i say dont waste the money on td04 headers. if you want 500awhp your going to NEED to upgrade the turbos. you could grab a set of 3sx 19T's if you want to keep the turbo housing stock but ive gotta ask, why the hell does it matter if you change the turbo housing? its not like you can even see the dam turbos lmao.

    this is about as sleeper as you can get


    build your car like this, tell everyone its almost stock except for an aftermarket air filter, then woop ass.
    That was a HUGE typo on my part. I meant 225hp.... not 275.

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    Forum User Feedback Score 0 GTwizard's Avatar
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    Nice tuck with the front turbo pipe. Love to C pics of how you did that. PLEEEZ

    Sorry for jacking.
    Last edited by GTwizard; 10-19-2010 at 10:54 PM.

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    Forum User verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) thor'svr4's Avatar
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    lol i WISH that was my car, its snake skinners white stealth. i think that the pipe is just tucked because this pic was supposed to show off the ETS FMIC. i was sure he had the kits on dynamicracing.com but i cant find them on his site, only 3sx.

    http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...dProduct=27374

    thats the fmic kit that routes the ic pipe down instead of up by the radiator

    edit: good catch on that though, i was looking at that pic wondering what was missing from that engine bay
    Last edited by thor'svr4; 10-19-2010 at 11:02 PM.

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    Sorry I meant Fuel Injection Peformance kit (FIPK) but I couldn't remember what they were called for the Stealth. (but it is essentially the same as the CAI on my wifes Mustang, but without the heat shield!!)

    So you guys are saying, staying with stock housing turbos, I can't reach my goal of 500 crank HP? IF so this is exactly why I asked this question. Thank you!! I didn't want to spend $$ today on items I can use later in my build.

    As for my 'sleeper' comment, once the hood is lifted I don't care what can be seen as 'add ons'!

    On a side note: All chassis dynos measure at wheel HP and then calculate crank HP so I am unsure of that reply. Once we add ANY power adder, bolt on, tune, what have you, there are 2 ways to measure the change. (chassis dyno or change in 'distance over time')

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    Better than that "other" place Not Verified Feedback Score 2 (100%) x2xtreme360's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Back-to-Doo View Post
    Sorry I meant Fuel Injection Peformance kit (FIPK) but I couldn't remember what they were called for the Stealth. (but it is essentially the same as the CAI on my wifes Mustang, but without the heat shield!!)

    So you guys are saying, staying with stock housing turbos, I can't reach my goal of 500 crank HP? IF so this is exactly why I asked this question. Thank you!! I didn't want to spend $$ today on items I can use later in my build.

    As for my 'sleeper' comment, once the hood is lifted I don't care what can be seen as 'add ons'!

    On a side note: All chassis dynos measure at wheel HP and then calculate crank HP so I am unsure of that reply. Once we add ANY power adder, bolt on, tune, what have you, there are 2 ways to measure the change. (chassis dyno or change in 'distance over time')
    Dyno's usually only measure WHP. Idk of any that translate into CHP because every car has a different amount of drivetrain loss so that would yield incorrect information.

    But yes, you need upgraded turbos to run 500CHP. I would say at least a set of 13G turbos for 500CHP.

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    x2xtreme360, Thank you!
    (also thanks for not being offended by my dyno comment as it wasn't meant in an offensive way at all!!)

    Being 46, I am not new to high HP boosted cars and toys. Current car is right at 540hp (yes at the crank) tuned Saleen SC281.

    I am giving our 94 Stealth TT a new lease on life and unleash some potential HP!

    Jeff

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    Forum User verified Feedback Score 1 (100%) thor'svr4's Avatar
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    i would say to just look at different turbos and there prices.
    if i were to try to oversimplify things i would describe it like this.
    there are two 'classes' of turbos for these cars. TD04 and TD05.
    there are many turbos in each class. in order of avg whp
    TD04: stock 9B < 13G < 15G or 13T < 16T < 19T
    9B = 275 cfm
    13G = 360cfm
    15G and 13T are BOTH rated at 428cfm. 15G's are just slightly easier to install and in general seam to make a few more hp than 13T's. But 13T's spool slightly faster and are less expensive. in general though there practically the same turbo.
    16T = 435cfm
    19T = 500cfm

    TD05 turbos will put you wayyyyyyy over your hp goal and just cost you more money than you need to spend. i would say 13G's could get you to a little under 500chp, but it will feel slower than you might think since AWD drive train loss sucks. we lose ~70hp out of the stock 300 in the drive train so you do the math... 500chp really isnt that fast.

    no matter what if you go to a larger turbo and start trying to get some good whp your going to need new injectors, fuel pump, and fuel pump hotwire. these mods are pretty cheep and easy to do. but you might want to consider an intercooler upgrade (upgraded sidemounts or a fmic). also you will also need a boost controller and something to control all the extra fuel.

    depending on your budget i would suggest 15G's, pricematchedparts FMIC, walbro 255 fuel pump, any fuel pump hotwire kit, 550cc injectors, and something to tune with such as a SAFC.

    look at stealth316.com for other 'turbo upgrades' to compare what turbos are direct bolt on (td04)
    also check 3si.org 'turbo' section for the sticky of all the dyno charts. that will give you a good idea of what each turbo produced for hp.

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