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Thread: Ball park $$ for rebuild?

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    Large Member Feedback Score 0 SilverBullet's Avatar
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    Ball park $$ for rebuild?

    I ran across a pretty good deal on '92 RT/TT with 90k on the car, but it's got a fresh set of heads. The only problem is it threw a rod so the bottom end needs to be re-done.

    It's got some decent mods already, nothing too crazy though.

    Rebuilt ECU
    Full IPS exhaust
    Dejon turbo intake pipes
    Newer tires
    New Southbend clutch/Fidanza Flywheel
    60k service with just done when the heads were done, and 3rd gen lifters installed

    Considering I could do the rebuild on the lower end myself, about what am I looking at for the cost of the rebuild? Nothing crazy really, just to get it running again.
    2010 Toyota Camry SE
    1998 Honda Accord EX
    --------------------------
    2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7L Hemi - Sold (Good riddance!)
    2007 Mazda CX-9 Grand Touring - Sold
    2001 Ford Explorer - AWD 5.0L V8 lifted w/ 32" BFG AT K/O's - Sold
    2004 Mazda6s - Sold
    1994 Stealth RT/TT Pearl Yellow - Sold
    1993 Stealth ES Twin Turbo - Sold
    1981 Audi 4000 4E "The Tank" - R.I.P.
    1984 Toyota Corolla Hatchback - Sold

  2. #2
    Rice Patrol verified Feedback Score 0 Mean Green's Avatar
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    Crankshaft: 250$ (I get them for 250$ and or it normally costs the everyday person 250$ to get one cut to spec)

    Rod Bearings: 28$ via napa (Sealed Power Bi-Metals)

    Main Bearings: 45$ via napa (Sealed Power Bi-Metals)

    Thrust Washers: 12$ via napa (Sealed Power)

    Oil Pump: 150$ via ebay (TopLine oil pumps are the only aftermarket oil pump I will use besides factory)

    Headgaskets: 80$ via autozone (Felpro MLS)

    Waterpump: 56$ via napa (Napa brand)

    Pistons: 150$ via ebay (NPR or Topline are my prefered w/o rings)

    Rings: 100$ via ebay or parts store ( I prefer Perfect Circle rings, these are Chromoly and are not to be broken in with Synthetic oils)

    Valve Stem Seals: 45$ via autozone (Felpro)

    Valve Guides: These have to be replaced at a machine shop and I advise getting it done as 6G72's tend to crack valve guides, this normally costs around 250$ at a machine shop.

    Freeze Plugs: 12$ via Summit (Sealed Power)

    Hot tank block: Normally runs 50$ at machine shop

    Hot tank all other parts including lifters and all oil tubing normally runs around 50$. remember to clean EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! including the turbo's, oil filter housing, oil cooler, oil cooler lines..etc..etc..pretty much, if it touches oil, CLEAN IT and when you think its clean, clean it again!.

    Ballpark of 1300$ if you do the assembly yourself. This is a spun rod bearing rebuild on a seasoned engine. I prefer Sealed Power products as they make some tough ass products. Top-Line engine parts make some very nice products also, all their stuff is lifetime warranty and really do exceed OE spec.
    Last edited by Mean Green; 10-03-2010 at 03:27 AM.

  3. #3
    Forum User verified Feedback Score 6 (100%) MADMarc's Avatar
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    When I rebuilt my motor I ended up just buying another rebuilt motor w/o a core charge for 1650, add in the price of gaskets and some little goodies here and there...approx 2k considering you do the work by yourself and will be reusing the 60k parts. How much is he looking for to let you take the car? I bought my 92 tt w/a spun bearing (uuuuugh) for 3000 w/a solid body, simple upgrades like what you're looking at and it needed the typical parts for such an old car and I still considered it a good deal.

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    Large Member Feedback Score 0 SilverBullet's Avatar
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    The guy wants $2750 or best offer. Cosmestically he says its in great shape inside and out, aside from the typical drivers seat bolster wearing. The only thing on the car that doesn't work is the ECS. I'm going to try and look at it this week.

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    Large Member Feedback Score 0 SilverBullet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mean Green View Post
    Crankshaft: 250$ (I get them for 250$ and or it normally costs the everyday person 250$ to get one cut to spec)

    Rod Bearings: 28$ via napa (Sealed Power Bi-Metals)

    Main Bearings: 45$ via napa (Sealed Power Bi-Metals)

    Thrust Washers: 12$ via napa (Sealed Power)

    Oil Pump: 150$ via ebay (TopLine oil pumps are the only aftermarket oil pump I will use besides factory)

    Headgaskets: 80$ via autozone (Felpro MLS)

    Waterpump: 56$ via napa (Napa brand)

    Pistons: 150$ via ebay (NPR or Topline are my prefered w/o rings)

    Rings: 100$ via ebay or parts store ( I prefer Perfect Circle rings, these are Chromoly and are not to be broken in with Synthetic oils)

    Valve Stem Seals: 45$ via autozone (Felpro)

    Valve Guides: These have to be replaced at a machine shop and I advise getting it done as 6G72's tend to crack valve guides, this normally costs around 250$ at a machine shop.

    Freeze Plugs: 12$ via Summit (Sealed Power)

    Hot tank block: Normally runs 50$ at machine shop

    Hot tank all other parts including lifters and all oil tubing normally runs around 50$. remember to clean EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! including the turbo's, oil filter housing, oil cooler, oil cooler lines..etc..etc..pretty much, if it touches oil, CLEAN IT and when you think its clean, clean it again!.

    Ballpark of 1300$ if you do the assembly yourself. This is a spun rod bearing rebuild on a seasoned engine. I prefer Sealed Power products as they make some tough ass products. Top-Line engine parts make some very nice products also, all their stuff is lifetime warranty and really do exceed OE spec.
    Considering the 60k service was just done, would I really need to replace the water pump? And since the heads were just completely rebuilt, would I really need to do the valve stem seals and valve guides? What is the likelihood that the crank is still in good usable shape?

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    Rice Patrol verified Feedback Score 0 Mean Green's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverBullet View Post
    Considering the 60k service was just done, would I really need to replace the water pump? And since the heads were just completely rebuilt, would I really need to do the valve stem seals and valve guides? What is the likelihood that the crank is still in good usable shape?
    If the 60 has been done and the heads revamped, then no, they don't need anything except disassembled and cleaned. Make sure YOU take out all the galley plugs, cams, rockers, caps and take them to the machine shop to be hot tanked. The VSS's will be fine through the hot tank process. Do not reuse the crank, it's not worth it. I will machine cranks that has more wear than normal but I will not reuse a spun bearing crank. The key with a spun bearing rebuild is cleaning everything...I cannot emphasize that enough.

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