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Thread: 2-step with EMU

  1. #31
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    you can blow your engine being super rich too.

    Here is the sale:

    http://www.pricematchedparts.com/pro...-3855-593.html

    Parting 6 speed
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    You have to have the injectors wired up to the EMU to do the deadtime correction. Stock injectors are 0.7ms I believe.

    The RC550`s probably do have larger deadtime and this will cause problems with lean throttle tip-in.
    GTO-TT, PTE 1200's, M20, Emanage Ultimate, OS Geiken R3C,
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    Quote Originally Posted by KeithMac View Post
    You have to have the injectors wired up to the EMU to do the deadtime correction. Stock injectors are 0.7ms I believe.

    The RC550`s probably do have larger deadtime and this will cause problems with lean throttle tip-in.
    I made it more rich at idle last night and that fixed my issues. What is a normal correction for 13t's @15psi? I am at -32 and still rich but I am afraid to go much more than that without a wideband.

    Also, I like http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/db.php and you can get them for $6 more on ebay.

    Speaking of which, does anyone have a wideband I can take on credit? lol

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by blindmist View Post
    dont even get me started about 3si.
    Come on man, its got a lot of good info ....Ive got a lc1 innovative wideband but I need it I like it a lot though.

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    Yup. I am pretty much completely stuck until I get a wideband. It is impossible to tune off of narrowband. I can't get it to cycle at idle any more for some reason. I am kinda just getting frustrated and I know 100% of it could be solved with a wideband. I just don't have the money for it right now. I have bills to pay to keep my head above the water.

    I guess I could go ahead and drain the coolant system and put antifreeze in this time instead of running on pure distilled. It has been getting to the 40's the past couple nights and I don't want to be caught off gaurd.

    Edit: I just went and did about 15 pulls since it was late. I finally got it to .95v on both front and rear o2 and 0 knock. So I feel a little bit better. I think it is just a tad rich, which is where I want to be until I get a wideband.


    Just a quick question, if I do encounter knock at .95v, which I believe to be just a little rich, do I pull some timing?
    Last edited by blindmist; 10-21-2010 at 05:46 AM.

  6. #36
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    If it`s only slight knock a couple of degrees pulled should cure it.

    Don`t go mad with the boost and pull a lot of timing as your car will probably end up slower than with lower boost and more timing..

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    Quote Originally Posted by KeithMac View Post
    If it`s only slight knock a couple of degrees pulled should cure it.

    Don`t go mad with the boost and pull a lot of timing as your car will probably end up slower than with lower boost and more timing..
    Im not going mad with the boost honestly. I am roughly at 14.5-15 according to my Greddy MAP sensor. The reason I am asking is because I did have 2 runs last night with -38 correction where it got 16 counts of knock, as to which I instantly let off. I changed it back to -36 and it solved the issue, but I am noticing now that I look at the logs more that I am running .98-.97v with -36, and .94-.95v at -38, but I get knock.

    So I am assuming I am running very close to stoich, a little on the rich, and I still knock, maybe I need to pull 2-3 degrees of timing? And I have yet to touch the timing BTW, and by default, Greddy has -2 and -3 spread throughout the ignition map.

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    The 02`s voltage change with heat so you can`t really rely upon them for any real values to be honest.

    If you do back to back pulls you will heatsoak the intercoolers and the 2nd/ 3rd pull will be more knock prone on the same tune, adding fuel basically cools the comustion chambers down negating the loss of IC efficiency.

    You are no where near stoich (14.7:1 afr) oat 0.95v and you don`t want to be at high load, aim for 11.0:1 to be safe or where you have no knock if you haven`t bought a wideband yet (really should view a wideband as engine insurance!).

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    Quote Originally Posted by KeithMac View Post
    The 02`s voltage change with heat so you can`t really rely upon them for any real values to be honest.

    If you do back to back pulls you will heatsoak the intercoolers and the 2nd/ 3rd pull will be more knock prone on the same tune, adding fuel basically cools the comustion chambers down negating the loss of IC efficiency.

    You are no where near stoich (14.7:1 afr) oat 0.95v and you don`t want to be at high load, aim for 11.0:1 to be safe or where you have no knock if you haven`t bought a wideband yet (really should view a wideband as engine insurance!).
    I know I know. I keep kicking myself in the head that I didn't get one when I had the money. Trust me. I am just trying to get it a little bit better than flooding my engine like crazy all the time.

    Also, when I was doing those runs, I would do the pulls, and then coast to a stop to get air across the oil cooler and the intercoolers to cool them back down. Also, there was probably 5-10m dead time between each run because I was looking at all the logs. So I am pretty sure I didn't have a heat soak issue with the intercoolers.

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    ......what part of texas are you from? lol
    Last edited by Gray Haze; 10-23-2010 at 09:22 PM.
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